Doh! I Knew That Sooner or Later...
08-24-23, 06:28 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Doh! I Knew That Sooner or Later...
I'd get a rear flat on this bike....the one where I wrestled a 130mm hub into a 125mm frame space...the one with forward-facing dropouts so that the rear tire has to be flat in order for the wheel to clear the fender. Well, Sunday was the day. Fortunately, I felt the telltale whump-whump-whump just before a fast downhill.
BUT, the good news is that with the bike upside-down it's actually pretty easy to get the rear wheel out and back into the dropouts - WAY easier than with the bike in a workstand with gravity working against me. If I remove the Q/R skewer, put my thumbs against the axle, and pry the frame with my fingers the axle pops into the dropout with minimal effort - one side at a time.
The front wheel is also easier to remove/install with the bike upside-down.
Who knew?! No more workstand for wheel work on this bike!!
On the day-of, a new tube got me 20 miles back home. Since then, two new Gravel King Slicks and I'm good to go! 650bx38.
BUT, the good news is that with the bike upside-down it's actually pretty easy to get the rear wheel out and back into the dropouts - WAY easier than with the bike in a workstand with gravity working against me. If I remove the Q/R skewer, put my thumbs against the axle, and pry the frame with my fingers the axle pops into the dropout with minimal effort - one side at a time.
The front wheel is also easier to remove/install with the bike upside-down.
Who knew?! No more workstand for wheel work on this bike!!
On the day-of, a new tube got me 20 miles back home. Since then, two new Gravel King Slicks and I'm good to go! 650bx38.
Last edited by jlaw; 08-24-23 at 06:32 PM.
08-25-23, 06:48 AM
#2
feros ferio
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It's probably my rims, but I have had a lot of difficulty fitting foldable tires onto my road bike. Looks like you didn't have any trouble with yours?
I have done lots of roadside repairs with the bike upside-down on the road shoulder.
I have done lots of roadside repairs with the bike upside-down on the road shoulder.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
08-25-23, 07:02 AM
#3
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I had a bike that I used to have to deflate the rear tire to remove the wheel. It is a 1972 Mondia and someone had changed it to 27” rims but kept the original Record HF hubs so I rode it for years that way, a real PIA. I finally found some 700c wheels that were correct for the bike and life is good. It looks like you found a solution for your situation.
08-25-23, 09:22 AM
#4
The Huffmeister
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Is that your '79 710 listed in your side profile there? Lovely bike and color.
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There were 135 Confentes, but only one...Huffente!
There were 135 Confentes, but only one...Huffente!
08-25-23, 09:58 AM
#5
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BUT, the good news is that with the bike upside-down it's actually pretty easy to get the rear wheel out and back into the dropouts - WAY easier than with the bike in a workstand with gravity working against me. If I remove the Q/R skewer, put my thumbs against the axle, and pry the frame with my fingers the axle pops into the dropout with minimal effort - one side at a time.
The front wheel is also easier to remove/install with the bike upside-down.
The front wheel is also easier to remove/install with the bike upside-down.
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08-25-23, 11:20 AM
#6
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the good news is that with the bike upside-down it's actually pretty easy to get the rear wheel out and back into the dropouts - WAY easier than with the bike in a workstand with gravity working against me.
The front wheel is also easier to remove/install with the bike upside-down.
Who knew?! No more workstand for wheel work on this bike!!
The front wheel is also easier to remove/install with the bike upside-down.
Who knew?! No more workstand for wheel work on this bike!!
08-25-23, 11:21 AM
#7
Polymultiplié
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That's how it works in the field. 
In built-up areas this is my preferred MO:
In built-up areas this is my preferred MO:
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08-25-23, 11:25 AM
#8
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Looks like a very nice trail.
Gravel King Slicks... I am gonna check um out...
Gravel King Slicks... I am gonna check um out...
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)
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08-25-23, 05:00 PM
#9
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Thread Starter
1) push as much of the bead onto the rim as possible by hand
2) Starting 180* from the bead that is not yet installed, push the bead into the center (well) of the rim and work your way around to the bead that hasn't yet cleared the edge. Do this several times and you should incrementally get closer to full install.
This helps because the centerline of the rim has a slightly smaller diameter than the edges and this is why you can gain a little each time you work it around.
With the new Gravel King Slicks I installed I got one of them to clear by hand and the other I used a plastic tire lever once to clear the last bit.
Jan Heine at the Rene Herse site explains how to do this in one of his blog posts about tubeless set up - it's about halfway down the post:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/how-...ubeless-tires/
Last edited by jlaw; 08-25-23 at 05:09 PM.
08-25-23, 05:18 PM
#10
feros ferio
Join Date: Jul 2000
Location: www.ci.encinitas.ca.us
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The internet taught me the following:
1) push as much of the bead onto the rim as possible by hand
2) Starting 180* from the bead that is not yet installed, push the bead into the center (well) of the rim and work your way around to the bead that hasn't yet cleared the edge. Do this several times and you should incrementally get closer to full install.
This helps because the centerline of the rim has a slightly smaller diameter than the edges and this is why you can gain a little each time you work it around.
1) push as much of the bead onto the rim as possible by hand
2) Starting 180* from the bead that is not yet installed, push the bead into the center (well) of the rim and work your way around to the bead that hasn't yet cleared the edge. Do this several times and you should incrementally get closer to full install.
This helps because the centerline of the rim has a slightly smaller diameter than the edges and this is why you can gain a little each time you work it around.
Right now I am trying to install an older model of non-tubeless Contis, and at least I can get the first bead over the edge. I recall my old Conti. 2000s being a tight fit, but it's almost as though each succeeding generation of tire has a smaller inner diameter.
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
08-25-23, 05:21 PM
#11
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Thread Starter
There are a few recent pictures here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/22969683-post2543.html
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08-26-23, 06:47 AM
#13
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It is so nice to see someone taking care not to smash the shifter name plates!
08-26-23, 03:41 PM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Maybe this thing is worth a try:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...ire-bead-jack/
$15
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08-26-23, 03:49 PM
#15
feros ferio
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Sorry to hear that.
Maybe this thing is worth a try:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...ire-bead-jack/
$15
Maybe this thing is worth a try:
https://www.renehersecycles.com/shop...ire-bead-jack/
$15
__________________
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
08-27-23, 12:09 PM
#16
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Older rims have trouble with newer tires. I had to finally retire my single MA40 to my town bike, using CST tires.
08-27-23, 01:23 PM
#17
working on my sandal tan
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Tangential, but does the spring make any noise while riding?
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