Looking for advice: commuting with a vintage MTB
#1
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Looking for advice: commuting with a vintage MTB
ciao!
I plan to restore a vintage (1990) Diamond Back Apex to use as all-around bike and for commuting (when we will be allowed to return to office...)
The plan is very simple:
- change tyres
- change saddle
- service brakes, shifters, chain etc.
For the tyres I would like to mount a pair of Schwalbe Big Apple: do you recommend them?
Would you choose 50-559 (26 x 2.00) or 55-559 (26 x 2.15)?
I read that I should mount a rim tape to avoid spoke nipples to interact with the air tube: have you some reco on this?
thank you very much!
I plan to restore a vintage (1990) Diamond Back Apex to use as all-around bike and for commuting (when we will be allowed to return to office...)
The plan is very simple:
- change tyres
- change saddle
- service brakes, shifters, chain etc.
For the tyres I would like to mount a pair of Schwalbe Big Apple: do you recommend them?
Would you choose 50-559 (26 x 2.00) or 55-559 (26 x 2.15)?
I read that I should mount a rim tape to avoid spoke nipples to interact with the air tube: have you some reco on this?
thank you very much!
#2
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From 1997 to 2015 my main commuter was a 1997 Nishiki Blazer MTB. Then it became my snow bike and utility bike with studded snow tires in the winter. For the other seasons, three years ago I put supple 26x1.86 WTB-brand slicks on it and it transformed the bike into a super fun, fast, but heavy bike. Last fall I converted it to drop bars.
https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting...ig-bouncy.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...converted.html
The one thing I would add to your list is gearing. When I bought the bike the gearing was not high enough for high-speed cruising. That was rectified by replacing the big chainring in front with the largest that would physically fit the frame (53).
Good luck, have fun and let us know how it turns out!
https://www.bikeforums.net/commuting...ig-bouncy.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/general-c...converted.html
The one thing I would add to your list is gearing. When I bought the bike the gearing was not high enough for high-speed cruising. That was rectified by replacing the big chainring in front with the largest that would physically fit the frame (53).
Good luck, have fun and let us know how it turns out!
#3
mechanically sound
For commuting, the 2.0s are quite sufficient IMO. Couple wraps with strapping tape is my preferred rim tape(tape with filaments). Pair of sks fenders and you’ve got yourself a heck of a commuter! Best wishes
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#4
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From 1997 to 2015 my main commuter was a 1997 Nishiki Blazer MTB. Then it became my snow bike and utility bike with studded snow tires in the winter. For the other seasons, three years ago I put supple 26x1.86 WTB-brand slicks on it and it transformed the bike into a super fun, fast, but heavy bike. Last fall I converted it to drop bars.
I'm not sure I will use the bike in bad weather, but who knows?
Right now I would like to keep the bike as original as possible and to keep restoring work at a minimum.
For sure!
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Be cautious with tire width. I've got a mountain bike from that era and I find that some 2.0 tires fit and some don't, including different tread models from the same manufacturer. In my case the tight spot is between the chainstays; no idea on yours.
I'd make sure I'm in a position to install/test if you're putting on something that is pushing the limits of clearance. Sort of like trying on shoes.
I'd make sure I'm in a position to install/test if you're putting on something that is pushing the limits of clearance. Sort of like trying on shoes.
Last edited by flangehead; 07-03-20 at 08:23 AM. Reason: Clarify.
#6
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Thread Starter
Thank you for your advice, if I understand well (in a total newbie...) the "2" is the width in inches, so 5cm: if this is correct I think that being wider will not add any benefit and will affect rolling.
Can you suggest some brand of rim type?
I saw a precut Schwalbe rim tape but can't understand the sice to order (on Amazon there is no relation with the wheels size): are you suggesting to buy a roll of tape and not a precut one, right?
at the monment I don't plan to mount fenders because the idea is to use it only with good weather (then I know that weather changes...)
I saw a precut Schwalbe rim tape but can't understand the sice to order (on Amazon there is no relation with the wheels size): are you suggesting to buy a roll of tape and not a precut one, right?
at the monment I don't plan to mount fenders because the idea is to use it only with good weather (then I know that weather changes...)
#7
mechanically sound
Thank you for your advice, if I understand well (in a total newbie...) the "2" is the width in inches, so 5cm: if this is correct I think that being wider will not add any benefit and will affect rolling.
Can you suggest some brand of rim type?
I saw a precut Schwalbe rim tape but can't understand the sice to order (on Amazon there is no relation with the wheels size): are you suggesting to buy a roll of tape and not a precut one, right?
at the monment I don't plan to mount fenders because the idea is to use it only with good weather (then I know that weather changes...)
Can you suggest some brand of rim type?
I saw a precut Schwalbe rim tape but can't understand the sice to order (on Amazon there is no relation with the wheels size): are you suggesting to buy a roll of tape and not a precut one, right?
at the monment I don't plan to mount fenders because the idea is to use it only with good weather (then I know that weather changes...)
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#8
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I’d go a size smaller on the tires, personally. My MTB doubles as my commuter so it wears 2.8 knobs but if I had a dedicated commuter again it’d have 1.5 ish tires
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#9
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1.5" smooth tread or slick tires makes a huge difference in ease of riding and I find them a lot faster than 2" tires.
Cheers
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#10
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Thread Starter
- I don't know which is the minimum size I can mount on my wheels, original tyres of my Apex were pretty wide, did you mount your 1,5" tyres on regular MTB wheels?
- the second point is aesthetic: even if I want the bike to be as smoothly rolling as possible I don't want to put on tyres that don't look adequate to the overall design of the bike
#11
Senior Member
I use the Big Apple 2.15's for commuting on my 1996 GT Outpost MTB. They fit fine and there's enough clearance all around them; however, as someone else mentioned, make sure the 2.15's clear your frame.
Also, depending on how your brakes are set up, you want to be sure that if you remove your front wheel when you get to work, you have enough clearance to get it through the brake pads without deflating the tire.
Also, depending on how your brakes are set up, you want to be sure that if you remove your front wheel when you get to work, you have enough clearance to get it through the brake pads without deflating the tire.
#12
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Thread Starter
Currently I have 2,15” off-road sizes, and I think I will go for 2”.
Even if I’m not an expert I don’t think this will be a problem since it is very easy to remove the wires from the brakes arms in order to widen the gap between pads if needed.
#13
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Leave it with knobs and look for places to use it as a mountain bike on the way to work.Riding to work on the same route can get tedious. Both of these do commuting duty on a regular basis.
Untitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr
Untitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr
Untitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr
Untitled by Stuart Black, on Flickr
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#14
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Good point, I have 2 issues with "thinner" tyres:
- I don't know which is the minimum size I can mount on my wheels, original tyres of my Apex were pretty wide, did you mount your 1,5" tyres on regular MTB wheels?
- the second point is aesthetic: even if I want the bike to be as smoothly rolling as possible I don't want to put on tyres that don't look adequate to the overall design of the bike
- I don't know which is the minimum size I can mount on my wheels, original tyres of my Apex were pretty wide, did you mount your 1,5" tyres on regular MTB wheels?
- the second point is aesthetic: even if I want the bike to be as smoothly rolling as possible I don't want to put on tyres that don't look adequate to the overall design of the bike
- that's a good reason
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#15
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here's my apex set up for daily use/abuse/commutes. i've got 2" big apples and sks fenders with tons of clearance left over. if this wasn't a parts bin build and i didn't just have the 2" laying around, i would've gone for the 2.35s, which is what i suggest for you. don't listen those suggesting a wide tire doesn't roll as fast - they do, and you'll be way more comfortable than you might be on 1.5".
#16
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'95 Trek 800 Sport: started with 1.95, 2.1 just barely fits with rubbing if mildly deflated. Happily running 1.75, now, and going 1.5 on the next go round. Currently riding smooth and steady on Impact Streetpacs (Schwalbe)
FRANKENTREK
Being budget minded, thinner tires use less rubber and can cost less, ymmv....
FRANKENTREK
Being budget minded, thinner tires use less rubber and can cost less, ymmv....
#17
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I really like your bikes, especially the fact that they look "raw" i.e. without any paint (but form the photos I can't tell if it is the bare metal or a paintjob).
As a matter of fact when I will decide to invest some seriuos money into a bike I will buy a Schindelhauer, a German manufacturer of "minimal bikes" that can be bought with a raw alluminium finishing.
I can't post links to external websites since I'm a newbie, but if you don't know them I really suggest to have a look.
#18
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here's my apex set up for daily use/abuse/commutes. i've got 2" big apples and sks fenders with tons of clearance left over. if this wasn't a parts bin build and i didn't just have the 2" laying around, i would've gone for the 2.35s, which is what i suggest for you. don't listen those suggesting a wide tire doesn't roll as fast - they do, and you'll be way more comfortable than you might be on 1.5".
Being also an avid music listener and interestd in hi-fi I see a SMSL digital amplifier paired with what looks like a pair of ELAC Debut B4 or B5: how does this combo sound?
#19
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I live in Parma, in the heart of "pianura Padana" one of the flattest places on earth!
I really like your bikes, especially the fact that they look "raw" i.e. without any paint (but form the photos I can't tell if it is the bare metal or a paintjob).
As a matter of fact when I will decide to invest some seriuos money into a bike I will buy a Schindelhauer, a German manufacturer of "minimal bikes" that can be bought with a raw alluminium finishing.
I can't post links to external websites since I'm a newbie, but if you don't know them I really suggest to have a look.
I really like your bikes, especially the fact that they look "raw" i.e. without any paint (but form the photos I can't tell if it is the bare metal or a paintjob).
As a matter of fact when I will decide to invest some seriuos money into a bike I will buy a Schindelhauer, a German manufacturer of "minimal bikes" that can be bought with a raw alluminium finishing.
I can't post links to external websites since I'm a newbie, but if you don't know them I really suggest to have a look.
The bikes I posted are both titanium. It’s usually not painted because it doesn’t need it. It’s inert to most any chemical so it won’t oxidize. Unpainted it also shows off that it is titanium. You pay for the cachet so you might as well show it off.
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Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
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Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
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#20
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they're b5's. i'm casually deliberate when it comes to audio, not an audiophile or expert, but this combo is very good. they sound full, with plenty of low end - no sub required. highs are well defined, not tinny or too whispy. they'll go louder than i will ever need, without getting blowy or loosing clarity. the amp is nice, bluetooth works well, good range, no connection drops. the knob feels a little cheap though and it runs a bit hot, no cooling vents at all.
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#21
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My 98 GT MTB converted to a cargo bike with 2.15 Schwalbe Big Apples. I like the lower gearing when I have a load on the bike although that isn't as much of an issue now that its converted to e-assist. But I've not had any issues with tire clearance and it rolls pretty well (for a 100lb bike anyways). I currently commute 4 miles each way and it's 6 miles to the grocery store each week.
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#22
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My 98 GT MTB converted to a cargo bike with 2.15 Schwalbe Big Apples. I like the lower gearing when I have a load on the bike although that isn't as much of an issue now that its converted to e-assist. But I've not had any issues with tire clearance and it rolls pretty well (for a 100lb bike anyways). I currently commute 4 miles each way and it's 6 miles to the grocery store each week.
I'm convinced with the Big Apples since I don't want the tyres to look too thin in comparison with the bike.
I only have to find the best buying option here in Italy and then decide which rim tape (if any) to put on the interior of the wheels.
#23
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It's a beast and a work in progress over the years. It's a hodgepodge of different brands and parts, basically whatever I felt needed to be changed or added to make it more versatile. Because the more versatile it becomes, the less I need to drive the car to do my daily activities. And now that I can haul my mountain bike on the back I can ride the 7 or so miles to the dirt trails. The only downside to this behemoth is that it doesn't fit in or on my car so that limits it's use to my local area.
#24
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Running 26 x 1.95 on my 1987 Schwinn Impact commuter bike and I have mixed feelings. They handle comfortably in Chicago's pothole covered streets for my day to day 3-7 mile rides, though during longer rides I do feel their bulk and tread as an impediment.
#25
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My '92 RockHopper has room for 2.1" Maxxis DTHs and fenders. They're fast, supple, and grippy (judging by the gravel pinging inside my fenders).