capybeep

It was a single key for the whole set. However, guess where I packed the remaining set pieces I didn’t use. Har har. (Spoiler: in the same box of bike gear that was lost in the move.)

It could be worse. I could’ve installed the whole set before moving. Thankfully, the my saddle is in a good position and not in need of replacement.

Pop N Wood

I was going to suggest the same. I've had to do that pulling parts in junk yard. Use a 12 point socket if possible.

I don't know how pit locks work but that thing looks like you need to turn the part inside that outer cup.

If you are really stuck weld a nut onto the end of the part you need to turn.

Just noticed the date of the thread, but this being BF it won't stop a conversation.

capybeep

Oh neat! I didn’t consider the welding option. I’ll keep it in mind. Thank you :-)

And you’re right; it’s the part on the inside of the cup that requires turning.

jccaclimber

Seeing as we're all having productive fun with a zombie thread I'll chime in:
1. If I had proof (eg, e-mail receipt) of purchase I'd certainly expect the manufacturer to he more helpful. I do understand that without some sort of proof of ownership there's no way they would send out locks.
2. An insured mover should pay the cost of having this resolved. During my one paid move the movers damaged a few things. It was very easy to come to an agreement with the movers that they would give me $X for the effort. If they didn't want to pay be $Y for the part plus $Z for my time to fix it myself I would happily take it to a professional for repair, where the bill would be much larger.
3. Careful with the welding solution. I've used that to remove a number of stubborn fasteners, particularly broken off screws in large castings. However, the heat from the welding action is something to be considered. It's probably not an issue with a steel or maybe even aluminum fork, but even wrapped in a wet rag I wouldn't want to do that to a fork with a carbon leg, or really any fork that has a bonded in dropout. It may also not do the paint any favors.
4. If using destructive removal, you could grind the entire end off, but if you grind a hole in the center the head then typically falls off. It may be easier to access the fixed side rather than the nut side if you're going the destructive removal route.

CliffordK

I still would talk to the manufacturer (do they have a local branch?). Sending them the brand new skewers should suffice as proof of ownership (along with purchase records), and hopefully they are able to decode them.

Or are the skewers lost with everything else?

There are also a few brands of "bolt extractors". Craftsman, Irwin, others?

https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Bol.../dp/B007C6KKAK

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-HANSON-...dp/B0000CCXVZ/

I haven't had a lot of use for my Craftsman bolt extractors. When I bought them, they came in a nice plastic box with half of them. Then I had to pay extra to get the other half.

lister00

An old thread but one of the few on the subject.
I've just been in the same position, and was looking for answers.
I was thinking up a load of complex and destructive options, until I thought I should try some plyers.
Just opened my pitlock axel in 2 seconds with some needle nose plyers.
So maybe not as safe as we thought.

But the answer for anyone stuck is: Needle Nose Plyers

grumpus

Pliers. I don't think that would work if the skewer was properly tight. An angle grinder will work every time, just don't spoil the paint with a shower of sparks.