Want to save $1000 or more on your next bike buy?
#1
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Want to save $1000 or more on your next bike buy?
If you expected to find a marketing ploy in this thread I have to disappoint you, or maybe relieve you.
I am not trying to sell you or point out a special sale.
What I am trying to get across is that it is quite simple to save that much money on the purchase of a top level bike. Independent of sale specials!
For argument's sake lets say that a quality road bike that weighs 2lbs less than the next model may cost you an extra $800 to $1000.
If one 180lb rider bought a 24lb bike for $3000 the total weight of bike and rider is 204lbs.
If the same rider went on a low-carb diet for a month and dropped 2lbs in weight (which is real easy to do over 4 weeks, and will stay off!) he could buy a 26lb bike for $2000, at a $1000 saving.
These numbers may be arbitrary, but that is not the issue, and hopefully, you still get the point.
I am not trying to sell you or point out a special sale.
What I am trying to get across is that it is quite simple to save that much money on the purchase of a top level bike. Independent of sale specials!
For argument's sake lets say that a quality road bike that weighs 2lbs less than the next model may cost you an extra $800 to $1000.
If one 180lb rider bought a 24lb bike for $3000 the total weight of bike and rider is 204lbs.
If the same rider went on a low-carb diet for a month and dropped 2lbs in weight (which is real easy to do over 4 weeks, and will stay off!) he could buy a 26lb bike for $2000, at a $1000 saving.
These numbers may be arbitrary, but that is not the issue, and hopefully, you still get the point.
#2
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Okay, but if the buyer dropped 2 lbs, and got a bike 2 lbs lighter, well he would be 4 lbs better off. Instead of $500 per lb less it would be down to a much more affordable $250 per pound. Just saying........
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#4
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Your methods aims to spend extra $$$ for a lighter bike, while mine aims to spend less $$$ for a heavier one - and the total weight of bike and rider would be equal with either method.
Last edited by Again; 07-30-11 at 11:06 PM.
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or you can just buy the bike you want, and weight whatever you want.
#6
But does 1 pound of the belly = to 1 pound off the bike?
I remember someone saying it's not because weight on the body can be used to help one pedal, while wait off a bike is really a win-win situation. Not sure if this is entirely true or not, or if this fact justifies forking over $1000+.
Now would aesthetics be enough to justify a bit of my overspending?
I remember someone saying it's not because weight on the body can be used to help one pedal, while wait off a bike is really a win-win situation. Not sure if this is entirely true or not, or if this fact justifies forking over $1000+.
Now would aesthetics be enough to justify a bit of my overspending?
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Look I was just funning anyway.
These discussions are pointless really. How heavy a bike will you ride and enjoy? A common limit mentioned is 40 lbs max for bike and gear. Even subjectively other things come into play. I have a 30 lbs MTB that rides much lighter or so it seems. Had a 34 lbs MTB that rode, well at least all of its 34 lbs though it was still fun to ride. Just not as nice once you have been on something better. Have a 25 lbs MTB that rides pretty darn well, but not as well as the 30 lbs bike (the heavier one is a susser the lighter a rigid).
Road bikes, I have an old bike that is 27 lbs. Frame fits well, and I like the way it rides. It does ride a bit less well than my newest 18 lbs. road bike. Though the difference is not all that great. Lighter is better all things equal (which they never quite are). If money were no object, I would have a 10 lbs bike if its possible. Money being a concern changes he equation. A strong low end frame with modest entry level components that fits is still pretty darn good. If I have the money I can move up from there. It is diminishing returns for sure.
So in short, no I don't get your point at all. Is it that we all should save money and lose a couple more pounds? Is it that considering money lighter bikes at another kilobuck are evil? Should I lose 6 pounds and pick up a heavy old bike at the thrift store for $15? Really, what is your point? This is without even mentioning that also while small differences the more expensive bikes also have higher end groups and wheels etc. that feel a bit nicer. You are buying a bit more than just weight. Really, what is your point?
#8
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That's nothing. I saved $15,000 on the last car I bought. I just bought a Honda Fit instead of an Odyssey. I guess the point is that there's always a cheaper alternative that someone else will tell you meets all of your functional needs.
#9
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What happens when you are less than 140lbs like me? Guess I need a 50lb bike to make it fair.
You are paying for more than the weight of the bike. Components are better, frame material is stiffer/lighter, and everything will be a bit nicer.
If you want to just straight up get a cheap bike that is decently light, get it used, go to bikesdirect.com or neuvationcycling.com and then you won't have to lose as much weight and you saved money.
You are paying for more than the weight of the bike. Components are better, frame material is stiffer/lighter, and everything will be a bit nicer.
If you want to just straight up get a cheap bike that is decently light, get it used, go to bikesdirect.com or neuvationcycling.com and then you won't have to lose as much weight and you saved money.
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But if you buy the expensive bike and can't afford to buy groceries for a few weeks afterwards, you'll probably lose more than 4 lbs anyway. This is the BF solution.
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#16
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Lookit, I agree that spending 1000 bucks just to shave a pound or two off your bike may be silly.
However, the "higher end" components, besides being lighter, can often provide better performance.
For example, continental GP4000s tires give a much better ride than the stock tires that come on an entry level bike. Maybe they are a smidge lighter but that's not the goal.
Same goes for better components, drivetrain, etc.
So I respectfully disagree with your premise.
However, the "higher end" components, besides being lighter, can often provide better performance.
For example, continental GP4000s tires give a much better ride than the stock tires that come on an entry level bike. Maybe they are a smidge lighter but that's not the goal.
Same goes for better components, drivetrain, etc.
So I respectfully disagree with your premise.
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#19
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#20
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But does 1 pound of the belly = to 1 pound off the bike?
I remember someone saying it's not because weight on the body can be used to help one pedal, while wait off a bike is really a win-win situation. Not sure if this is entirely true or not, or if this fact justifies forking over $1000+.
Now would aesthetics be enough to justify a bit of my overspending?
I remember someone saying it's not because weight on the body can be used to help one pedal, while wait off a bike is really a win-win situation. Not sure if this is entirely true or not, or if this fact justifies forking over $1000+.
Now would aesthetics be enough to justify a bit of my overspending?
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#23
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My weight is right where I want it and my bikes are right where I want them. I had a heavier steel bike recently and hated how it felt to ride. If I don't like riding it, it's not worth any type of money. I'll starve myself so that I can ride that which makes me happy out on the road rather than throw good money at something I do not enjoy.
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Agreed, at least for some people they are. For others, they may be valuable. I made my point for the others.
Ah, it looks like you *are* getting my point, after all!
That of course, is up to the individual. And his or her needs/priorities/abilities, or will power. What do you weigh? Would it do you any harm to shave 2lbs off it and would you have trouble spending $1000 on some other luxury?
We all understand that you pay for component groups as well, although much of that also concerns weight savings. However, the overall logic still applies. I am sorry, but I can't make my point much clearer than I did. You neither have to understand it, nor agree with it. I brought it up for those people who do.
How heavy a bike will you ride and enjoy? Road bikes, I have an old bike that is 27 lbs. Frame fits well, and I like the way it rides. It does ride a bit less well than my newest 18 lbs. road bike. Though the difference is not all that great. Lighter is better all things equal (which they never quite are). If money were no object, I would have a 10 lbs bike if its possible. Money being a concern changes he equation. A strong low end frame with modest entry level components that fits is still pretty darn good. ... So in short, no I don't get your point at all.
Is it that we all should save money and lose a couple more pounds?
Is it that considering money lighter bikes at another kilobuck are evil? Should I lose 6 pounds and pick up a heavy old bike at the thrift store for $15? Really, what is your point? This is without even mentioning that also while small differences the more expensive bikes also have higher end groups and wheels etc. that feel a bit nicer. You are buying a bit more than just weight. Really, what is your point?
#25
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I'd say get the lightest / highest quality bike you can afford AND lose as much weight as possible..that way you are likely to end up riding it even more.