davfink

I just rebuilt my drivetrain, moving up from 10s to 11s, and with Shimano R8000 components and added a DA chain in the mix.

i ended up "stepping" on the pedals a couple times, this created a clicking noise, at the same spot in the chain, which lead to the chain skipping at that same clicking noise.
so, applying too much torque to the chain can cause a fresh DA chain to stretch so much, or damage the chain.

When i got home, the chain was binding in the spot it was skipping, so i guess a DA chain down the tubes.
I am thinking of ordering an ultegra chain, hoping the extra weight will mean it is more solid to withstand use.

is this a normal thing?

Iride01 

Usually when a new chain skips on the cogs or rings, it's because the cog or ring is worn out.

Have you actually measured the new chain to see if it's worn and now out of tolerance?

What you are interpreting as binding of the link might just be the space between the teeth being too worn for a chain with the proper pitch.

roadcrankr

Is this occurring near the drive pin? Even if elsewhere, it sounds like a stiff link.
Firmly grab the chain a few inches from the kink and massage it sideways, to and fro.
FYI...chains do not stretch. Not even after hundreds of miles.

davfink

not yet. the chain has like 50 miles on it, now about 80 miles.
only the front chainring is not new. rear cassette is new,

Bill Kapaun

Rotate the crank backwards slowly and observe the RDER.
It'll "twitch" noticeably when a stiff link goes through.

HillRider

Did you join the chain with the Shimano supplied joining pin or a quick link? If it was with the pin, I expect you didn't install it correctly. They aren't that tricky but there is a technique to do it right. DA chains are very good and I expect there was an installation problem.

cxwrench

Sounds like you didn't close the joining link completely. I'd look at that first. And of course chains don't stretch.

You mean joining pin? The 11 speed chains don't have a pin, they use a link.
Again...these chains use a link not a pin.

roadcrankr

We don't know that he used an 11-sp chain, do we? He said 901 chain - whatever that is.

SalsaShark

Are your chainrings worn. This sounds like a new chain not meshing properly with a worn ring. You said you have a new cassette and chain, but maybe your front rings are worn out - this would cause the symptoms you describe, of skipping under high power.

cxwrench

You really did just post that...unbelievable. The HG 901 is the 11 speed D/A-XTR chain. It's always good to know what you're talking about when posting on the internet.

roadcrankr

I forgot you're a so-called professional mechanic that knows everything.
Same condescending schtick you pulled on a daily basis at roadbikereview.
You should be proud that you helped contribute to that website's demise.
From what I can tell, you're continuing your best to ruin this group. Thanks.

squirtdad

no sure where you are getting off. OP said 11 speed specifically and DA chain, and 901 is the DA chain so you call the guy who corrected you condescending? 38 posts in?

Camilo

Back to the issue. As others have clearly recommended or implied, the OP should first just go through the chain link by link and see if one is tight. I dont' know if they have done that yet? In the OP he said he was ready to trash an expensive chain for what's probably a minor easily corrected issue then later said he hasn't checked anything. I hope he updates.

cxwrench

Yeah, you're right, that's my goal. But with nearly 1800 likes (whatever they're worth) I don't think I'm doing too much damage. Members that post polite yet incorrect advice cause more problems than I do.

davfink

it is the HG 901 D/A 11s chain. current 11s chain available.
it has the quicklink, and not pin.
there is a binding on one pin, and it is not near the quicklink, and it is i think from too much force one time.
yes, the front chainring is not new. i am working on trying to decide a new front chainring, but the mileage is about 2000. the visual wear tests on the front chainring show no issues. no lifting, no spacing, no looseness. shifts clean.

I will post a video shortly. I thought this video was better, but once uploaded to YT. it loses quality. you can hear it click, and skip.

I have applied force on prior chains, the ultegra and 105 level chains with no issues in the past.
And by force, i mean going from lighter riding to a hard sitting sprint. not from a stop to a standing jump on the pedals

roadcrankr

From my parts bin. Shimano sold the HG901 with pins - and no quicklink - for a good spell. And tell me if anybody ever shouted out, "Hey, get me a 901 chain." Nope. They say Dura Ace 11 speed. Gosh, I am so damaging with my poor advice.

ClydeClydeson

I don't doubt that a defective chain is possible, or that OP has one, but the claim that OP 'stretched' the chain by applying too much torque is nonsense. Total nonsense. Even chains that are 'stretched' after thousands of miles are not so because of excessive torque but are elongated because of wear inside the links.

Crankycrank

NO and NO. Take the advice of the previous posters and check/correct any other causes. There is a slight possibility that the chain is defective or a counterfeit and a poor one at that but I suspect something else is to blame.

Camilo

have you tried to loosen that tight link? Why not? Rather than tell you how, simply search "how to loosen a tight chain link". I am having a hard time believing that you have actually considered trashing such an expensive good quality chain after virtually zero miles, and a chain ring after only 2,000 miles. And you think that a lay-person's force could harm a new chain? Do you think a pro would? Really?

davfink

I have a video of the chain in action. not the best, but what i could grab while riding.

on you tube

YNxrVuVgF9k
or shimano dura ace chain skipping with the blue shoes.

I tried a bunch of things to try and unbind.
cleaned
re-lubed.
tried the moving, flexing, etc on the list to loosen a stuck link.
no impact.

i pulled the stuck pin, and there seems to be a slight burr that formed on it causing the stickiness.

In terms of comparing to real vs fake chains, and source, this chain should be legit. proper packaging, marks, legit bike store, hollow pins, chain markings, etc.

I am also asking, since DA are run by pros, but i presume dumped after each race/day if the lightness leads to a weaker chain, and dumping this and replacing with a lower level chain will provide more life.

or do i just stick in a couple more master links and wait for it to do it again?

Crankycrank

With Shimano and most others you're paying extra for lighter weight and nicer finish. Performance and durability for the next lower 3 or so tiers is the same.
Yes, just stick another quick link on there and ride it till it wears out or I'm sure there are plenty of other posters here that will take it off your hands for you so it doesn't go to waste.

ClydeClydeson

If the chains are so weak that a lay-person can damage it in 50km then a pro would absolutely tear it in half the first time they went up a hill. Even changing after every ride (which they don't generally do) wouldn't be a useful strategy if the chain failed under heavy riding forces before the end of a stage.

Defective chain? Possibly. Installation error? Also possible. Rough shifting under load causing damage to a link? That can happen too. You're so strong you damaged the chain with your massive torque? Not in a million years.

davfink

you underestimate me sir. LOL. J/k.

lets hope for installation error or rough shifting, throw a couple quicklinks in for now and go again.

Andrew R Stewart 

This, Cog teeth can cause a burr on a chain link from too much pressure when shifting or when the chain isn't fully settled in the teeth valleys. Not very common but I do see this a few times a year (out of hundreds+ bikes I touch annually). And the tighter tolerances, of the "too many cogs in the same space as fewer cogs use to be in" current specs we want, only make the chain's lateral location WRT the teeth tops even more critical.

My speculation is that the OP caused this burr with poor chain management reasons when they really went hard on the pedals. If the chain was not fully settled in the teeth valleys it would try REALLY HARD to do so when the added pedal force was applied. Andy