SE bike questions
#1
Member in Training
Thread Starter
SE bike questions
Hi everyone. My son and I are building up a SE Blocks Flyer that we found neglected.
1) We need to replace the bottom bracket and I'm unsure what size or type we need. When we pulled the old one out, the one side was still on the spindle and I had to tap it to get the bearing's off.
2) Rear brakes, unsure what length lever arms.
Thanks
1) We need to replace the bottom bracket and I'm unsure what size or type we need. When we pulled the old one out, the one side was still on the spindle and I had to tap it to get the bearing's off.
2) Rear brakes, unsure what length lever arms.
Thanks
#2
BMX Connoisseur
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Canada
Posts: 774
Bikes: 1988 Kuwahara Newport, 1983 Nishiki, 1984 Diamond Back Viper, 1991 Dyno Compe
Liked 108 Times
in
69 Posts
I'm pretty sure it's a Euro bottom bracket. Are you looking to replace the whole crank or just the bearings? If it's just the bearings they often have a number on the side of them and you can usually pick them up cheaper at a auto store compared to a bike shop. The brake levers are all personal choice for length. I looked it up and they use cheapo Promax. I'd just find one that looks cool and matches how you are fixing up the bike.
Likes For cbrstar:
#3
Guest
2018-2020 Blocks Flyers had a Euro bottom bracket; 2021s have a Mid. If the bearing threads into the frame it's Euro. If the bearings press directly in, it's Mid. I believe all had/have a 19mm spindle.
Depending on year, the brakes were either Promax or Tektro V-brakes, so any V-brake lever should work. They spec them with a "2-finger" lever, if that matters.
If you figure out the year model, the SE Archives has many of the specs for each model. Look it up under the "Rad Series" of each year.
Depending on year, the brakes were either Promax or Tektro V-brakes, so any V-brake lever should work. They spec them with a "2-finger" lever, if that matters.
If you figure out the year model, the SE Archives has many of the specs for each model. Look it up under the "Rad Series" of each year.
Last edited by Rolla; 02-16-21 at 03:57 PM.
Likes For Rolla:
#4
Member in Training
Thread Starter
Headset question
Thanks for the info so far.
Its 2019 based on the SN, so it would be a Euro BB.
What I ment on the length of the levers, was for the rear part where the brake pads mount. Maybe there called something different. But while shopping around I seen lengths of 85mm or 105mm. We have determined that we would need the longer one to clear the big tire (26x2.5).
My next question is about headsets. The current one is the caged ball bearing style and some of the ball bearings are missing from the bottom set. I would like to go to a sealed bearing type. I understand I would need to replace the cups and get a whole set. But I'm unsure of difference of 36 degree and 45 degree. I'm not sure what part that relates to, so that I could compare to the current set up. I have been looking at the FSA Orbit, is this do-able or what should I go with?
Thanks again.
Its 2019 based on the SN, so it would be a Euro BB.
What I ment on the length of the levers, was for the rear part where the brake pads mount. Maybe there called something different. But while shopping around I seen lengths of 85mm or 105mm. We have determined that we would need the longer one to clear the big tire (26x2.5).
My next question is about headsets. The current one is the caged ball bearing style and some of the ball bearings are missing from the bottom set. I would like to go to a sealed bearing type. I understand I would need to replace the cups and get a whole set. But I'm unsure of difference of 36 degree and 45 degree. I'm not sure what part that relates to, so that I could compare to the current set up. I have been looking at the FSA Orbit, is this do-able or what should I go with?
Thanks again.
#5
Guest
Since I assume you're going to have to press in the headset cups and replace the crown race, you'll want to do that at a bike shop, where they can help you get the right headset.
Pretty comprehensive headset info here: https://www.bikeradar.com/features/t...e-to-headsets/
Pretty comprehensive headset info here: https://www.bikeradar.com/features/t...e-to-headsets/
#7
Member in Training
Thread Starter
Thanks for the Spec sheet. But it doesn't give me the specs for the Headset, just says Tange 1 1/8" threadless. pretty basic description.
#8
BMX Connoisseur
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Canada
Posts: 774
Bikes: 1988 Kuwahara Newport, 1983 Nishiki, 1984 Diamond Back Viper, 1991 Dyno Compe
Liked 108 Times
in
69 Posts
You will have to pop out the cups of the old headset and measure the diameter of the lip that presses into the frame with a micrometer.
Likes For cbrstar:
#9
Junior Member
Join Date: Sep 2011
Location: San Juan, PR
Posts: 164
Bikes: 1980's Royce Union "fixed wheel", 1995 Trek 370, 406 -wheeled " shopper/minivelo"for running errands, SS Raleigh M60
Liked 68 Times
in
50 Posts
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...read-them.html
See if this helps if not, maybe call/write/email sebikes?
See if this helps if not, maybe call/write/email sebikes?
Likes For Juan el Boricua:
#10
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Norman, Oklahoma
Posts: 5,395
Bikes: Too many to list
Liked 1,127 Times
in
748 Posts
dont over complicate it, the SE’s are cheap and simple bikes (have had 3 of them over the years and currently have a Big Fler). They dont put anything exotic on them at all.
im just saddened that you found one only a year or so old that was so dogged out it needs all this , but kids can be abusive
Last edited by DMC707; 02-23-21 at 12:59 PM.
Likes For DMC707:
#11
Member in Training
Thread Starter
so just buy another Tange threadless headset. Simple
dont over complicate it, the SE’s are cheap and simple bikes (have had 3 of them over the years and currently have a Big Fler). They dont put anything exotic on them at all.
im just saddened that you found one only a year or so old that was so dogged out it needs all this , but kids can be abusive
dont over complicate it, the SE’s are cheap and simple bikes (have had 3 of them over the years and currently have a Big Fler). They dont put anything exotic on them at all.
im just saddened that you found one only a year or so old that was so dogged out it needs all this , but kids can be abusive
#12
BMX Connoisseur
Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: Canada
Posts: 774
Bikes: 1988 Kuwahara Newport, 1983 Nishiki, 1984 Diamond Back Viper, 1991 Dyno Compe
Liked 108 Times
in
69 Posts
Were you able to measure the cups? On the Tange site the DX4 headsets state a outer diameter of 34mm but you should double check it. Tange makes a Technoglide in a similar size but it's pricey. You will have to google "Standard" 1 1/8th thread less headset. Other brands I can think of is FSA MX 1 1/8th but I'm sure there is others. Also check if your forks need a star nut and make sure that's included if you do. You might need to also order some spacers as the headset height might be different.
Likes For cbrstar:
#14
Hack
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 1,299
Bikes: TrueNorth CX bike, 88 Bianchi Strada (currently Sturmey'd), Yess World Cup race BMX, Pure Cruiser race BMX, RSD Mayor v3 Fatbike
Liked 208 Times
in
144 Posts
Just get any 29" tubes for appropriate width tires. There is nothing special about the SE bike that would need anything different than 29" MTB tubes. As far as running over thorns - you can try adding Slime or other sealant into your tubes, (Slime brand sells tubes that already have slime in it), try tire liners like Mr.Tuffy - thorns are tough to protect. Best protection is probably going all the way to a tubeless setup, but that's probably more than the big flyer should really be worth.
#15
Clark W. Griswold
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: ,location, location
Posts: 14,619
Bikes: Foundry Chilkoot Ti W/Ultegra Di2, Salsa Timberjack Ti, Cinelli Mash Work RandoCross Fun Time Machine, 1x9 XT Parts Hybrid, Co-Motion Cascadia, Specialized Langster, Phil Wood Apple VeloXS Frame (w/DA 7400), R+M Supercharger2 Rohloff, Habanero Ti 26
Liked 4,552 Times
in
3,049 Posts
In terms of your question get good quality puncture protectant tires from known quality brands (think Continental, Vittoria, Maxxis, Schwalbe... in no order) and keep your standard butyl tubes (again quality sources) properly inflated and you will get fewer flats. Avoid any goo or goop or hard liners if you are wanting a liner something soft and foamy like the Tannus Armour is good. You will use a smaller tube with those just FYI.
If you are desperate for putting goo or fluid in your tires you will need to get a tubeless set up first and then find a good tubeless sealant. This would be very different from the mess that is slime or similar and there would be no tubes and generally you would need a tubeless rim and tire.