Bicycle Addict

Sorry BD, I meant front mech, I had the same problem on a build for a tourist, went to I think a 105 and it worked beautifully. The throw is different between road and mountain, in most cases a road front Mech is needed.
I for this reason have one bike in set up with Sora 3500, and a retro group on one that is RSX, although that is on a small Trek Multitrack, that like most of my bikes needs to be finished.

Anyway that bike will look and ride great in the config you are now going for.

Bikedued

I already have a few blue bits on it. Skewers, pop lock adjuster knob, cable receiver on the fork crown, and just added the blue headset spacers from the Raleigh. The blue anodized riser bar will take it to another level. I just need a blue seatpost to make it complete. If I could have used the derailleur that I used on the Specialized HR 29er and Raleigh, it would have worked out the way I wanted it to. Nothing wrong with it being a nice mtb again.,,,,BD

Bicycle Addict

Not a bad thing at all mate.
And, well now you have an excuse to build another bike!
Fortunately I am lucky to have about 32 reasons back logged!

Bikedued

Well, honestly just building a new handlebar setup. Yeah, my backlog needs to be reduced by about 20. I have WAY too many half done bikes, frames, and components in the garage. It's getting ridiculous. No one seems to buy frames anymore. I ended up practically giving three or four away at the end of the last bike swap, just so I wouldn't have to take them home.,,,,BD

Bicycle Addict

I have been idea throwing with a Sora 3500 group (well most of) on a couple of frames, one a 94-95 frame made for a NZ bike company by the name of Yak, this is a frame and for that I got for $1 on our auction site over here, the 2nd a '98 Specialized Rockhopper which I personally prefer with the modernness of the Sora, I may change out the fork to the Black one on the Yak, unsure as of yet.
Anyway these are the best pics I have below.
so I have one photo done, the other I took on my Samsung phone and then uploaded to my computer, then tried to upload it and nothing happened, so I will retake it tomorrow and then re load and see what happens.
this pic is old and the Brifters are now on some compact bars, my plan with either frame was always going to be installing a smaller large ring on the front as I will be running a 34 tooth on the rear. 2 x 9 should be quite nice for what I want it for which is road and light off road riding, saddle is now sitting more level too.
wheels are off my commuter, now running Schwalbe Road Cruiser tyres which I like

Bicycle Addict

Here is a pic of the Rockhopper with the bars and brifters for an idea.

Bikedued

Done deal. Soon to have a fully functioning 29er. Without drop bars of course, but.,,,,BD

Good deals at chain reacton, plus free shipping. Not too shabby....

robl110

Hi all,
I have a 1998 Nishiki Pinnacle. I just purchased a set of Salsa Woodchipper 2 drop bars. Next I need shifter/brake levers for the drop bar.
Front and rear derailleur Shimano Deore LX 3x8. What do I need to know when shopping? What's compatible?
Thanks,
Rob

Bicycle Addict

Hi Rob,
Welcome aboard, if you go brifters (barke and shifter combos) you will need to run a road front derailleur as the Roadbike shifter "throw" won't work with a Mountain front der, if you read Bikedueds post above you will see this. If you are wanting to stay with the LX front shifter you will need to go Barcons(Barend shifters)
Apart from that the rest is plain sailing.

robl110

Thanks!

hankaye

Howdy All;

robl110 brought up an interesting question. Well at least to me ...
What shifters work with what ... and doing one of these conversions what do
need to consider? Being new to this type of converting things it becomes essential
and good to know this kind of stuff. I like what Miele Man did with the friction
shifters on pg. 201 but now there is this question about their suitability or not ...
Thanks for your learned thoughts.

hank

Bicycle Addict

Hi Hank, as I said above it depends,
if you are wanting with a front and rear derailleur off a Mountain( ie Shimano Deore, LX, XT.) bike you are going to need to go for end shifters.
If you are ok with going for a road bike front derailler you can run just about any shifter including Brifters such as RSX or Sora, or Tiagra or 105, Ultegra.

Spend a bit of time reading through this thread, you will learn everything you will need to know.

Bicycle Addict

So, I have changed out the fork for one with a bit more curve as the original was quite straight, and had the frame sit a little higher, and still have to try the black fork off the other bike I have pictured above.

mrv 

a few primary considerations ( i think...)
- is the rear derailleur indexing compatible? (circa 1987 I think everything is "indexable")
- if you're running friction, then, of course, no worries on indexing
- there may be (will be?) issues trying to get Campy indexing and Shimano indexing to work together
- do you have the right width chain? a 9-spd chain will likely have problems on a 6-spd cassette
- do you need a long cage derailleur? say, if you're running a wide gear range and need to keep proper tension in the chain.

my personal preference are indexed bar-end shifters (aka bar-cons for Suntour fans). i have no idea why i would need more than 8 sprockets on my cassette, and i would likely be fine with 5 or 6.
https://goo.gl/photos/dWY7zbBkWffWgky26 ~ my TourHopper (or CommuteHopper or GravelHopper or CoffeeHopper or "my bike")
that's my 2 cents and worth a quarter of it.
mark

hankaye

mrv, Howdy;

The bike in question is shown in post #5000 back on pg. 200. Basically, a 1995 Spec. Stumpjumper FS.
I linked the page from "Know your Bike" for anyone to see what came with it originally. Shifters had been
swapped out as can be seen in one of the photos to Shimano DX rapid fires w/ brakes.
Thanks for the reply and further considerations.

hank

hankaye

Bicycle Addict, Howdy;

In the thread above I mentioned that I'd posted the pix and spec. sheet info back on pg. 200 in post 5000,
I also mentioned what a looooong thread this has become. Thought the inference might carry that I'd read it
all, took 2 weeks at a few hours in the evenings but I have read all of them. Trouble is, as a newbie, It still
bears several questions whenever something "new" pops up as not all has sorted itself out yet. Perhaps to
someone that has been working on bikes for a few years it all falls into place as you go along. For me, at
least, I require asking a few questions to fill in the corners that, among the knowledgeable, are already
stuffed with the required info. So, please bear with me as I attempt to flatten the learning curve from _I to /
or lower (hopefully).
Thanks for your patience.

hank

BigSung

Hey Hank, welcome. I recently went through a conversion myself on a 87 Schwinn Cimarron. Here's what I learned.

Shifters:
Fundamentally there are 2 main options: 1) bar end shifters, or 2) brifters. There are many other alternatives such as using combination of the #1 and #2. Some have fitted thumb mtb shifters, etc... but I will stay away from those.

There are pros and cons of installing bar end vs. brifters. Basically it has to do with issue with Front Derailleur. Road and Mtn shifters' cable pull is different. Therefore, a road brifter does not pull enough cable for a mtn front derailleur to cover 3 chainrings of a mtn. crankset. In order for this to work, then you will need to use road brifter with road front derailleur, and even then it might not be perfect due to the positioning of road crankset vs. mtn. crankset. Road crankset is slightly more inboard than the mtn. crankset. The road brifter has no issues with rear drivetrain (rear derailleur and rear cassette).

In order to bypass the front derailleur issue, most folks like to use bar end shifters for the front (left side) with everything else mtn. components (mtn. front derailleur, mtn. crankset). The front bar end shifter is friction (pull based) and thus you can fine tune your shifting. Since bar end shifter is used for the front, they also use bar end shifter for the rear.

Personally for me, I prefer brifter for shifting. So I went with a hybrid model, where I am using RSX brifter for the right side (rear shifting) and I am using bar end shifter for the left side (front shifting). It's much more costly to go this route as you have purchase additional components. Here's a summary of my parts:
Shifter, right (rear) - Shimano RSX brifter
Shifter, left (front) - Shimano SL-BS64 bar end shifter
Brake lever, right - Shimano RSX brifter
Brake lever, left - Cane Creek SCR-5
Derailleur, front - Shimano XT FD-M730
Derailleur, rear - Shimano XT RD-M771 (it's a 9 speed but works fine as a 7 speed)
Crankset - Shimano LX triple crankset, 46/36/24
Cassette - Shimano HG-50 11-34T 7 speed

Hope that helps.

hankaye

BigSung, Howdy;

Thanks for the information. I liked what I saw Miele Man did with the conversion of Shimano friction shifters
and adapting them to work on the brake leaver mounts. That's back on pg. 201 post #5007.

So, when Bike Addict said, " if you are wanting with a front and rear derailleur off a Mountain( ie Shimano Deore,
LX, XT.) bike you are going to need to go for end shifters."

Am I correct in my presumption that a Shimano friction shifter will work for both Front and Rear D's if stem
mounted and bar-end function the same just different locations?

link to spec. sheet is in my signature.

Thanks.

hank

superstring

Well, actually I finished it awhile ago. I just got around to taking some pics.

Swapped the WTB Dirtdrops for Midge On-Ones, the tires for WTB 1.5 Slicks and the 11 - 34 XT rear cluster for a 12 - 28 Ultegra block.

BEFORE:



AFTER:

BigSung

Superstring, that turned out beautifully. I think you will like the On One Midge bar. I am loving mine.

By the way, can you let me know which stem and front v-brake you went with?

BigSung

Since it's friction, it should work fine...but keep in mind that I don't have experience in that route. I think there were others who had them mounted on stems.

superstring

Thanks, BigSung! Yeah, I've been riding the Midge bars for a couple of months and really like them. The extra width on the flat portion and reduced drop worked out really well - much more stable steering and now I actually use the drops!

The stem is a Nitto Dirtdrop, 80mm reach - Lots of rise!

The V-Brake is an XTR circa 2006.

Bicycle Addict

Hi Hank, forgive my post and it not being too particular, it is hard with a thread this big to remember everyone, also there is the not knowing of everyone's experience level.

The shifting system Miele man is using will work for the derailleurs on your bike, although you will need to use Tektro, Cane creek V Brake drop bar brake levers, as the pull(action) of all retro Roadbike levers are not suited to V Brakes that are are on your bike, they are suited to Cantilever brakes. The problem here is that the modern Tektro type levers do not have the mount that was used to mount the shifters on Miele mans conversion.
You can get Cantilever brakes very easily to run with Miele mans set up.


Looking at your bike your stem is looking too low and also too long, is it possible to get someone to take a pic of you on the bike? And possibly on of you standing over the top tube?

hankaye

Bicycle Addict, Howdy;

No problem with your previous post at all. I just need to remember that y'all don't commit
all of the postings to memory either. I do try to give some sort of reference when I ask my
questions. Perhaps I should be more specific ... By-the-way, I was also anticipating going
with the Cantilever brakes, and thanks for the heads-up on that.
Thanks.

hank

hankaye

BigSung, Howdy;

Thanks. Much appreciated.

hank