Selle Anatomica Saddles
#76
Old Legs
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My first SA saddle , surprised me a first. Previously, all my saddles were installed in a level position, with a level. First ride, I slammed on the brakes , and almost slide off the bike. When straight home, and started, slightly, tipping the front of the SA up, until I stayed seated. Problem solved . Of course, lowering the rear of the SA, I needed to raise the entire seat post, as that altered the saddle height, slightly. KB
#77
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2015
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This is a general leather saddle question, I have two Brooks B17s.
It seems that both Brooks and SA recommend waterproofing the bottom of the saddles (Brooks recommends using very little Proofide to polish the top of the saddle).
Why is that?
Is it to protect the bottom of the saddle when riding in wet weather and water is cast by the tires under the saddle? (I have fenders, so this is not an issue with me.)
Or is it to maintain the rough bottom of the saddle pliable to achieve the 'hammock' effect?
It seems that both Brooks and SA recommend waterproofing the bottom of the saddles (Brooks recommends using very little Proofide to polish the top of the saddle).
Why is that?
Is it to protect the bottom of the saddle when riding in wet weather and water is cast by the tires under the saddle? (I have fenders, so this is not an issue with me.)
Or is it to maintain the rough bottom of the saddle pliable to achieve the 'hammock' effect?
#78
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I finally found an H2 in B stock for $139.99 and grabbed it. I've put about 100 miles on it so far, and after a few tweaks with the tension setting and tilt, I finally have a saddle that is comfortable! For some reason I did not find it to be all that slippery, and so I have it more or less level and find that to be the most comfortable position.
#79
Senior Member
This is a general leather saddle question, I have two Brooks B17s.
It seems that both Brooks and SA recommend waterproofing the bottom of the saddles (Brooks recommends using very little Proofide to polish the top of the saddle).
Why is that?
Is it to protect the bottom of the saddle when riding in wet weather and water is cast by the tires under the saddle? (I have fenders, so this is not an issue with me.)
Or is it to maintain the rough bottom of the saddle pliable to achieve the 'hammock' effect?
It seems that both Brooks and SA recommend waterproofing the bottom of the saddles (Brooks recommends using very little Proofide to polish the top of the saddle).
Why is that?
Is it to protect the bottom of the saddle when riding in wet weather and water is cast by the tires under the saddle? (I have fenders, so this is not an issue with me.)
Or is it to maintain the rough bottom of the saddle pliable to achieve the 'hammock' effect?
WATER AND LEATHER...
October 08, 2015...do not mix well. Water saturation makes leather stretch. Carry a grocery bag or saddle cover with you at all times to cover your saddle if you encounter serious rain.
WaterShed doesn't mean waterproof. The top of our WaterShed saddles repel water because of a special and expensive additive in the tanning mixture. Our bottom pieces of leather however, are veg, a type of leather that has no water repellent properties. We coat the bottom of the saddles at the factory with Saddle Sauce. However, if you get the bottom of the saddle wet, there is a chance water will seep in at the edges and the leather will stretch. We do not warrant leather failure due to excessive exposure to water.
If your saddle gets wet, loosen the bolt, remove all tension from the leather and let it dry naturally.
#80
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From the Selle Anatomica website..
WATER AND LEATHER...
October 08, 2015...do not mix well. Water saturation makes leather stretch. Carry a grocery bag or saddle cover with you at all times to cover your saddle if you encounter serious rain.
WaterShed doesn't mean waterproof. The top of our WaterShed saddles repel water because of a special and expensive additive in the tanning mixture. Our bottom pieces of leather however, are veg, a type of leather that has no water repellent properties. We coat the bottom of the saddles at the factory with Saddle Sauce. However, if you get the bottom of the saddle wet, there is a chance water will seep in at the edges and the leather will stretch. We do not warrant leather failure due to excessive exposure to water.
If your saddle gets wet, loosen the bolt, remove all tension from the leather and let it dry naturally.
[MENTION=477864]Patriot1[/MENTION]: Thank you for the quote, the directions of what to do if you get the leather wet are good to know.
#81
Senior Member
I carry a shower cap to protect my saddle when not riding on it (when I ride in the rain, my derriere provides the rain protection and I use the shower cap on the helmet. I can see waterproofing the edges, but the bottom doesn't have a chance to get wet if you use fenders.
[MENTION=477864]Patriot1[/MENTION]: Thank you for the quote, the directions of what to do if you get the leather wet are good to know.
[MENTION=477864]Patriot1[/MENTION]: Thank you for the quote, the directions of what to do if you get the leather wet are good to know.
I cover and tie off a plastic grocery bag on my Selle when transporting my bike on the hitch rack. Works fine.
Also treated the underside of the saddle with the saddle sauce. FWIW...love my SA’s.
Last edited by Patriot1; 05-24-18 at 03:10 AM.
#82
No newbie
Join Date: Jun 2004
Location: North Jersey
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Bikes: 2001 Specialized Expedition Sport | 1972 Raleigh Sprite 27 | 1973 Raleigh Super Course | 1984 Trek 720 | 2019 Cannondale SuperX
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Ride report:
My original intent for this saddle was to mount it on a future modern bike. I wanted to start getting used to the SA right away so that it would be dialed in and familiar before service on the new bike, so here it is on my '73 Raleigh replacing a Wrights W3N.
I now have about 120 miles on the SA and I might be done with tweaking the tension. The bolt has about 1/3 threads remaining (sorry, no pics). On about three occasions so far I've looked at the slot and noticed the gap was no longer a quarter inch wide. I'll keep an eye on it, but I think the leather has settled in (I weigh 175 lbs.).
It certainly is more comfy than the vintage saddles I'm used to. This bike had a Wrights and my touring Trek 720 has a Brooks Pro. Those are mostly broken in but they remain stiff. The SA is straight up springy. I've stuck my finger underneath while riding just to make sure I wasn't bottoming out (I'm not). A new sensation for me is what I'll call cheek smoosh. I'm used to each butt cheek choosing its side of the saddle. The SA feels flat laterally; it does not divide left cheek from right. So far that's not an issue per se, it's just new for me.
I might consider trying an NSX-2 model (in black) after I migrate this saddle to its new steed. Time will tell.
My original intent for this saddle was to mount it on a future modern bike. I wanted to start getting used to the SA right away so that it would be dialed in and familiar before service on the new bike, so here it is on my '73 Raleigh replacing a Wrights W3N.
I now have about 120 miles on the SA and I might be done with tweaking the tension. The bolt has about 1/3 threads remaining (sorry, no pics). On about three occasions so far I've looked at the slot and noticed the gap was no longer a quarter inch wide. I'll keep an eye on it, but I think the leather has settled in (I weigh 175 lbs.).
It certainly is more comfy than the vintage saddles I'm used to. This bike had a Wrights and my touring Trek 720 has a Brooks Pro. Those are mostly broken in but they remain stiff. The SA is straight up springy. I've stuck my finger underneath while riding just to make sure I wasn't bottoming out (I'm not). A new sensation for me is what I'll call cheek smoosh. I'm used to each butt cheek choosing its side of the saddle. The SA feels flat laterally; it does not divide left cheek from right. So far that's not an issue per se, it's just new for me.
I might consider trying an NSX-2 model (in black) after I migrate this saddle to its new steed. Time will tell.
Last edited by davlafont; 05-24-18 at 02:03 PM.
#83
I never finish anyth
Hey [MENTION=12349]davlafont[/MENTION] - where did you get that awesome BF sticker? Your Raleigh looks great. The lined lugs and the leather wraps on the bottle cages are nice touches.
I'm also quite pleased with my SA saddles. I'll be needing another one soon for another build. I have two now, one on a carbon Eddy Merckx, and the second on my Cannondale ST600.
I'm also quite pleased with my SA saddles. I'll be needing another one soon for another build. I have two now, one on a carbon Eddy Merckx, and the second on my Cannondale ST600.
__________________
Dale, NL4T
Dale, NL4T
#84
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Funny you should ask! Head on over to the Classic & Vintage forum and check out the BF "stickers" thread. The awesome folks in C&V crowdsourced the concept and an awesome forumite (who shall remain nameless) made it all happen. I only hope there are still some remaining in case a deluge of requests come pouring in after this shameless plug. "Act now, quantities are limited" as the saying goes...
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-stickers.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/classic-v...-stickers.html
#86
Junior Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Howell, NJ
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The two sides of your body move independently. Your saddle should move with them. The slot is the most important part of our suspended leather design. The specific shape of our patented slot's inverted rear wings allows the saddle to move with you. We call it Flex-Fly. It reduces perineal pressure, sit bone pain, and saddle sores. Allowing the leather to move under your sit bones is what makes our saddles so comfortable. This is the only functional slot in the industry. And it’s patented so nobody else can do it.
#87
Junior Member
I bought a new black X1 directly from SA 4 or 5 months ago. I rode it maybe 100 miles and absolutely hated it, most uncomfortable saddle, for me, that I ever rode. Took it off and threw it in the drawe of my work bench. I have about 600 miles by now on my Brooks B17 which I hate only slightly less than the SA.
#88
Non omnino gravis
I bought a new black X1 directly from SA 4 or 5 months ago. I rode it maybe 100 miles and absolutely hated it, most uncomfortable saddle, for me, that I ever rode. Took it off and threw it in the drawe of my work bench. I have about 600 miles by now on my Brooks B17 which I hate only slightly less than the SA.
Source:
11,000+ miles on an X1
1,800 miles on an H2
800 miles on a C Series
All still in service.
#89
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I bought a new black X1 directly from SA 4 or 5 months ago. I rode it maybe 100 miles and absolutely hated it, most uncomfortable saddle, for me, that I ever rode. Took it off and threw it in the drawe of my work bench. I have about 600 miles by now on my Brooks B17 which I hate only slightly less than the SA.
Throw that X1 up for sale here and you sure to fund something less uncomfortable.
Last edited by davlafont; 06-04-18 at 08:13 AM.
#90
Senior Member
Rode my first 25 mi on my new SA the other day....a keeper and total comfort
86 Peloton - my Vintage fun machine!
86 Peloton - my Vintage fun machine!
#91
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This weekend I did my first SA-equipped charity ride, a 35-miler. Fully comfortable including post-ride walking around. I know that's not a super long distance, but for me it's long enough for discomfort to set in. The saddle was about 150 miles old. I rode without padded shorts, same as I have since I mounted it. I think I'm done with padded shorts for ever.
#92
Slacker
So sometime between that ^^^ post and this one, I bent the rails on my X1-- not at all surprising, as I've been using the bike on gnarlier and gnarlier off-road stuff. What is surprising is that the bend was not only symmetrical side-to-side, but it also effectively lengthened the frame, allowing me to take about 6 full turns out of the tension bolt. I then adjusted the angle to get the nose back where I like it, and it's just as comfortable as ever. Go figure.
Next big sale, maybe I'll pick up another H2. But my trusty X1 soldiers on.
Next big sale, maybe I'll pick up another H2. But my trusty X1 soldiers on.
I bought a new black X1 directly from SA 4 or 5 months ago. I rode it maybe 100 miles and absolutely hated it, most uncomfortable saddle, for me, that I ever rode. Took it off and threw it in the drawe of my work bench. I have about 600 miles by now on my Brooks B17 which I hate only slightly less than the SA.
#93
Non omnino gravis
I went through a box of saddles-- never got one to last more than about 4,000 miles. I 'd lose weight, or my on-bike position would change, and whatever saddle I was running spontaneously would go from "okay" to "I'm now going to murder your undercarriage." Also broke a few. Got my first SA on a color closeout sale, and it was a keeper from the very first ride. Even the C-Series can be used without padded shorts.
I wish so much I could be comfortable on a typical saddle. They're cheaper, lighter, and don't look as weird. But here we are.
I wish so much I could be comfortable on a typical saddle. They're cheaper, lighter, and don't look as weird. But here we are.
#94
Slacker
They just emailed a 10% off promo code: SUMMER10. Applies to everything not on sale.
#95
I have an X1 and it's fantastic for comfort. I can ride for 50 miles easy without padded shorts and my backside is no worse for the wear. That said, there are a couple things that bother me about it -- it makes a lot of noise and it also feels quite squishy when I pedal at a high-ish cadence. Due to these issues I've been thinking about purchasing an H2, despite my weighing only about 150. I would really like to feel more support when I'm pedaling hard and fast. The noise is a known issue, but is there a fix for it? I think it might be the actual leather, so I kind of doubt it. Has anybody else gone to the thicker leather even though their weight is appropriate for the X model?
#96
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I'm also considering going to the NSX to get a more traditional feel of support.
#97
Junior Member
I think the instructions here are misguided. After the first ride or two, I'd stop using the bolt to maintain that 1/4" width. Only tighten if you feel the saddle is sagging too much. If the two sides of the slot are getting too close, but the saddle is otherwise fine, I'd sand the edges of the slot to maintain the proper width.
#98
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I know this thread is long going but since I ordered an H1 today much of the decision was based on posts here in this thread I thought I'd give it a bumb.
I recently discovered that my sit bones aren't perpendicular to my spine so when sitting more weight is supported by my left sit bone than my right. I thought that maybe a leather saddle would eventually level out my unlevelness.I contacted both SA and Brooks with questions, both were responsive and helpful. I really liked the looks of a Brooks Swift, it's shape and the hammered brass rivets but unfortunately at only 150mm wide Brooks didn't recommend it for someone my size and riding style (I'm over 200 pounds, sit bones measure upwards of 120mm CTC and I spend most of my time at a 40-50 degree angle with about 3 inches of drop between my seat and bars). I've never had any real perineal pain but I've always ridden on relieved saddles so I if given the choice I planned to go with an Imperial version of the B17 or Team Pro if I bought a Brooks.
This morning I was notified that the winter12 12% discount ended today which was just the nudge to seal the deal for me. I ordered an H1 in black with brass rivets and black frame this morning, a combo not offered in the H2 series or the Brooks' I'd been considering. With the 12% off promo code, the total cost shipped was $105.60. I also ordered a 4.4-ounce bottle of Eco_Flo recommended by [MENTION=400231]DrIsotope[/MENTION].
I'll update when I get some miles on the SA.
This morning I was notified that the winter12 12% discount ended today which was just the nudge to seal the deal for me. I ordered an H1 in black with brass rivets and black frame this morning, a combo not offered in the H2 series or the Brooks' I'd been considering. With the 12% off promo code, the total cost shipped was $105.60. I also ordered a 4.4-ounce bottle of Eco_Flo recommended by [MENTION=400231]DrIsotope[/MENTION].
I'll update when I get some miles on the SA.
Last edited by dksix; 02-01-19 at 08:26 PM.
#99
Advocatus Diaboli
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I know this thread is long going but since I ordered an H1 today much of the decision was based on posts here in this thread I thought I'd give it a bumb.
I recently discovered that my sit bones aren't perpendicular to my spine so when sitting more weight is supported by my left sit bone than my right.
#100
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I kinda wonder if I have the same thing going on with you, witnessing different wear characteristics on the left vs right side of the saddle. No idea if appropriate, but thought a saddle design along the lines of the below, with a split at the rear, would allow more left/right independence of movement and height
I've never had a professional fit, I don't know what level of technology either one of the shops in driving distance of me has. Maybe this could have been discovered years ago had I gone to one of those shops, maybe not and maybe they would have known how to address the issue. I've read and watched a lot on bike fitting and fitting issues, I've never seen anything documented on this issue specifically.
I have a Terry saddle that's split all the way through like the one you pictured. It's a Terry FLX demo that's 133-135mm wide x 280mm long. It's too narrow for me, if you want to give it a try PM me your info and I'll send it to you. I went out to the shop and took some pictures of it. I'll not load down this Selle Anatomica thread with pictures of another saddle but here's a link to the gallery where the pictures are uploaded. It looks bent in the upside down picture but that's just the angle, it's undamaged in near perfect condition except where the rails have been clamped.
https://postimg.cc/gallery/1yks86czi/
Last edited by dksix; 02-02-19 at 11:56 AM.