Road vs MTB pedals for gravel
#26
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No, that’s not the interesting part. What’s interesting to note in the context of this discussion where people are like, “absolutely, 100% MTB,” there are not only obvious riding conditions and routes where even putting a foot down is completely unneccessary, but pros who wear road shoes and ride road pedals for everthing from mild to wild gravel racing, and a few of “us ordinary guys” do to, putting the lie to the definitively expressed sentiment, “100% MTB.” MTB pedals are neither theoretically needed or better for all gravel riding, nor are they practically needed or better for all gravel riding.
Yeah, mtb can be best for some people. And yeah, road can be fine for some situations.
Your examples though, the ones where you cite what pros use and absolutely claim it's interesting(even though you now claim that it isn't what is interesting), aren't needed to support your good point.
Since you pulled uci elite pros into the conversation, I figured I would offer ip my view that what they do or don't do should have little to no impact on everyone else who actually pays for their gear.
In the case of paying for your gear and riding because it's a hobby and fun- riding what works best for you is the smart thing to do. So if that's road pedals, cool. If that's mtb pedals, cool.
When someone asks for guidance because they are starting at the beginning, don't be surprised to see people suggest something that elite uci pros don't do.
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Yeah, I’ think that’s true, but we’ve got great, gravel road riding, remembering that before Unbound, before Dirty Kanza, before gravel riding was big business, our Barry-Roubaix was the largest gravel race in the world, and still attracts thousands of riders every year. Other big gravel events include Michigan Mountain Mayhem Gravel Grinder, and the Coast to Coast 200, which Bicycling’s Selene Yeager declared in 2018 “might be as hard as the Dirty Kanza.” She’s podiumed both, as well as at SBT Gravel and Big Suga. And although it’s not strictly gravel (it’s open to MTB and fat), Iceman Cometh shares monument-like status with Barry Roubaix for graveleros who want to push the limit. Michigan’s own Jukebox/Enve pro rider, Alexey Vermuelen, who grew up riding many of the same gravel roads I do, has an Iceman victory to go with his BWR California win in ‘22, which he won soloing off the front in impressive style…in road pedals, FWIW.
Last edited by chaadster; 03-13-24 at 05:00 AM. Reason: Corrected year of Vermeulen’s win
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But elite UCI pros *do* use MTB pedals for gravel. Pauline Prevot won the inaugural women’s gravel world championship in ‘22 on MTB pedals/shoes.
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Because one doesn’t need to be a “monster” to not have to walk during a gravel ride. That’s the point. I prefer the feel, especially for the lateral stability, of road cleats, and since I can ride all over SE MI gravel roads until I’m exhausted without ever having to walk anywhere, I mostly use road pedals. I use MTB/SPD pedals sometimes— as I said before— primarily for extra peace of mind in the winter when it’s sloppy, icy, and treacherous to walk about should I need to for whatever reason.
I brought up the pros to highlight that road pedals give up nothing to SPD…if you’re actually riding. If you’re walking around so much on unrideable roads, trails, paths or whatever, the yeah, pick SPD I guess…maybe hiking boots and platform pedals would be better? Dunno… walking during a ride is for me more like .01% than “absolutely 100%,” just as it is for virtually every gravel rider in the lower peninsula of MI.
I brought up the pros to highlight that road pedals give up nothing to SPD…if you’re actually riding. If you’re walking around so much on unrideable roads, trails, paths or whatever, the yeah, pick SPD I guess…maybe hiking boots and platform pedals would be better? Dunno… walking during a ride is for me more like .01% than “absolutely 100%,” just as it is for virtually every gravel rider in the lower peninsula of MI.
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For us slow folks, who had to walk some rideable sections plugged up by slower folks ahead of us, having a MTB shoe was a good thing that day.
There is no one right answer for everyone, everywhere.
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#32
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Generally speaking, stack height is lower on road pedals, but maybe it depends on which pedal system are compared. Pedal thickness is also generally lower on road pedals, which can help prevent road strikes and improve ground clearance.
Hypothetically speaking, aerodynamics should be better with the road system, but there’s not much clear or definitive data there that I’m aware of. However, if optimizing for aero, everything we know points to road systems as likely having the advantage.
We already mentioned stability and the feeling of connection being better in road systems generally, but maybe that depends on the systems being compared.
As I’ve said a couple of times now, there’s probably not a lot in it either way performance-wise, which is why I found the absolute surety of comments like “100% MTB for gravel” to be interesting. I didn’t realize how much hike-a-bike people do…if that’s it.
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Good lord- when a comment is met with push back by multiple posters, maybe try to understand why, instead of immediately pushing back over and over.
Riding what works best for the individual is the important takeaway here. You say that and everyone else says that.
We all clearly disagree that what pros use should hold any value or weight, while you citing what pros use makes it seem like you think there is inherent value in what they use simply due to their pro status.
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...less or same, don't remember, it's been 6 years.
Anyways, there is a possible exception to the rule, for what it's worth. The pedal that replaced mine weighs basically the same too, so it's still possible to buy a Shimano brand spd that's light.
Then there are the titanium spindle light spd options, but in ever looked into em too much.
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No, you don’t understand, and you not only don’t understand what I’ve said, you don’t understand what others said, because more than one did *not* say use what works best, they said “100% MTB” for gravel, which does not mean “use what’s best,” it means use MTB pedals no matter what.
#36
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No, you don’t understand, and you not only don’t understand what I’ve said, you don’t understand what others said, because more than one did *not* say use what works best, they said “100% MTB” for gravel, which does not mean “use what’s best,” it means use MTB pedals no matter what.
post 2- If you plan to ride anything other than smooth gravel roads, go with MTB pedals.
...so road pedals for smooth gravel, which is what you said you do.
post 4- If the gravel conditions get sketchy or really steep, you might be walking. Easier walking in SPD shoes.
...so if conditions arent like this, then road pedals could work.
post 6- If you foresee any unintentional unclipping, non-dry surfaces, or any amount of walking on your routes, I'd go down the MTB pedal route. I prefer the SPD-sl road pedals/cleats as a pedaling system, but they are PITA to clip into on rough terrain or when the cleat gets full of mud or snow.
...so if conditions are dry and walking isnt a concern, then road pedals could work.
And then after you first responded, but before your second response...
Post 13- I too prefer road pedals, I like the stability and support of the wider cleat.
...so road pedals can work.
Post 14- I've noticed pretty much every gravel race (or event/ride) around here has been won on road pedals also - BUT - there is pretty much no walking or dismounting for these top guys and gals (Unbound aside).
...so road pedals can work.
Post 15- They should use products that suit them best, and if some of those products happen to mirror what some/many elite pros use, then cool.
...so road pedals can work.
You are correct, not everyone said 'use what is best for your riding style and conditions'. People responded with their opinion based on their experience and how they ride in their conditions. This is a message board and the thread is asking for opinions- dont be surprised that people offer up their opinions based on their experiences.
Before you chimed in, some posters said road pedals can work...and they said that while describing the riding conditions that you said you ride in.
Good lord.
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Before you first responded...
post 2- If you plan to ride anything other than smooth gravel roads, go with MTB pedals.
...so road pedals for smooth gravel, which is what you said you do.
post 4- If the gravel conditions get sketchy or really steep, you might be walking. Easier walking in SPD shoes.
...so if conditions arent like this, then road pedals could work.
post 6- If you foresee any unintentional unclipping, non-dry surfaces, or any amount of walking on your routes, I'd go down the MTB pedal route. I prefer the SPD-sl road pedals/cleats as a pedaling system, but they are PITA to clip into on rough terrain or when the cleat gets full of mud or snow.
...so if conditions are dry and walking isnt a concern, then road pedals could work.
And then after you first responded, but before your second response...
Post 13- I too prefer road pedals, I like the stability and support of the wider cleat.
...so road pedals can work.
Post 14- I've noticed pretty much every gravel race (or event/ride) around here has been won on road pedals also - BUT - there is pretty much no walking or dismounting for these top guys and gals (Unbound aside).
...so road pedals can work.
Post 15- They should use products that suit them best, and if some of those products happen to mirror what some/many elite pros use, then cool.
...so road pedals can work.
You are correct, not everyone said 'use what is best for your riding style and conditions'. People responded with their opinion based on their experience and how they ride in their conditions. This is a message board and the thread is asking for opinions- dont be surprised that people offer up their opinions based on their experiences.
Before you chimed in, some posters said road pedals can work...and they said that while describing the riding conditions that you said you ride in.
Good lord.
post 2- If you plan to ride anything other than smooth gravel roads, go with MTB pedals.
...so road pedals for smooth gravel, which is what you said you do.
post 4- If the gravel conditions get sketchy or really steep, you might be walking. Easier walking in SPD shoes.
...so if conditions arent like this, then road pedals could work.
post 6- If you foresee any unintentional unclipping, non-dry surfaces, or any amount of walking on your routes, I'd go down the MTB pedal route. I prefer the SPD-sl road pedals/cleats as a pedaling system, but they are PITA to clip into on rough terrain or when the cleat gets full of mud or snow.
...so if conditions are dry and walking isnt a concern, then road pedals could work.
And then after you first responded, but before your second response...
Post 13- I too prefer road pedals, I like the stability and support of the wider cleat.
...so road pedals can work.
Post 14- I've noticed pretty much every gravel race (or event/ride) around here has been won on road pedals also - BUT - there is pretty much no walking or dismounting for these top guys and gals (Unbound aside).
...so road pedals can work.
Post 15- They should use products that suit them best, and if some of those products happen to mirror what some/many elite pros use, then cool.
...so road pedals can work.
You are correct, not everyone said 'use what is best for your riding style and conditions'. People responded with their opinion based on their experience and how they ride in their conditions. This is a message board and the thread is asking for opinions- dont be surprised that people offer up their opinions based on their experiences.
Before you chimed in, some posters said road pedals can work...and they said that while describing the riding conditions that you said you ride in.
Good lord.
#38
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Well in the case of the OP, they have road pedals, so additional cost would be one.
Generally speaking, stack height is lower on road pedals, but maybe it depends on which pedal system are compared. Pedal thickness is also generally lower on road pedals, which can help prevent road strikes and improve ground clearance.
Hypothetically speaking, aerodynamics should be better with the road system, but there’s not much clear or definitive data there that I’m aware of. However, if optimizing for aero, everything we know points to road systems as likely having the advantage.
We already mentioned stability and the feeling of connection being better in road systems generally, but maybe that depends on the systems being compared.
As I’ve said a couple of times now, there’s probably not a lot in it either way performance-wise, which is why I found the absolute surety of comments like “100% MTB for gravel” to be interesting. I didn’t realize how much hike-a-bike people do…if that’s it.
Generally speaking, stack height is lower on road pedals, but maybe it depends on which pedal system are compared. Pedal thickness is also generally lower on road pedals, which can help prevent road strikes and improve ground clearance.
Hypothetically speaking, aerodynamics should be better with the road system, but there’s not much clear or definitive data there that I’m aware of. However, if optimizing for aero, everything we know points to road systems as likely having the advantage.
We already mentioned stability and the feeling of connection being better in road systems generally, but maybe that depends on the systems being compared.
As I’ve said a couple of times now, there’s probably not a lot in it either way performance-wise, which is why I found the absolute surety of comments like “100% MTB for gravel” to be interesting. I didn’t realize how much hike-a-bike people do…if that’s it.
I suppose we tend to look at things through the lens of our own experiences and situation. I wouldn't say that I do a lot of walking with my bike on my typical local gravel rides, but it happens occasionally. Events/races and a couple of group rides I've done have included more hiking than is typical for me. I use Speedplays on the road, and the cleats have a metal plate as the surface that contacts the ground when I walk in them. Those shoes are TERRIBLE for rock-hopping across a stream, which is a situation I sometimes encounter in my local area. I also don't want to muddy-up my pretty, white road shoes For me, running Speedplays on the road, and Eggbeaters in the dirt, with rigid-soled shoes, I don't really feel a difference in stack height or stability. On both, the platform I'm pushing against is the whole sole of my shoe. My Speedplays probably have better cornering clearance, but I haven't yet encountered a situation where that's a factor.
Comments I've heard from pros about choosing road shoes/cleats for a particular event have pretty much all referenced lighter weight as the reason. I wouldn't be surprised if Dylan Johnson referenced an aero advantage, however - LOL.
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#39
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I have spd a600 pedals on a road bike that weigh less than spd SL 105 road pedals.
...less or same, don't remember, it's been 6 years.
Anyways, there is a possible exception to the rule, for what it's worth. The pedal that replaced mine weighs basically the same too, so it's still possible to buy a Shimano brand spd that's light.
Then there are the titanium spindle light spd options, but in ever looked into em too much.
...less or same, don't remember, it's been 6 years.
Anyways, there is a possible exception to the rule, for what it's worth. The pedal that replaced mine weighs basically the same too, so it's still possible to buy a Shimano brand spd that's light.
Then there are the titanium spindle light spd options, but in ever looked into em too much.
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#40
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#41
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For sure, pedal and shoe combined needs to be taken into account. Wasnt disagreeing with your earlier comment, just trying to add to it since pedal weight was referenced.
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if you have top-of-the-line expensive carbon soled road shoes etc - good chance you will not want to walk on gravel and other similar surfaces
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I also came from road cycling. In the past, the only reason I considered using my road pedals for gravel racing was to use my powermeter on those pedals. But, I ended up going with MTB pedals as I was not 100% sure I wouldn't need to put a foot down. Since then, I 100% use MTB pedals. I ended up not really noticing the different between my really nice road pedal/shoe setup and my mid-range gravel shoe/MTB setup once the races or hard rides get going. I would only consider using road if I am sure I will not need to dismount.
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Additionally, I don't want mud on my clean, white road shoes.
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#45
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No, you don’t understand, and you not only don’t understand what I’ve said, you don’t understand what others said, because more than one did *not* say use what works best, they said “100% MTB” for gravel, which does not mean “use what’s best,” it means use MTB pedals no matter what.
Gravel riding often involves unexpected exploration and varied terrain; it only makes sense to use a pedal/shoe system which allows one to cross streams, traverse mudbogs, and push (or carry) the bike through terrain too rough to ride. (And yeah, I've done all of that and more on gravel rides and in races.)
You apparently stick to pretty tame gravel roads which don't ever require you to unclip and walk/wade/scramble, which makes you an outlier in gravel riding in my experience. Most of us do it differently.
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You guys done with the thread disruption or am I going to have to, eh, settle it?
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#49
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According to Shimano, also stiffness: STIFFNESS INDEX | SHIMANO GEAR
I'm really not sure what I am actually sacrificing with either of those shoes- they feel plenty stiff while also being comfortable.
I know both are less stiff than the stiffest road shoes in the market, but what does that actually translate to when they still feel stiff enough for my use? How.many watts am I giving up? What % fatigue would I save over 4 hours?
At some point, making a shoe stiffer than an already stiff shoe is a measurable outcome, but perhaps not a highly valuable outcome.
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According to Shimano, also stiffness: STIFFNESS INDEX | SHIMANO GEAR
The Bont Riot+ shoes I've been using have the same heat-moldable CF tub for both road and MTB variety.
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