Show us your builds
#127
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: England, currently dividing my time between university in Guildford and home just outside Reading
Posts: 1,921
Bikes: Too many to list here!
Likes: 0
Liked 4 Times
in
2 Posts
Agreed! It can be nasty stuff! I mean, it's the reason for 100% of tsunamis, for heaven's sake! It was also responsible for the sinking of the Titanic, and it regularly causes rivers to flood! Used wrongly, Dihydrogen Monoxide can kill!
#128
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Collegeville, PA
Posts: 1,350
Bikes: Ruckelshaus Randonneur, Specialized Allez (early 90's, steel), Ruckelshaus Path Bomber currently being built
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Here are some from #2, which I just got back from the painter yesterday, and built/test rode today. It's a 650b wheeled, SRAM Apex'd commuter/shopper/path bomber:
And the completed bike, a 650b wheeled commuter/shopper/path bomber:
Builder and built:
The entire album.
And the completed bike, a 650b wheeled commuter/shopper/path bomber:
Builder and built:
The entire album.
#129
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#130
Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Collegeville, PA
Posts: 1,350
Bikes: Ruckelshaus Randonneur, Specialized Allez (early 90's, steel), Ruckelshaus Path Bomber currently being built
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
Wow, for what I would call a true budget build, that looks amazing! Nice work! Did you use a jig, or did you freespace it?
Pete
Pete
#131
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 12
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I used the jig ideas from Talbot's book. Worked out pretty well. The downside of a first frame is that it took about 5 months of on-and-off work...lots of thinking and measuring. I think a second frame would go much faster.
Likes For graymanandy:
#135
Senior Member
I've been thinking about building a lightweight rando frame for use with the Rohloff Speedhub, and finally got around to it. Deda 8/5/8 with Everest lugs, Paragon sliders, and the Imperial oval fork blades and crown Jan Heine/Compass Cycles is selling.
#136
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Gainesville ffl
Posts: 12
Bikes: Alpine mirage, custom cruiser
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
An old alpine mirage that i coverted into a fixie. Did everything myself welded the brake mounts closed aswell as the bottle holder and cable mounts. I grinded of the derailer mount and the fender mounts. And i recently wrecked it goin down hill into a stump and it bent the steerer top and bottom tube to give it that track geometry i always wanted. The b43's didnt even get a scratch but she pulls to the left. So gettin that track frame soon sunnn.
Sorry for the crappy iphone pics was in a hurry
Sorry for the crappy iphone pics was in a hurry
#137
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
A little project I have been working on for some time but am just about ready for powdercoat... refitted my 1973 Phillip's 20 with rear stays and a fork taken from a Nishiki International which had a broken main tube and down tube. Stays and fork were of excellent quality with Suntour / Tange dropouts and as they came off a touring bike were just what I wanted for my separable touring bike.
Work was all free hand brazing and joining the old stays and new ones was accomplished by using chromoly sleeves / pins and the ends of the original chain and seat stays.
Added a few inches in the rear which will allow for better heel clearance and built up the fork with suspension correction in case I decide to go that route in the future and reduced the trail from the stock fork.
Increased the bb and pedal clearance which is an issue on 20's, especially when you run 175mm cranks and the bike should be a nice shade of British racing green after a little more clean up, detailing, and after I build custom racks.
Have been in test ride mode to ensure that the geometry is just right as I do not want to make any fork alterations after the powdercoating and figure I nailed it... the bike tracks and corners like it is on rails and is very stiff.
Looking pretty raw here and there is a little more work to be done... a few folks have said I should just clear coat the bike.
Work was all free hand brazing and joining the old stays and new ones was accomplished by using chromoly sleeves / pins and the ends of the original chain and seat stays.
Added a few inches in the rear which will allow for better heel clearance and built up the fork with suspension correction in case I decide to go that route in the future and reduced the trail from the stock fork.
Increased the bb and pedal clearance which is an issue on 20's, especially when you run 175mm cranks and the bike should be a nice shade of British racing green after a little more clean up, detailing, and after I build custom racks.
Have been in test ride mode to ensure that the geometry is just right as I do not want to make any fork alterations after the powdercoating and figure I nailed it... the bike tracks and corners like it is on rails and is very stiff.
Looking pretty raw here and there is a little more work to be done... a few folks have said I should just clear coat the bike.
#138
Junior Member
Join Date: Jul 2011
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Finally done! www.flickr.com/photos/timdude
#139
Decrepit Member
Finally done! www.flickr.com/photos/timdude
#140
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 10
Bikes: 1989 Miyata 914, 2008 Quintana Roo Seduza Tri
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Custom Built Carbon TT "Sort of Funny" Bike
Just finished my first ever frame build...and I now have IMMENSE respect of those that do this for a living. This was a very difficult process and the level of thought and attention to detail that went into constructing this frame was almost beyond description. I'll post some details of how I built it in the next few weeks, as well as some feedback on how it rides....as I plan to start riding it this week.
The bike is a 700c Rear and 650c front in order to help lower the front end and get me in a better aero position...plus the frontal area is reduced. The old 24" funny bikes just looked....well....funny so I didn't go that route.
The frame consists of high modulus carbon tubes which were mitered and bonded and then the joints were wrapped with carbon strips. The rear end is a Deda Firebox (customized to mount to BB30) and the fork is an Advanced Composites Aero unit with an aluminum steerer. The bare frame before paint and cable guides, etc. weighed in at just over 2 pounds and just under 3 pounds when I started bolting parts on it. The bike as pictured weighs 16.8 pounds...only pedals missing.
[IMG][/IMG]
The bike is a 700c Rear and 650c front in order to help lower the front end and get me in a better aero position...plus the frontal area is reduced. The old 24" funny bikes just looked....well....funny so I didn't go that route.
The frame consists of high modulus carbon tubes which were mitered and bonded and then the joints were wrapped with carbon strips. The rear end is a Deda Firebox (customized to mount to BB30) and the fork is an Advanced Composites Aero unit with an aluminum steerer. The bare frame before paint and cable guides, etc. weighed in at just over 2 pounds and just under 3 pounds when I started bolting parts on it. The bike as pictured weighs 16.8 pounds...only pedals missing.
[IMG][/IMG]
Last edited by mattradaz; 08-01-11 at 01:33 PM. Reason: Typo
#141
Cisalpinist
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Holland
Posts: 5,557
Bikes: blue ones.
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
The frame consists of high modulus carbon tubes which were mitered and bonded and then the joints were wrapped with carbon strips. The rear end is a Deda Firebox (customized to mount to BB30) and the fork is an Advanced Composites Aero unit with an aluminum steerer. The bare frame before paint and cable guides, etc. weighed in at just over 2 pounds and just under 3 pounds when I started bolting parts on it. The bike as pictured weighs 16.8 pounds...only pedals missing.
[[/IMG]
[[/IMG]
#142
Junior Member
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Phoenix, AZ
Posts: 10
Bikes: 1989 Miyata 914, 2008 Quintana Roo Seduza Tri
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Italuminum,
I had many issues to work through as well...and I did end up using off the shelf tubes from Rock West Composites. All my notes are at my shop (so is the bike) but I'm certain I used the same size tube for the top/seat tubes (1.4 OD?) and used a bit larger tube (1.625 OD) for the downtube. I just used the standard .065" thickness tubes. I had some tell me to use a thinner tube, but for the minimal difference in weight and the added safety factor of the thicker tubing, I thought it was the way to go.
My biggest issue was getting the geometry correct with the 650c front wheel "curve ball" thrown in. It looks right....but I'll see how she handles when I ride it for the first time tomorrow.
Here's a few more pics...
I had many issues to work through as well...and I did end up using off the shelf tubes from Rock West Composites. All my notes are at my shop (so is the bike) but I'm certain I used the same size tube for the top/seat tubes (1.4 OD?) and used a bit larger tube (1.625 OD) for the downtube. I just used the standard .065" thickness tubes. I had some tell me to use a thinner tube, but for the minimal difference in weight and the added safety factor of the thicker tubing, I thought it was the way to go.
My biggest issue was getting the geometry correct with the 650c front wheel "curve ball" thrown in. It looks right....but I'll see how she handles when I ride it for the first time tomorrow.
Here's a few more pics...
#143
Cisalpinist
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Holland
Posts: 5,557
Bikes: blue ones.
Likes: 0
Liked 17 Times
in
12 Posts
Italuminum,
I had many issues to work through as well...and I did end up using off the shelf tubes from Rock West Composites. All my notes are at my shop (so is the bike) but I'm certain I used the same size tube for the top/seat tubes (1.4 OD?) and used a bit larger tube (1.625 OD) for the downtube. I just used the standard .065" thickness tubes. I had some tell me to use a thinner tube, but for the minimal difference in weight and the added safety factor of the thicker tubing, I thought it was the way to go
Here's a few more pics...
I had many issues to work through as well...and I did end up using off the shelf tubes from Rock West Composites. All my notes are at my shop (so is the bike) but I'm certain I used the same size tube for the top/seat tubes (1.4 OD?) and used a bit larger tube (1.625 OD) for the downtube. I just used the standard .065" thickness tubes. I had some tell me to use a thinner tube, but for the minimal difference in weight and the added safety factor of the thicker tubing, I thought it was the way to go
Here's a few more pics...
#145
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2009
Posts: 970
Bikes: 1989 Dahon Stainless Classic III Folder - 1990 Dahon Mariner Classic III Folder - 2005 Dahon Jetstream P8 Full Suspension Folder
Likes: 0
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
What do you get when a Dahon folder gets drunk with a couple of OCC StingRays?
A Folding Pugsley (Fugsley)!!! https://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/vie...p?f=21&t=44315
Hopefully welding will start this weekend!
Virtual Mockup
Actual Mockup
Old and new wheels. 16x1.5 versus 20x4!!!!
A Folding Pugsley (Fugsley)!!! https://www.ratrodbikes.com/forum/vie...p?f=21&t=44315
Hopefully welding will start this weekend!
Virtual Mockup
Actual Mockup
Old and new wheels. 16x1.5 versus 20x4!!!!
#147
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
The actual brazing is the easy part and I figured that out in short order... anyone can weld but not anyone understands the dynamics of geometry and frame materials.
#148
Decrepit Member