Brand new Shimano CB-E110 slipping
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Brand new Shimano CB-E110 slipping
I'm having an issue with a brand new Shimano CB-E110 hub I can't make sense of. It's slipping intermittently under power, such that the cranks feel like they're partially spinning freely. I'd say it seems more frequent under gentle power, and less frequent during strong effort. I've noticed this on several rides, but the most recent ride was the worst—the hub seemed fine until some heavier braking down a hilly section, after which the slipping was very pronounced. So maybe temp is a factor?
I've rebuilt coaster hubs a couple times and have a tub of high temp auto grease I can try. I know the advice with coaster problems is usually just to rebuild, and I'll probably end up doing that. But I wanted to ask first if this issue made sense to anyone / if there's anything particular I should inspect for if I take it apart.
I've rebuilt coaster hubs a couple times and have a tub of high temp auto grease I can try. I know the advice with coaster problems is usually just to rebuild, and I'll probably end up doing that. But I wanted to ask first if this issue made sense to anyone / if there's anything particular I should inspect for if I take it apart.
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Look for old grease being glazed or dried out between the driver and the clutch. The axle bearing adjustment also effects the amount of back pedaling to engage the brake. But just like older IGHs these hubs do like a tiny amount of lateral slop to the bearing adjustment.
I have seen a coaster brake hub where the cog had become dislodged (the retaining ring didn't stay put in its groove) and its three tabs jammed into the ring's groove. The cog could sort of spin on the driver but would also feel tight at other times. Then there's the chain ring and crank arm interface that might also be where the slippage is coming from. Andy
I have seen a coaster brake hub where the cog had become dislodged (the retaining ring didn't stay put in its groove) and its three tabs jammed into the ring's groove. The cog could sort of spin on the driver but would also feel tight at other times. Then there's the chain ring and crank arm interface that might also be where the slippage is coming from. Andy
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Ditto the suggestion about dried grease.
If the clutch doesn't move freely on the helix it may prefer to turn with it rather than move out and engage the hub. Or simply not press on it hard enough at low pedal pressure.
If you don't want to take it apart, you mightget away with spraying a little WD-40 our similar solvent/oil product in and working the clutch back and forth.
BTW- since it's brand new, you might try doing nothing. Riding, especially with frequent quick back and forth braking and pedaling may free it up pretty quickly.
If the clutch doesn't move freely on the helix it may prefer to turn with it rather than move out and engage the hub. Or simply not press on it hard enough at low pedal pressure.
If you don't want to take it apart, you mightget away with spraying a little WD-40 our similar solvent/oil product in and working the clutch back and forth.
BTW- since it's brand new, you might try doing nothing. Riding, especially with frequent quick back and forth braking and pedaling may free it up pretty quickly.
Last edited by FBinNY; 05-18-24 at 02:53 PM.