For the love of English 3 speeds...
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The Westrick is a pretty beefy looking rim in that 28 inch size. I have a 1978 Raleigh DL-1 I bought many years ago off of craigslist in DC. They're good bikes that still have the old style roadster feel.
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My 1976 Sports is currently under the knife! The paint was in really rough shape. It's getting some updated cable routing, water bottle mounts, a light mount and a fender mount in the chainstay bridge. It will be powder coated a metallic light blue that is close to the original color. Work done by the excellent https://www.instagram.com/etiquefabrications/. I'm hoping it lasts another 47 years!
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My 1976 Sports is currently under the knife! The paint was in really rough shape. It's getting some updated cable routing, water bottle mounts, a light mount and a fender mount in the chainstay bridge. It will be powder coated a metallic light blue that is close to the original color. Work done by the excellent https://www.instagram.com/etiquefabrications/. I'm hoping it lasts another 47 years!
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
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Those are some nice modernizations. Some thoughts and questions: By using plural "bottle cage mounts" do you intend to put a set on both the seat-tube and down-tube? By "light mount", do you mean you are brazing a lamp bracket boss to one of the fork blades? You must have meant you are upgrading the fender mount on the chainstay bridge, because I think all Sports' have them. That is a nice, re-inforced one.
Thanks! To answer the questions:
We added one set of bottle mounts on the downtube, I still want to have the traditional decal on the seat tube.
You can see the light mount in the first photo. I have a Bluelug Koma light that will screw into it. The location is inspired by a Hufnagel I saw online. I hope I works this was a bit of a risk!
For the fender mount: Surprisingly mine didn’t come with one. It is a Canadian made frame so maybe that’s the difference?
Last but not least: I wanted to move the rear brake brake-ons from the drive side to the non-drive and update them to a modern style (that doesn’t require stepped ferrules) but they were very securely welded and removing them risked leaving some marks on the frame, so they stayed.
I’m also very excited about the chainstay cable stop replacing the finnicky bolt on one.
I’ll post some pics once it’s powder coated.
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Join Date: Jun 2022
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Finished up some minor upgrades/restoration on my Raleigh Sports.
- I've installed new brake cables, but left the original cable housings since it is in great condition.
- Installed a rear rack (Wald 215), with a slight modification to clear the fenders. I used some bar stock and drilled a couple holes to lift the rack approx. 2". The modification worked perfectly.
- Replaces the old rotting tires with new Schwalbe Delta Cruisers.
Really pleased with the result.
Rear rack modification
- I've installed new brake cables, but left the original cable housings since it is in great condition.
- Installed a rear rack (Wald 215), with a slight modification to clear the fenders. I used some bar stock and drilled a couple holes to lift the rack approx. 2". The modification worked perfectly.
- Replaces the old rotting tires with new Schwalbe Delta Cruisers.
Really pleased with the result.
Rear rack modification
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Count Orlok Member
Finished up some minor upgrades/restoration on my Raleigh Sports.
- I've installed new brake cables, but left the original cable housings since it is in great condition.
- Installed a rear rack (Wald 215), with a slight modification to clear the fenders. I used some bar stock and drilled a couple holes to lift the rack approx. 2". The modification worked perfectly.
- Replaces the old rotting tires with new Schwalbe Delta Cruisers.
Really pleased with the result.
- I've installed new brake cables, but left the original cable housings since it is in great condition.
- Installed a rear rack (Wald 215), with a slight modification to clear the fenders. I used some bar stock and drilled a couple holes to lift the rack approx. 2". The modification worked perfectly.
- Replaces the old rotting tires with new Schwalbe Delta Cruisers.
Really pleased with the result.
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It looks great. Good work on the rack. How do you keep the leather on your Brooks B72 so nice?
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
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I'm really liking all the coffee Sports showing up here. My 1972 Canadian market Sports.
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We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
We are what we reflect. We are the changes that we bring to this world. Ride often. -Geo.-
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Sturmey Archer AW Spare Parts?
I don't really do three-speeds, but we have an old Raleigh Sports my lovely wife dragged home from somewhere. The hub wasn't coasting at all, so I was assigned the task of refurbishing it. Everything seemed to go according to plan until I couldn't get the indicator pin to thread into the axle key (variously p/n K526 or HSA124, depending on your parts diagram). I pulled things apart and not only was the axle key rotated, it was shifted to one side and broken through the threads. That's on me, obviously. It looked okay when I put the hub back together.
Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?
Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?
Newbie
I don't really do three-speeds, but we have an old Raleigh Sports my lovely wife dragged home from somewhere. The hub wasn't coasting at all, so I was assigned the task of refurbishing it. Everything seemed to go according to plan until I couldn't get the indicator pin to thread into the axle key (variously p/n K526 or HSA124, depending on your parts diagram). I pulled things apart and not only was the axle key rotated, it was shifted to one side and broken through the threads. That's on me, obviously. It looked okay when I put the hub back together.
Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?
Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?
I have had great results using these guys. Sturmey-ArcherParts.com The ordering is a little strange, and the dude contacted me by text at like 8 on a saturday night. But the parts were priced fair, same with shipping. and showed up on time.
If you want the very best price, SJS cycles in england. But because of the minimum shipping cost only maks sense to buy in bulk from them.
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I have had great results using these guys. Sturmey-ArcherParts.com.
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Count Orlok Member
I don't really do three-speeds, but we have an old Raleigh Sports my lovely wife dragged home from somewhere. The hub wasn't coasting at all, so I was assigned the task of refurbishing it. Everything seemed to go according to plan until I couldn't get the indicator pin to thread into the axle key (variously p/n K526 or HSA124, depending on your parts diagram). I pulled things apart and not only was the axle key rotated, it was shifted to one side and broken through the threads. That's on me, obviously. It looked okay when I put the hub back together.
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Make sure you screw an indicator into the key while you reassemble the hub, until you get the cone screwed down. This keeps it aligned. See step 9 of reassembly: https://www.sheldonbrown.com/sturmey-archer/aw.html
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Bikes are okay, I guess.
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Looks like a 24" wheeled Raleigh for $30 in MI.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...61960041088254
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...61960041088254
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I don't really do three-speeds, but we have an old Raleigh Sports my lovely wife dragged home from somewhere. The hub wasn't coasting at all, so I was assigned the task of refurbishing it. Everything seemed to go according to plan until I couldn't get the indicator pin to thread into the axle key (variously p/n K526 or HSA124, depending on your parts diagram). I pulled things apart and not only was the axle key rotated, it was shifted to one side and broken through the threads. That's on me, obviously. It looked okay when I put the hub back together.
Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?
Where do I go to find small S-A hub parts, given that I have no desire to start accumulating old AW hubs? I can check with my local co-op and see if they have some AW hubs (they likely don't have spares outside of complete hubs), but again, I really don't want to start accumulating old AW hubs. Any other suggestions?
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Thanks for the responses. I found an axle key locally in a friend's parts stash.
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Looks like a 24" wheeled Raleigh for $30 in MI.
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...61960041088254
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace...61960041088254
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Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
Unless you climb the rungs strategically, you’re not going to build the muscle you need to stay at the top.
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Some months back I found a 1953 dated AW hub in a worn-out wheel, which I thought would be a perfect candidate to run on my commuter Triumph while I have the S5 hub wheel off the bike for a rebuild.
The '53 hub was gummed up from many years of use without maintenance and wasn't working, mostly due to missing parts inside and frozen pawls - so it turned out that I had to rebuild that one too. I took it completely apart and rebuilt it with new bearings, new pawl springs, 1 or 2 new pawls, and a few other parts I sourced from that guy in Seattle at Rat City Bikes (sturmeyrarcher parts.com).
Today I installed the wheel on the bike to test the function of the hub - and it ticks along perfectly. I have to say the apart from the parts that were missing and the broken pawl spring, the remaining bits were in great condition. I hope my S5 rebuild works out just the same - I suspect I'll find worn parts in that one.
PXL_20230106_000729017
The '53 hub was gummed up from many years of use without maintenance and wasn't working, mostly due to missing parts inside and frozen pawls - so it turned out that I had to rebuild that one too. I took it completely apart and rebuilt it with new bearings, new pawl springs, 1 or 2 new pawls, and a few other parts I sourced from that guy in Seattle at Rat City Bikes (sturmeyrarcher parts.com).
Today I installed the wheel on the bike to test the function of the hub - and it ticks along perfectly. I have to say the apart from the parts that were missing and the broken pawl spring, the remaining bits were in great condition. I hope my S5 rebuild works out just the same - I suspect I'll find worn parts in that one.
PXL_20230106_000729017
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On the road
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The mid-1950s Sturmey hubs, like that 1953, are excellent parts to have on hand. They are early enough that they don't have the cost cutting of later hubs, but late enough that they don't have some of the quirky parts of the early hubs.
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Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/
Classic American and British Roadsters, Utility Bikes, and Sporting Bikes (1935-1979):
https://bikeshedva.blogspot.com/