Racer Tech Thread
#5776
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OK, I checked and I've got the 520, not the 510 (and not the 520+). I just had to actually use the manual to figure out where things are. Example - autopause was nowhere in the configuration or settings menu so I assumed it didn't have it. It is in the activities profile menu ... I had just assumed activities profiles was for putting in intervals or routes, or whatever, not configuring the main screen. So my bad for not finding it and other items, but on the other hand I found this on my last two computers without ever looking at a menu. This is just me being a Luddite.
#5777
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My new Lezyne Strip rear light doesn't fit very well on my bike. Aero integrated seat mast. The shape seems mostly okay, but the ladder rubber they give you isn't really quite long enough to attach around, it's meant for a seat post.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
#5778
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I started using reusable cable tie wraps when I lost the Lezyne rubber piece. The link if or 12 inch but you can buy whatever size you want.
https://www.amazon.com/HOTUN-Reusabl...s%2C191&sr=1-3
I can pull it snug around the light and seat post such that the light stays in place. I may work with the aero integrated post.
https://www.amazon.com/HOTUN-Reusabl...s%2C191&sr=1-3
I can pull it snug around the light and seat post such that the light stays in place. I may work with the aero integrated post.
#5779
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I started using reusable cable tie wraps when I lost the Lezyne rubber piece. The link if or 12 inch but you can buy whatever size you want.
https://www.amazon.com/HOTUN-Reusabl...s%2C191&sr=1-3
I can pull it snug around the light and seat post such that the light stays in place. I may work with the aero integrated post.
https://www.amazon.com/HOTUN-Reusabl...s%2C191&sr=1-3
I can pull it snug around the light and seat post such that the light stays in place. I may work with the aero integrated post.
#5780
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#5781
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Finally a replacement for the toe strap.
Long after I stopped using toe clips I kept using toe clip straps, never really finding a replacement. Late 70s/early 80s I was in construction and introduced toe clip straps to the guys as tie downs for stuff on truck racks. YEars later they asked me where they could get them and I told them the history of pedals and the Internet still had them, but unlikely bike shops would.
#5782
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For the Lezyne light, I have to take it off the bike after every ride to recharge. So maybe I have reused it 75 times. I am not sure about toe clip straps. For the light, there is no force being put on the tie wrap to pull it apart. Just a thought.
#5783
Cat 2
Voile Straps! Skiers call them backcountry duct tape because you can fix almost anything with them. Cheap, light, easy to find, easy to use and bomb proof.
https://www.voile.com/voile-straps.html
https://www.voile.com/voile-straps.html
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#5784
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I need to start looking at wheels for climbing. Once I hit under 145 even 45 deep wheels move me around on descents. Not nearly as bad as the 60's but bad enough I don't want to descend with em.
#5786
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I've been on my Giant Advanced for the last 11 years, and it's been a good ride, but for that whole time I haven't had a backup bike. My old Giant can now be my training/backup bike and I'll finally have a race only (or group ride) steed.
![](https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/bikeforums.net-vbulletin/2000x1504/d9dt1auutowuba_5rb0ylg_f9e71651cb4b91e777aaa8e231b66401935eb5dc.jpg)
Last edited by Yep; 06-19-19 at 09:23 AM.
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#5787
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Anyway they're selling me some Kysrium Elites at cost, which is about as high as I want to go; next year the plan is to get a new road bike with disc brakes, so the last thing I want to do is spend $$$ on race wheels. I still have the 60's for crits and some training wheels, but considering those training wheels have broken spokes 4 times including once on a bunny hop, there's no way I'm descending 20 miles in those.
#5788
Senior Member
I'm still on my pseudo-quest regarding wheels, which is funny considering I've also been on the wheels are kind of overrated bandwagon. I've been looking back at old rides from 3-4 years ago when I was less in shape and was regularly riding over 18mph, and I'm attributing that to the fact that I had some aero wheels (some cheap colnago branded ones), which I sold with my old bike. I was going over 18mph on rides at around 200np whereas rides in the past year on my Allez with stock wheels have been at 17ish at around 200w NP (last week I had 227w NP to average over 18 over 63miles). At least that's the simple explanation where I don't take the million other factors like wind and hills into account lol
Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
#5789
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I still have the original set of Giant 38mm aero alloy wheels that came with my Propel. 11spd. I got the Crockett up to speed as a cross and gravel only bike now. For a while it was using that wheelset while I carbon repaired the Propel last summer.
This wheelset is pretty nice and has sat for a while.
For some more fun opportunities, I'm considering putting some 25mm tires on the extra wheels for the Propel. Certain years supposedly didn't fit but up to 23mm tires. Certain years up to 25mm.
The one I have is a weird build. It's a red/white paint scheme that should have been an Ultegra PA1 build. But was built up with 105 stuff. I thought it was a 2015 model, meaning the less clearance. But the odd build combo has left me second guessing that. With 23mm tires, I can get my pinky finger between the brake pull wire and the tire. Maybe not THAT much, but it is certainly a LOT more than the 2mm difference in tire clearance I'd need. If the tire is 2mm bigger, there is certainly 8mm or so clearance right now. Maybe 1/4".
Short of buying the tires and being wrong, any other way to tell? Can't find a part number on the brakes without disassembling it.
The gravel in Umstead on the main roads is easy enough most roadies on a 25 to 28 tire should be good. Then I can take Ebeneezer Ch around the harder gravel and down Reedy and back in for a nice fast and challenging loop.
Was it the pull wire clearance or the actual metal part to rub? If the metal part you could always adjust that out by adding a washer to the brake shoe and turn the set screw outwards.
This wheelset is pretty nice and has sat for a while.
For some more fun opportunities, I'm considering putting some 25mm tires on the extra wheels for the Propel. Certain years supposedly didn't fit but up to 23mm tires. Certain years up to 25mm.
The one I have is a weird build. It's a red/white paint scheme that should have been an Ultegra PA1 build. But was built up with 105 stuff. I thought it was a 2015 model, meaning the less clearance. But the odd build combo has left me second guessing that. With 23mm tires, I can get my pinky finger between the brake pull wire and the tire. Maybe not THAT much, but it is certainly a LOT more than the 2mm difference in tire clearance I'd need. If the tire is 2mm bigger, there is certainly 8mm or so clearance right now. Maybe 1/4".
Short of buying the tires and being wrong, any other way to tell? Can't find a part number on the brakes without disassembling it.
The gravel in Umstead on the main roads is easy enough most roadies on a 25 to 28 tire should be good. Then I can take Ebeneezer Ch around the harder gravel and down Reedy and back in for a nice fast and challenging loop.
Was it the pull wire clearance or the actual metal part to rub? If the metal part you could always adjust that out by adding a washer to the brake shoe and turn the set screw outwards.
#5790
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I'm still on my pseudo-quest regarding wheels, which is funny considering I've also been on the wheels are kind of overrated bandwagon. I've been looking back at old rides from 3-4 years ago when I was less in shape and was regularly riding over 18mph, and I'm attributing that to the fact that I had some aero wheels (some cheap colnago branded ones), which I sold with my old bike. I was going over 18mph on rides at around 200np whereas rides in the past year on my Allez with stock wheels have been at 17ish at around 200w NP (last week I had 227w NP to average over 18 over 63miles). At least that's the simple explanation where I don't take the million other factors like wind and hills into account lol
Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
So if I go off one of the sites that claims aero wheels give you 65 seconds over normal ones, that's .065 of a second over 250 meters which is (I'm guessing here) is 2 bike lengths. That doesn't account for the jump, leadout, and timing which are more important. Also the bike industry now seems to think you can race on 60's in any condition...
I'm not trying to downsell them because I do think they are worth it but its not something you absolutely need to compete.
#5791
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Essentially, with the older deep wheels the cross wind was pushing against a flat side wall on deep section wheels. Nowadays that profile facing a cross wind is somewhat curved and profiled. So, it presents less resistance to the cross wind.
Think of it like the old deep wheels were the shape of a wedge with a tire on top. The new ones are the shape of an oval with the tire as part of the oval.
But, we're talking probably in the early 2010-teens or earlier for that cheap flat side profile vee.
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#5792
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In a cross wind a modern "U" shaped or optimized profile 60mm wheel is about the same as something smaller than 50mm in the classic "flat sided vee".
Essentially, with the older deep wheels the cross wind was pushing against a flat side wall on deep section wheels. Nowadays that profile facing a cross wind is somewhat curved and profiled. So, it presents less resistance to the cross wind.
Think of it like the old deep wheels were the shape of a wedge with a tire on top. The new ones are the shape of an oval with the tire as part of the oval.
But, we're talking probably in the early 2010-teens or earlier for that cheap flat side profile vee.
Essentially, with the older deep wheels the cross wind was pushing against a flat side wall on deep section wheels. Nowadays that profile facing a cross wind is somewhat curved and profiled. So, it presents less resistance to the cross wind.
Think of it like the old deep wheels were the shape of a wedge with a tire on top. The new ones are the shape of an oval with the tire as part of the oval.
But, we're talking probably in the early 2010-teens or earlier for that cheap flat side profile vee.
#5793
Senior Member
I agree, the last road race I did recently, I was very much in the mix the whole time. Although I've been doing a few fast group rides with guys lately who are much stronger than I am, of course I won't blame myself for lacking matches to close down gaps lol, but can't help but notice everyone with aero rims while I'm on stock box section wheels. If aero rims could help me close the gaps just a bit easier than on my basic wheels, I'd be all over them!
#5794
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I still have the original set of Giant 38mm aero alloy wheels that came with my Propel. 11spd. I got the Crockett up to speed as a cross and gravel only bike now. For a while it was using that wheelset while I carbon repaired the Propel last summer.
This wheelset is pretty nice and has sat for a while.
For some more fun opportunities, I'm considering putting some 25mm tires on the extra wheels for the Propel. Certain years supposedly didn't fit but up to 23mm tires. Certain years up to 25mm.
The one I have is a weird build. It's a red/white paint scheme that should have been an Ultegra PA1 build. But was built up with 105 stuff. I thought it was a 2015 model, meaning the less clearance. But the odd build combo has left me second guessing that. With 23mm tires, I can get my pinky finger between the brake pull wire and the tire. Maybe not THAT much, but it is certainly a LOT more than the 2mm difference in tire clearance I'd need. If the tire is 2mm bigger, there is certainly 8mm or so clearance right now. Maybe 1/4".
Short of buying the tires and being wrong, any other way to tell? Can't find a part number on the brakes without disassembling it.
The gravel in Umstead on the main roads is easy enough most roadies on a 25 to 28 tire should be good. Then I can take Ebeneezer Ch around the harder gravel and down Reedy and back in for a nice fast and challenging loop.
Was it the pull wire clearance or the actual metal part to rub? If the metal part you could always adjust that out by adding a washer to the brake shoe and turn the set screw outwards.
This wheelset is pretty nice and has sat for a while.
For some more fun opportunities, I'm considering putting some 25mm tires on the extra wheels for the Propel. Certain years supposedly didn't fit but up to 23mm tires. Certain years up to 25mm.
The one I have is a weird build. It's a red/white paint scheme that should have been an Ultegra PA1 build. But was built up with 105 stuff. I thought it was a 2015 model, meaning the less clearance. But the odd build combo has left me second guessing that. With 23mm tires, I can get my pinky finger between the brake pull wire and the tire. Maybe not THAT much, but it is certainly a LOT more than the 2mm difference in tire clearance I'd need. If the tire is 2mm bigger, there is certainly 8mm or so clearance right now. Maybe 1/4".
Short of buying the tires and being wrong, any other way to tell? Can't find a part number on the brakes without disassembling it.
The gravel in Umstead on the main roads is easy enough most roadies on a 25 to 28 tire should be good. Then I can take Ebeneezer Ch around the harder gravel and down Reedy and back in for a nice fast and challenging loop.
Was it the pull wire clearance or the actual metal part to rub? If the metal part you could always adjust that out by adding a washer to the brake shoe and turn the set screw outwards.
I found something from Surly that spaces the dropouts by 5mm. I can slot the brake a few mm to slide the shoe.
Their product specifically states it is for a rear facing dropout. Is it legal/design based wording to avoid trouble, or perhaps you "would dead" if you threw their dropout spacers on a road bike?
Frames have "dummy tabs" anyway. I'd assume they don't want the spacers falling downwards with a wheel/skewer or something.
Opinions? That'd be $40 vs. $250+ for Fouriers brakes.
#5795
Cat 2
Re aero wheel depth
Beginning of the season on my Roval CL50's I never felt a thing. I've dropped about 15lbs since then (~145lbs). Windy descents are kinda sketch now, but not near as much as the older V-shaped wheels I've had in years past. Today I was a little gripped on a couple of the descents when semi trucks went past, but nothing beyond scary. I think the Trainerroad guys said it in the flo wheels podcast.. It's about predictability now on the newer shaped wheels.
Beginning of the season on my Roval CL50's I never felt a thing. I've dropped about 15lbs since then (~145lbs). Windy descents are kinda sketch now, but not near as much as the older V-shaped wheels I've had in years past. Today I was a little gripped on a couple of the descents when semi trucks went past, but nothing beyond scary. I think the Trainerroad guys said it in the flo wheels podcast.. It's about predictability now on the newer shaped wheels.
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#5798
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She rides 30 mm on her road bike and 45mm on her TT bike for training. If it is really windy in a TT, I put the 30 mm on her TT bike. I can ride the disc trispoke in windy conditions but sometimes I let up on the power during a gust and if I do that, I am better off with a standard wheel on the front. The incremental gains from wheels are important but not at the expense of power or safety.
#5799
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Also, I have the new Edge 530, really wanted it in part to do navigation and also trainerroad workouts outside, haven't done a workout outdoors yet, but the navigation part is great and hopefully I can get out and do routes that I'm not familiar with rather than the same old ones.
The reviews of it specifically look great though, and except for some physical button issues which should be all sorted by the time I get it, people seem to love it. It's certainly a great price for the features, plus all the mountain bike stuff might be nice in a couple years if I have more time and get back into that.
I don't know that I'll do trainer road (bit of money for a guy just getting back to riding period) but I am interested in creating my own workouts, and it seems Garmin connect can do that natively whereas with Wahoo I have to pay to use training peaks or something I think. It's very confusing though. I just want to be able to pick a known interval workout and stick it on my bike, without spending a ton of time or money.
#5800
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So I finally finished editing the video of the wind. Took me awhile, this is kind of a practice run for my Tahiti Videos (which I want to look good).