Brake lever placement on drop bars?
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Brake lever placement on drop bars?
Can someone give me a guide, rule of thumb, maybe post some photos of the recommended position of brake levers on drop bars?
I'm replacing a set of drop bars on a bike with some others that I prefer and will also be replacing the wrap. I don't particularly want to have to rewrap the bars more than once if I don't like the lever placement. I figure I'll take a couple of short rides with the bars unwrapped to get a feel for what I like, but would appreciate any pointers.
I'm replacing a set of drop bars on a bike with some others that I prefer and will also be replacing the wrap. I don't particularly want to have to rewrap the bars more than once if I don't like the lever placement. I figure I'll take a couple of short rides with the bars unwrapped to get a feel for what I like, but would appreciate any pointers.
#2
Super Moderator
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Ffld Cnty Connecticut
Posts: 21,844
Bikes: Old Steelies I made, Old Cannondales
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1173 Post(s)
Liked 929 Times
in
614 Posts
I start with the bars pointing at the rear brake, and the tip of the brake levers on the same plane as the bottom of the bars.
I put a straight edge under the bar ends and make the brake lever tip touch the straight edge.
Then fine tune from there.
Bring tools on test rides to stop and tweak.
I put a straight edge under the bar ends and make the brake lever tip touch the straight edge.
Then fine tune from there.
Bring tools on test rides to stop and tweak.
__________________
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
Bikes: Old steel race bikes, old Cannondale race bikes, less old Cannondale race bike, crappy old mtn bike.
FYI: https://www.bikeforums.net/forum-sugg...ad-please.html
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
For the orientation of the bars, then, it sounds like you base it on the orientation of the drops more so than the top of the bars? I figured you want the top of the bar before the levers (the short part after the 90 degree bend that is parallel to the top tube) pretty much level.
#4
Banned
I prefer the tops and ramp to be almost level , since I spent 90 % of the time up on the top.
#5
Senior Member
When we put bikes together in the '70s, I was always told that the 'proper' initial fit was to point the ends of the drops at the rear axle. That gives a much more 'straight wrist' or neutral wrist angle when riding in the drops for most riders.
As for lever placement, that all depends if you spend more time 'on the hoods' like when riding a brifter bike, on top, or in the drops. I vary between on flat portion of the top, or with my palms on the outside of the forward curve, or drops, but never on the hoods. It takes me a few rides on a new bike to get the bar angle and brake placement exactly where I want them, so I ride with no bar tape until I work it out...
As for lever placement, that all depends if you spend more time 'on the hoods' like when riding a brifter bike, on top, or in the drops. I vary between on flat portion of the top, or with my palms on the outside of the forward curve, or drops, but never on the hoods. It takes me a few rides on a new bike to get the bar angle and brake placement exactly where I want them, so I ride with no bar tape until I work it out...
#6
Advocatus Diaboli
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Wherever I am
Posts: 8,641
Bikes: Merlin Cyrene, Nashbar steel CX
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4739 Post(s)
Liked 1,533 Times
in
1,004 Posts
One diagram anyway..
#7
Senior Member
#8
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: San Diego, California
Posts: 4,077
Bikes: Velo Orange Piolet
Mentioned: 28 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2228 Post(s)
Liked 2,011 Times
in
972 Posts
I'd spend a few days riding it and figuring out the position you like of both the bars and the brakes. You can cut strips of old inner tube to use as temporary bar tape (or use the old bar tape if it's usable) until you get it dialed in.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Upstate NY
Posts: 3,783
Bikes: Bianchi San Mateo and a few others
Mentioned: 18 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 634 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
9 Posts
Of course, your particular lever placement is going to vary with personal preference, handlebar shape, and lever shape.
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#11
Senior Member
How is that first bar 'brifter friendly'? Very short straight portion of drop, more flattened/straight part at the lower front of the drops as it curves down.
Note how much longer the bar is at the bottom of the drop on this '86 Miyata 710
...or these Nitto 115 bars on my old '70s Fuji. Note the long straight lower portion of the drops.
Both of the above bars are friendly to be ridden on the lower straight part of the drops. NOT with the hands 'on the hoods' or forward part of the drops. That style of riding position became more popular as people went with smaller frames and a more crouched/bent elbow riding position.
I seem to remember as riders transitioned to the riding the 'flat' section of the curve, some would put a straight section of 1" tubing on the rearward curve to make a flat spot for their hands.
Note how much longer the bar is at the bottom of the drop on this '86 Miyata 710
...or these Nitto 115 bars on my old '70s Fuji. Note the long straight lower portion of the drops.
Both of the above bars are friendly to be ridden on the lower straight part of the drops. NOT with the hands 'on the hoods' or forward part of the drops. That style of riding position became more popular as people went with smaller frames and a more crouched/bent elbow riding position.
I seem to remember as riders transitioned to the riding the 'flat' section of the curve, some would put a straight section of 1" tubing on the rearward curve to make a flat spot for their hands.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 8,951
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 14 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 13 Times
in
12 Posts
Here's some relevant info: Road Drop Bar Geometry : La Rueda Tropical
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 139
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 11 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Here's some relevant info: Road Drop Bar Geometry : La Rueda Tropical
#15
Senior Member
Here's some relevant info: Road Drop Bar Geometry : La Rueda Tropical
#16
Senior Member
I ride in the drops most of the time and lately have been using this quick guide from rivendell Nitto Noodle Handlebar
Click on the pictures, it shows quick and easy setup. Worked like a charm for my Noodles and other more modern bars
Click on the pictures, it shows quick and easy setup. Worked like a charm for my Noodles and other more modern bars
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Heatherbikes
Classic & Vintage
19
06-04-14 06:51 PM
motorapido
Bicycle Mechanics
5
07-02-13 10:27 AM