Shimano RD Cable Keeps Fraying Inside Shifter
#1
Should Be More Popular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,185
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 561 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22711 Post(s)
Liked 9,070 Times
in
4,213 Posts
Shimano RD Cable Keeps Fraying Inside Shifter
I think I may be cursed. I have been running Ultegra 6700 on my two road bikes for the past decade. About every 2000-2500 miles, the rear shifting gets fiddly and it won't shift to the smaller 2 or 3 cogs in back, and the cause is ALWAYS a frayed shifter cable. I had thought initially I had a "defective" shifter but when I got my Roubaix it had the same problem. I even replaced the shifters when they were worn, a few years back, but the problem persists.
Fast forward to 2022, I recently put on a full Ultegra R8000 groupset on my main road bike. It works like a dream. I have about 2200 miles on it, and today the SAME THING happened.
I am guessing at this point it's not necessarily a design defect from Shimano, but either I am shifting way more than a typical user, or possibly somehow I am not installing the cable correctly. I always use Shimano parts and am pretty sure I am doing everything right.
Other than jump to electronic shifting, any suggestions or comments??
See pic below of today's cable once I extricated it.
Fast forward to 2022, I recently put on a full Ultegra R8000 groupset on my main road bike. It works like a dream. I have about 2200 miles on it, and today the SAME THING happened.
I am guessing at this point it's not necessarily a design defect from Shimano, but either I am shifting way more than a typical user, or possibly somehow I am not installing the cable correctly. I always use Shimano parts and am pretty sure I am doing everything right.
Other than jump to electronic shifting, any suggestions or comments??
See pic below of today's cable once I extricated it.
#2
I'm good to go!
Join Date: Jul 2017
Location: Mississippi
Posts: 15,224
Bikes: Tarmac Disc Comp Di2 - 2020
Mentioned: 51 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6330 Post(s)
Liked 4,927 Times
in
3,390 Posts
Wasn't that what ST-6700 STI's were known for? Seems like there was one particular model around that time period that had more of that issue than others.
But you say this happened with your newer ST-R8000 after just a few thousand. Hmmmmm...
Might it be that the lower limits of your rear DR's are set to where you have to pull it tight against the stop and that's putting some extra stress on the cable in the STI? IMO, DR's shouldn't have to bump against their limits. Limits are just there to keep them from going too far as a last resort when other stuff has gotten out of whack.
But you say this happened with your newer ST-R8000 after just a few thousand. Hmmmmm...
Might it be that the lower limits of your rear DR's are set to where you have to pull it tight against the stop and that's putting some extra stress on the cable in the STI? IMO, DR's shouldn't have to bump against their limits. Limits are just there to keep them from going too far as a last resort when other stuff has gotten out of whack.
#3
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,146
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4233 Post(s)
Liked 3,950 Times
in
2,352 Posts
Shimano has claimed a service recommendation for a cable replacement about every 1000 miles. So getting double that mileage...
This issue has been known since the previous exposed shift cable versions of their road STI. Some riders seem to have far quicker fraying that others do. We have one customer who years back told me to just replace his shift cables every time he has his bikes serviced, he was waiting till year's end before for this. Now it's about twice a year on his two primary bikes. (He rides about 6,000 miles a year in fairly hilly areas and in any weather).
My suggestion is to make that value judgement between no longer using Shimano road STI levers (they really want you to go DI2) or just replace the cables before 2,000 miles. You can do your own math. Andy
This issue has been known since the previous exposed shift cable versions of their road STI. Some riders seem to have far quicker fraying that others do. We have one customer who years back told me to just replace his shift cables every time he has his bikes serviced, he was waiting till year's end before for this. Now it's about twice a year on his two primary bikes. (He rides about 6,000 miles a year in fairly hilly areas and in any weather).
My suggestion is to make that value judgement between no longer using Shimano road STI levers (they really want you to go DI2) or just replace the cables before 2,000 miles. You can do your own math. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 3,724
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 860 Post(s)
Liked 1,099 Times
in
767 Posts
I am trying out these "Alligator- Superior Shine Slick Stainless" cables. Alligator Shift or Brake Cable Superior Shine Slick Stainless fit Shimano Sram | eBay They have thinner but more strands to fit Shimano and Jagwire housing and I'm hoping this may help them last longer. I only have about 2,500 miles on them now for my 6600 shifters and usually get 4-6K miles from the S or J brands so the jury is still out. Might be worth a try with yours. Shop around as prices have gone up a bit from this seller.
Last edited by Crankycrank; 11-05-22 at 01:34 PM.
Likes For Crankycrank:
#5
Droid on a mission
Join Date: May 2018
Location: Palm Coast, FL
Posts: 1,011
Bikes: Diamondback Wildwood Classic
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 320 Post(s)
Liked 283 Times
in
197 Posts
I think I may be cursed. I have been running Ultegra 6700 on my two road bikes for the past decade. About every 2000-2500 miles, the rear shifting gets fiddly and it won't shift to the smaller 2 or 3 cogs in back, and the cause is ALWAYS a frayed shifter cable. I had thought initially I had a "defective" shifter but when I got my Roubaix it had the same problem. I even replaced the shifters when they were worn, a few years back, but the problem persists.
Fast forward to 2022, I recently put on a full Ultegra R8000 groupset on my main road bike. It works like a dream. I have about 2200 miles on it, and today the SAME THING happened.
I am guessing at this point it's not necessarily a design defect from Shimano, but either I am shifting way more than a typical user, or possibly somehow I am not installing the cable correctly. I always use Shimano parts and am pretty sure I am doing everything right.
Other than jump to electronic shifting, any suggestions or comments??
See pic below of today's cable once I extricated it.
Fast forward to 2022, I recently put on a full Ultegra R8000 groupset on my main road bike. It works like a dream. I have about 2200 miles on it, and today the SAME THING happened.
I am guessing at this point it's not necessarily a design defect from Shimano, but either I am shifting way more than a typical user, or possibly somehow I am not installing the cable correctly. I always use Shimano parts and am pretty sure I am doing everything right.
Other than jump to electronic shifting, any suggestions or comments??
See pic below of today's cable once I extricated it.
__________________
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
JoeTBM (The Bike Man) - I'm a black & white type of guy, the only gray in my life is the hair on my head
www.TheBikeMenOfFlaglerCounty.com
#6
Should Be More Popular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,185
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 561 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22711 Post(s)
Liked 9,070 Times
in
4,213 Posts
Are they Teflon coated cable or do you just grease the hell out of them? You did not mention if you have ever changed the housings. I hope you are using lined housings. for the lower resistance factor. Sorry but that is just nasty looking, surprised you were able to get it out without cutting it.
Likes For datlas:
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2017
Posts: 8,047
Mentioned: 42 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7089 Post(s)
Liked 11,208 Times
in
4,785 Posts
Note that the OP is in PA, which is where I was living until recently. If his/her terrain is like mine was, there is a LOT of shifting. I broke rear cables so often that I considered switching to downtube shifters. But I moved to the Great Plains instead.
#8
Should Be More Popular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,185
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 561 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22711 Post(s)
Liked 9,070 Times
in
4,213 Posts
#9
Senior Member
They just do that, like all of them. Really bad cable routing, or full housing that requires more effort will speed it up. I put the Shimano special housing grease on everything, even the new stuff that says not to. Grease it and don't use the teflon cable, they are worse when the coating frays and falls apart.
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2013
Location: Mich
Posts: 7,525
Bikes: RSO E-tire dropper fixie brifter
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6 Post(s)
Liked 3,092 Times
in
1,973 Posts
I'm aFRAYed that you'll either need to stock up on cables or go E shift. I am all for staying with the mech cable.
__________________
-Oh Hey!
-Oh Hey!
#11
Just Pedaling
Join Date: Oct 2021
Location: US West Coast
Posts: 1,068
Bikes: YEP!
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 352 Post(s)
Liked 568 Times
in
375 Posts
I am trying out these "Alligator- Superior Shine Slick Stainless" cables. Alligator Shift or Brake Cable Superior Shine Slick Stainless fit Shimano Sram | eBay They have thinner but more strands to fit Shimano and Jagwire housing and I'm hoping this may help them last longer. I only have about 2,500 miles on them now for my 6600 shifters and usually get 3-6K miles from the S or J brands so the jury is still out. Might be worth a try with yours. Shop around as prices have gone up a bit from this seller.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Rochester, NY
Posts: 18,146
Bikes: Stewart S&S coupled sport tourer, Stewart Sunday light, Stewart Commuting, Stewart Touring, Co Motion Tandem, Stewart 3-Spd, Stewart Track, Fuji Finest, Mongoose Tomac ATB, GT Bravado ATB, JCP Folder, Stewart 650B ATB
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4233 Post(s)
Liked 3,950 Times
in
2,352 Posts
This issue is not exclusive to modern STI shifters. I've had a couple of, personal, Campy Ergo set ups do the same fraying just below the head. A couple of years ago i replaced new Ergo levers on a customer's bike where this happened. Too bad "the other shop" had installed Shimano cables and the not quite fully broken cable (more, it's head) never was able to be removed, hence the new levers. I've replaced more than a few bar ended and DT located friction shifter cables over the years. You'd be surprised how often a cable's condition is not even thought about by many riders. But the Shimano STI levers (both generations of cable routing) really take the cake on this issue. Andy
__________________
AndrewRStewart
AndrewRStewart
Likes For Andrew R Stewart:
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
I'm amazed you've had this happen multiple times and haven't learned from it. You know how Einstein described insanity right?
Likes For cxwrench:
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Roswell, GA
Posts: 8,320
Bikes: '93 Trek 750, '92 Schwinn Crisscross, '93 Mongoose Alta
Mentioned: 30 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1439 Post(s)
Liked 1,094 Times
in
724 Posts
This is the price we pay for that slick under-bar-tape cable routing, I'm afraid.
#15
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
#17
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Chapel Hill NC
Posts: 1,683
Bikes: 2000 Litespeed Vortex Chorus 10, 1995 DeBernardi Cromor S/S
Mentioned: 4 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 645 Post(s)
Liked 797 Times
in
446 Posts
This issue is not exclusive to modern STI shifters. I've had a couple of, personal, Campy Ergo set ups do the same fraying just below the head. A couple of years ago i replaced new Ergo levers on a customer's bike where this happened. Too bad "the other shop" had installed Shimano cables and the not quite fully broken cable (more, it's head) never was able to be removed, hence the new levers. I've replaced more than a few bar ended and DT located friction shifter cables over the years. You'd be surprised how often a cable's condition is not even thought about by many riders. But the Shimano STI levers (both generations of cable routing) really take the cake on this issue. Andy
#18
Should Be More Popular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,185
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 561 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22711 Post(s)
Liked 9,070 Times
in
4,213 Posts
I was hoping it would be less of a problem with the latest mechanical Ultegra groupset, which I just installed on the bike this spring. Sadly, it's still a problem.
#19
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 151
Bikes: 1974 PX-10E sold, 1977 Witcomb stolen, 1980 Roberts 1 speed, 1987 Cyclops 3 x 6 friction triple crank, 2010 Masi Commuter 1 speed, 2017 Ribble 525 2 x 10 with Ergos
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times
in
18 Posts
I can't say that the Campagnolo stuff goes further before this failure, but I can say that it's a LOT easier to deal with when it does happen. To be specific, that's a Veloce 10-speed vs. Shimano 105 comparison. Don't know about SRAM.
It seems that one should change cables before they break. If you shift a lot, indications are that twice a season changes are wise. That's part of the price for riding STI/Ergo. FWIW, cheap down-tube friction shifter cables fail about once a season too, but give plenty of visual warning (and a few sharp stabs!) and are trivial to change. The better ones lasted years or even decades. Maybe some after-market supplier will figure out how to achieve the same durability for STI/Ergo shifters. Or maybe not, I know I shift several times as frequently on my 10-speed Ergo bike than on my 6-speed friction bike.
It seems that one should change cables before they break. If you shift a lot, indications are that twice a season changes are wise. That's part of the price for riding STI/Ergo. FWIW, cheap down-tube friction shifter cables fail about once a season too, but give plenty of visual warning (and a few sharp stabs!) and are trivial to change. The better ones lasted years or even decades. Maybe some after-market supplier will figure out how to achieve the same durability for STI/Ergo shifters. Or maybe not, I know I shift several times as frequently on my 10-speed Ergo bike than on my 6-speed friction bike.
#20
Thread derailleur
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Glendora, CA
Posts: 668
Bikes: Croll '94 & Cannondale Supersix '15
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 378 Post(s)
Liked 478 Times
in
275 Posts
On my 11sp Dura Ace (and previous gen 10sp), I reached about 7k-8k miles to the point of the cable fraying inside the right shifter.
That's when I forgot to simply change it at a regular 5k or 6k interval. My rides consist of many rolling hills, which translates into constant shifting.
It astounds me that Shimano never managed to rectify this design flaw. Sigh...the things we put up with to get nice shifting.
My '71 Gitane and '73 Raleigh have their original cables still! lol
That's when I forgot to simply change it at a regular 5k or 6k interval. My rides consist of many rolling hills, which translates into constant shifting.
It astounds me that Shimano never managed to rectify this design flaw. Sigh...the things we put up with to get nice shifting.
My '71 Gitane and '73 Raleigh have their original cables still! lol
#21
don't try this at home.
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: N. KY
Posts: 5,977
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 987 Post(s)
Liked 530 Times
in
365 Posts
It's the bending where the cable guide turns to make under-the-bar-tape housing possible. My Campagnolo 10 speed did this too. Think bending a coat hanger back and forth, it breaks at the flex point.
I, too, shift a lot on the continuous roller hills and mile long climbs around here. Even on the Campagnolo, I'd often shift for just a couple of pedal strokes, then shift again.
(My Sept 2014 6820 Di2 still shifts perfectly after almost 8 years and more than 30,000 miles. That's kind of amazing to me. Even the derailleurs show no sloppiness or wear in their pivot points or motors. I did replace the seatpost battery after about 4 years.)
I, too, shift a lot on the continuous roller hills and mile long climbs around here. Even on the Campagnolo, I'd often shift for just a couple of pedal strokes, then shift again.
(My Sept 2014 6820 Di2 still shifts perfectly after almost 8 years and more than 30,000 miles. That's kind of amazing to me. Even the derailleurs show no sloppiness or wear in their pivot points or motors. I did replace the seatpost battery after about 4 years.)
#22
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2013
Location: Nor-Cal
Posts: 3,767
Bikes: lots
Mentioned: 7 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1958 Post(s)
Liked 2,932 Times
in
1,489 Posts
On my 11sp Dura Ace (and previous gen 10sp), I reached about 7k-8k miles to the point of the cable fraying inside the right shifter.
That's when I forgot to simply change it at a regular 5k or 6k interval. My rides consist of many rolling hills, which translates into constant shifting.
It astounds me that Shimano never managed to rectify this design flaw. Sigh...the things we put up with to get nice shifting.
My '71 Gitane and '73 Raleigh have their original cables still! lol
That's when I forgot to simply change it at a regular 5k or 6k interval. My rides consist of many rolling hills, which translates into constant shifting.
It astounds me that Shimano never managed to rectify this design flaw. Sigh...the things we put up with to get nice shifting.
My '71 Gitane and '73 Raleigh have their original cables still! lol
#23
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Ottawa, ON, Canada
Posts: 151
Bikes: 1974 PX-10E sold, 1977 Witcomb stolen, 1980 Roberts 1 speed, 1987 Cyclops 3 x 6 friction triple crank, 2010 Masi Commuter 1 speed, 2017 Ribble 525 2 x 10 with Ergos
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 60 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times
in
18 Posts
It IS a huge ordeal, on some Shimano systems at least. Maintainability and repairability should be right up there with reliability and durability.
#24
Should Be More Popular
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Malvern, PA (20 miles West of Philly)
Posts: 43,185
Bikes: 1986 Alpine (steel road bike), 2009 Ti Habenero, 2013 Specialized Roubaix
Mentioned: 561 Post(s)
Tagged: 2 Thread(s)
Quoted: 22711 Post(s)
Liked 9,070 Times
in
4,213 Posts
I honestly would not mind changing it once a year. I am chewing through 3/year which I think is a bit much. I read on another forum that there was a Shimano Service Bulletin that said change out cables every 1000 miles. That would solve my problem but NFW I am going to change a cable out every 6 weeks.
#25
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: SW Ohio
Posts: 3,695
Bikes: Puch Marco Polo, Saint Tropez, Masi Gran Criterium
Mentioned: 25 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1172 Post(s)
Liked 448 Times
in
320 Posts
I honestly would not mind changing it once a year. I am chewing through 3/year which I think is a bit much. I read on another forum that there was a Shimano Service Bulletin that said change out cables every 1000 miles. That would solve my problem but NFW I am going to change a cable out every 6 weeks.