zizou

Thanks for all the tips, didnt expect to start off such a debate

Judging by the previous sprint night there were about 30 riders entered which made for 10 steps on the ladder and if i can match my best 200 time of 13.58 then that would have seeded me middle of the field that night (i know looking at past events is not an accurate guide to current ones but its all i have to go on). From there I would only need to move up 2 steps - which i think is an achievable goal - to then come up against sprinters. So im not being thrown into the lions den straight away ive got to earn the right first. Obviously once there i dont want to just be chewed up and spat out i want to at least put up a good fight

Soil_Sampler

Brass is easier to drill, or ream.
Easier on the inside of the barrel.
And quieter if it does rub the barrel than steel.

bigfred 

I think we've ascertained that Babypuke is not a machinist and will simply purchase a new pump, rather than invest time if fixing the old Silca.

We all have our own thresholds with regard to how much time and bother we'll invest in fixing things. I suspect I'm willing to throw more time and effort at these things than some, who find it easily and more cost/time effective to simply buy a replacement.

Soil_Sampler

If you did, you could build these.


https://home.comcast.net/~carlfogel/d...SYINST_BW_.pdf
https://home.comcast.net/~carlfogel/download/PMP_004.jpg

slindell

In a 3 up you get 2 chances so it is possible with use of the banking to get in the draft enough to hold on for at least a while. It is also the good learning process because there is no making it back on like you might be able to do if closer matched. And if the 2 faster riders are going for gradual wind up then it is straight motor pacing until the legs fall off.
My general rules of getting beat by faster riders:
half a second - can usually hang on and start to come around at the end and every now and then win if they fade.
1 second - can draft if you survive the jump but will not be able to gain once in the wind
2 seconds - might hang on the jump if you predict it just right but will probably not be able to hold the wheel, but can be fun while it lasts.

slindell

Have you tried contacting Silca - the brand was recently moved to the US and has a fair number of replacement parts
https://silca.cc/collections/all
As for replacements either a new Silca or Lyzene. The screw on nozzle on the Lyzene works well - just make sure your cores are tight before inflating.

bigfred 

Interesting. Two stage compressors. I like.

GhostSS

Are most serious track racers die hard square taper crank users only? Is there any reason not to use splined/proprietary cranks/bb?

Also why do trackies in the World UCI Championships and Olympics use both clipless and straps combined? I mean, I know they have huge legs....

queerpunk

1. No, plenty of people use Octalink (Dura Ace) or GXP (SRAM Omnium) cranks.

2. That's a sprinter thing. Extra security for monster power. Straps do a couple things - they pulling out (unlikely but could happen); they prevent twisting that could lead to pulling out; and by strapping the foot to the pedal they eliminate stretch/flex of the shoe's upper.

Brian Ratliff

Once you feel the security of straps, it's hard to go back. Between that and the fixed drivetrain, you really get the feeling the bike is an extension of your body, not just something you sit on.

Baby Puke

Slindell, thanks for this, I had not seen this site. Just ordered everything internal and will see how it goes.

carleton

I think you may be looking at Japanese NJS and seeing square taper being dominant in those circles. But, that's not the case outside of the NJS world.

There are 5 popular crank models on the track scene (not counting budget cranks that come on some complete bikes):

- Dura Ace (Octalink)
- Sugino 75 (square taper)
- SRAM Omnium (external BB)
- Campy (square taper)
- SRM (Octalink)

Dura Ace, Sugino 75, and SRAM Omnium being the top 3. Campy is a distant 4th and SRM (power meter) a much further 5th.

Fiveflat

Regarding pedals above... my current budget bike only has bmx style pedals. I want to get a feel for the track and I'm headed to Hellyer this Saturday for the beginner instruction training. I have older clipless on my mountain bike, should I put those on for the track or any other suggestions?

queerpunk

Yes, definitely put your clipless pedals on.
I'm guessing if you have BMX pedals on your bike, you probably ride it on the street and have a street gearing. If you've got the stuff to do it, put on a larger gear for riding on the track. Something like 48x16 would be a good place to start (it's a track warmup gear - race gears are a bit bigger than that).

Have fun. ride safe. learn a lot.

Fiveflat

Thanks! I did buy a new cog to gear it up. I'll be at 46/14

noglider 

Ah, thank you! I will watch for elongation. I do know the dangers of elongation. So now I know my chain is safe and will perform OK on the track but I may need to throw it away soon. At that point, I'll get something better so it won't need quick replacement.

Brian Ratliff

Either that or get some straps. You really need to be attached to your pedals if you are riding the track.

noglider 

Ooh, I like the idea of clipless plus straps. My SPD shoes are a little loose, so pulling up leaves some slop.

Brian Ratliff

46/14 is a great gear. A little big to warm up on, but not too bad, and a great race gear.

Quinn8it

I'm all for straps for the big boys- seen enough pulls to know it's a needed safety modification on top of the other benefits- but it's really just for sprinters, who have big Watt capacity and tend to get a bit sloppy and aggressive on their stroke when they try to lay it down-

i cant get behind recommending this to anyone who is not fairly experienced on the track already. I've seen a bunch of guys eat sheet in the infield when they can't get out- and it's painful to watch a guy roll around trying to get into his straps- a thing that will take someone with more experience a second to do..

I would seriously advise against showing up at your first day on the track trying to learn everything and also trying to execute a pretty advanced and unneeded technique..

noglider 

(chuckle) I can just imagine the embarrassing clumsy mistakes!

carleton

There is a minimum level of equipment that is required to participate in this sport. This requirement is rooted in safety.

I personally would not recommend that you use MTB pedals as I have found (and witnessed) them to be very easy to pull out of even by smaller riders. Many don't have tension settings and when the cleat wears over time, it gets worse.

Get proper quality road pedals before you go to the track for your safety and the safety of others around you.

Shimano R540 pedals are around $40 or less. Road shoes can be found for about $80. That's not to mention what might be found on the used market.

Not the Slowest

Silly Question>>>>But's I must ask.

Time to change the handlebar tape that came with my Track bike.
No issue with the grip or feel it's just that it arrived WHITE and now is well not so white.

Any particular type to get or just my favorite road tape and cut shorter.
Any type to avoid?

Sadly I do like the cushy feel of the one that came with the bike, but maybe a gel based tape would do.

Thoughts?

Thanks Robert

Fiveflat

And this is precisely why I asked. I've never ridden road pedals (how different are they from MTB pedals?)
Maybe I'll see if my LBS has some inexpensive ones (here I go putting more money into this budget bike that I didn't want to do).

Brian Ratliff

Actually, I was just suggesting some straps to attach to his BMX pedals. Just something to minimally keep his feet from flying off the pedals. Like Holdfasts or something. Kinda depends on the state of his mountain bike pedals. There are some MTB pedals I would really not recommend (eggbeaters anyone?).

But I've done both the turtle roll and the cant-get-into-pedals dance with my straps... not fun to do, not fun to watch.

Best thing to do is find some cheap road pedal and shoe. If he buys quality, both will be a lasting investment that'll outlast his bike. Shimano road shoes and SPD-SL pedals are pretty good and can be had for relatively cheap.