Help estimate frame size on thrift Miyata 512 road bike
#27
Do you really need fenders in Southern California? Also- what are double brake levers?
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Well, I was able to get the raw thrift going after a tube patch and lube.
Gotta say that after clean and polish, this thing looks nice!
I had some 700c tires from the Fuji laying around; they are wider and a bit TALLER. And the TALL is where I ran into a snag -- it began hitting the brake caliper when the tire was fully inflated.
So I need wide and a bit low-profile, like originals.
Ideas welcome!
Gotta say that after clean and polish, this thing looks nice!
I had some 700c tires from the Fuji laying around; they are wider and a bit TALLER. And the TALL is where I ran into a snag -- it began hitting the brake caliper when the tire was fully inflated.
So I need wide and a bit low-profile, like originals.
Ideas welcome!
#30
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Bikes: Gary Fisher Advance (1993, heavily modded); Fuji Absolute 2.0 (2010; modded); 1989 Miyata 512 (58cm; $50, thrift buy); KHS Classic (63cm, 12-spd); Schwinn World Sport (58cm); Schwinn Voyageur (58cm); 1987 Centurion Ironman (60cm); etc.
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Double lever
I want to do as little as possible on this bike project.
Experiments with how resourceful one can become!
But I need dual brake levers.
But not necessarily the “suicide levers” so common on old school 10 speeds.
I absolutely despise common front -only road bike arrangements. I want TOPs. Even for the sake of rerouting existing front cables for new top levers.If I can do so resourcefully.
I always had duals in previous road bikes. Almost never used fronts.
Below is an image of traditional 10 speed with top and front, dual lever.
I realize we’ve come a long way since then and there maybe much better options for tops.
Experiments with how resourceful one can become!
But I need dual brake levers.
But not necessarily the “suicide levers” so common on old school 10 speeds.
I absolutely despise common front -only road bike arrangements. I want TOPs. Even for the sake of rerouting existing front cables for new top levers.If I can do so resourcefully.
I always had duals in previous road bikes. Almost never used fronts.
Below is an image of traditional 10 speed with top and front, dual lever.
I realize we’ve come a long way since then and there maybe much better options for tops.
Last edited by elcyc; 05-16-24 at 05:27 PM.
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#32
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I'd probably just get a flatbar and Sturmey Archer shortpull brake levers (or some vintage shortpulls by Shimano, Suntour, etc)
#33
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Bikes: Gary Fisher Advance (1993, heavily modded); Fuji Absolute 2.0 (2010; modded); 1989 Miyata 512 (58cm; $50, thrift buy); KHS Classic (63cm, 12-spd); Schwinn World Sport (58cm); Schwinn Voyageur (58cm); 1987 Centurion Ironman (60cm); etc.
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Bike as station wagon.
The setup you see looks bizarre and real chaos theory. But it was extremely stable, balanced, secure and protective of both the load and the carrier. In many ways, the return loaded trip was easier as it was mostly downhill; and with extra mass/inertia, I was mostly coasting. And the success and smoothness of the loaded trip is very much a psychological trip as well: inventing, planning, experimenting, and deliberately riding with purposeful precaution and slow-paced (timed) actions (like braking, riding speed, gear shifting).
Bottom line: a very smooth, fun and rewarding experience. I could probably, now, haul two stacked bikes of similar weight as the 512.
#34
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Bikes: Gary Fisher Advance (1993, heavily modded); Fuji Absolute 2.0 (2010; modded); 1989 Miyata 512 (58cm; $50, thrift buy); KHS Classic (63cm, 12-spd); Schwinn World Sport (58cm); Schwinn Voyageur (58cm); 1987 Centurion Ironman (60cm); etc.
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Fenders, maybe.
But SAFETY and practicality of it remaining a usable, enjoyable road bike is important. To that end ...
I have replaced the clipped pedals with stomps. Removed water bottles and their holders, too. And added a small kickstand. Some lights, too. And this was, for me anyway, an improvement over the OEM.
I definitely want top brake levers (interrupters, maybe?) .
I also need good, safe 700c x 23c tires, as what it came with is well worn out. Maybe, Conti's.
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Seems like the people guessing it’s a 60 cm frame have never seen a 60 cm frame.
#39
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FWIW, OP went ahead and bought the bike, apparently w/o worrying too much about the size. Checking with a tape measure would have been so easy....
#40
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Why not just measure it?
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Thread moved from General Cycling to C&V.
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#42
That looks very clean. I kind of remember those with the through tube routing. They only did that a season or two. I don’t think the entry and exit points are reinforced leading to area of potential stress riser.