I don't bugger screws...
#1
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I don't bugger screws...
Until I do.
Holy moly, but I got this one good. My hand ground, tight fitting, parallel flats screwdriver shredded it worse than a Home Depot Cheapo would have. I got a needle nose pliers on the other end and twisted that end right off. Dremeled a new slot but no bueno. Small reverse twist bits on the way. Yikes.
Holy moly, but I got this one good. My hand ground, tight fitting, parallel flats screwdriver shredded it worse than a Home Depot Cheapo would have. I got a needle nose pliers on the other end and twisted that end right off. Dremeled a new slot but no bueno. Small reverse twist bits on the way. Yikes.
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#2
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That sucks, sounds like you're using a cabinet screwdriver? It's the kind I tend to prefer for small, soft screws. Is that the brake pad holder screw? Had to do one recently that was really tight and I was glad it was a hex bolt, still stopped to look for the key that had the cleanest, sharpest edges before giving it the final crank and was surprised it was that tight, would have stripped if it was a screw head.
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#5
Until I do.
Holy moly, but I got this one good. My hand ground, tight fitting, parallel flats screwdriver shredded it worse than a Home Depot Cheapo would have. I got a needle nose pliers on the other end and twisted that end right off. Dremeled a new slot but no bueno. Small reverse twist bits on the way. Yikes.
Holy moly, but I got this one good. My hand ground, tight fitting, parallel flats screwdriver shredded it worse than a Home Depot Cheapo would have. I got a needle nose pliers on the other end and twisted that end right off. Dremeled a new slot but no bueno. Small reverse twist bits on the way. Yikes.
[Ages ago I bought several different sizes of SS screws that are commonly used in bicycles in boxes of 100 and still have not run out of them. Often racks, fenders etc come with steel hardware with start rusting in time. Swapping these items from the beginning eliminates rust problem.]
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Same exact thing happened to me with my Ultegra calipers too. I was able to drill it out by using a center punch and starting with a small drill bit and working my way up. Unfortunately I trashed the threads in the process but was able to use a cotter pin instead of a replacement screw. I eventually replaced both calipers because I didn’t like the way it looked.
#7
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Same exact thing happened to me with my Ultegra calipers too. I was able to drill it out by using a center punch and starting with a small drill bit and working my way up. Unfortunately I trashed the threads in the process but was able to use a cotter pin instead of a replacement screw. I eventually replaced both calipers because I didn’t like the way it looked.
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"We bought a conex box of pot-metal pins and, ummm...yeah." They started using hex head with the 12 speed release, but I bought aftermarket Ti replacements.
Hoping a black Sharpie will fix the dings on this one, but you just reminded me; I haven't got to front calipers yet. Ai yi yi!
Hoping a black Sharpie will fix the dings on this one, but you just reminded me; I haven't got to front calipers yet. Ai yi yi!
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Any reason not to disassemble new components then re-assemble using anti-seize or grease (where appropriate) so as to effect more reasonable approach to removal "down the road"?
I too also favor stainless fasteners over pretty much anything else the last few years but even with that there are times stainless isn't really resistant to buggering when they've been installed dry & tightish.
Not wanting to instigate a flame-war, just curious what others' experience have been and what practices have been changed as a result of stuff like the OP's shown us here.
I too also favor stainless fasteners over pretty much anything else the last few years but even with that there are times stainless isn't really resistant to buggering when they've been installed dry & tightish.
Not wanting to instigate a flame-war, just curious what others' experience have been and what practices have been changed as a result of stuff like the OP's shown us here.
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It's miserable weather and I have the CV flu, so I thought this is a good time for doing maintenance on my 2 bikes with hydraulic brakes...and I was right.
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I got sandbagged a couple weeks ago with RSV. Fortunately no fever but a nagging, vicious cough that's still with me. Went back to work last week w/ Dr's approval though, better to be upright & moving than sitting or recumbent, just letting the crud accumulate. Nearing 75 and w/ history of bronchitis and/or pneumonia I'm very wary of URTI's this time of year particularly.
Stay hydrated, don't over-stress yourself, try to get more rest than you otherwise might find convenient.
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In re: suggestions to use SS or Ti screws. Depending on the female thread material, one could get galling. To minimize problems I would use a good quality hardened and plated steel hex screw, with antiseize. If the female thread is Al a SS bolt would be my second choice. But ample antiseize in any case.
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Ah, Wisconsin. The memories of my newly shampooed hair freezing solid while I waited for the HS school bus. And of walking down the "Beta wind tunnel" (the short cul de sac that my lakefront college fraternity was on) when the temp was -20°F and the wind chill was -40°F. Good times. Sigh....
#14
We are making the new generations softer… when my children were in grade school, teachers wouldn’t allow them to come inside the building during recess unless the temperature was minus 40F or the windchill was 50 below zero F. Their school play ground also had merry-go-round, seesaw and monkey bars etc. The current school boards consider all these things to be dangerous or lethal devices.
Commuting on bicycle was very interesting on such a day. Eyes water which gets caught into eyelashes and turns into solid little icicles very quickly. Once you experience this, your next purchase is a good quality ski goggles!
Commuting on bicycle was very interesting on such a day. Eyes water which gets caught into eyelashes and turns into solid little icicles very quickly. Once you experience this, your next purchase is a good quality ski goggles!
#15
Alan K, it is interesting how a culture changes as it becomes more affluent and as technology and the knowledge base grows. My wife teaches in a country school that is becoming gentrified. In the beginning 30 some years ago they rarely had indoor recess. Today the district simply cancels school if it is forecast to have sub-freezing temps or more than 3" of snow. It is sad that law suits and the general over-protection of children is softening the coming generations. Fortunately my wife and I did not pamper our kids and they display a level of self-reliance and toughness that is considered extraordinary today, but when we were kids it was and expectation of society at large.
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#18
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Right.... got it!
Also, slotted screws are evil by nature.
As stated above, I too go hex at first availability.
(torx if absolutely. but... eeeeh)
Would have also suggested an 'easy-out' (reverse twist bits with extra steps) which causes even more problems 25% of the time.
Next step is a shaped charge and/or some thermite.
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Alan K, it is interesting how a culture changes as it becomes more affluent and as technology and the knowledge base grows. My wife teaches in a country school that is becoming gentrified. In the beginning 30 some years ago they rarely had indoor recess. Today the district simply cancels school if it is forecast to have sub-freezing temps or more than 3" of snow. It is sad that law suits and the general over-protection of children is softening the coming generations. Fortunately my wife and I did not pamper our kids and they display a level of self-reliance and toughness that is considered extraordinary today, but when we were kids it was and expectation of society at large.
The point of my ramblings being, if there is one, is that the skills needed to survive have changed; have always changed, will always change. Some things stay the same; family, wars.
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Any chance of killing the loop portion of the pad that the screw goes through to drop the pads out? A very thin cutting wheel like a Dremel or similar would be appropriate. With the pads removed you could grab the broken screw shaft with a needle nose pliers and voilá! Bob's your Uncle.
#22
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We are making the new generations softer… when my children were in grade school, teachers wouldn’t allow them to come inside the building during recess unless the temperature was minus 40F or the windchill was 50 below zero F. Their school play ground also had merry-go-round, seesaw and monkey bars etc. The current school boards consider all these things to be dangerous or lethal devices.
Commuting on bicycle was very interesting on such a day. Eyes water which gets caught into eyelashes and turns into solid little icicles very quickly. Once you experience this, your next purchase is a good quality ski goggles!
Commuting on bicycle was very interesting on such a day. Eyes water which gets caught into eyelashes and turns into solid little icicles very quickly. Once you experience this, your next purchase is a good quality ski goggles!
ref “bugger” - yeah it means that sometimes in the UK but mostly means “knacker” or “screw up”. So can you screw up a screw?
And try mixing in “screw” being UK slang for a prison officer.
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Oh yeah, did that already. Squeezed the remaining pin so bad I was afraid it was going to break. I need that to see where to drill.
I think the proper 'smith phrasing might be "buggering the pin" but that's from the Edwardian era.
I think the proper 'smith phrasing might be "buggering the pin" but that's from the Edwardian era.
#24
Sorry -40 F is insane. We used to do all kinds of stuff that was very badly thought through and people died, that’s why safety standards have improved.
ref “bugger” - yeah it means that sometimes in the UK but mostly means “knacker” or “screw up”. So can you screw up a screw?
And try mixing in “screw” being UK slang for a prison officer.
ref “bugger” - yeah it means that sometimes in the UK but mostly means “knacker” or “screw up”. So can you screw up a screw?
And try mixing in “screw” being UK slang for a prison officer.
Last edited by Alan K; 01-13-24 at 07:28 PM.
#25
Or you can use a long punch after supporting the pin side properly, and use a hammer to gradually tap it out.