Park Tools
05-24-24, 01:40 PM
#26
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Cool! But maybe not so much as "the most versatile tool we had in the 1970s" where the three arms were 8mm, 9mm and 10mm sockets. I should peel off the rubberized coating on the one I have, no idea if it's labeled Park or not. Of course, now you can build an entire bike using only Allen wrenches.
05-24-24, 06:12 PM
#27
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How good are the IKEA allen wrenches that they include with their DIY assembled furniture. I think I have a few of them collected over the decades :-)
05-24-24, 06:34 PM
#28
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05-24-24, 07:08 PM
#29
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There was a lovely thraggiegrads about the differences between hex wrenches:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-m...intensive.html
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06-02-24, 08:39 AM
#32
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That said, most any name brand tool will be just fine. You don’t need the most expensive iteration of any particular tool. My less-expensive frame and dropout alignment tools function the same as more expensive versions.
You may find that you prefer one manufacturer’s version of a tool over another. The Hozan fourth hand is, to me, far superior to the Park or Pedro’s versions, for example.
Last edited by smd4; 06-02-24 at 08:45 AM.
06-02-24, 09:25 AM
#33
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Cheap tools are for rich people who can afford to buy new tools and parts all the time. If there is a process you don't want to buy a tool for because you will only use it once then bring the bike to your local shop and have them take care of it. It is not a bad thing and could save you some time and hassle.
06-02-24, 11:12 AM
#34
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Are Park Tools still made in the USA? If China, then it may not matter if it's counterfeit, it's probably from the same factory anyway.
If your concern is durability, take a hacksaw to it. If it cuts easily, it's not tool steel. If the hacksaw blade won't bite, you're good to go
If your concern is durability, take a hacksaw to it. If it cuts easily, it's not tool steel. If the hacksaw blade won't bite, you're good to go
06-02-24, 12:50 PM
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The problem with counterfeits is you don't know if it matters until you know that it matters. Take your cone wrench for example. The real, name-brand tool (it's not just Park, could be Var, Pedro's etc.) is made of good quality steel. When you start to lock the cone down against the nut, it's going to hold. Some counterfeits may use similar steel; some others may use a cheap metal, and when you start to lock it down, the "tool" can deform and slip, and you bust your knuckles.
If you believe price trumps quality, buy the cheap knock-offs. Sometimes you'll win. Sometimes you'll bleed, or damage whatever you were working on.
If you believe price trumps quality, buy the cheap knock-offs. Sometimes you'll win. Sometimes you'll bleed, or damage whatever you were working on.
Other Park tools seem to be reasonably good quality, or in some cases exceptional quality.
06-02-24, 05:17 PM
#36
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After replacing my entire drivetrain and still having a weird rear shifting issue I finally broke down and got a derailleur alignment tool.
I've usually kept with genuine Park Tool but this time for a single use I went for the Toopre (on amazon) which, at less than half price, is pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing.
If anything, the welds are nicer on the Toopre than in the photos on Park Tools' website.
I've usually kept with genuine Park Tool but this time for a single use I went for the Toopre (on amazon) which, at less than half price, is pretty much indistinguishable from the real thing.
If anything, the welds are nicer on the Toopre than in the photos on Park Tools' website.
06-03-24, 07:06 AM
#37
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That's so far from my experience I have to wonder what the differences are between our experiences. I've been using a pair of DCW-1 (or is it -2?) and a SCW-17 for 15-20 years without any problems. I'm not working in a shop, mine get used on a couple bikes' wheels annually -- light duty. In addition, I only use mine on cones and lock nuts; I've got better tools for other uses. So when did you get yours, and how do you use them?
06-03-24, 08:41 AM
#38
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That's so far from my experience I have to wonder what the differences are between our experiences. I've been using a pair of DCW-1 (or is it -2?) and a SCW-17 for 15-20 years without any problems. I'm not working in a shop, mine get used on a couple bikes' wheels annually -- light duty. In addition, I only use mine on cones and lock nuts; I've got better tools for other uses. So when did you get yours, and how do you use them?
