mrv 

Wrenched. Applied penetrating oil. More wrenching. More oil. Time. Oil. Wrenching. HEAT! More wrenching with a vice. Clamped the spline tool in place. Hammer & wrench!!

sheesh….



BB Extreme Removal Competition

Origin8 Fix8 made in China….

SurferRosa

.


Putting together a new stem, bar, and brakeset for my '91 Bottecchia. It's funny how pure chance plays a part in my cobbling things together, like finding this unblemished stem on craigs today.

Found the levers on craigslist too.

VintageSteelEU

That's actually not a bad idea. I have a dislike for splined splined cups, it's way too easy to strip them, especially alloy ones. Might borrow this method next time

mrv 

I was going nuts with the spline tool in the vice - the frame kept camming out of the tool. - because the BB shell was fouled up.
then I remembered something about using a QR skewer to clamp tools in place and got my headset-bodger tool out.

held things in place so I cold whack with the hammer. I had to keep loosening the clamp as the shell rotated.

felt kinda good to get it done after sitting at my desk all day….

merziac

I almost always contain the BB tool, wrench, etc before leaning in and am always prepared to deploy the 3-4 ft breaker bar, swinging a hammer near a frame gives me heart palpitations.

The initial engagement is usually the best it will be so can be crucial to success.

Bergz

Finally got some self adhesive "WOODRUP" labels made at a print shop and affixed them to the Woodrup today.
They are the latest typeface and I think suit the bike well as it's 1986.

Desert Ryder

Replaced a broken spoke and trued the rear rim on the Fisher Montare. Swapped the seat and handlebars. I took off the bar ends also.

2cam16

Finished. Hopefully I can find time this week for it's maiden voyage.
IMG_4261 by 2cam16, on Flickr
Moved the original Wolbers that came with that Sirrus to the Bottecchia.
IMG_4263 by 2cam16, on Flickr

brewerkz 

Picked this up for $120 thinking it was a Panasonic built frame. Found out it’s a Waterford build - both decals and serial number.

it had 9 speed dura ace/Ultegra mix with a 6 speed freewheel in the rear.

Rebuilding it with Dura Ace 7400 group. Except the BL-7402 levers are expensive, may use 105.

as bought



On rebuild

merziac

H**Y CRAP!!!

You lucky bastid.

thumpism 

Don't get to ride my own bikes and don't work on many but I'm helping out the neighbors by tuning up their Trek hybrids by using old parts I have lying around; a decent tire and tube off a wheel I'd scavenged from the co-op's junk pile for one bike...


...and a kickstand for the other.


Dug out an old ESGE, freeing up not much space in the garage.


Ver-r-r-ry slightly wider top required grinding to make it narrow enough to fit but the length was perfect.


I just know you guys aren't interested in kickstand tech but you do what the job requires. I want to help these folks out 'cause she knows how to bake cookies and he's helpful and energetic, and fixing up their bikes for free helps keep everybody happy.

noglider 

Here is my renovated 1974 Raleigh International. I painted the frame with a brush in 2013 and 2014, and I built the bike up for the first time in 2015. It has undergone many changes. For about eight years, I had Nitto Mustache handlebars on it, which made the bike look cool, but I had to face the fact that they don’t work for me.

New tires, chain, new old rack, new stem, new old stem adapter, and new handlebar. I replaced the stem several times in three weeks, and now I have a stem adapter and new modern stem. I cleaned everything. Reinstalled dynamo headlight and taillight that had been off for a couple of years.

Boy these Continental GP 5000 tires in 32 mm are amazing. The tires I had were brutally harsh, and combined with the handlebar I had which put me in an uncomfortable position, I wondered if I could make this bike truly comfortable. Now I have hope. My local bike shop owner thinks I’ll like riding these tires tubeless, and for the first time, I’m considering trying that. No decision yet.

Plans for the near future:
- Further adjust the angle of the handlebar and the mounting points for the levers
- Reapply handlebar tape
- Adjust the rack to be level
- Probably use a different dynamo taillight
- Add a mud flap to the front fender
- Build a new rear wheel, since this one is borrowed from another bike of mine





That’s a 1947 NYC Subway map. My uncle stole it from the wall of a station around that year. I still love it.

zookster 

The bar tape on my recently acquired Miele AzSora was faded, loose and the end caps were missing, so I was going to replace it this evening. When I removed the old red tape I found a near perfect tape underneath, and that the bars had insets for where the tape stops. I think the tape underneath is shellacked? I only returned to riding last year after many years of not riding. Back then the bar tape on my bikes was the translucent vinyl variety. Not had a bike previously with shellacked tape. I put in new end plugs and left it as is for now.

SurferRosa

Found a couple sets of the same model Suntour down tube shifters at the lbs. One set had four thin metal washers, which I used. And the other set was missing a wing nut in the bolt. The best bits went on the new Falcon.





These two sets were $10/ea. Looking back, I wish I had just bought some Silver Shifters from Rivendell. I haven't tried them yet, and I think they would look really good with the Triomphe stuff I'll put on this bike.

VintageSteelEU

You mean the ones that are a copy of Suntour Sprint from the mid-80's? The ratcheting ones? DiaCompe makes them in downtube and bar end versions. They cost usually between 40 and 50 quid in the UK. I was lucky to get the Sprint ones (whatever the part number is) NOS for the same price, but I will probably get the DiaCompe shifters as well at some point just in case. They also make bolts which are probably compatible (would have to check, have a set somewhere) or can be used to get the bit you're missing (though there are probably cheaper donors out there). There is also a more chunky version of the shifters, resembling Suntour Power Shifters, but the ratcheting mechanism seems to be of the later Suntour Sprint variety.

mrv 

i recently acquired a free Miele trail bike that needs .... work.... if you think you're interested in a matching trail bike - please - PLEASE - let me know. .... not quite sure how to connect you with this bike here in Michigan though.....



help me!! heeelllppp me!

Mr. 66

BSO no longer, the Rockhopper, or is it Rock Hopper?! The rear hub has been changed to accommodate 8 speed xt shifter pods. Currently sporting its original derailleurs. Rolling on rugged Farmer John tires. A temporary funky web saddle
pantoand gripping with Grab On

SurferRosa

Yes, they're ratcheting and $37:

https://www.rivbike.com/products/z4449999jz-lsdkj

Not sure what they charge for shipping.

JohnDThompson 

Wheels for my buddy's 1935 Elgin "Bluebird." Original hubs, rims, and spokes, disassembled, rechromed, now being reassembled. Front is done, rear needs to be tensioned and trued. Couldn't separate the sprocket from the driver, so I'm lacing it up without the innards, and will reinstall them to do the tensioning and truing.

SurferRosa

My bad. That's the price for one shifter. I don't know why they sell them individually. I guess for the 1x contingent.

jdawginsc 

That thing is cool!

Aardwolf

Usually a good idea to calibrate your tension meter
But sometimes not.

I was reusing some butted 2.0/1.8 stainless spokes I got for free when I bought a Nuovo Tipo large flange front hub.
Forgot I used straight 2.0 SS spokes last time and tightened to about 120kgf while aiming for 90kgf, one of the spokes broke at the J bend.

Hmm, looks like those are not the spokes I'm looking for.

Got some new Sapim 2.0/1.8.
Calibrated my tension meter with one of the new spokes and a crane gauge.
Wheel is building a lot better and I know the spokes are not going to fail, so a good thing.

zookster 

Sent you a PM.

VintageSteelEU

There's probably tax on top of that, before the shipping cost In the photo you can see the mounting bolts and these can be bought separately. If they are just as good as Suntour ones (and there's no reason for them not to be), I think they are worth having. Well, I like the Suntour ones, they give you a bit of a haptic feedback whilst still being smooth to use.

non-fixie 

During last weekend's Eroica Germania I suddenly found myself not being able to shift to the big ring anymore on my Jacques Anquetil. I tightened the FD clamp a bit and got it working again, long enough to finish the ride.

Had a closer look today and sure enough the Delrin had succumbed to the tension. Luckily I have a few spares, so the I replaced the FD and the old girl is ready for her next challenge.