jaxy357

Hi there, slightly embarrassing question here but what hardware do I need in order to install a rear rack properly? I ask because every time I attempt to attach mine with a bolt and nut, the nut invariably prevents me from shifting to the smallest rear cog or off of it. Pictures of your setup are much appreciated and I thank you for entertaining my newb-ness.

pdlamb

Mine are attached with (I think) M5 bolts, and my dropouts are threaded to match. I've had a longer than necessary bolt that I cut off with a Dremel so it wouldn't interfere.

Piervinc

same. On my commuter, I installed the rack and cut off the end of the bolt leaving a few threads in case it starts backing out and I don’t catch it right away.

ATL720

I don't think you need the nut. The attachment point should be threaded itself, so it doesn't need a nut on the back end. You just screw right into it.

zandoval 

Don't get discouraged. Setting up a rack can be tricky. Take your time. It may take more then a few tries ta get it right...

Make sure you use Stainless Steel bolts and lock-nuts. Most put the lock nuts facing out. Many have had to drill out a threaded lug to adapt a better fit.

lasauge 

Another alternative if you can't readily cut your bolt shorter, or find a shorter one to use, is to add a washer or extra nut on the outer side to shorten its effective length.

Darth Lefty 

Blue loctite (it comes in a red tube which is always confusing) and split washers

Darth Lefty 

OP has a classic bike so the threads might be long gone destroyed by some prior owner

Russ Roth

I've your mounting holes aren't threaded, then you can put a cap head bolt in from the inside and use a nylon lock nut on the outside to keep it from coming loose. The smaller, rounded head of the bolt will help to reduce or prevent interference with the chain. Otherwise, the design of having threaded mounting holes is to just have the bolt barely come through the other side, no lock nut needed just a lock washer between the bolt and rack.

unterhausen

On my commuter, I wanted to have a rack and fenders. But I only had one set of eyelets, which were threaded, but that didn't help really. So I put a long bolt through from the inside and put a nut on the other side of the eyelet. Then the rack, a washer, and a nut. Then came the fender struts, another washer and another nut. This really needs a picture, I know, but I don't commute on that bike any more. If you tighten the nuts properly, they aren't going to come loose, but locking nuts or thread locking compound wouldn't be bad.

I make my own racks now, and they have an eyelet built in for the fenders. I got that idea from Tubus, but I'm not sure which of their racks have the rack mounted eyelet.

jaxy357

reading through now, thanks for these ideas!

jaxy357

Does this take the place of a nut by chance? Because that would be awesome. And reading these comments, it sounds like I may be able to take my chances if the grooves are still there.

Darth Lefty 

Whether the backside nut, the threadlock, the lock washer, or anything else works depends on how your frame was done in the first place and how it is now after a long service life already. You might not need all of them but you could...




belt and suspenders

jaxy357

Gotta have all the bases covered, I guess, except for a shirt. Too funny!

SkinGriz

Depends on how clean the threads are. And if the threads are worn out,

timdow

You can use a bolt with a flat head on it and reverse it so the nut is sticking out the other side.

Gresp15C

A pic of your specific setup might be helpful. There's no standardization of how bikes are configured for racks, so it could come down to dealing with your particular bike.

jaxy357

Ask and you shall receive

Gresp15C

Not a lot of space between the frame and the cog. You could try what @timdow suggests. Otherwise, get a longer screw with a nut, thread the screw through until it just sticks out the other side, then tighten with the nut.

Or a slightly longer screw and progressively add more and more washers until it's just right.

This is a place where you want full thread engagement because racks tend to wiggle, and the screws will want to come loose.

skidder

If you're just commuting and not carrying a lot of weight maybe try a seatpost rack? They simple attache to the exposed seatpost, there are no struts going down from the rack to be attached to eyelets near the rear dropouts. They'll hold about 15 lbs IIRC (no weight limit on mine).

timdow

Seatpost rack is a good idea.

If you end up wanting a standard rack, as I suggested above you can put a bolt like this one in backward:


You will probably have to pull the wheel to do it. Cheap and easy solution.

AndreyT

The pictures are not exactly in focus, but are these mounting holes threaded by any chance? There seems to be some hint of threading in the upper picture.

Darth Lefty 

I think it's time for you to stop asking us, go to the hardware aisle and figure it out

soyabean

I take it that you require a nut because these holes are not tapped?

Your situation doesn't get better if you were to reverse a bolt inserted from the cogs' side.

It is always a bad idea to have anything and I mean anything in-between the dropouts, even if there is clearance.

Get those untapped holes properly tapped either M5 or M6, and then use screws of exact length so that it flushes to the inside of the drops.

That bike rack has holes big enough for either screw.

jaxy357

Sorry for the radio silence. Hubby did this for now and no issues after 15 or so miles.