Attaching bike trailer with axle behind frame
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Attaching bike trailer with axle behind frame
I am trying to attach a Schwinn Day Triper cargo trailer to my bike - a Specialized Urban (sorry can't remember model spec). The instructions say to ensure 2" of rear axle extend beyond the hub. There is 2" but the axle ends behind the frame -- i.e. there is no way of getting the bracket on to the axle. Is there any way to make the attachment? Someone suggested just clamping the bracket to the metal frame over the wheel, then inserting the quick release form through it and tightening, but I'm afraid that would put too much pressure on the quick release and/or work it lose over time? Thanks for help.
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REplace your rear axle with a longer solid one using nuts. You'll lose the quick release but with a trailer you'll have room to carry a 15mm wrench.
A quick release axle is designed to not extend beyond the drop out or it won't work correctly.
A quick release axle is designed to not extend beyond the drop out or it won't work correctly.
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Welcome to the forum. First step is to figure out how your wheel is held on. I'm not sure what you mean in your post. If it's a quick release, the Robert Axle project has a replacement nut for it.
https://robertaxleproject.com/produc...-for-trailers/
They also have through axles that will mount a trailer.
If you upload pictures to an album in your gallery, we can move them here for you.
https://robertaxleproject.com/produc...-for-trailers/
They also have through axles that will mount a trailer.
If you upload pictures to an album in your gallery, we can move them here for you.
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Thanks. I'll look into this. It is surprising to learn that the quick release doesn't normally extend, since the trailer is sold as working with most quick releases. That's what made me wonder if I was missing something obvious...!
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Likes For classicmds:
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Yes, here they are
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That video is helpful thanks. This bike looks just like mine, so I guess the thing I'm confused about is that about 0:28 she says "place the washer onto the axle" (which is what the instruction manual says and what I was trying to do) but in fact the video shows the washer sitting flush with the frame dropout not actually going onto the axle. (Perhaps I'm defining axle wrong, though: I was assuming it was the cylinder that terminates just before the dropout and goes through the wheel -- but could the whole frame structure at this point be termed "the axle?" (Sorry if this is obvious: I'm a novice at bike part names!) At 0:39 she then says "place the coupler plate onto the axle" when the axle is now completely covered by the washer plate.. -- again confusing me as to what is meant in these instructions by "axle"...
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classicmds I think you're trying to read a little too much into the instructions. I don't think there's any bike that has 2" of axle that sticks out past the frame. That's a lot of extra axle.
You also don't need to tear apart the hub and replace it with a solid, non QR one either (advice on BF tends to run to the most conservative, and complicated solutions at the same time)
I ran a THULE/Chariot for about 10 years, and the installation kit consisted of the coupler, and an extra-long, all-steel QR 'skewer' No solid axle, no conversion nut; you just put the coupler up against the dropout and install the QR as normal.
The QR doesn't actually carry any weight, it's a clamp, holding things together; and when tightened correctly, it should never 'work loose over time'
I'd go to your LBS and get a 135mm 'internal cam' (Shimano Style) QR skewer. You may need a little bit of extra thread to ensure the nut end is fully engaged, and it's one of those places where expensive, super-lightweight components actually don't work as well as more basic ones.
I'd recommend bringing your current QR to the LBS, since you will be able to compare it right there, so you leave with the correct one.
FWIW, lots of people hook trailers to their bikes without having to replace or upgrade any hardware, and there isn't a whole internet lore about catastrophic trailer failures, so that tells me it works enough.
You also don't need to tear apart the hub and replace it with a solid, non QR one either (advice on BF tends to run to the most conservative, and complicated solutions at the same time)
I ran a THULE/Chariot for about 10 years, and the installation kit consisted of the coupler, and an extra-long, all-steel QR 'skewer' No solid axle, no conversion nut; you just put the coupler up against the dropout and install the QR as normal.
The QR doesn't actually carry any weight, it's a clamp, holding things together; and when tightened correctly, it should never 'work loose over time'
I'd go to your LBS and get a 135mm 'internal cam' (Shimano Style) QR skewer. You may need a little bit of extra thread to ensure the nut end is fully engaged, and it's one of those places where expensive, super-lightweight components actually don't work as well as more basic ones.
I'd recommend bringing your current QR to the LBS, since you will be able to compare it right there, so you leave with the correct one.
FWIW, lots of people hook trailers to their bikes without having to replace or upgrade any hardware, and there isn't a whole internet lore about catastrophic trailer failures, so that tells me it works enough.
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I'd take a wire brush to that grungy dropout to make sure any loose material is removed.
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Thanks for reply on this. I went to LBS and got a new skewer and it all fitted snugly. However, after riding with trailer the bracket bent and trailer started creaking. I contacted Schwinn and they told me that their trailers don't work with 29" road bike wheels. I don't see anything about this on their product page which simply states it works with most bikes, so now I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations of trailers that work with 29" wheels. The appropriate bike wheel size isn't something that most trailer specs seem to mention so I'm confused about how to identify a compatible trailer. Thanks!
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In all seriousness, bike trailers, especially the inexpensive ones, are kind of a 'universal fit' thing, where it'll fit most bikes, most of the time. I don't know anything about your bike, other than the picture of the dropout you gave us, but it doesn't seem to be anything exotic about it. One of those things where we can only give you generic advice based on prior experience because unless we're in the garage with you, all we can do is guess.
Being that your trailer has a 'type A' hitch with the spring flex joint (common on inexpensive trailers) and a folding drawbar, you're going to get a lot of creaks and rattles. Even if you get rid of all the play in all those joints, you'll still have the spring, and it'll creak.
As far as the bracket getting bent, sometimes things don't line up quite the same way once you're under way, as they do sitting in the garage. And, even as cheap as they are, i don't see it bending JRA unless you've significantly overloaded the trailer. (or, you jack-knifed it, or hooked a wheel on a curb or other obstacle)
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^^ Solution in search of a problem.
Dude is having trouble just getting a generic hitch set up on his generic hybrid, you think he’s going to re-engineer a whole yoke-and-drawbar setup?
Better trailers have better hitches and hardware. He bought a cheap one.
Dude is having trouble just getting a generic hitch set up on his generic hybrid, you think he’s going to re-engineer a whole yoke-and-drawbar setup?
Better trailers have better hitches and hardware. He bought a cheap one.
#17
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Just a suggested way to connect a trailer, that is all it was meant to illustrate. Try not to read too much into it.