Is a carbon road bike overkill for commuting(vs aluminum)?
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Is a carbon road bike overkill for commuting(vs aluminum)?
I'm looking at getting a new road bike for a 11 mile commute each way and can't decide on whether to get a carbon or aluminum Trek domane 5. I'm looking to put panniers on the back to carry my laptop bag(for the sl i'd get a rack from trek that connects to the axle), about 10 pounds. I'm about 300lbs and the isospeed on the rear seams nice. I've only ridden similar bikes(cause everything is out of stock). Do you think the carbon will be worth it? I do have a secure place to leave it
Last edited by zlsanders; 07-24-20 at 10:33 PM.
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The problem with that bike specifically is that the couplings are designed to flex under a person half to 2/3 your size and you are likely to bottom them out and not get much benefit. It’s often hard to find a weight rating for bikes but when you do it’s often 275 for racing bikes.
I would think a bike shop would try to steer you to a touring bike or hybrid, something easier to sit on and built with capacity in mind, but still mindful of the need for speed on a 22mi RT.
added on edit:
I would think a bike shop would try to steer you to a touring bike or hybrid, something easier to sit on and built with capacity in mind, but still mindful of the need for speed on a 22mi RT.
added on edit:
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wooo you a big boy lol you are going to need a bike and wheel set for your weight , you might want to look at something more rugges like a specilized diverge , or a trek check point , and go aluminum , its just going to be better over time than a carbon frame !
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zlsanders Regardless of weight, commuting can be tough on a bike. Rough roads, potholes, curbs, etc. Bicycle frames will be stressed in directions they weren't designed for especially with racks and panniers. And wheels and spokes will have to be up to the task. And when you add your personal weight and the weight of your laptop, gear and possibly street clothes, etc, you are looking at stresses that the frame or wheels or hubs can't handle and while carbon may be better at handling repeated flex than aluminum...nothing holds up on the long run like steel.
I know you said pickings are slim, but if it were me, and based on the cost of the bikes you mentioned, you would pay the same or less for a steel-frame touring-style bike like a Salsa Marrakesh or Surly Long Haul Trucker or similar. The brand doesn't matter, but rugged wheels and a steel frame do.
For one thing, a touring-style bike has longer chain-stays, which puts the rear wheel back further, so you will have fewer (or no) heel strikes against the panniers.
For another, you want a frame that can fit wider tires. Wider tires equal more cushion which will be easier on you and your laptop and gear, when you hit potholes, etc. In fact, I believe the Surly LHT can be ordered with 26" wheels which allows for even wider tires. And wider tires do not necessarily mean slower speeds, as long as you get smooth tires.
I may not have answered you question, but that's my two cents.
I can't tell from your post if you are just starting to commute or not, or if you have been riding for a while, so please excuse me if I came off as condescending, but my main commuter since 2015 has been a semi-touring steel frame Charge Plug, and I couldn't be happier, (except for the flimsy rear hub which failed after three years). And my former commuter for 18 years prior was a 1997 Nishiki Blazer Mountain bike which is now my snow bike, but it still gets ridden in the warmer months with fat 26x1.85 slicks and it is fast and fun!
I had commuted for 17 years before I found this forum 11 years ago, and the difference it has made towards better, safer, more enjoyable commuting has been life-changing!
Good luck with whatever you choose, let us know how it all works out!
I know you said pickings are slim, but if it were me, and based on the cost of the bikes you mentioned, you would pay the same or less for a steel-frame touring-style bike like a Salsa Marrakesh or Surly Long Haul Trucker or similar. The brand doesn't matter, but rugged wheels and a steel frame do.
For one thing, a touring-style bike has longer chain-stays, which puts the rear wheel back further, so you will have fewer (or no) heel strikes against the panniers.
For another, you want a frame that can fit wider tires. Wider tires equal more cushion which will be easier on you and your laptop and gear, when you hit potholes, etc. In fact, I believe the Surly LHT can be ordered with 26" wheels which allows for even wider tires. And wider tires do not necessarily mean slower speeds, as long as you get smooth tires.
I may not have answered you question, but that's my two cents.
I can't tell from your post if you are just starting to commute or not, or if you have been riding for a while, so please excuse me if I came off as condescending, but my main commuter since 2015 has been a semi-touring steel frame Charge Plug, and I couldn't be happier, (except for the flimsy rear hub which failed after three years). And my former commuter for 18 years prior was a 1997 Nishiki Blazer Mountain bike which is now my snow bike, but it still gets ridden in the warmer months with fat 26x1.85 slicks and it is fast and fun!
I had commuted for 17 years before I found this forum 11 years ago, and the difference it has made towards better, safer, more enjoyable commuting has been life-changing!
Good luck with whatever you choose, let us know how it all works out!
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People in Europe just buy a city bike. They’re ubiquitous over there to the point no one rides a road bike to work.
A bike is like a tool. Get one that does what you want.
A bike is like a tool. Get one that does what you want.
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Carbon is too weak and fragile...Go with steel or aluminium.
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I'm recommending aluminum for you. Disc brakes. Get a good set of cyclocross wheels to go with it. Make certain that every part is robust enough to be reliable with your expected use. Larger, durable tires. Strong racks that are well mounted. All of that kind of thinking.
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Would also consider an Ebike - typically stronger frame setup and made to take heavier riders and withstand potholes at the same time.
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ZLSanders - where are you at?
Specifically for you, carbon sounds like overkill. Personally, I would go for something that can take high volume tires (~40mm, maybe 50mm). That is going to help a lot with comfort, load carrying, and minimizing pinch flats.
Some good advice above- especially from BobbyG and Phil Gretz If you are carrying some stuff - longer wheelbase (and lack of heal strike) are items to consider. A touring bike or hybrid would fit the bill.
I love commuting on Carbon (and on steel and on aluminum). All of them are "up to the task" of commuting, although steel does best with the dings the bike will get. But carbon is really only good for light and fast (20mph). If you are carrying a load, you have negated the benefit of light.
I do love commuting on an e-bike sometimes.
Also some bad advice with the one liners.
Generaly, a bike designed with mounting points for racks is designed to carry racks (although heal strike is a valid concern) If it doesn't have rack mounts, its very likely to handle wonky when loaded up.
Aluminum is not "stronger" than Carbon. That isn't a reason to make the choice.
Bikes with mounting for racks are not "not designed for
European comment is irrelevant. You are not in Europe, correct? If you live in a place where there are tons of bike paths and public transportation, and where you can't ride over 10mph and don't need to go more than 5 miles (i.e. < 30 minutes) - ya a "city bike" works great. Been there, done that.
Specifically for you, carbon sounds like overkill. Personally, I would go for something that can take high volume tires (~40mm, maybe 50mm). That is going to help a lot with comfort, load carrying, and minimizing pinch flats.
Some good advice above- especially from BobbyG and Phil Gretz If you are carrying some stuff - longer wheelbase (and lack of heal strike) are items to consider. A touring bike or hybrid would fit the bill.
I love commuting on Carbon (and on steel and on aluminum). All of them are "up to the task" of commuting, although steel does best with the dings the bike will get. But carbon is really only good for light and fast (20mph). If you are carrying a load, you have negated the benefit of light.
I do love commuting on an e-bike sometimes.
Also some bad advice with the one liners.
Generaly, a bike designed with mounting points for racks is designed to carry racks (although heal strike is a valid concern) If it doesn't have rack mounts, its very likely to handle wonky when loaded up.
Aluminum is not "stronger" than Carbon. That isn't a reason to make the choice.
Bikes with mounting for racks are not "not designed for
European comment is irrelevant. You are not in Europe, correct? If you live in a place where there are tons of bike paths and public transportation, and where you can't ride over 10mph and don't need to go more than 5 miles (i.e. < 30 minutes) - ya a "city bike" works great. Been there, done that.
I'm looking at getting a new road bike for a 11 mile commute each way and can't decide on whether to get a carbon or aluminum Trek domane 5. I'm looking to put panniers on the back to carry my laptop bag(for the sl i'd get a rack from trek that connects to the axle), about 10 pounds. I'm about 300lbs and the isospeed on the rear seams nice. I've only ridden similar bikes(cause everything is out of stock). Do you think the carbon will be worth it? I do have a secure place to leave it
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Get a touring bike designed to carry heavy loads. If someday you decide to take up bike touring, you’ll already have a suitable bike.
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I rotate two bikes on my commute, a 2014 Trek Crossrip and a carbon 2011 Motobacame. The Crossrip gives a smoother ride. The Motobacame gives a faster more bumpy ride. I use to use panniers on the Trek but I now ride with a backpack on both bikes.
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IMHO life is too short to not ride a nice bike when you can....even when commuting (i ride vintage steel with modern gear and tubulars for my commute but that is me) I am 240 if it helps
for OP I would consider just using a backpack unless you can get a rack designed to work with the carbon frame......to avoid stress on the carbon not planned for by the designers
and on the Surly ideas I like this one
https://surlybikes.com/bikes/straggler
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Carbon is strong but fragile, if that makes any sense. It is strong for what it was designed for, but knicks and scratches that utility and commuting bikes often endure in their daily life can severely weaken carbon fiber. And when it fails, it fails without warning. Aluminum and steel are more practical for commuting and utility riding.
I agree with those recommending a steel touring bike that can support your weight and racks for stuff. Best of luck!
I agree with those recommending a steel touring bike that can support your weight and racks for stuff. Best of luck!
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According to the OP's profile his last activity was about ten minutes after his first and only post so I guess he found an answer elsewhere
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I'm looking at getting a new road bike for a 11 mile commute each way and can't decide on whether to get a carbon or aluminum Trek domane 5. I'm looking to put panniers on the back to carry my laptop bag(for the sl i'd get a rack from trek that connects to the axle), about 10 pounds.
I'm about 300lbs and the isospeed on the rear seams nice. I've only ridden similar bikes(cause everything is out of stock). Do you think the carbon will be worth it? I do have a secure place to leave it
I'm about 300lbs and the isospeed on the rear seams nice. I've only ridden similar bikes(cause everything is out of stock). Do you think the carbon will be worth it? I do have a secure place to leave it
I have been involved with several threads in general about expensive bikes, and I have posted about my conclusions after riding a nice steel bike for years, totaled in an accident::
…My average speed stayed the same, but I think I was hampered by injuries from the accident, and I believe the new bike compensated at least to maintain my average speed. I did note that I was more inclined to sprint (successfully) to beat traffic lights before they turned red.
I further craved the smoothness of the ride, including the shifting,making cycle-commuting more pleasurable. Of greatest benefit, while long (greater than 40 mile) rides took the same amount of time as before, I felt much less tired at the end.
I further craved the smoothness of the ride, including the shifting,making cycle-commuting more pleasurable. Of greatest benefit, while long (greater than 40 mile) rides took the same amount of time as before, I felt much less tired at the end.
I'm a heavy guy, but weight has not been a concern. My road bike does not have eyelets for a rear rack, but I have a nice seat pack (Arkel), though too small for a laptop, I think.
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Just putting this out there I commuted for 4-5 years on a carbon bike from 1995 (1995 Trek 2120 Carbon ZX) and it was plenty strong, never had issues and it cost me 270 on craigslist (obviously I inspected it carefully and put a lot of trust in the seller). Hell it's still being used now as my everyday work horse bike. I wouldn't worry to much about carbon being "too weak" as some have stated, carbon is f'kin strong as long as you don't introduce weaknesses in it by crashing it 20 mph into a wall.
The only way it would be over kill is if you spent overkill money on it. Plenty of people get into bikes, buy a stupid expensive frame, find out they aren't cut out for cycling, give it up for decades, then decide to sell for pennies on the dollar. I say take advantage of that.
EDIT: Oh snap I didn't read that you were 300 lbs....I'm gonna be honest a carbon frame isn't really going to benefit you much at that weight, on top of what Darth said those frames aren't designed for Clydes that heavy.
The only way it would be over kill is if you spent overkill money on it. Plenty of people get into bikes, buy a stupid expensive frame, find out they aren't cut out for cycling, give it up for decades, then decide to sell for pennies on the dollar. I say take advantage of that.
EDIT: Oh snap I didn't read that you were 300 lbs....I'm gonna be honest a carbon frame isn't really going to benefit you much at that weight, on top of what Darth said those frames aren't designed for Clydes that heavy.
Last edited by GhostSS; 08-03-20 at 01:53 AM. Reason: Oh wait...
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I'm looking at getting a new road bike for a 11 mile commute each way and can't decide on whether to get a carbon or aluminum Trek domane 5. I'm looking to put panniers on the back to carry my laptop bag(for the sl i'd get a rack from trek that connects to the axle), about 10 pounds. I'm about 300lbs and the isospeed on the rear seams nice. I've only ridden similar bikes(cause everything is out of stock). Do you think the carbon will be worth it? I do have a secure place to leave it
If you are 300 lbs, I would NOT get a carbon bike. Even if you were 150lbs, I would still recommend an aluminum bike for commuting. Carbon is great but can be fragile in some situations.
And honestly, the different between a 18 lb bike and a 20 lb bike is meaningless in this situation.
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>Get 2< riding carbon bike is mostly about making you happy with the daily effort ,
but being late due to mechanical problems may make your job security less than solid..
but being late due to mechanical problems may make your job security less than solid..
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I don't think anybody has brought up the mounts on the frame for securing the rack/panniers. I know my AL frame has them on the top and bottom of the seat stays, but I'm not sure how strong they would be on carbon frames, though other mounting options do exist.
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The aluminum Domane in the OP has normal upper and lower rack mounts. The carbon one has mounts hidden on the underside of the stays, and a compartment in the down tube.
Last edited by Darth Lefty; 08-03-20 at 05:35 PM.
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great description...... I may steal (or in my case steel) it
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If you are 300 lbs, I would NOT get a carbon bike. Even if you were 150lbs, I would still recommend an aluminum bike for commuting. Carbon is great but can be fragile in some situations.
And honestly, the different between a 18 lb bike and a 20 lb bike is meaningless in this situation.
And honestly, the different between a 18 lb bike and a 20 lb bike is meaningless in this situation.
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But to me, the question is where is the bike kept after and what is going to potential bang into it or lean up against it?
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I laugh at the comments about carbon being fragile (although it certainly can get cosmetic wear). I never seem to sell my bikes and have a variety from the last century. The only ones I have any problems with are the Aluminum ones which seem to be more susceptible to corrosion, and are too brittle to bend without breaking (mostly an issue with dropouts and hangers) Long, long ago, I had a carbon bike fly off my car at 80mph. I checked the frame thoroughly, but no damage, and it is still going strong decades later. The aluminum parts attached to it were trashed of course.
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