Campagnolo Ergopower shifter body piece loose
05-26-24, 09:23 AM
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Campagnolo Ergopower shifter body piece loose
Hello, I have a pair of Xenon ergopower shifters on my bike. I recently replaced handlebars, and when I grabbed the hoods I noticed on the bottom of the left shifter there is a small piece is a bit loose.
I'm not sure what the part is called, but I've attached some photos of the shifter, with the loose part pushed to two different positions, so hopefully you can get an idea of what's going on.
It looks removable, perhaps to access internals. But it is also where my some of my fingers sit when I'm gripping the hoods and it moves when I move my fingers. I'm not sure if something is broken or if something needs to be tightened, or if this is expected and I just never noticed it. But it is not loose on the right shifter. It doesn't affect performance of shifting or braking. But it is annoying and I feel like I may break it further if it is loose. Anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks!
I'm not sure what the part is called, but I've attached some photos of the shifter, with the loose part pushed to two different positions, so hopefully you can get an idea of what's going on.
It looks removable, perhaps to access internals. But it is also where my some of my fingers sit when I'm gripping the hoods and it moves when I move my fingers. I'm not sure if something is broken or if something needs to be tightened, or if this is expected and I just never noticed it. But it is not loose on the right shifter. It doesn't affect performance of shifting or braking. But it is annoying and I feel like I may break it further if it is loose. Anyone know how to fix this?
Thanks!
05-26-24, 09:02 PM
#2
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9 Speed? Not sure, here's a link to the exploded diagram: https://www.disraeligears.co.uk/site...e_page_37.html
The part is EC-XE059 I think, but doesn't really give any indication on how it is secured.
The part is EC-XE059 I think, but doesn't really give any indication on how it is secured.
05-27-24, 04:31 AM
#3
Full Member
With the lever fully detached from the bar, the insert slides in from the "back".
They effectively sit on two keys which engage in shaped keyways on the right and left sides of the lever body - right and left are different.
This is a fairly old design, now, dating back to 2002 (in fact, the basic design goes a good deal further back than that, to 1994).
You are correct, removal gives access to the workings of the lever.
Part of the problem is that modern handlebars have a much tighter radius on the "hook" as they're shallower, so this part of the lever body isn't in contact with the bars to the same degree as it was on older patterns. Another element is that when taping the 'bars, a lot of mechanics don't realise that there is a dove-tail shaped recess in the insert and that the rubber hood has a corresponding dove-tail projection that is designed to key into it and reduce movement in both the hood (reduces the possibility of jamming on the thumb lever as it keeps the "slot" that the lever moves down in the hood aligned in some lever versions) and of that insert. In cases where, over a long period of time, the insert gets pushed from side to side by the rider's grip, the keyways that hold it in place can wear and you'll get additional movement.
Having said, that, there's some variability in how tight the fit is, into the lever bodies - when we service these levers we find some are quite loosely-fitted and practically fall out, others need more of a "pull" to remove.
It's unlikely to fail and with careful taping you can probably remove or greatly reduce the movement, which could get pretty annoying ...
They effectively sit on two keys which engage in shaped keyways on the right and left sides of the lever body - right and left are different.
This is a fairly old design, now, dating back to 2002 (in fact, the basic design goes a good deal further back than that, to 1994).
You are correct, removal gives access to the workings of the lever.
Part of the problem is that modern handlebars have a much tighter radius on the "hook" as they're shallower, so this part of the lever body isn't in contact with the bars to the same degree as it was on older patterns. Another element is that when taping the 'bars, a lot of mechanics don't realise that there is a dove-tail shaped recess in the insert and that the rubber hood has a corresponding dove-tail projection that is designed to key into it and reduce movement in both the hood (reduces the possibility of jamming on the thumb lever as it keeps the "slot" that the lever moves down in the hood aligned in some lever versions) and of that insert. In cases where, over a long period of time, the insert gets pushed from side to side by the rider's grip, the keyways that hold it in place can wear and you'll get additional movement.
Having said, that, there's some variability in how tight the fit is, into the lever bodies - when we service these levers we find some are quite loosely-fitted and practically fall out, others need more of a "pull" to remove.
It's unlikely to fail and with careful taping you can probably remove or greatly reduce the movement, which could get pretty annoying ...
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