Replacing Chain
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 572
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Replacing Chain
My bike (Shimano 105 components) has right at 4,000 miles and the current chain about 2,000 of that. I measured the chain and 24 links were 12-1/16". I guess that theoretically it is ready for a chain and rear cassette replacement but it still functions well. Since I'm supposedly already in it for a new cassette, what's the downside in just continuing to ride it until it starts to screw up?
#2
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central Louisiana
Posts: 3,055
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
3 Posts
Unless there has been some sort of unusual wear, I doubt that you need a new cassette. I have over 11,000 miles on the cassette on the Fuji and a little over 7,000 miles on the cassette of the Cannondale. Both are the original cassettes. Get a new chain to keep from wearing the cassette before its time.
For what it's worth, I've been using KMC chains as replacements, and I like them. They are quiet, and they have the "missing link", which makes it easy to remove the chain as needed for cleaning.
For what it's worth, I've been using KMC chains as replacements, and I like them. They are quiet, and they have the "missing link", which makes it easy to remove the chain as needed for cleaning.
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 572
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Unless there has been some sort of unusual wear, I doubt that you need a new cassette. I have over 11,000 miles on the cassette on the Fuji and a little over 7,000 miles on the cassette of the Cannondale. Both are the original cassettes. Get a new chain to keep from wearing the cassette before its time.
For what it's worth, I've been using KMC chains as replacements, and I like them. They are quiet, and they have the "missing link", which makes it easy to remove the chain as needed for cleaning.
For what it's worth, I've been using KMC chains as replacements, and I like them. They are quiet, and they have the "missing link", which makes it easy to remove the chain as needed for cleaning.
#4
Time for a change.
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Posts: 19,913
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
I have a Park chain gauge and I check my chain length every month. Boreas is on its 3rd chain in 6,000 miles and it is showing .5% wear so still plenty of life in it. Cassette is still in pristine condition. The TCR has .75% wear and I already have the Ultegra chain in the spares box for when it gets to 1% wear. Cassette is still good so no worry there and this is after about 2,000 miles
But last week I checked a Cheap Chain on a Cheap bike. Just on wear limit and no problem with the cassette. That was after only 500 miles
Problem is that if you have a worn Chain and a worn cassette- and only change the chain- then you can have skipping on the gears. The new chain does not like running over a worn cassette. So visually check the cassette when chain time is up. If in doubt keep a spare cassette in the spares box.
And when you buy a chain- it will need cutting so get a chain breaker and either a Quick link for the chain or a new Rivet if it doesn't come with the chain.
To get the right length- put the chain on the big ring on the Crank and big ring on the cassette. No need to run through the derailler. Break the chain to "Over" length and never cut it too short.
Personally I always use Shimano Ultegra chains as I have never had a problem with them but "Apparantly" Some have noticed that the newer Cassettes and Chainrings need the newer chains- This may only be on the top end stuff but ask the LBS and they can always sort the right chain for your series of Groupset.
But last week I checked a Cheap Chain on a Cheap bike. Just on wear limit and no problem with the cassette. That was after only 500 miles
Problem is that if you have a worn Chain and a worn cassette- and only change the chain- then you can have skipping on the gears. The new chain does not like running over a worn cassette. So visually check the cassette when chain time is up. If in doubt keep a spare cassette in the spares box.
And when you buy a chain- it will need cutting so get a chain breaker and either a Quick link for the chain or a new Rivet if it doesn't come with the chain.
To get the right length- put the chain on the big ring on the Crank and big ring on the cassette. No need to run through the derailler. Break the chain to "Over" length and never cut it too short.
Personally I always use Shimano Ultegra chains as I have never had a problem with them but "Apparantly" Some have noticed that the newer Cassettes and Chainrings need the newer chains- This may only be on the top end stuff but ask the LBS and they can always sort the right chain for your series of Groupset.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
Last edited by stapfam; 10-03-11 at 12:28 PM.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Central Louisiana
Posts: 3,055
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 41 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 8 Times
in
3 Posts
All of the replacement chains I have purchased (and one was a 105 chain) have extra links. You will need a chain breaker to adjust the length. I bought a little pliers-looking tool from Park Tool (MLP-1) to squeeze the missing link together a little to pop it off. Works great.
I got Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and followed the instructions for installation of a new chain. There may be tutorials and/or YouTube videos on that topic as well.
I got Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and followed the instructions for installation of a new chain. There may be tutorials and/or YouTube videos on that topic as well.
#6
Banned.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
All of the replacement chains I have purchased (and one was a 105 chain) have extra links. You will need a chain breaker to adjust the length. I bought a little pliers-looking tool from Park Tool (MLP-1) to squeeze the missing link together a little to pop it off. Works great.
I got Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and followed the instructions for installation of a new chain. There may be tutorials and/or YouTube videos on that topic as well.
I got Zinn and the Art of Road Bike Maintenance and followed the instructions for installation of a new chain. There may be tutorials and/or YouTube videos on that topic as well.
If the chain is only 1/16th too long it is unlikely you'll need a new cassette. Typically, my cassettes will go through five or six chains, and I generally change them at the 1/16 point.
Y
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2001
Posts: 4,868
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 8 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
4 Posts
I agree with doctor J, You shouldn't need a new cassette yet.
Assuming your old chain was cut to proper length, lay it out on a flat surface next to the new chain and use it as a gauge for cutting the new one.
Assuming your old chain was cut to proper length, lay it out on a flat surface next to the new chain and use it as a gauge for cutting the new one.
#8
Life is good
Join Date: Jan 2001
Location: Not far from the Withlacoochee Trail. 🚴🏻
Posts: 18,209
Bikes: 2018 Lynskey Helix Pro
Mentioned: 13 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 522 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 10 Times
in
10 Posts
I replace my chain every 2000-2500 miles. It saves unnecessary wear on the cassette so it doesn't need replacing as often.
Chains are cheap.
Chains are cheap.
__________________
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
The Lord is merciful and gracious, slow to anger and abounding in steadfast love. - Psalm 103:8
I am a cyclist. I am not the fastest or the fittest. But I will get to where I'm going with a smile on my face.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 572
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
Thanks for the help guys but one more thing. I see that SRAM chains come with a master link but there's no mention of that with the Shimano chains. Buy that separate?
Edit: never mind, found this https://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm
Edit: never mind, found this https://www.bicyclinglife.com/HowTo/ChangeAChain.htm
Last edited by TomD77; 10-03-11 at 02:49 PM.
#10
Time for a change.
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: 6 miles inland from the coast of Sussex, in the South East of England
Posts: 19,913
Bikes: Dale MT2000. Bianchi FS920 Kona Explosif. Giant TCR C. Boreas Ignis. Pinarello Fp Uno.
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
4 Posts
Nothing wrong with Sram chains and they do have the master link. Shimano use the "New" rivet system.
If I were you- go with the Sram chain but get the right Type for the speed of your cassette and Buy a high enough quality.
Reason for using the Master link as a Novice chain fitter is that getting the Rivet in correctly can be awkward. It can be done too tight and give you a tight link that is awkward (But not impossible) to correct.
If I were you- go with the Sram chain but get the right Type for the speed of your cassette and Buy a high enough quality.
Reason for using the Master link as a Novice chain fitter is that getting the Rivet in correctly can be awkward. It can be done too tight and give you a tight link that is awkward (But not impossible) to correct.
__________________
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
How long was I in the army? Five foot seven.
Spike Milligan
#11
Banned.
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Uncertain
Posts: 8,651
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 2 Times
in
2 Posts
You don't have a master link with Shimano, you use the chain tool to push a rivet most of the way out, break the chain and then reinsert the rivet. The chains come with spare rivets to make the connection after yu've broken the chain. It sounds complicated but isn't, and as Stapfam says, if you get a tight link through inexperience it is possible to correct it, again using the chain tool.
#12
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Las Vegas, NV
Posts: 885
Bikes: 2011 Trek SOHO Deluxe, and 2010 Specialized Roubaix Expert
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 7 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have tried Shimano 105, SRAM and Shimano Ultegra 10 speed chains. I found a good deal on a Dura Ace 7800 10 sp chain; so it is my current chain. I typically only get about 1200 mi on a 10 sp chain. I haven't had any cassette problems. I regularly clean and lube my chains. I am using the purple lube. I attained much greater life on older 8 speed chains.
#13
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 2,654
Bikes: 2008 Trek Madone 5.5, 2009 Cervelo R3SL tdf edition, Cervelo R5 with Di2
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
I usually get at least three chains per cassette change. I tend to ride a chain too long (mainly because I keep forgetting to check the mileage) so I frequently get 2000 or 2500 miles per chain.
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Toronto (again) Ontario, Canada
Posts: 6,931
Bikes: Old Bike: 1975 Raleigh Delta, New Bike: 2004 Norco Bushpilot
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 4 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 5 Times
in
5 Posts
You don't have a master link with Shimano, you use the chain tool to push a rivet most of the way out, break the chain and then reinsert the rivet. The chains come with spare rivets to make the connection after yu've broken the chain. It sounds complicated but isn't, and as Stapfam says, if you get a tight link through inexperience it is possible to correct it, again using the chain tool.
It's funny a 6 speed chain costs $10, and is good for 10,000 miles, an 8 speed chain costs $20 and is good for 5,000 miles, a 10 speed chain costs $40 and you consider yourself lucky if it lasts 2,500 miles, why is this?
#15
Senior Member
A SRAM chain should work well on your bike. I use SRAM chains and I have Shimano 9 speed components. The cassette wear will accelerate if you are running a worn chain. It is best to get the little Park tool chain wear gauge. It is really quick and easy to use. I check the chain wear everytime I clean the drive train. I usually can replace a fair number of chains without changing the cassette. Since chains cost far less than cassettes, that is a good thing.
#16
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Utah
Posts: 589
Bikes: Thorn Nomad Mk2, 1996 Trek 520, Workcycles Transport, Brompton
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/power-links.html
#17
just keep riding
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Milledgeville, Georgia
Posts: 13,560
Bikes: 2018 Black Mountain Cycles MCD,2017 Advocate Cycles Seldom Seen Drop Bar, 2017 Niner Jet 9 Alloy, 2015 Zukas custom road, 2003 KHS Milano Tandem, 1986 Nishiki Cadence rigid MTB, 1980ish Fuji S-12S
Mentioned: 15 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 173 Post(s)
Liked 33 Times
in
22 Posts
This might help with removal of the SRAM power link:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/power-links.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/power-links.html
https://www.amazon.com/Park-Tool-MLP-.../dp/B000AA30BG
I find that sometimes I can easily open the link and other times I just can't seem to get it right. The tool works every time.
#18
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Florida Panhandle
Posts: 572
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
This might help with removal of the SRAM power link:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/power-links.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/power-links.html