That's the fact Jack
#1
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That's the fact Jack
Today's find at the "warehouse" 1972ish Jack Taylor unattended for years, left in an unheated storage my newest crusty critter. Campy, Stronglight, 3ttt, high flange, 5 speed, 144 bcd 175 strada, black cage pedals, a horrible Pletshcer clam rack attached with a dowel, patina everywhere, a waisted Unicantor saddle.
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#2
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Most of that will buff right out, no sweat.
Great score, another JT snatched from the jaws of death.
Great score, another JT snatched from the jaws of death.
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#3
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Loving the box lining. Nobody does that any more and nobody did it better than the Taylor brother responsible for such things did it. The film of him doing the lining freehand with a little wheeled device is a ton of fun to watch.
I'm sad the downtube deals are in bad shape, but replacements should be obtainable.
Overall, great score. Cleaning it up will likely be some work, and God only knows what it will be like getting the fixed BB cup and the freewheel off, but the result should a great bike.
I'm sad the downtube deals are in bad shape, but replacements should be obtainable.
Overall, great score. Cleaning it up will likely be some work, and God only knows what it will be like getting the fixed BB cup and the freewheel off, but the result should a great bike.
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#5
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I am such a sucker for Box Lining. Especially Jack Taylor. What is it about box lining? It is so simple, but so elegant. The same goes for the lug lining.
Anyway, I have to shake off my distraction. Nice find. Looking forward to seeing how it cleans up.
Anyway, I have to shake off my distraction. Nice find. Looking forward to seeing how it cleans up.
#6
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Welcome to the Taylor Owners Club What a fine machine! Tour of Britain, the all-rounder, eh? Every bit as good as an Alex Singer audax bike, but you probably picked it up for a song.
The Taylors commonly marked the rear dropouts with serial numbers. The left side one, I think. You may want to check there, if you haven't already found the serial and that's how you're getting the date.
Color would be light blue flambouyant, I suppose. Jack himself did all the paint.
If you haven't checked out the Blackbirdsf site, it is the place to go for more Taylor obscura and info. You may be able to figure out the year. Taylor serials were relatively ordinal and straightforward.
If you can find a serial, Mike Thompson (meauxtown at yahoo dot com) will find you the build sheet. At least he did for me!
Sorry for the partial copypasta from the other Taylor thread going on right now. Just wanted to make sure you know what to do!
The Taylors commonly marked the rear dropouts with serial numbers. The left side one, I think. You may want to check there, if you haven't already found the serial and that's how you're getting the date.
Color would be light blue flambouyant, I suppose. Jack himself did all the paint.
If you haven't checked out the Blackbirdsf site, it is the place to go for more Taylor obscura and info. You may be able to figure out the year. Taylor serials were relatively ordinal and straightforward.
If you can find a serial, Mike Thompson (meauxtown at yahoo dot com) will find you the build sheet. At least he did for me!
Sorry for the partial copypasta from the other Taylor thread going on right now. Just wanted to make sure you know what to do!
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
#7
Senior Member
-----
also owned a ToB from this annum
it were yeller with red d-box
had originally been sold by Stone's Bicycles of Alameda, California
was surprised how long was the W/B, even at this relatively late date
a customer sold/traded it to me
decided to build it up all Zeus as a project
would work on it from time to time as me time demands permitted
got it close to ready when a customer came though who wanted to purchase it so i sold it without ever riding the beast
couple months later customer came back wanting to sell/trade it back to me; had decided he wanted a Raleigh...or a mountain bike; one of those serial offender bikies who had to have a certain marque...but only for the present fortnight...then it was on to something else again
declined, so never got to ride me ToB
-----
also owned a ToB from this annum
it were yeller with red d-box
had originally been sold by Stone's Bicycles of Alameda, California
was surprised how long was the W/B, even at this relatively late date
a customer sold/traded it to me
decided to build it up all Zeus as a project
would work on it from time to time as me time demands permitted
got it close to ready when a customer came though who wanted to purchase it so i sold it without ever riding the beast
couple months later customer came back wanting to sell/trade it back to me; had decided he wanted a Raleigh...or a mountain bike; one of those serial offender bikies who had to have a certain marque...but only for the present fortnight...then it was on to something else again
declined, so never got to ride me ToB
-----
#8
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I gotta start hanging around barns more often. Apparently that's where all the cool finds are.
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If someone tells you that you have enough bicycles and you don't need any more, stop talking to them. You don't need that kind of negativity in your life.
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#10
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#11
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#12
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#13
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as others have noted, it's using pinstriping to create a box (or two overlapping boxes) on the frame tubes.
Some examples that are in a bit better shape....
the seat lug area....
the top tube, showing the complete boxes.....
this shot shows how many of the tubes were adorned with the box lining....
other frame builders sometime copy this technique to add a bit of flair to a classic-inspired frame....
Steve in Peoria
Some examples that are in a bit better shape....
the seat lug area....
the top tube, showing the complete boxes.....
this shot shows how many of the tubes were adorned with the box lining....
other frame builders sometime copy this technique to add a bit of flair to a classic-inspired frame....
Steve in Peoria
#14
seńor miembro
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That's the fact, jack!
#15
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Thread Starter
So far mostly peaceful disassemblely.
The front brake caliper's pivot bolt was bent severely, and the adjuster arm has some wonk. I've addressed the bolt, the arm will wait. The rear derailleur came off just fine, the front derailleur was a different story. The fd was completely encrusted at the hinge, but only on the body not the clamp.
That needed a pry to open.
The driveside crank had no issues on removal, the cap and bolt all good. The NDS not so good I lubed, tried heat, the cap stripped of the 5mm use. I'll come back to that with my drill and try a pin wrench. Dang!
I cleaned up the hubs, pretty good, the spin very happily. The front is 4x, the rear has been restrung to 3x. The rear also has some pitting, oh well. Still feeling squirrelly I went to the freewheel. Not a good idea, that needs some more penetrating time. The TRIMO was not enough and I was trying to hard, I'll come circle back on that.
youch!
The next check, the stem. Yeah, it's stuck. The headset lock nut was finger tight. I'm glad I didn't have to fight that loose. I started the soak last night.
Im also trying a different method for the stem removal. Holding the front wheel was going to be nowhere near stable enough. So I'm going to try the J-clamp. The one end on the fork crown and the other is in straddle of the downtube.
Am I crazy? Anybody else hear banjos?
The front brake caliper's pivot bolt was bent severely, and the adjuster arm has some wonk. I've addressed the bolt, the arm will wait. The rear derailleur came off just fine, the front derailleur was a different story. The fd was completely encrusted at the hinge, but only on the body not the clamp.
That needed a pry to open.
The driveside crank had no issues on removal, the cap and bolt all good. The NDS not so good I lubed, tried heat, the cap stripped of the 5mm use. I'll come back to that with my drill and try a pin wrench. Dang!
I cleaned up the hubs, pretty good, the spin very happily. The front is 4x, the rear has been restrung to 3x. The rear also has some pitting, oh well. Still feeling squirrelly I went to the freewheel. Not a good idea, that needs some more penetrating time. The TRIMO was not enough and I was trying to hard, I'll come circle back on that.
youch!
The next check, the stem. Yeah, it's stuck. The headset lock nut was finger tight. I'm glad I didn't have to fight that loose. I started the soak last night.
Im also trying a different method for the stem removal. Holding the front wheel was going to be nowhere near stable enough. So I'm going to try the J-clamp. The one end on the fork crown and the other is in straddle of the downtube.
Am I crazy? Anybody else hear banjos?
#16
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sweet!!!! I got a turn out it! I need a break that did a number on my upper back.
Oh I just noticed an oil port.
ah buggers, I just can't get a grip of things.
Oh I just noticed an oil port.
ah buggers, I just can't get a grip of things.
Last edited by Mr. 66; 09-12-21 at 04:53 PM.
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#17
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Thread Starter
Mostly peaceful...
Let me catch my breath, no the seatpost is not stuck lol. I was able to get it to break free by placing the frame on the ground stepping on the saddle grabbing the frame at the cable guide area for leverage being careful with the rear end off a step. It pulled out with a few tugs after that.
The damm dust cap is still an issue.
#18
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Mostly peaceful...
Let me catch my breath, no the seatpost is not stuck lol. I was able to get it to break free by placing the frame on the ground stepping on the saddle grabbing the frame at the cable guide area for leverage being careful with the rear end off a step. It pulled out with a few tugs after that.
The damm dust cap is still an issue.
Or just use a burr or Dremel mini cut-off wheel and hack it out of there.
If you have a compressor (you do have a compressor don't you), this can work miracles.
https://www.google.com/search?q=harb...fox-b-1&pccc=1
#19
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The Jack Taylor continues to give Mr. 66 trouble, but that is why many bikes, of all ranks, end up at Bike Works. I've sort of adopted a saying with regard to this: They get donated for some reason. If anyone is game to take in a neglected bike of notoriety, it's John. Pristine bikes change hands as they should, but someone has to patrol the (occasional) rougher ranks of extant bikes/frames and be the caretaker of them. Ride the steel, not the paint or patina. It's not for everyone, and certainly 99% of the time not me, because I like princess-level paint if I can help it. At the end of the day, it's a darn JT and even in it's non-pristine state, it still remains a bike more than worthy of care and saving. This one should be a very good bike.
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#20
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Soak and firmly tap with a small piece of aluminum plate and small hammer, maybe heat too, then drive a torx bit in the hole, biggest one you can get in there and use as big a wrench or ratchet and 1/4 inch socket as you can.
Or just use a burr or Dremel mini cut-off wheel and hack it out of there.
If you have a compressor (you do have a compressor don't you), this can work miracles.
https://www.google.com/search?q=harb...fox-b-1&pccc=1
Or just use a burr or Dremel mini cut-off wheel and hack it out of there.
If you have a compressor (you do have a compressor don't you), this can work miracles.
https://www.google.com/search?q=harb...fox-b-1&pccc=1
Feable, just a feable attempt. I made the holes just a little larger for the screws to fit. Nah, its encrusted good in there. I was successful in bending the crap out of a perfect chrome window pull.
Next, I borrowed a Dremel from the RoS and cut a slot hoping to use a large flat driver. The big buzzer went off. Fail.
In thinking of the next attempt, I will drill the holes adjacent to the the bolt side to eat the side of cap from the insides and will pry and pull.
Since the Dremel was here at the 66 I took the opportunity to cut a dropout adjuster for dropout thread cleaner, a little hitch on the Taylor NDS but it will fine with a little more attention.
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#21
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Thread Starter
The Jack Taylor continues to give Mr. 66 trouble, but that is why many bikes, of all ranks, end up at Bike Works. I've sort of adopted a saying with regard to this: They get donated for some reason. If anyone is game to take in a neglected bike of notoriety, it's John. Pristine bikes change hands as they should, but someone has to patrol the (occasional) rougher ranks of extant bikes/frames and be the caretaker of them. Ride the steel, not the paint or patina. It's not for everyone, and certainly 99% of the time not me, because I like princess-level paint if I can help it. At the end of the day, it's a darn JT and even in it's non-pristine state, it still remains a bike more than worthy of care and saving. This one should be a very good bike.
You have mentioned paint, I have been thinking of repaint. Of course the devil is in the details 👹. I definitely want the box lining. Actually box lining is not difficult. I think Mr. Taylor used a paint pen on roller wheels, similar to a Rapidiogragh pen that used to be used in graphic arts production. If, or when I should say do, I repaint I won't be using that or a pinstripe brush. I will use the same method as the white stripes of the late 60's Chevys.
After primer is laid the white(stripe) color is painted, masking tape is then applied in the pattern desired and the color of choice is painted. The tape is then pulled revealing the linework. Chevy would then lay multiple layers of clear and wetsand the transition levels smoothly.
True it won't have the hand flow areas of line thick and thin, it would be more consistent and sharper than the original.
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#22
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Posts: 2,089
Bikes: Ron Cooper touring, 1959 Jack Taylor 650b ladyback touring tandem, Vitus 979, Joe Bell painted Claud Butler Dalesman, Colin Laing curved tube tandem, heavily-Dilberted 1982 Trek 6xx, René Herse tandem
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The Taylors originally had a paint guy who would do box lining with a brush. He either retired or died at some point, and Jack took over the box lining, using the roller of which you speak. I don't know exactly when the transition occurred, but you can probably tell if yours was done with a brush or a roller. Jack was the paint guy, but Norman mostly did the brazing and Ken was wheelbuilder and assembler.
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Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
Owner & co-founder, Cycles René Hubris. Unfortunately attaching questionable braze-ons to perfectly good frames since about 2015. With style.
#23
Senior Member
Thread Starter
The Taylors originally had a paint guy who would do box lining with a brush. He either retired or died at some point, and Jack took over the box lining, using the roller of which you speak. I don't know exactly when the transition occurred, but you can probably tell if yours was done with a brush or a roller. Jack was the paint guy, but Norman mostly did the brazing and Ken was wheelbuilder and assembler.
I was successful in drilling the dust cap with holes adjacent to the bb bolt without damaging the crank thread, and was able to remove the bolt. That was a stiff going.
The drive side cup removes very easily. The NDS not so well. The cups and spindle are in great condition thought.
The pin wrench broke trying to remove the NDS. I think I have another, in the meantime the cup is having a PB soaking.
#24
feros ferio
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That crank dust cap certainly was Jacked up. Great machine, though.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
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#25
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If you have a compressor (you do have a compressor don't you), this can work miracles.
https://www.google.com/search?q=harb...fox-b-1&pccc=1
https://www.google.com/search?q=harb...fox-b-1&pccc=1
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