Opinion on Dodgy Head Tube Cut
#52
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decided to dig a bit deeper into this type of frame... it seems they have some history surrounding the thin head tubes and Cracks..... and one of the best in frame repairs passed on doing a repair.....
https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...-repair.25047/
https://www.roadbikereview.com/threa...-repair.25047/
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here.. buy this... it's a bargain.
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...588233891.html
https://seattle.craigslist.org/see/b...588233891.html
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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It looks to me like the front of the head tube has been hogged out some.
I like the idea above about milling the tube down to the bottom of the crack which should help clean up the seat for the headset.
A couple of years ago the Colnago Dream frames were significantly less than either the steel or carbon fiber frames. Whew, prices seem to have bounced up quite a bit.
Before you purchase, look at Colnago forks. I can't tell if it is 1" or 1 1/8".
Colnago frequently used black (carbon) or silver (chrome steel) forks on their frames.
That may be a Colnago Flash fork (black carbon fork + steel steer tube, I think), but verify steer tube size.
If I was purchasing the frame, I'd give myself an allowance of $200 for the missing fork.
So, you get:
$495 + $60 shipping + $200 fork = $755. Plus the cost of repairs. So, consider you're into it about $800 or so.
I like the idea above about milling the tube down to the bottom of the crack which should help clean up the seat for the headset.
A couple of years ago the Colnago Dream frames were significantly less than either the steel or carbon fiber frames. Whew, prices seem to have bounced up quite a bit.
Before you purchase, look at Colnago forks. I can't tell if it is 1" or 1 1/8".
Colnago frequently used black (carbon) or silver (chrome steel) forks on their frames.
That may be a Colnago Flash fork (black carbon fork + steel steer tube, I think), but verify steer tube size.
If I was purchasing the frame, I'd give myself an allowance of $200 for the missing fork.
So, you get:
$495 + $60 shipping + $200 fork = $755. Plus the cost of repairs. So, consider you're into it about $800 or so.
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It looks to me like the front of the head tube has been hogged out some.
I like the idea above about milling the tube down to the bottom of the crack which should help clean up the seat for the headset.
A couple of years ago the Colnago Dream frames were significantly less than either the steel or carbon fiber frames. Whew, prices seem to have bounced up quite a bit.
Before you purchase, look at Colnago forks. I can't tell if it is 1" or 1 1/8".
Colnago frequently used black (carbon) or silver (chrome steel) forks on their frames.
That may be a Colnago Flash fork (black carbon fork + steel steer tube, I think), but verify steer tube size.
If I was purchasing the frame, I'd give myself an allowance of $200 for the missing fork.
So, you get:
$495 + $60 shipping + $200 fork = $755. Plus the cost of repairs. So, consider you're into it about $800 or so.
I like the idea above about milling the tube down to the bottom of the crack which should help clean up the seat for the headset.
A couple of years ago the Colnago Dream frames were significantly less than either the steel or carbon fiber frames. Whew, prices seem to have bounced up quite a bit.
Before you purchase, look at Colnago forks. I can't tell if it is 1" or 1 1/8".
Colnago frequently used black (carbon) or silver (chrome steel) forks on their frames.
That may be a Colnago Flash fork (black carbon fork + steel steer tube, I think), but verify steer tube size.
If I was purchasing the frame, I'd give myself an allowance of $200 for the missing fork.
So, you get:
$495 + $60 shipping + $200 fork = $755. Plus the cost of repairs. So, consider you're into it about $800 or so.
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Obviously, the cut was ACROSS the top of the head tube. And doesn't go deep enough to cut through a race. If one was cutting out a race (highly unlikely, unless you're an incompetent home mechanic who saws stuff out of your bike), you would cut the race vertically, to relieve the entire length of the race.
I think what you're missing is that the top race would have to be cut where it sits on top of the head tube and down inside. Done properly you'd have to cut level and straight down and you wouldn't have much of mark on either surface, but clearly someone wasn't paying attention, probably as they transitioned between the two. I would bet that what we can't see is that the cut is slightly lower inside the tube than out.
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Under normal circumstances, angled cuts, accross a tube (like this one)would be HIGHER on the inside so the sloping blade clears the opposite side.
The only ways for it to be lower on the inside would be if one used a keyhole saw and limited himself to 1" strokes, OR ran a hack saw blade through the tube and cut front the inside out. In that case, there would be a long shallow angle cut extending down the ID for a half inch or so.
Too bad we weren't betting, I would have enjoyed the beer.
(Didn't BF used to have a beers emoji?)
Last edited by FBinNY; 03-09-23 at 10:30 PM.
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I'd take that bet.
Under normal circumstances, angled cuts, accross a tube (like this one)would be HIGHER on the inside so the sloping blade clears the opposite side.
The only way for.it to be lower on the inside would be if one used a keyhole saw and limited himself to 1" strokes.
Too bad we weren't betting, I would have enjoyed the beer.
(Didn't BF used to have a beers emoji?)
Under normal circumstances, angled cuts, accross a tube (like this one)would be HIGHER on the inside so the sloping blade clears the opposite side.
The only way for.it to be lower on the inside would be if one used a keyhole saw and limited himself to 1" strokes.
Too bad we weren't betting, I would have enjoyed the beer.
(Didn't BF used to have a beers emoji?)
Or has ever used a Dremel 1" disc cutter? Or a Sawzall?
I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
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So, either a shallow.down angle with short strokes, or a long angle.
As I said, I would have taken the bet.
Last edited by FBinNY; 03-10-23 at 02:18 PM.
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If I had to hit steep hills regularly, it would be on the lightest bike I could find.
I've commuted over a pretty decent hill in the past. It wasn't that long of a ride, but 1/4 mile into the ride, straight up a hill. And done on the old Colnago road bike.
I've commuted over a pretty decent hill in the past. It wasn't that long of a ride, but 1/4 mile into the ride, straight up a hill. And done on the old Colnago road bike.
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Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
Life is too short not to ride the best bike you have, as much as you can
(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
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Even the cut’s location doesn’t support your “theory.” Who would cut out the headset from directly in front of the top tube? You don’t think that position would be just a little awkward and difficult to do?
I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
I have the most bizarre conversations with so-called mechanics on this forum. Mind numbing.
In any case, it is much easier to cut toward the frame because you can stabilize the frame with your off hand or knees, which you can't do if you stand in front of the headtube.
Have you used tools like this much? Have you ever had to cut something out of bike using a workstand? Ever worked as a mechanic? Ever used a Sawzall? Dremel? Ever cut out a seat post? Do any piping or metal fabrication?
Yeah, I didn't think so.