6spd to 5spd on 126mm hub - what spacers do I need?
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6spd to 5spd on 126mm hub - what spacers do I need?
I would like to put a Regina 5spd freewheel on a 126mm Campy rear hub (that presently has a Regina standard 6spd freewheel on it). I assume this is possible with spacers of some kind. Could anyone help me with the size and thickness of spacer I need to be getting and which side of the freewheel they are normally put?
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No spacers are needed, you'll just end up with a lot of space between the small cog and the chainstay/dropout. Be sure to adjust your rear derailleur so that you won't drop the chain off into that gap.
Now if you really want to go all-out, you could shift some axle spacers from the drive side to the non-drive side, and redish the wheel to reduce the dish. Don't think I'd bother.
Now if you really want to go all-out, you could shift some axle spacers from the drive side to the non-drive side, and redish the wheel to reduce the dish. Don't think I'd bother.
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'Zactly what Ex Pres said. Shifting some spacers to reduce wheel dish might let you improve the chainline too but I probably wouldn't bother with that either unless it was problematic to start with.
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+1 Zero!
verktyg
Chas.
verktyg
Chas.
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That's something I'd do, but I often can't leave well enough alone.
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I dunno, 400k<24 hrs, that'd be enough for me!
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Right? Yet, my rando bike has gone back to a pile of parts, because the urge to tinker is too strong.
#12
incazzare.
Everyone's explained how, but my question is: Why? Not trying to be a snot, just wondering why you wouldn't want one more cog back there if you can have it?
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Perhaps the 5 spd was cheap.
I'd just use it as-is, so there is less work reversing it later if you choose to go with more gears.
Most 5 speed setups had some extra space to the right of the freewheel where one could drop the chain. But, it also gave a little extra spring tension to the derailleur.
With my current 9 speed (126mm), there is absolutely no space to drop the chain.
I'd just use it as-is, so there is less work reversing it later if you choose to go with more gears.
Most 5 speed setups had some extra space to the right of the freewheel where one could drop the chain. But, it also gave a little extra spring tension to the derailleur.
With my current 9 speed (126mm), there is absolutely no space to drop the chain.
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Well, that's one way to stop you!
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The reason I ask is in answer to the above question. A friend rides a SS 29er. He doesn't want to mess with all the speeds in a normal cassette, but he would like to have a set up where he could get some more top end and also a bail out gear. Obviously he would need a hanger for his SS to make it work.
It is funny, I have ridden with him on road bikes and I have never seem anyone shift as few times as he does.
John
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I would like to find a narrow body freewheel and load it with 16-20-24t cogs for my flatland rides. It is all that I need around here. I'm doing it mechanically now by screwing in the adjuster screws to catch the inner 3 cogs of a 5 speed freewheel.
Time on my hands and a desire to futz.
Time on my hands and a desire to futz.
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I would like to find a narrow body freewheel and load it with 16-20-24t cogs for my flatland rides. It is all that I need around here. I'm doing it mechanically now by screwing in the adjuster screws to catch the inner 3 cogs of a 5 speed freewheel.
Time on my hands and a desire to futz.
Time on my hands and a desire to futz.
#18
incazzare.
Actually I would like to find out what the fewest number of cogs that can be run... 3? 4? Will a RD limit screws adjust to 3 or 4 cogs?
The reason I ask is in answer to the above question. A friend rides a SS 29er. He doesn't want to mess with all the speeds in a normal cassette, but he would like to have a set up where he could get some more top end and also a bail out gear. Obviously he would need a hanger for his SS to make it work.
It is funny, I have ridden with him on road bikes and I have never seem anyone shift as few times as he does.
John
The reason I ask is in answer to the above question. A friend rides a SS 29er. He doesn't want to mess with all the speeds in a normal cassette, but he would like to have a set up where he could get some more top end and also a bail out gear. Obviously he would need a hanger for his SS to make it work.
It is funny, I have ridden with him on road bikes and I have never seem anyone shift as few times as he does.
John
Sounds like a good project for an IGH?
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#20
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Most 3 speed and some 4 speed freewheels used 1/8" wide chains which may not play nice with your derailleurs and chainrings...
@70sSanO Your ludite friend my have a fear of mechanical things....
Back in the 70's there was a lot of animosity??? between runners and bikies. A lot of runners seemed to be technophobic!
If you only want 3 speed than go to an internal hub... (better yet, a Torpedo or Bendix 2 speed...) Then you could get an adapter to install a 3 speed freewheel plus a rear derailleur and that would give you 9 speeds... And then....
I bought my 1st 10 speed in Japan in 1964. It was a Bridgestone in the French randonneur style with Weinmann brakes, a Wright leather saddle an Huret derailleurs.
The Japanese Shinkansen "bullet train" past through the outskirts of our town. It ran at 200+ Kph (130 Mph). The local express trains were no slouches either - they past by at 120 Kph (80 Mph). I had to cross those tracks in several places on my regular rides.
The Huret derailleurs were hard to shift... On several occasions I found myself trying to get across the tracks with a train coming... The bell would start ringing as the gate dropped and about 30 seconds later (or so it seemed) the train would come rolling through.
High pucker factor!
I had the shop where I bought my bike put in a Shimano 3 speed internal gear hub. That gave me a 30 speed bike with about a 19" low gear and 120" high gear!
I could pop wheelies with it low/low gear plus with the 3 speed thumb shifter I could shift without worrying about jamming or dropping a chain! (old Huret derailleurs)
verktyg
Chas.
@70sSanO Your ludite friend my have a fear of mechanical things....
Back in the 70's there was a lot of animosity??? between runners and bikies. A lot of runners seemed to be technophobic!
If you only want 3 speed than go to an internal hub... (better yet, a Torpedo or Bendix 2 speed...) Then you could get an adapter to install a 3 speed freewheel plus a rear derailleur and that would give you 9 speeds... And then....
I bought my 1st 10 speed in Japan in 1964. It was a Bridgestone in the French randonneur style with Weinmann brakes, a Wright leather saddle an Huret derailleurs.
The Japanese Shinkansen "bullet train" past through the outskirts of our town. It ran at 200+ Kph (130 Mph). The local express trains were no slouches either - they past by at 120 Kph (80 Mph). I had to cross those tracks in several places on my regular rides.
The Huret derailleurs were hard to shift... On several occasions I found myself trying to get across the tracks with a train coming... The bell would start ringing as the gate dropped and about 30 seconds later (or so it seemed) the train would come rolling through.
High pucker factor!
I had the shop where I bought my bike put in a Shimano 3 speed internal gear hub. That gave me a 30 speed bike with about a 19" low gear and 120" high gear!
I could pop wheelies with it low/low gear plus with the 3 speed thumb shifter I could shift without worrying about jamming or dropping a chain! (old Huret derailleurs)
verktyg
Chas.
__________________
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Last edited by verktyg; 09-14-15 at 06:01 PM.
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FYI - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29
N700 (Nozomi-chan) does about 185 MPH between Kyoto and Shin-Yokohama on the Tokaido line.
JRWest won't let you cross in front of it, though. And you wouldn't want to.
N700 (Nozomi-chan) does about 185 MPH between Kyoto and Shin-Yokohama on the Tokaido line.
JRWest won't let you cross in front of it, though. And you wouldn't want to.
#22
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FYI - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nozomi_%28train%29
N700 (Nozomi-chan) does about 185 MPH between Kyoto and Shin-Yokohama on the Tokaido line.
JRWest won't let you cross in front of it, though. And you wouldn't want to.
N700 (Nozomi-chan) does about 185 MPH between Kyoto and Shin-Yokohama on the Tokaido line.
JRWest won't let you cross in front of it, though. And you wouldn't want to.
https://upload.wikimedia.org/wikiped...001_Table1.png
They used the Shinkansen Series 0 trains:
"The first Shinkansen trains ran at speeds of up to 200 km/h (125 mph), later increased to 220 km/h (135 mph)."
SHINKANSEN HISTORY - Go Japan Go
I could never understand why they had RR crossings on those fast train lines???
verktyg san
Chas.
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Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
Don't believe everything you think! History is written by those who weren't there....
Chas. ;-)
#23
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I would like to put a Regina 5spd freewheel on a 126mm Campy rear hub (that presently has a Regina standard 6spd freewheel on it). I assume this is possible with spacers of some kind. Could anyone help me with the size and thickness of spacer I need to be getting and which side of the freewheel they are normally put?
It was quite common to mount 5 speed freewheels on 126mm hubs... For example, when 126mm hubs became popular, 14-34T freewheels were only readily available in 5 speed versions... Or if someone had a box of freewheels and wanted to change to a bigger or smaller one.
There shouldn't be any problems. What I'd recommend is putting a 1mm or 1.5mm STEEL spacer behind the freewheel when you screw it onto the hub. This gives you a little insurance from sucking a derailleur into the spokes.
It may be hard to find one today. They were used on SA 3 speed hubs and for re-spacing the fixed cup on BBs and of course for spacing FWs.
I don't recommend aluminum spacers because I've squished them out from behind the FW several times honking up a steep hill!
I'm such an animal!!!
Verktyg
Chas.
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