cthenn

I don't understand this argument about modulation. I have bikes with disk brakes, rim brakes, and direct mount brakes (and one with only a front brake). Each of them brakes differently than the other, but I've been riding each of them long enough to know how much to grab when I need to brake, or control my speed. On the direct mount bike, you can grab a lot of brake very quickly, but guess what, I've figured out how to modulate the braking. It's just like learning to drive a new car, or a different car. Some cars, you have to really press the accelerator to get it to go, others you barely touch and you feel like you are taking off in a rocket. At first, it's awkward and doesn't feel right, but you quickly learn how to control things. So, I can modulate my brakes just fine, it's all about control and muscle memory. In fact, on my disk bike I really have to grab a lot to slow down quickly, whereas on the direct mount bike, it's a very fine touch, but for each of these, I'm not thinking about it, it's just something I know to do.

bmthom.gis

I don't care for discs. Aesthetically I find they are ugly, and the larger brifters being used to accommodate the new system are fugly. They are more expensive. Disc compatible hubs are more expensive and not as widely available. From an amature mechanics standpoint - I find they are a PITA. By the time they are on the shops floor, they have been adjusted - but the person assembling your bike now has to mess with the alignment and truing the rotors. You have to bleed the lines every so often. The only job I take my road bike to the shop for is bottom bracket service - bc I don't have a press.

Discs are better when the wheels are attached with thru axles, but not everyone is using them.
One of the upsides is rims won't need to be replaced because of brake wear - only the rotors, which is a lot easier than lacing new rims up.
As for clearance for wider tires - it's all in the frame design.

bmthom.gis

+1 - I thought maybe I was the only one who thought that modulating rim brakes based off of user experience and muscle memory was some advanced exercise that is impossible to accomplish.

Bandera

As a bonus the battery is dead in the 'lectric shifting and the dog has explosive diarrhea from licking up the mineral oil on the floor.

-Bandera

BlazingPedals

I've been a disc brake user for almost 15 years because I do several tours per year and it's not uncommon for me to have downhills in the rain. And I've been in the position of not being able to control my speed with rim brakes. So while I believe that many of you don't need them, I really don't like it when someone says they're an answer to a problem that doesn't exist. A problem that some of you don't have, perhaps; but not one that doesn't exist.

Chandne

I mainly got them for mountain descents and the occasional rain shower you can get caught in here. Well, also the occasional slushy snowy sections on shoulder seasons. After a few rides, they take less effort to stop when going downhill and I can brake later. Mainly though, I got them for when I ride at 8,000-12,000 feet and I like them enough to where I will stick with discs from now on. I still have my rim brake Roubaix and the new pads (I think Kool Stop...the dark green ones) do stop better than Dura Ace pads.

rmfnla

dwing

And a Schwinn coaster brake modulates just fine too... no need for a masters degree to understand that.

CliffordK

I know I'm a bit behind the times, but I just installed a pair of Shimano 6800 callipers (stock, new pads) with Campy SR11 levers

I will say that I was immediately surprised at how grippy the brakes were. I had always been happy with my old side-pull brakes, but these new ones really grab.

I did a hill ride last weekend. The guy behind me complained about almost missing a couple of right angle turns at the bottom of steep hills. I assume he had basic center pivot side-pull bakes. Good brakes help!!!

So, back to the discussion. I don't know if the discs are better or worse than modern caliper brakes, but good positive braking is very nice.

Canker

There is no problem with hanging a hydraulic disc brake bike upside down and they don't just spring leaks left and right. It is actually better for your mtn bike to be stored upside down because it lubricates the seals in the forks.

Bandera

No doubt:

TheLibrarian

I'm sure others have said your braking power on a bicycle is not dependent on strong brakes. You can lock up and slide with the simplest and oldest of v-brakes. It may help if they have any type of auto-modulation like abs but you can just feather your brakes or learn how to brake properly. people do say they may help in rain or wet weather.

popeye

Show me anyone who can slide their front wheel on pavement and the limit in braking is when the rear tire is just of the ground.

jsigone

haha that is very opposite of what you just typed. 6ft at 15mph, That is about the width of a car...... Once you lock up the tire, you lose the ability to brake any faster, you are just skidding rubber not stopping.

What about 40mph downhill decent?

StanSeven

I stopped without locking wheels. In most instances the differences with either zero or 2-3 feet. The one six foot difference was with wet wheels after riding through a big long puddle where a lawn sprinkler system was bring turned on.

bruce19

My experience is that disc brakes are more progressive.

joejack951

Busy day yesterday. If 'town' includes the multilane suburban arterial with a 45mph speed limit that I frequent, then yes, I do. Time things right to keep momentum and throw in a little tailwind and I've hit 45mph heading towards one of the intersections. Stopping at a red light from those speeds is a lot less eventful on my disc brake bike even in bad weather. There are several nearby quite steep (10%+) downhills with stop signs at the bottom, too. I am way more comfortable carrying speed down those hills and confidently stopping at the bottom when using my disc brake bike (front only). For example: https://www.strava.com/segments/1599784