Post your Schwinn Voyageur!
#501
Senior Member
The cranks are Shimano FC-B124, correct? Those are spec'd for 121.5 asymmetrical BB, so a modern symmetrical 124 MIGHT do the trick if you have a decent amount of clearance between the stay and inner ring. If it's pretty tight already, I'd go with a 127. I've used a couple of IRD and a couple of Velo Orange bottom brackets as replacements and both have worked great. About the same price and quality as I remember.
Hm, beicster in another thread mentioned his 85 takes a 127.5, so I'm thinking I will go with a close to that as I can find. Need to just pull it out and measure though. I imagine my 86 is the same though.
#503
Senior Member
Likes For polymorphself:
#504
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: SE Wisconsin
Posts: 776
Bikes: Trek 970, Bianchi Volpe,Casati
Liked 123 Times
in
87 Posts
Emerald green
I have a minty original forest green one, still needs to be overhauled,
an 89 emerald green came up for sale , minty, not too original , but good newer componants , do I add to my collection.? I have a grey Passage also. 🤔
an 89 emerald green came up for sale , minty, not too original , but good newer componants , do I add to my collection.? I have a grey Passage also. 🤔
Last edited by rossiny; 06-25-22 at 11:01 PM.
Likes For rossiny:
#505
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,467
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
Liked 2,105 Times
in
1,021 Posts
Just picked this '85 Voyageur SP (my first Voyageur in a long line of Schwinns, and a SP, which I'd really hoped for) and am absolutely enamored with it! Bike is MINT, albeit dusty (doesn't show in the photo), and completely stock save for the brake pads and tires (Specialized Transition 27 x 1 1/4" that measure...25.5mm ). This photo was on the test ride after angling the bars and adjusting the saddle height to the max point in the 27.2mm-not-26.6mm-like-the-catalog-says seatpost. Afterwards I swapped to a different seatpost to get the extra 1/2" height I needed, as well as threw on a new chain to deal with some grabbing-skipping. Turns out the 3rd and 2nd largest cogs are worn (2nd is the worst), though the new chain did help noticeably. The bike spins easily and smoothly. Even over crappy streets with freaking 25mm tires, it comports itself very well. I thought the heavy rims/wheels would be to its detriment, especially after riding and knowing the benefits of light 700C wheels and tires, but this bike is very much "as one". I have new tires coming for it, and I already have new brake hoods. The whole thing needs a good cleaning and polishing, which I will do piece-by-piece,. It's going to glow even more than it already does!
Likes For RiddleOfSteel:
Likes For rossiny:
#507
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,467
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
Liked 2,105 Times
in
1,021 Posts
Thanks! Finding a SP model of any sort--Voyageur or Super Sport--is really difficult. One of those in my size? Yeah, good luck! A black/gold '83 Super Sport SP is a dream bike of mine as they came in 25.5" size (64-65cm depending on how generous Schwinn feels about an odd size like that). One of the weird things about this VSP, especially given the year, is that its rear axle spacing is just 120mm. That explains the 5-speed FW, but man, the same year Peloton (which I've owned before) had a 7-speed FW! I never thought I'd ever say, "I need to get a new (to me) 5-speed freewheel", but...I need to get a new 5-speed freewheel.
#508
Congrats on finding a tall one; looks great!
__________________
72 Fuji Finest 72+76 Super Course, 74 P-10+ 79 Tandem Paramounts, 84 Raleigh Alyeska, 84 Voyageur SP, 85 Miyata Sport 10 mixte and a queue
72 Fuji Finest 72+76 Super Course, 74 P-10+ 79 Tandem Paramounts, 84 Raleigh Alyeska, 84 Voyageur SP, 85 Miyata Sport 10 mixte and a queue
Likes For Schreck83:
#509
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,467
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
Liked 2,105 Times
in
1,021 Posts
When I took the rear wheel out, I noticed a healthy amount of axle showing on each side, evenly. Healthy enough to allow 3mm to be put on either side to bump it to 126mm. The outer lock nut on the drive side does not protrude much from the face of the FW, which was another thing I found odd. The wheel slots in and out of the dropouts just fine. Dropout spacing without wheel is 121mm.
So, onto the frame--is there anything odd with that? Ah, yes, there is! The drive side seat stay is essentially dead straight along its outer edge when I put my metal ruler to it--no funny business there. Check the non-drive side seat stay: whoa. From the brake bridge to the dropout, the outer edge of the tube deviates in a pretty obvious fashion...to the tune of 5mm at the dropout. Looks like we have our missing spacing!
Thank you for asking me to essentially do some more digging. I'll put some string (or similar) to further corroborate things, but the angled in seat stay and dropout say plenty already. There is always at least one "Why did they do that?" / "What the heck happened here?" sort of thing that pretty much every bike that is donated to Bike Works has. My Voyageur has two: 120 grit sandpaper to the rear wheel brake tracks (thankfully hard to feel), and now the reduced spacing. The great news on the spacing is that now I can correct it and also have room for a 6-speed FW to replace the worn 5-speed. I will be checking the dish to see if there was even removal of spacers or if they just took from the drive side or something.
#510
Senior Member
The regular variant Voyageur came with 120 spacing in 1985. Mine came with the original wheelset and freewheel so I know it was 120.
__________________
Andy
Andy
Likes For beicster:
#511
Car free since 2018
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 703
Bikes: Mostly japanese ones
Liked 279 Times
in
137 Posts
Anybody know if the mid fork mounts on the 88ish Voyageur is m5 or something else? Is it even threaded at all? I can push an m5 bolt straight through and I can't seem to feel any threads. I don't know if it's just stripped or something, or if they take a different sized bolt?
#512
Full Member
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: NYC
Posts: 398
Bikes: '72 Raleigh Super Course; '90 Cannondale ST1000; 2022 Cannondale Topstone 2L
Liked 371 Times
in
165 Posts
I believe by that point they were unthreaded thru-fork bolt holes. You would need to run a bolt through the hole and use a nut on the other side.
Likes For Rooney:
#513
Senior Member
Anybody know if the mid fork mounts on the 88ish Voyageur is m5 or something else? Is it even threaded at all? I can push an m5 bolt straight through and I can't seem to feel any threads. I don't know if it's just stripped or something, or if they take a different sized bolt?
__________________
Andy
Andy
#514
Car free since 2018
Join Date: Aug 2017
Location: Vancouver, BC
Posts: 703
Bikes: Mostly japanese ones
Liked 279 Times
in
137 Posts
Anybody know what advantage it would be to have this style of mid fork mounts?
#515
Twinsies!
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Likes For rccardr:
#516
Senior Member
#517
Senior Member
Blackburn made a set of racks designed to be mounted on those through holes. I don't know if it is an advantage, but the rack connects on both sides. Maybe it gives it more stability. I have a set at my house and can post a picture later if you are interested.
__________________
Andy
Andy
#518
Full Member
Join Date: Jun 2018
Location: Southwest Ohio
Posts: 389
Bikes: Wow, where to start? A collection of 1980's and early 90's road, touring, and MTBs from the likes of Trek, Schwinn, Cannondale, Fuji, Miyata, Univega, Panasonic, and GT. It has gotten rather out of control.
Liked 173 Times
in
78 Posts
#520
This is actually my third ‘87 Voyageur. The first one was also red and like new, barely ridden by the original owner. Really liked it but hated the squealing and poorly performing cantilever brakes, despite advice from experts and much labor and money spent. So, that one got sold. Second one was a basket case frameset that a MN BF member picked up for me; it was shipped out to Gugie in Oregon, who performed his magic butchery and turned it into a pretty decent 650b Eroica/gravel bike/tourer named Schwinderella. Sadly, I fell under the spell of Mavic centerpull post mounted brakes for that build, which also failed to impress me with their braking power, so that one also got sold.
Couple of years ago started looking for another low mileage one in red, figuring that with my advanced age and improved mechanical knowledge, I’d be able to make the darn thing stop. This one showed up on CL in Berkely CA the same weekend I arrived in SFO for Eroica. Picking it up was a bit of a story for another time, but it was every bit the low mileage Voyageur represented by the seller, who also boxed it up for me to ship back to VA.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
#521
Those are nutted Tektro 539’s, which nestle nicely amongst the canti mounts. Great for 27” wheels, just a touch shy of what would be needed for a 700c conversion. If I go that route will use Tektro 559’s. Paired with the Shimano BL-R400 SLR levers, they stop the bike quite nicely. At some point I’ll probably cut off the old mounts, sand smooth the fork and stays, and touch up the paint. Found a perfect Duplicolor match, so no need for an entire respray.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Likes For rccardr:
#522
Senior Member
True that. See above response regarding my opinion of stock Voyageur braking systems. Maybe I just ride at a higher velocity than they were designed to impede?
Those are nutted Tektro 539’s, which nestle nicely amongst the canti mounts. Great for 27” wheels, just a touch shy of what would be needed for a 700c conversion. If I go that route will use Tektro 559’s. Paired with the Shimano BL-R400 SLR levers, they stop the bike quite nicely. At some point I’ll probably cut off the old mounts, sand smooth the fork and stays, and touch up the paint. Found a perfect Duplicolor match, so no need for an entire respray.
Those are nutted Tektro 539’s, which nestle nicely amongst the canti mounts. Great for 27” wheels, just a touch shy of what would be needed for a 700c conversion. If I go that route will use Tektro 559’s. Paired with the Shimano BL-R400 SLR levers, they stop the bike quite nicely. At some point I’ll probably cut off the old mounts, sand smooth the fork and stays, and touch up the paint. Found a perfect Duplicolor match, so no need for an entire respray.
__________________
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
2014 Cannondale SuperSix EVO 2
2019 Salsa Warbird
#523
Oh, please.
One ride with dual pivot calipers and she’ll be asking why you’re making her risk her life with canti’s.
Seriously, it’s that much of a difference.
One ride with dual pivot calipers and she’ll be asking why you’re making her risk her life with canti’s.
Seriously, it’s that much of a difference.
__________________
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Hard at work in the Secret Underground Laboratory...
Likes For rccardr:
#524
Master Parts Rearranger
Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Portlandia's Kuiper Belt, OR
Posts: 4,467
Bikes: 1982 Trek 720 - 1984 Trek 620 - 1989 OS Schwinn Paramount
Liked 2,105 Times
in
1,021 Posts
That being said...dual pivots for life. I love the look of cantis, and the romanticism of their time prior to advancements in braking technology. Super classy. Also, SUPER fidgety to set up. I do fine, but V-brakes are easier to set up and clamp like crazy. Sadly, canti and V-brakes are brought down by designed-in play between the brake arms and the posts. I don't understand--that's where all the vibration and howling comes from, as it allows the pad to bind up and release and then do so at frequency under braking. Drives me up the wall. Single and dual pivot calipers have zero slop and guess what? They're quiet! And they stop easily, quickly, and with low hand effort. My 720 is my accidental grail keeper amaze-balls bike. Tektro R200 brake levers (love the Campy copy shape) working Tektro R737 standard reach calipers. Super easy to set up, and all the confidence in the world in them. And they're gorgeous.
Still, my Voyageur SP ('cause we gotta keep this on topic) with it's glowing polished, well, everything, cannot be ignored and it does snag the ol' eyes with its exquisite looks:
New 27.2 seatpost, new 110mm Technomic stem, Noodle bars, BL L331 brake levers, Brooks synthetic bar tape, Surly rear cable stop, Swift 27 x 1 3/8" tires, 'Phil Wood' 6903 cartridge BB bearings, spread rear triangle, widened rear axle, Suntour Comp 14-30t FW, and all new consumables. The Fizik Aliante R5 saddle is great, but is now on my 720.
Last edited by RiddleOfSteel; 09-22-22 at 10:09 PM.
#525
Full Member
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Little Rock, AR
Posts: 276
Bikes: Lots of Schwinns
Liked 251 Times
in
115 Posts
Somehow I get my Voyageur SP to haul down decently (Kool Stop pads help for sure), but that is not without considerable hand effort thanks to the over-enthusiastic canti arm springs. I switched to gen 1 SLR levers--cheap ones, but ones that are the exact shape and profile of my much-loved Dura-Ace 7402 levers. I had to wet sand and polish them to the moon, but the results are spectacular and exactly what I was going for, including being much more ergonomic. Helps when working from the hoods on the 15% grade descents for blocks and blocks to get off the hill I live on.
That being said...dual pivots for life. I love the look of cantis, and the romanticism of their time prior to advancements in braking technology. Super classy. Also, SUPER fidgety to set up. I do fine, but V-brakes are easier to set up and clamp like crazy. Sadly, canti and V-brakes are brought down by designed-in play between the brake arms and the posts. I don't understand--that's where all the vibration and howling comes from, as it allows the pad to bind up and release and then do so at frequency under braking. Drives me up the wall. Single and dual pivot calipers have zero slop and guess what? They're quiet! And they stop easily, quickly, and with low hand effort. My 720 is my accidental grail keeper amaze-balls bike. Tektro R200 brake levers (love the Campy copy shape) working Tektro R737 standard reach calipers. Super easy to set up, and all the confidence in the world in them. And they're gorgeous.
Still, my Voyageur SP ('cause we gotta keep this on topic) with it's glowing polished, well, everything, cannot be ignored and it does snag the ol' eyes with its exquisite looks:
New 27.2 seatpost, new 110mm Technomic stem, Noodle bars, BL L331 brake levers, Brooks synthetic bar tape, Surly rear cable stop, Swift 27 x 1 3/8" tires, 'Phil Wood' 6903 cartridge BB bearings, spread rear triangle, widened rear axle, Suntour Comp 14-30t FW, and all new consumables. The Fizik Aliante R5 saddle is great, but is now on my 720.
That being said...dual pivots for life. I love the look of cantis, and the romanticism of their time prior to advancements in braking technology. Super classy. Also, SUPER fidgety to set up. I do fine, but V-brakes are easier to set up and clamp like crazy. Sadly, canti and V-brakes are brought down by designed-in play between the brake arms and the posts. I don't understand--that's where all the vibration and howling comes from, as it allows the pad to bind up and release and then do so at frequency under braking. Drives me up the wall. Single and dual pivot calipers have zero slop and guess what? They're quiet! And they stop easily, quickly, and with low hand effort. My 720 is my accidental grail keeper amaze-balls bike. Tektro R200 brake levers (love the Campy copy shape) working Tektro R737 standard reach calipers. Super easy to set up, and all the confidence in the world in them. And they're gorgeous.
Still, my Voyageur SP ('cause we gotta keep this on topic) with it's glowing polished, well, everything, cannot be ignored and it does snag the ol' eyes with its exquisite looks:
New 27.2 seatpost, new 110mm Technomic stem, Noodle bars, BL L331 brake levers, Brooks synthetic bar tape, Surly rear cable stop, Swift 27 x 1 3/8" tires, 'Phil Wood' 6903 cartridge BB bearings, spread rear triangle, widened rear axle, Suntour Comp 14-30t FW, and all new consumables. The Fizik Aliante R5 saddle is great, but is now on my 720.
my mechanic skills are limited or maybe it’s patience . Especially when it comes to setting up cants that were spaced for 27” wheels with a modem 700 build. I have followed the Kool Stop advice in this thread for my voyagers. Better. But still not great for me. I happen to have some tektro 559’s on hand. Will give those a go. The unused canti posts may bother. But not as much as being hesitant to build the bike cause I don’t like setting them Up.
coming soon- new old stock 1985 voyager frame built up as either. 50/34 or 1x 10 speed
Likes For justcynn: