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Accidentally removed the caliper side bleed port plug on TRP HY/RD

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Accidentally removed the caliper side bleed port plug on TRP HY/RD

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Old 04-09-23, 09:45 AM
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sysrq
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Accidentally removed the caliper side bleed port plug on TRP HY/RD

What happens when you accidentally remove the caliper side bleed port plug while trying to remove brake pads. Since the brake pad screw is so close together then sooner or later it can happen when trying to remove the brake pads while not being able to look at it due to awkward bike position.
Since even during the bleeding procedure the system gets exposed to air while removing the tube and putting the bleed port plug back in then it shouldn't be an issue. The brake feels more or less the same as before, although nott sure if the brake lever goes closer to handlebars or not.
Had to remove the brake pads since the right piston protruded outwards a bit more than usual (resulting in brake pad rubbing, had to bush it back in using the blue bleed block supplied by epic) after trying to put the fork dropouts on the ground, but apparently they are too short to support the bike without pushing on the hydraulic disc brake actuator. Only then realized about nearly forgetting about the actuator arm lock screw.

Last edited by sysrq; 04-09-23 at 10:31 AM.
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Old 04-09-23, 10:12 AM
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I've almost did that but I realized, just before the plug was completely out, that I was unscrewing the wrong screw.

Last edited by tyrion; 04-09-23 at 05:07 PM.
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Old 04-09-23, 04:12 PM
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maddog34
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did any fluid escape while the plug was out?

No, or very little? You're fine.

Yes, or more than a tiny bit of dampness? Air entered to replace the lost fluid.
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Old 04-09-23, 04:41 PM
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sysrq
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Originally Posted by maddog34
did any fluid escape while the plug was out?

No, or very little? You're fine.

Yes, or more than a tiny bit of dampness? Air entered to replace the lost fluid.
Just one or two minuscule drops of fluid.

Seems weird that one piston suddenly slightly protruded outwards after resting the fork against the carpet lightly. Now after pushing it back in both pistons move simultaneously.

Last edited by sysrq; 04-09-23 at 05:00 PM.
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Old 04-09-23, 07:54 PM
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the seals are also the springs that cause the piston/s to retract.. they have a square cross section, not round.
the piston/s moved when you set the fork down, unprotected.

the piston/s reset once they were aligned with the disc and you operated the lever a couple times.. totally normal.
if there was a real issue, the piston/s wouldn't reset to "centered", or would be reluctant to do so.

if you did get some air in the caliper, the brake will get a bit mushy when warmed up on a long downhill...
chances are high that it's ok..

Tip: bleeding a tiny flow brake system like a bicycle can be difficult.. Honda showed us how to bleed a similarly troublesome CR250 brake system by removing the Caliper and placing it well above the Lever cylinder, suspended from a hook by coat hanger or whatever...... this allowed any trapped air to migrate Upwards instead of fighting to be pushed down thru the tiny hyd. lines... it works FANTASTIC. If time allows, i hang the caliper for an hour or so before bleeding, and let gravity do it's thing. I always lowered the caliper before opening the reservoir to top it up...Brake Bleeding Becomes Far Easier And More Thorough when these things can be done. The most striking results are seen with a new line and/or completely Dry system,, tiny micro-bubbles form when fluid is first introduced.. Placing the Hose at a 70 degree angle also speeds bubble migration since they can bunch up and move to the caliper as a unit as the fluid flows downward along the lower wall of the hose. Reverse bleeding towards the Lever does not require this technique...REAR brakes are most helped because of the long hose involved. Proper respect to Honda Wrench Reports for this info... i learned this technique at Honda's Torrance M/C Mechanic's School.
A different report has my name attached.. a Safety related Throttle Cable Re-route for the early XL650R's... left turns caused the bike to rev up... ! Over 2000 bikes got un-crated and updated at the Warehouses....any in stock at the dealers got re-routed too. The report hit our Fax machine THE NEXT MORNING .. the hard copy versions arrived two to three days later.... BIG respect for Honda. BIG respect.

Last edited by maddog34; 04-09-23 at 08:21 PM.
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Old 04-10-23, 06:55 AM
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Seems like there was an unfortunate series of mistakes caused by prolonged concentration on other things on the bike. Since it has been said that putting the hy/rd brakes upside down doesn't affect them then if the intention was to clean the mud out of fenders then flipping the bike would have caused less mistakes but due to unnecessary perfectionism decided to take of the wheels and fenders to clean them without flipping the bike just in case it actually affects the HY/RD brakes.
Putting some sticker over the bleed plug might reduce the probability of accidentally screwing the wrong bolt.

Last edited by sysrq; 04-10-23 at 06:59 AM.
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Old 04-10-23, 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by sysrq
Seems like there was an unfortunate series of mistakes caused by prolonged concentration on other things on the bike. Since it has been said that putting the hy/rd brakes upside down doesn't affect them then if the intention was to clean the mud out of fenders then flipping the bike would have caused less mistakes but due to unnecessary perfectionism decided to take of the wheels and fenders to clean them without flipping the bike just in case it actually affects the HY/RD brakes.
Putting some sticker over the bleed plug might reduce the probability of accidentally screwing the wrong bolt.
try a dab of nail polish paint on the ones that shouldn't get removed, maybe....? it's used to indicate that torque is checked on race vehicles' chassis parts of many varieties....a line of paint from bolt head to whatever it contacts also can be used as an indicator of whether that fastener has moved during use..... and it's a lot quicker than dealing with safety wiring things... ahh, cart racing.. ever side-drilled a 5/16-18 nut at 3 in the morning?

Last edited by maddog34; 05-21-23 at 09:56 AM.
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Old 04-12-23, 11:04 AM
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Does tying the brake lever over night works with hy/rd brakes or not?
Someone said squeezing hard the lever also moves the pads slightly closer to the disc which reduces perception of sponginess.

Last edited by sysrq; 04-13-23 at 08:41 AM.
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Old 04-13-23, 09:20 AM
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After holding the lever down for 18 hours the brakes feel stiffer now and the lever isn't as close to the grips. Will see how long it will last before needing a proper bleeding procedure since the trp hy/rd brakes have only around 500km on them.
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Old 04-13-23, 07:25 PM
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Just did the full bleed 6 hour procedure to be on the safe side and the response seems to have become not too stiff and not spongy anymore at the same time.

Last edited by sysrq; 04-15-23 at 06:44 AM.
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Old 05-21-23, 01:04 AM
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Bleeding brakes on a bicycle can help maintain their optimal performance by removing air bubbles or contaminants from the brake system. While it is typically recommended to have a professional perform this task, it is possible to bleed your bicycle brakes yourself if you have the necessary tools. Specific brake systems may have slight variations. Here is a summarized guide which you may follow
  1. Prepare the bike: Position your bike in a stable manner, ensuring it is secure and won't tip over during the process. Place a rag or towel beneath the brakes to catch any spills.
  2. Remove the wheel: If you are bleeding the rear brake, remove the rear wheel. This step is not necessary for bleeding the front brake.
  3. Locate the bleed port: Find the bleed port on the brake lever or caliper. Refer to the manufacturer's instructions for the exact location on your specific brake system.
  4. Prepare the brake fluid: Check the recommended brake fluid type for your brakes (such as mineral oil or DOT fluid) and ensure you have the correct fluid on hand. Fill the syringe from your brake bleeding kit with the appropriate fluid.
  5. Attach the bleeding kit: Connect the syringe to the bleed port using the provided adapter or tubing. Ensure a secure connection to avoid any leakage.
  6. Purge air and contaminants: Begin by removing any existing brake fluid from the system. Depress the brake lever or activate the brake repeatedly, allowing the fluid to flow through the system. You may see air bubbles escaping into the syringe.
  7. Refill the system: With the syringe still connected, slowly inject fresh brake fluid into the system. Watch for any air bubbles rising in the syringe. Continue injecting fluid until all air bubbles are eliminated.
  8. Remove excess fluid: Carefully remove the syringe while keeping the bleed port closed. Wipe away any spilled fluid using a clean rag or paper towel.
  9. Test the brakes: Reinstall the wheel (if necessary), and test the brakes by squeezing the brake lever. Ensure the lever feels firm and responsive. If needed, repeat the bleeding process until the brakes function properly.

    Always refer to the manufacturer's instructions or seek professional assistance if you are unsure or uncomfortable performing the task yourself.
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Old 05-21-23, 09:12 AM
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Thanks, ChatGPT.

This is a human only zone.
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Old 05-21-23, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by base2
Thanks, ChatGPT.

This is a human only zone.
Yes that is a statement that we as humans will agree with. As humans we like to have our human zones and when a human zone is not available we will not be able to have one. Thankfully as the human zone increases so does too more options for being in the human zone. I do not understand a ChatGPT, is that part of human zone? A human zone is a zone designated for humans either 1 or many humans can be in a human zone and as humans we embrace this or not.
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