Suntour1985 

Just wondering if there are any differences between "Sachs-Maillard" and newer "Sachs" freewheels. I am looking for NOS and the former seems to command a much lower price on EBay. Thanks.

Chombi1 

I had the impression that the Sachs/Maillard FW was more a Sachs design than a Maillard because of the different cog tooth profile and tip shape compared to earlier Maillard FWs. The finish quality of the FWs also vastly improved when Maillard partnered with Sachs. 8 think the newer FWs also shifter better, so you cannot go wrong with the Sachs or Sachs/Maillard FWs they definitely are an improvement over the old Maillard design.

pastorbobnlnh 

Generally speaking, there's not much difference as long as we are talking about the "Aris" models. Aris was a response to Shimano's SIS/HyperGlide indexed shifting system. The teeth of the sprockets were carefully shaped to provide precise indexed shifting.

Early Sachs-Maillard sprockets had three evenly spaced taps on their nonthreaded sprockets. Later Sachs sprockets had four tabs, with one tab offset from the evenly spaced three. Sachs-Maillard 3-tab sprockets could be installed in both the up or down orientation (if installed in the wrong direction the shape of the teeth would be in the incorrect orientation). The Sachs 4-tab sprockets could only be installed in one configuration. This meant the shaped teeth of the sprocket were all in the same orientation.

Shimano did the same thing with their UniGlide and HyperGlide freewheels and cassettes. Shimano used a "zigzag" pattern of splines on their freewheel sprockets which can only be installed in one configuration.

I hope this is helpful and the answer you are looking for.

One thing to keep in mind is that the grease Sachs used on these freewheels turns into a sticky peanut butter consistency. They flooded the interior of the body with grease (as opposed to grease in the races only). NOS Sachs and Sachs-Maillards are often non-functional because the pawls are stuck in the old contaminated grease. Of course a proper servicing can correct this condition and you will have an exceptional freewheel to use afterwards.

Chombi1 

What I like about the Sachs Maillard FW is, I never had my chains skate over the tips of the cogs like the older Maillard FWs with the grooved cog tips sometimes did on me. It's pretty scary when the resistance to pedaling suddenly goes away on you and it can cause you to crash.

Suntour1985 

Many thanks gentlemen, exactly what I was looking for. I currently have a Sachs freewheel and a Sram chain and am very pleased with them. Yes - Campy Syncro 2 does work! Needing another freewheel for a 2nd bike.

steelbikeguy

a bit off-topic maybe, but I used the Sachs (or Sachs-Maillard?) 7 speed freewheels on my commuting bike, circa 2001 or so. Very nicely made, but that grease was a problem in very cold weather. It was really too thick for this sort of use, and the pawls wouldn't engage after coasting. Nothing like being out amongst the cornfields in 20F temperatures and having the freewheel refuse to transfer any torque!

Fortunately, it wasn't hard to flush with some WD-40 and dribble motor oil into the freewheel.

Steve in Peoria

pastorbobnlnh 

...but as you might imagine, the "flush and dribble" method for servicing freewheels is not one I recommend--- except for in emergencies.

This is especially true with the Sachs Aris, Suntour Winner Pro, and Shimano Dura Ace, Sante, and 600 models, which all have seals which effectively keep most (if not all) of the "flush and dribble" solutions from reaching the internal parts of the body.

Finally, it is also a great way to "dribble" oil back onto your derailleurs, chain, sprockets, chain ring, etc., making them a perfect adhesive for catching more dirt, sand, etc., thus prematurely wearing out components.

Just my two cents, but I realize many good C&V folk disagree with my opinion on this topic.

Garthr

I don't mean to contradict Bob as-if to to diss or dis-miss him or any way be mean, I'm just realying my experience with the many Sachs Aris FW's I have as an example of experiences can vary so much !

I've always flushed them, the ones with the port holes, then blow come light compressed air in the hole, and relubed them. When I use oil I let the excess drip put face down or up on a paper towel overnight at the least. I've used motor oil of various weights, plus some Lucas White Lithium grease mixed with a little oil of late. Standard motor oil is a bit too thin on it's own for my liking. Most of my Sachs are the ones with the red "seals". Funny thing though, I've never had any sort issue with them regardless of what I've done. The factory grease as Bob mentioned, is so thick it's freewheeling in both directions in waiting, if not broken down and in some way. Even the relatively new ones I used back in the 90's. I think I've used both auto degreaser and WD-40, but as I found, WD-40 is a poor degreaser. I likely used diesel at some point also. I've used FW's my entire life and the only one I remember siezing is the original SunTour from my '83 Stumpy. I never oiled it at all and it sat out in the rain at times during a brief stint of college. I didn't know any better at the time. They were easy to get though, plus cogs and spacers. So to me at the end of the day, there's a zillion ways to do things, despite what I or anyone says is their way. The worst thing of all is any self-imposed guilt for believing something was done wrong and punishment is to be served, that things shoulda woulda coulda been different,as if it woulda coulda shoulda made or makes a difference. It's like a backset driver ! Easy to give commands and question everything when you're not there ! So smile Regardless.

randyjawa 

I flush with WD40, spin a bit and flush again. I flush from the outside face of the freewheel to the inside face. I flush and spin until I see WD40 leaking out of the inner face. Then I blow (don't have a compressor) in an effort to push as much of the contaminated WD40 out (again, working from the outside face to the inner face. Repeat a few times then I liberally flush the freewheel with ProLink and, finally, some light oil, again flushing until you are sure that the oil has begun to seep through. That's all there is to it and been doing it for many years.