three-way wrenches
#51
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smd4 ,
I have a penchant for VAR products and some others like Artisan Tool and Die.
I have a penchant for VAR products and some others like Artisan Tool and Die.
#52
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Abbey Tools looks like really nice stuff, and it's priced accordingly...
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools
I wasn't willing to spend $185 on the Abbey chain tool, but I did get this Topeak one for $40, and works really well.
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools
I wasn't willing to spend $185 on the Abbey chain tool, but I did get this Topeak one for $40, and works really well.
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#53
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Abbey Tools looks like really nice stuff, and it's priced accordingly...
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools
I wasn't willing to spend $185 on the Abbey chain tool, but I did get this Topeak one for $40, and works really well.
https://www.abbeybiketools.com/collections/tools
I wasn't willing to spend $185 on the Abbey chain tool, but I did get this Topeak one for $40, and works really well.
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#54
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For $185, I would expect it to break the chain for me, and make me a cup of coffee at the same time. Maybe a massage, too.
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I have the Park Tool version, don't see any reason to get a more expensive one, and after breaking a couple of chains, think I could have easily made do with a less expensive one. Now that most Shimano chains come with a quick link, the chain breaker is only used once or twice per chain to shorten the chain, and there is no need to finesse a new chain pin into place afterward.
I get that we all like professional tools, but despite each of us owning multiple bikes and occasionally fix them for others, it is not like we all work full time at the LBS.
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Heh, two of my Nespresso machines were about that price, so only coffee, no massage.
I have the Park Tool version, don't see any reason to get a more expensive one, and after breaking a couple of chains, think I could have easily made do with a less expensive one. Now that most Shimano chains come with a quick link, the chain breaker is only used once or twice per chain to shorten the chain, and there is no need to finesse a new chain pin into place afterward.
I get that we all like professional tools, but despite each of us owning multiple bikes and occasionally fix them for others, it is not like we all work full time at the LBS.
I have the Park Tool version, don't see any reason to get a more expensive one, and after breaking a couple of chains, think I could have easily made do with a less expensive one. Now that most Shimano chains come with a quick link, the chain breaker is only used once or twice per chain to shorten the chain, and there is no need to finesse a new chain pin into place afterward.
I get that we all like professional tools, but despite each of us owning multiple bikes and occasionally fix them for others, it is not like we all work full time at the LBS.
You are correct that I'm not a pro mechanic. I've never been one, and I never will be. However, I do enjoy working on my bikes, and I like doing it even more with nice tools.
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Nice tools do help. I remember when we got the Snap-On combination wrenches and screwdrivers. The tools just felt better for some reason.
But for around the house, I got a set of Craftsman screwdrivers that mimicked the Snap-On handle shape, and some regular combination wrenches, and they do the exact same job. For bike tools, Park covers most bases, and other manufacturers fill in the remainder.
But for around the house, I got a set of Craftsman screwdrivers that mimicked the Snap-On handle shape, and some regular combination wrenches, and they do the exact same job. For bike tools, Park covers most bases, and other manufacturers fill in the remainder.
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Simple. Because it feels crappy in your hand. Not to mention, personally, that tool would be absolutely useless on my bike. And probably most bikes that belong to people on these forums.
The best thing about the original AWS-1 wasn’t that it functioned flawlessly, it’s that it felt great in the hand while you used it.
The best thing about the original AWS-1 wasn’t that it functioned flawlessly, it’s that it felt great in the hand while you used it.
We had one of those multi tools when I was young, but, since I didn't carry it with me, I didn't use it much. However, a 15mm wrench would be handy to carry with me (including the time that I got stuck with a rear flat on my Bike Friday, and no way to get the tire off).
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There are a few tools that you leave in your apron pocket, Y wrenches in 8,9,10 and hex 4,5,6, small straight and Philips screwdrivers, because they're good for the sort of quick tweak that you might do outside without booking in a job. Y wrenches have quite good ergonomics.
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I had to look for this 3 way tool which is a "wrench force" branded item and I really like this one.
Don't always like to use the ball head allens but unlke the Silca tool these do not round out the fastener.
/markp
Don't always like to use the ball head allens but unlke the Silca tool these do not round out the fastener.
/markp
#63
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#64
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Gunsmithing screwdrivers: parallel faces, don't cam out and damage fastener.
Interesting discussion on B4633 JIS Phillips screwdrivers: Is there such a thing? Did B4633 even govern such a tool?
I dunno. Like Wera Kraftform Lasertip Phillips, though. Resists cam out.
Pretty much ancient history for bikes, I guess. On to Torx vs TorxPlus!
Interesting discussion on B4633 JIS Phillips screwdrivers: Is there such a thing? Did B4633 even govern such a tool?
I dunno. Like Wera Kraftform Lasertip Phillips, though. Resists cam out.
Pretty much ancient history for bikes, I guess. On to Torx vs TorxPlus!
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for screwdrivers I am a big fan of .250 hex bits.
Wera makes really nice bits, and I love this Snap On ratcheting driver
maybe the best tool they make. I have given several as gifts
/markp
Wera makes really nice bits, and I love this Snap On ratcheting driver
maybe the best tool they make. I have given several as gifts
/markp
#67
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Esoteric, I suppose, but you put a burr on some cat's Super Record 50th Anni, and there'll be hell to pay.
Niche: My late-model folding bike has a couple of slotted fasteners. Hmm. Seems like one of my taillamps does, too.
Last edited by tcs; 05-21-23 at 05:02 PM.
#68
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#69
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Yeah, but I wouldn't use them. Bondhus will cost a couple buck each for singles and 20-25 for a set but at a good quality, US made, reliable allen wrench. Not going to ruin your nice stuff with a lousy, soft steel wrench.
Agree, they've sucked since Park stopped offering those. I'll have to try out the Unior.
That's really true of any wrench, ratchet makes no difference. Early on I stripped out a couple of those 9mm nuts on the front der using an old craftsman wrench, which isn't as long as the Wright non-ratcheting I use and certainly shorter than the Snap-on and SK ratchet wrenches I use. Even with the longer wrenches I haven't stripped any out, I just learned to apply an appropriate amount of torque.
I use the original AWS-1 from Park--aluminum-bodied and hard steel--and when we used them in the shop, they were virtually indestructible. Easily my favorite bike tool of all time, and never far from my apron pocket.
Today I wouldn't purchase the new version. Isn't worth the price.
However, the Unior seems a worthy replacement:
Unior Y-wrenches.
Today I wouldn't purchase the new version. Isn't worth the price.
However, the Unior seems a worthy replacement:
Unior Y-wrenches.
The problem with snap on sockets and hex wrenches is that even a small ratchet wrench allows the user to apply too much torque with small fasteners and snap them off. Most common problem with the front derailleur was from owners snapping off the 8mm bolts. An advantage of small wrenches is that you avoid over tightening fasteners and damaging them in the process.
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Yeah, but I wouldn't use them. Bondhus will cost a couple buck each for singles and 20-25 for a set but at a good quality, US made, reliable allen wrench. Not going to ruin your nice stuff with a lousy, soft steel wrench.
Agree, they've sucked since Park stopped offering those. I'll have to try out the Unior.
That's really true of any wrench, ratchet makes no difference. Early on I stripped out a couple of those 9mm nuts on the front der using an old craftsman wrench, which isn't as long as the Wright non-ratcheting I use and certainly shorter than the Snap-on and SK ratchet wrenches I use. Even with the longer wrenches I haven't stripped any out, I just learned to apply an appropriate amount of torque.
Agree, they've sucked since Park stopped offering those. I'll have to try out the Unior.
That's really true of any wrench, ratchet makes no difference. Early on I stripped out a couple of those 9mm nuts on the front der using an old craftsman wrench, which isn't as long as the Wright non-ratcheting I use and certainly shorter than the Snap-on and SK ratchet wrenches I use. Even with the longer wrenches I haven't stripped any out, I just learned to apply an appropriate amount of torque.
For some reason, I'm not a fan of those three-way wrenches (regardless of the brand, quality etc.). The ends always get in the way (hit something when turning).
I prefer a combo of one "normal" and one T-handle bit-holding screwdriver (Wera are my favourite because of the bit quality and design).
tcs
+1 for the Wera Kraftform Lasertip (I have the same as depicted, stainless-steel version). It's awesome.
Wera Phillips bits work very well with screws on bikes, but when I need to use more force and torque (especially for more than a few turns), the Lasertip's tip and handle shape and size are just a perfect fit for my hands at least.
#71
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Honestly, as a professional wrench I've mostly used the Park AWS3 and also Pedros Y wrenches. I like the ergonomics on the Pedros very slightly better. I know Park's hex wrenches are basically made by Bondhus with basic oxide coating and then placed into molded plastic (when applicable) so the tolerances and metallurgy really aren't bad. These items are semi consumable and honestly I don't see them wear very fast when used appropriately. There's a small handful of tasks I like their ergonomics for--like tightening brake pads, sometimes stem face bolts, etc, loosening (and then hitting) the bolts on the bottom of Rockshox forks, etc. Almost everything else is with decent quality long L wrenches (I honestly like color coded Bondhus--the quality is good and they're reasonably inexpensive). I literally never use P wrenches and hate them. My shop just got sliding T handles and I'm not yet convinced about them, but I have a lot of muscle memory with L wrenches.
Park has its moments. Honestly in general the quality is reasonable, occasionally their designs are nice and or clever, and occasionally they have a real dud (their DOT universal bleed kit sucks massively). Unless a mechanic has some really specific obligations regarding tool branding, it's a bit of a sign of experience that their tool kit is cobbled together from different brands representing tool-by-tool preferences.
EVT and Abbey get my votes as the best/most innovative manufacturers. You don't always need them, but sometimes you do. The EVT repair stand head is absolutely worth it in a commercial environment, for example.
Park has its moments. Honestly in general the quality is reasonable, occasionally their designs are nice and or clever, and occasionally they have a real dud (their DOT universal bleed kit sucks massively). Unless a mechanic has some really specific obligations regarding tool branding, it's a bit of a sign of experience that their tool kit is cobbled together from different brands representing tool-by-tool preferences.
EVT and Abbey get my votes as the best/most innovative manufacturers. You don't always need them, but sometimes you do. The EVT repair stand head is absolutely worth it in a commercial environment, for example.
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Snap-on tools aren't the best and they cost too much, but break one and they'll give you a new one.
You don't see that many Snap On in bike shops but in automotive, body and fabrication shops they and the others I mentioned pretty much have those markets sewn-up tight. Yeah, you'll see a few Craftsman but ever since all of their manufacturing went to China, their quality fell off the table too. Many of their wrenches were made by Danaher tool in the US.
I have Craftsman (Danaher), Snap On, Mac and Cornwell and all of them are prized tools of mine and their wrenches, especially Snap On, always fit tight and never round-off a nut. And, if a nut is rounded off, the first wrench or socket I reach for is a Snap On, I also work on my own cars, have for decades, hence my penchant for "automotive" tools as well as the collection of Park, Hozan and VAR.
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I won't say go out and buy one, I love the tool, it is pretty, it is super functional and feels really good in all forms and functions, but it is expensive for a home mechanic and someone how may not be using it often. I will admit yeah if I hadn't bought it during their Monday sale they do each year I probably wouldn't own one and really it is just jewelry in the box but if people can wear diamonds and gold surely I can have an emerald that also breaks chains ; )
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#74
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I'm interested to see which tools you think are "better"? Mac, Proto, SK, Cornwell, Wera? Something else? Seriously, I'd like to know because I'd like to check them out. You're right about the cost though. All of the best tools are expensive.
You don't see that many Snap On in bike shops but in automotive, body and fabrication shops they and the others I mentioned pretty much have those markets sewn-up tight. Yeah, you'll see a few Craftsman but ever since all of their manufacturing went to China, their quality fell off the table too. Many of their wrenches were made by Danaher tool in the US.
I have Craftsman (Danaher), Snap On, Mac and Cornwell and all of them are prized tools of mine and their wrenches, especially Snap On, always fit tight and never round-off a nut. And, if a nut is rounded off, the first wrench or socket I reach for is a Snap On, I also work on my own cars, have for decades, hence my penchant for "automotive" tools as well as the collection of Park, Hozan and VAR.
You don't see that many Snap On in bike shops but in automotive, body and fabrication shops they and the others I mentioned pretty much have those markets sewn-up tight. Yeah, you'll see a few Craftsman but ever since all of their manufacturing went to China, their quality fell off the table too. Many of their wrenches were made by Danaher tool in the US.
I have Craftsman (Danaher), Snap On, Mac and Cornwell and all of them are prized tools of mine and their wrenches, especially Snap On, always fit tight and never round-off a nut. And, if a nut is rounded off, the first wrench or socket I reach for is a Snap On, I also work on my own cars, have for decades, hence my penchant for "automotive" tools as well as the collection of Park, Hozan and VAR.
I do think for general tools for the most part Snap-On is pretty damn good I haven't used anything quite as nice yet and have used a bunch of different tool brands stuff. My old shop at one point had about 9 Snap On boxes (technically you could say 3 but talking individual pieces it was 9 boxes) and most of the mechanics had some Snap-On tools to a lot of Snap-On tools. I know not super common in a shop but we loved it.
Yes Snap-On doesn't currently make bike specific tools and probably won't but there other tools are excellent and that is what matters to me. I will happily own Snap-On and continue buying Snap-On because they make great tools and have an excellent warranty. I called my guy and hey replaced the wrench no questions asked no issues no cost easy peasy.
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When someone mentions a three-way wrench, I think of this:
I've owned this 8-9-10 Y wrench for over 40 years. I originally purchased it in the bicycle section of a local Yellow Front variety store - it's interesting that several of the Taiwanese tools I bought at Yellow Front are still in front-line use.
This wrench rides in my shop apron when I'm working at Rusty Spoke, Recycle Your Bicycle, or other place, and has seen heavy use its entire life - and just keeps working. I have had to grind it down a bit over the decades to correct any rounding of the hexes, but at current rates it's good for another century or so.
I've owned this 8-9-10 Y wrench for over 40 years. I originally purchased it in the bicycle section of a local Yellow Front variety store - it's interesting that several of the Taiwanese tools I bought at Yellow Front are still in front-line use.
This wrench rides in my shop apron when I'm working at Rusty Spoke, Recycle Your Bicycle, or other place, and has seen heavy use its entire life - and just keeps working. I have had to grind it down a bit over the decades to correct any rounding of the hexes, but at current rates it's good for another century or so.
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