My Sram Omnium Crank has a Very Small Play. Is it still Safe to Ride it?
#1
My Sram Omnium Crank has a Very Small Play. Is it still Safe to Ride it?
My Sram Omnium Crank has a Very Small Play. Is it still Safe to Ride it? like when i move it laterally, it has a play like 1mm (just my estimation). but its play only appears on 3 o'clock (Drive Side) Arm Position.
I noticed it when i was Training on my Turbo Trainer. There was a slight squeak sound.
My Question is, Is it still Safe to Ride it? not like as in in safety but for its longetivity like will it damage the crank and whatnot.
And what shall i do to eliminate this? i just noticed it this week and i have been using this cranks for more than 6 months
Thanks in Advance!
Edit, i made a video. Here is my Video on my Cranks with its play and TURN ON the volume up in the non driveside, you will hear some grease squeeze when i move the spindle up and down
I noticed it when i was Training on my Turbo Trainer. There was a slight squeak sound.
My Question is, Is it still Safe to Ride it? not like as in in safety but for its longetivity like will it damage the crank and whatnot.
And what shall i do to eliminate this? i just noticed it this week and i have been using this cranks for more than 6 months
Thanks in Advance!
Edit, i made a video. Here is my Video on my Cranks with its play and TURN ON the volume up in the non driveside, you will hear some grease squeeze when i move the spindle up and down
Last edited by SuperPershing; 03-16-20 at 10:48 AM.
#4
Senior Member
Funny, just saw a Hambini youtube about SRAM/FSA BB. You might consider adding a wavy washer to the
spindle, perhaps inside of the R side of the spindle, assuming one is not there already. I don't think it is
dangerous per se but wear rate will increase a bit. A 1-1.5mm spacer addition to the inside of the R side of
the spindle (drive side) is an alternative if you already have a wavy washer in place. 24mm spacers in
various widths are readily available.
spindle, perhaps inside of the R side of the spindle, assuming one is not there already. I don't think it is
dangerous per se but wear rate will increase a bit. A 1-1.5mm spacer addition to the inside of the R side of
the spindle (drive side) is an alternative if you already have a wavy washer in place. 24mm spacers in
various widths are readily available.
#5
Funny, just saw a Hambini youtube about SRAM/FSA BB. You might consider adding a wavy washer to the
spindle, perhaps inside of the R side of the spindle, assuming one is not there already. I don't think it is
dangerous per se but wear rate will increase a bit. A 1-1.5mm spacer addition to the inside of the R side of
the spindle (drive side) is an alternative if you already have a wavy washer in place. 24mm spacers in
various widths are readily available.
spindle, perhaps inside of the R side of the spindle, assuming one is not there already. I don't think it is
dangerous per se but wear rate will increase a bit. A 1-1.5mm spacer addition to the inside of the R side of
the spindle (drive side) is an alternative if you already have a wavy washer in place. 24mm spacers in
various widths are readily available.
I have this "Thing" in my Spindle and i noticed, im the only one that have it compared to other sram omnium people. And it also acts like a Dust Cap for the bearing. With this, i should still install a wavy washer?
#6
Senior Member
First thing to try would be really cranking down on the crank bolt, as its rated torque is pretty high.
#7
i have torque this to a GORILLA TORQUE! And pardon me, the play is not on the drive side. Its on the left when i took it down and i frecking saw a movement in the end of the spindle of the non drive side. Bastard Sram
#8
Senior Member
Worth a shot. Have you removed the crank? How are the bearings? Is your BB pressfit? Looking at the SRAM service document for crank installation, you you need a wavy washer on the DS if you have a PF BB, but not if you have a threaded one.
#9
Well i mean, its highly unlikely to deform or shred a Super Strong CroMolly Steel Spindle to make it out of shape to have a play on the non drive side. Or am I wrong?
#10
Senior Member
From the first OP post I assumed the play was axial, ie the spindle could be moved in-out or horizontally by ~1mm. Now I wonder if
the play is radial (up-down in relation to the ground when the bike is vertical) when the OP says it is limited to the
NDS. The interesting thing about the Hambini vid was the SRAM bearings just slid into place on the spindle meaning
there was noticeable radial looseness. Bearings work best with a degree of press fit, ie not perceptibly loose on the
spindle.
If the looseness is axial and does not respond to rated torque to the fixing bolt then I would try a wavy washer out board of
the bearing dustcap in post #5 .
the play is radial (up-down in relation to the ground when the bike is vertical) when the OP says it is limited to the
NDS. The interesting thing about the Hambini vid was the SRAM bearings just slid into place on the spindle meaning
there was noticeable radial looseness. Bearings work best with a degree of press fit, ie not perceptibly loose on the
spindle.
If the looseness is axial and does not respond to rated torque to the fixing bolt then I would try a wavy washer out board of
the bearing dustcap in post #5 .
#11
From the first OP post I assumed the play was axial, ie the spindle could be moved in-out or horizontally by ~1mm. Now I wonder if
the play is radial (up-down in relation to the ground when the bike is vertical) when the OP says it is limited to the
NDS. The interesting thing about the Hambini vid was the SRAM bearings just slid into place on the spindle meaning
there was noticeable radial looseness. Bearings work best with a degree of press fit, ie not perceptibly loose on the
spindle.
If the looseness is axial and does not respond to rated torque to the fixing bolt then I would try a wavy washer out board of
the bearing dustcap in post #5 .
the play is radial (up-down in relation to the ground when the bike is vertical) when the OP says it is limited to the
NDS. The interesting thing about the Hambini vid was the SRAM bearings just slid into place on the spindle meaning
there was noticeable radial looseness. Bearings work best with a degree of press fit, ie not perceptibly loose on the
spindle.
If the looseness is axial and does not respond to rated torque to the fixing bolt then I would try a wavy washer out board of
the bearing dustcap in post #5 .
And now my next 2 question is, Other than the Wavy, will this be fixed if i buy a New Sram GXP BB?
And my last Question is, If i continue to use this with a play, will it damage it to the point of no return? Because Philippines is in a Lock Down due to the corona virus in one month, so bike stores are closed (And i train here in my Turbo Trainer for at least 1 hour a day, and again, its hard to find a wavy washer but i will try)
Thank you mechanic folks! God bless and stay safe out there!
And yeah, i saw hambini's vid bout sram gxp is ****e. Dont have the money for him to fix my cranks hahaah. And my god that sexy bearing he putted in that non drive side!
Last edited by SuperPershing; 03-16-20 at 09:25 AM.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,410
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Based on the Hambini video, wouldn’t all GXP cranks have some amount of play due to the lack of preload on the NDS and the spring-based preload on the DS? Good bearing systems use a rigid preload collar that preloads both bearings equally.
#13
ALL?? i didn't heard that. The this play is "Normal" us Sram Users? so it would't hurt our cranks in the long run?
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Posts: 1,410
Bikes: 2017 Specialized Allez Sprint Comp
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EDIT: just watched your video. That looks completely normal. Bearings typically have clearances built in. Just check out any normal bearings by hand. The entire point of preload is to take up that slack.
#16
Again, I’m just drawing conclusions from the Hambini video... but while it won’t hurt your crank, it will cause some extra wear in your bearings, particularly your non drive side. I’m pretty sure he says so in his video. I’d find a new GXP bike somewhere to compare. Maybe a new Trek Madone or Emonda with AXS.
EDIT: just watched your video. That looks completely normal. Bearings typically have clearances built in. Just check out any normal bearings by hand. The entire point of preload is to take up that slack.
EDIT: just watched your video. That looks completely normal. Bearings typically have clearances built in. Just check out any normal bearings by hand. The entire point of preload is to take up that slack.
Last edited by SuperPershing; 03-16-20 at 11:15 AM.