Thread for Specialized Sirrus
#1626
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Bike update. The bike has now been tried on all three main routes that I like riding, including a long local rail trail with mostly gravel. The bike is perfect for it.
Interesting thing about the tires. Pathfinders 700X42 are actually a bit wider. I am measuring them at more like 700X45(46). They even appear visually beefier than 42mm.
I wanted to put slightly lighter WTB Resolutes that I have recently bought. Despite the review that says that Resolutes blow up beyond 42mm, I was not able to get them to that size. 38 is the most I am getting. I am starting to wonder if the tires I have have been mislabeled.
Any ideas why I can't get a 42 mm tire even close to it's size? I am using Continental Tour 28 tubes of the correct size.
Interesting thing about the tires. Pathfinders 700X42 are actually a bit wider. I am measuring them at more like 700X45(46). They even appear visually beefier than 42mm.
I wanted to put slightly lighter WTB Resolutes that I have recently bought. Despite the review that says that Resolutes blow up beyond 42mm, I was not able to get them to that size. 38 is the most I am getting. I am starting to wonder if the tires I have have been mislabeled.
Any ideas why I can't get a 42 mm tire even close to it's size? I am using Continental Tour 28 tubes of the correct size.
#1627
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I put 42mm parhfinder sports on my old bike last year and they measured almost exactly what my 45mm Kendas had previously. I really like those tires. Specialized made the decision that the future shock made 38s adequate. Sorry, but no, at least not on the rough trails where I ride. Thinking about trading my 38mm pathfinder pros for the 42mm pathfinder sports from my old bike until I am ready to go tubeless.
#1628
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Its interesting that you think your 5-10 husband needs a medium as I am 5-10 and my wifes medium 5.0 doesn't fit me as well as my large. It got me wondering if there is a difference in the carbon and aluminum frame geometry as most of the posts I have seen recomending sizing down come from people on 4.0s. I check the specs on both in a large and YES, there is a difference in specs on many of the dimensions. Some are subtle but some are significant, enought to change the way the bike feels. It could very well be that I (and perhaps your husband) would fit better in a 4.0 in a medium, while fitting better on a 5.0 in large. It is also interesting that the x 4.0 comes in sizes XXS-XL, while the x 5.0 comes in XS-XXL. The bottom line is not to assume that sizing advice on one transfers to the other, particularly if you are near the borderline of a size range.
- 5-9 with 32" inseam (actual, not pants)
- riding a medium x 5.0 that I bought a month ago
- seat post is currently at the 09 mark (~0.833 x 32" seam
I did have to ask the LBS for the manual and any bits/parts. I'll have to double check, but I think all I got was a generic manual and helper springs.
#1629
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Chiming in with my contribution to this epic thread... I picked up a Sirrus 4.0 back in May after my old bike was stolen out of my garage. As a mid-40s guy who is light and reasonably fit, but with a weak heart, I am done with going fast on drop bar road bikes. I rode for many years on a 2004 Ibex Corrida flat bar road bike and was looking for something similar for 80% paved trails, 10% gravel, 10% road. I opted for the non-X model as I prefer a stiff road feel and narrower tires and was worried that the future shock would result in a bouncy ride.
I'm yet another person who is 5-10 with a 32" cycling inseam, and the Large 4.0 was a perfect fit. Probably the best stock fit of any bike I've owned, actually. Only change is to swap the stock saddle for a Terry Fly Ti. I've done over 700 miles so far, including some 60 mile rides, and it's been great. This is my first carbon frame. The silver color is awesome, and compared to the aluminum and steel frames I've ridden before it's light, smooth, and quiet. The microshift shifters are really nice, and I've finally joined the 21st century with disc brakes.
Only one minor complaint, which is that I'm getting a clicking sound when going over bumps, like the lid of a jar where you press down and then it pops back. Could be the molded plastic headset cover, although I do have a bit of an oil spot that is collecting dust where the frame and fork meet that I'm keeping an eye on. Funnily enough, it seems to click less after I had my first tip-over crash (hard stop to avoid hitting a dog). Maybe it just needed to be broken in a bit.
I was going to include a photo, but apparently I have to post a few times before I can add images or links. Bummer.
I'm yet another person who is 5-10 with a 32" cycling inseam, and the Large 4.0 was a perfect fit. Probably the best stock fit of any bike I've owned, actually. Only change is to swap the stock saddle for a Terry Fly Ti. I've done over 700 miles so far, including some 60 mile rides, and it's been great. This is my first carbon frame. The silver color is awesome, and compared to the aluminum and steel frames I've ridden before it's light, smooth, and quiet. The microshift shifters are really nice, and I've finally joined the 21st century with disc brakes.
Only one minor complaint, which is that I'm getting a clicking sound when going over bumps, like the lid of a jar where you press down and then it pops back. Could be the molded plastic headset cover, although I do have a bit of an oil spot that is collecting dust where the frame and fork meet that I'm keeping an eye on. Funnily enough, it seems to click less after I had my first tip-over crash (hard stop to avoid hitting a dog). Maybe it just needed to be broken in a bit.
I was going to include a photo, but apparently I have to post a few times before I can add images or links. Bummer.
#1630
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Similar build...
I did have to ask the LBS for the manual and any bits/parts. I'll have to double check, but I think all I got was a generic manual and helper springs.
- 5-9 with 32" inseam (actual, not pants)
- riding a medium x 5.0 that I bought a month ago
- seat post is currently at the 09 mark (~0.833 x 32" seam
I did have to ask the LBS for the manual and any bits/parts. I'll have to double check, but I think all I got was a generic manual and helper springs.
#1631
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You should have gotten the tiny wrech for use on the headset tightening screws if you are ever planning to make headset adjustments beyond changing springs (such as changing stem height) as well as the spare headset spacers (they are proprietary size). Unlike mine you would not have gotten the valves for going tubless as your rims and tires are not tubless ready like the 5.0.
#1632
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Chiming in with my contribution to this epic thread... I picked up a Sirrus 4.0 back in May after my old bike was stolen out of my garage. As a mid-40s guy who is light and reasonably fit, but with a weak heart, I am done with going fast on drop bar road bikes. I rode for many years on a 2004 Ibex Corrida flat bar road bike and was looking for something similar for 80% paved trails, 10% gravel, 10% road. I opted for the non-X model as I prefer a stiff road feel and narrower tires and was worried that the future shock would result in a bouncy ride.
I'm yet another person who is 5-10 with a 32" cycling inseam, and the Large 4.0 was a perfect fit. Probably the best stock fit of any bike I've owned, actually. Only change is to swap the stock saddle for a Terry Fly Ti. I've done over 700 miles so far, including some 60 mile rides, and it's been great. This is my first carbon frame. The silver color is awesome, and compared to the aluminum and steel frames I've ridden before it's light, smooth, and quiet. The microshift shifters are really nice, and I've finally joined the 21st century with disc brakes.
Only one minor complaint, which is that I'm getting a clicking sound when going over bumps, like the lid of a jar where you press down and then it pops back. Could be the molded plastic headset cover, although I do have a bit of an oil spot that is collecting dust where the frame and fork meet that I'm keeping an eye on. Funnily enough, it seems to click less after I had my first tip-over crash (hard stop to avoid hitting a dog). Maybe it just needed to be broken in a bit.
I was going to include a photo, but apparently I have to post a few times before I can add images or links. Bummer.
I'm yet another person who is 5-10 with a 32" cycling inseam, and the Large 4.0 was a perfect fit. Probably the best stock fit of any bike I've owned, actually. Only change is to swap the stock saddle for a Terry Fly Ti. I've done over 700 miles so far, including some 60 mile rides, and it's been great. This is my first carbon frame. The silver color is awesome, and compared to the aluminum and steel frames I've ridden before it's light, smooth, and quiet. The microshift shifters are really nice, and I've finally joined the 21st century with disc brakes.
Only one minor complaint, which is that I'm getting a clicking sound when going over bumps, like the lid of a jar where you press down and then it pops back. Could be the molded plastic headset cover, although I do have a bit of an oil spot that is collecting dust where the frame and fork meet that I'm keeping an eye on. Funnily enough, it seems to click less after I had my first tip-over crash (hard stop to avoid hitting a dog). Maybe it just needed to be broken in a bit.
I was going to include a photo, but apparently I have to post a few times before I can add images or links. Bummer.
#1633
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Does anyone know if Specialized will be releasing more colors of the Sirrus X 5.0? I really like that Sage Green, but can't find it in 2021...only a gloss blue and gloss orange.
#1634
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Probably. Once they can get frames and components to actually make a bike. Stupid Covid.
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/what-d...bon-bikes.html
https://www.pinkbike.com/news/what-d...bon-bikes.html
#1635
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Who's gone tubeless on the stock x 5.0 rims? The claim is tubeless ready... they provide the correct valves and tires, but the rim strip inside doesn't appear to support tubeless. As in, tubeless rim tape needs to be applied to make it tubeless.
Correct?
Correct?
#1636
Member
I don't think you have tubeless valves, unless that was something given to you by the dealer. I looked up, you have regular tubes inside.
Usually when they say something is tubeless ready, they mean that rims can take tubeless set up. But you still need tubeless valves, sealant, and often tape (ppl replace the stock one).
Usually when they say something is tubeless ready, they mean that rims can take tubeless set up. But you still need tubeless valves, sealant, and often tape (ppl replace the stock one).
#1637
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I don't think you have tubeless valves, unless that was something given to you by the dealer. I looked up, you have regular tubes inside.
Usually when they say something is tubeless ready, they mean that rims can take tubeless set up. But you still need tubeless valves, sealant, and often tape (ppl replace the stock one).
Usually when they say something is tubeless ready, they mean that rims can take tubeless set up. But you still need tubeless valves, sealant, and often tape (ppl replace the stock one).
We equipped Sirrus X 5.0 with tubeless-ready tires that nearly eliminate flats and add more comfort and control by allowing for lower tire pressures....
Full tubeless ready Axis wheels with fast-rolling 38c Pathfinder tires
To me, it should only be pulling the tube, swapping in the valve and adding sealant. Its a bit misleading, but whatever. I've been told that's how other brands "roll" when they claim tubeless ready. What I'm finding is rim tape needs to be applied. So it really should be called a bike with tubeless ready tires and valves (maybe the correct ones)... rest it on you. More FYI for others.
#1638
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You should have gotten the tiny wrech for use on the headset tightening screws if you are ever planning to make headset adjustments beyond changing springs (such as changing stem height) as well as the spare headset spacers (they are proprietary size). Unlike mine you would not have gotten the valves for going tubless as your rims and tires are not tubless ready like the 5.0.
#1640
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Those are the ones. The shape may not be optimal, but they seem to work. What bothered me more was the lack of an o-ring to protect the outside rim as you need to crank it down to get it to seal. I'll probably replace them the next time I change tires.
#1641
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All of the parts that came with mine were either for conversion of the tires to tubeless (valve stems) or associated with the future shock (springs, special wrench, non-standard spacers, etc.). I would not expect a bike that did not have tubeless ready rims and tires (5.0 only on the Sirrus X line) or Future Shock (5.0 and 4.0) to come with extra parts, only paperwork.
#1642
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All of the parts that came with mine were either for conversion of the tires to tubeless (valve stems) or associated with the future shock (springs, special wrench, non-standard spacers, etc.). I would not expect a bike that did not have tubeless ready rims and tires (5.0 only on the Sirrus X line) or Future Shock (5.0 and 4.0) to come with extra parts, only paperwork.
I once bought a bike for my child. It came in a box and I had to put it together. There was quite a bit there and that was kid's 20-inch bike.
Our dealers will also not sell you a bike in a box.
#1643
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my understanding is that all bikes come with something, including paperwork. The dealers just choose not to provide you with anything, unless you specifically ask not to throw anything out (if you actually had a bike in the box and built for you after pre-order). Otherwise they keep nothing. I bought my bike from the showroom, so it came with nothing.
I once bought a bike for my child. It came in a box and I had to put it together. There was quite a bit there and that was kid's 20-inch bike.
Our dealers will also not sell you a bike in a box.
I once bought a bike for my child. It came in a box and I had to put it together. There was quite a bit there and that was kid's 20-inch bike.
Our dealers will also not sell you a bike in a box.
#1645
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Specialized has a large envelope that ahips with the bike and is supposed to contain your owers manual, other pices of somewhat useless paper and warnings, and sales paperwork. The LBS also usually takes the sales stickers and stickers from the box with the serial number information and stick those on the envelope as well. That is pretty standard. It is pretty lame to not give you any paperwork at all.
#1646
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The last couple of bike shops from whom I've bought new bikes had a folder in a file catalog system for each bike. When you bought a bike from the floor, they'd go to their folder system, pull out the folder for that bike, and all the stuff that came with the bike was there (owner's manual, any hex wrenches, etc.). They'd either just give me the whole folder or they'd give me the stuff in the folder and they'd peel off the ID label and use that folder for the next new bike they built. I think that's a great way to build customer confidence in the shop (attention to detail, organization, etc.).
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#1650
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Note that they reserve the right to make substitutions, and in the last year made several. THe two that I recieved a month ago, however, had all of the speced components.