One way or another, this crank is toast
#1
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One way or another, this crank is toast
I thought you might want to see this.
I am rebuilding my Trek 660 and upgrading the drive train, including a new crank. In the process of stripping it down, I broke two cheap BB tools and stripped the crank threads. Then to the LBS where they disassembled the BB and attempted to free the crank from the axle using a very big hammer. Still it did not budge. Fortunately, I have a square taper BB cartridge for the rebuild.
Now, no sympathy necessary. My view is that gear is meant to be used and, in the process, some gear gets trashed. And, I really like the Dura Ace replacement a lot better.
I am rebuilding my Trek 660 and upgrading the drive train, including a new crank. In the process of stripping it down, I broke two cheap BB tools and stripped the crank threads. Then to the LBS where they disassembled the BB and attempted to free the crank from the axle using a very big hammer. Still it did not budge. Fortunately, I have a square taper BB cartridge for the rebuild.
Now, no sympathy necessary. My view is that gear is meant to be used and, in the process, some gear gets trashed. And, I really like the Dura Ace replacement a lot better.
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Just curious, what kind of crank is that you're "playing taps" on??
I hope it ain't one of those unobtainium ones...
Good luck with the replacement and maybe you should consider using some anti-seize compound on the tapers next time. I never had a crank sieze on me like that despite some instances when I think I had cranked them down too tight on the spindle. Do you ride in the rain a lot and could it be corrosion holding it on?
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I hope it ain't one of those unobtainium ones...
Good luck with the replacement and maybe you should consider using some anti-seize compound on the tapers next time. I never had a crank sieze on me like that despite some instances when I think I had cranked them down too tight on the spindle. Do you ride in the rain a lot and could it be corrosion holding it on?
Chombi
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85(?) Vitus Plus Carbone 7
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It's a Shimano 600. Fortunately, there are a few of those around.
Anti seize compound -- absolutely. I really am surprised. I serviced the BB a few years ago and live in a dry area.
Washer -- good point. But I caught that with the bolt.
Anti seize compound -- absolutely. I really am surprised. I serviced the BB a few years ago and live in a dry area.
Washer -- good point. But I caught that with the bolt.
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Did you try the "ride around with no bolt" trick to loosen it ?
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#12
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#13
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Deja vu. I had a similar situation with the spindle and cranks from an 80s Panasonic DX3000 I'd picked up used; the crank wouldn't come off of the spindle, crank threads, stripped, etc. I took it a machinist friend I'd met through church (Mickey85's father, incidentally) and explained the situation. He took it into the back room and used some sort of precision machinery that made a loud tapping/knocking sound, and a few moments later, he gave me back the spindle and cup back unharmed. He gave me the same suggestion about using anti-seize; lesson learned in full.
#14
I wasn't trying to be cruel with the comment about the washer. It is the most common cause of this situation. A moment of distraction and even an experienced mechanic could make this mistake. I've pulled a lot of cranks off very neglected bikes and I have only had one time I can remember where the crank was so frozen to the spindle that it stripped.
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Noah,
When I got my Zieleman the Washer was buried beneath a lot of crud and old grease so I didn't even see it when
I threaded in the crank puller. Ugly result to be sure.
Marty
When I got my Zieleman the Washer was buried beneath a lot of crud and old grease so I didn't even see it when
I threaded in the crank puller. Ugly result to be sure.
Marty
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three legged gear puller might work better in this situation. We used to have a gear puller at the shop I worked at, sometimes there is no choice. Hammer is a very bad tool for this job, but I'm impressed they managed to get the cup out with the crank arm still on.
#18
Death fork? Naaaah!!
It can sometimes be hard to match up three flat spots on a 5-arm spider.
I have both a three-arm and a 2-arm gear puller and have used both on cranks with stripped or funny (read French) threads.
Top
I have both a three-arm and a 2-arm gear puller and have used both on cranks with stripped or funny (read French) threads.
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You might also heat up the drive area with a heat gun before trying to pull with a gear puller. Aluminum expands faster than steel and the heat should also tend to loosen the joint. I have never ran into this problem but this is how I would handle it. Best of luck
#20
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Actually, a three arm puller works very well, if you put a long zip tie around the arms and draw it down tight. That keeps the arms in place while you're screwing out the puller and creating the tension. It also (almost totally) keeps the puller from slipping off the arm if you're working with something more aero than a Stronglight 93.
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I just put some padding over an open vise then take another spindle or thread a bold into the hole and give it a big hit with a rather large hammer. Downside is if you miss you hit the crank and leave a nice dent lol
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Seconded on using heat. I was try to remove a super frozen BB cup from a steel frame the other day... A 48" pipe wrench couldn't do the job... I took it into the kitchen and held the frame over the propane stove for about two minutes... I was able to remove the cup on the first try with a pair of Channel Locks.
If you still have the crank, send it to me, I like challenges.
If you still have the crank, send it to me, I like challenges.