jaxgtr

Changing out my X01 RD, XX1 chain, and 10-52 cassette with the Rival XPLR RD, flattop chain, and 10-44 cassette on my Checkpoint. Better gearing options for my area.

Note to Self: Ensure you get the 120 link chain, not the 114 link

Steel Charlie

The "new" 2004 Masi was shifting like crap so I hosed out and lubed the levers, shortened the housings at the levers, changed the cables and adjusted the whole thing properly. Shifts like a whiz now. Also changed the cassette for some lower gears and pulled 2(!) lbs worth of thorn proof tubes out of the tires. Rather significant performance gain there. New chain and bar tape on the way. Getting to be a pretty nice ride.

Clydesdale John

jaxgtr

So I have been struggling to get my second rear wheel to align properly on my CheckPoint when I want to run the second wheelset that has 32mm road tires. Found that the brake mount needed to be faced, so since I have no need to own that tool, I took it by the bike shop and they performed the surgery. Found the rear mount had a slight high spot as well as needing to use one spacer on the second wheel, so now all is good.

bharrisonb

Roadside flat tire repair while riding my 1971 Raleigh Sports ... ride with your toolkit, an extra tube, and the know-how to get the job done!

pjazz

I just bought a 2021 Bianchi Oltre XR4. First time with disc brakes. Tried my hand at bleeding the fronts. Fairly happy with results.

rsbob 

Installed a 4iiii single side power meter today. ‘
Their instructions on the process really suck, but got everything synched.

biker128pedal

I had a creaky sound. I thought I’d be the seat or the seat. This is usually the case in the past. Ended up being the rear speed on my Domane SL6. I hadn’t touched it since I got the bike in 2021.

Looks like some salt buildup and it was pretty dry. Few pictures did not remove the center sleeve was in their tight and did not want to download it.





Greased the bolt per the instructions. Also applied some grease after assembly. The red nut was stuck in and needed lubrication and persuasion to remove.

Troul 

that reminds me that I should order the plastic covers as I am sure it'll not come apart as intended...

biker128pedal

I had the same thought. I used a wooden tongue depressor with a knife sharpened end. You could use a popsicle stick. I started at the narrow end of the cover. Lifted it enough to wiggle the cover and started sliding the wood tool to a wider area. The cover has a cap shape over the bolt head. Slow at first but it walked off. Snapped back on easy and tight. Oh bolt torque is 8nm.

Pantah

Managed to chuck the quick link (7 speed) when I hit a very rumbly section of road going quite fast downhill, probably around 35mph. Didn't actually fully come off right then, it was hanging on just barely enough to make clicking noises each pass through the derailleur so I stopped pedaling until the road flattened out and the thing vanished when I put some actual load on the pedals to get through the intersection at the bottom of the hill to get to a good stopping point. Of course, I figured all this out once I came to a stop. It was also entirely avoidable, the last time I had the chain off, the quick link didn't give the usual confidence inspiring click when I reinstalled it. I thought about replacing it since I had spares but figured it was good for one more use. Nope. Quick and easy fix but I still had to coast down the rest of the hill and walk the 4 miles home because of course it was the one time I forgot my phone AND didn't have one of my spares in my seat bag.

Laducsp

A flat! Living and riding in San Francisco, my most recent cycling-related repair is almost always a flat!

bharrisonb

Today's flat ... on the road ... 3 times! As described here

jaxgtr

Changing crank arms on my Emonda going from GXP to DUB, which also requires a change in bottom brackets.

hidetaka

I finally got around to replacing FD-6800 with FD-7000. The old one was working fine (better really, it had much lighter actuation) but the low limit screw was totally seized and I didn't want to be bikeless while tinkering with it. Gotta say the new system is way more complicated, even following the instructions I was never 100% sure what was happening >.< In the end I managed to make it work, now to loosen that old limit screw...

jaxgtr

After I replaced the brakes on my Checkpoint, had some light brake rotor rub on the front wheel on both wheels sets. I found I needed to run a spacer to eliminate it, glad I ordered those, so I had them on hand.

downtube42

I had this exact symptom on my year-old 2022 SL 6 Domane (at 3,400 miles).

Putting my bike back together after a 1200km brevet and flight home, I noticed the brow cover (aka lower headtube cover) was sticking out just like your pic. The right side isospeed nut was super loose and pushing the cover out. The left side was well below torque spec. I tightened them per the service manual, for an upcoming ride. I think a full rebuild with Loctite is in order.

Much as I like the smooth ride, it's annoying to have another maintenance item.

biker128pedal

Pull the covers on the rear Isospeed and check for corrosion. I checked mine for the first time last month. I removed the special bolt and nut. Did not remove the internal sleeve they is really what rests against the rubber bumper. Cleaned the salt and corrosion off the nut and bolt. Greased it and reassembled. Then applied grease to the outside of the bolt head and nut. The manual shows the parts and specified maintenance. I have a Fuel EX8 there is much more maintenance. The torque is 8nm.


Page 21 of the manual.

https://trek.scene7.com/is/content/T...inal%20web.pdf

bampilot06

Straightened my hanger today, after I fell and bent it.

t2p

what type spacer(s) ?

moving the caliper a slight bit not an option ?

t2p

recommend falling on the left / non drive side

and don’t stick out your arm - can brake wrist / arm / collarbone … head can then take the hit … for me it’s just my cerebellum - as the Ramones famously said ‘ now I guess I’ll have to tell em that I got no cerebellum ‘

jaxgtr

No, I am running 2 wheelsets, and the new Red calipers seem to have a bit less tolerance for play in the rotor position, and the rotor was taping on the inside of the rotor. The shims pushed them out to center up nicely.

I got the shims from Boyd Cycling, although, you can find there elsewhere as well.

https://boydcycling.com/collections/...or-shim-4-pack