Help!! Dumb move; Suntour brake cam lost
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Help!! Dumb move; Suntour brake cam lost
hi there, i'd been working on my ross mt hood and had to take the rear brake loose because i broke the stud on the lever reach adjuster came. perhaps i left the pinch bolt loose on the brake cam and so it fell it off somewhere transporting the bike from the area i had been working down to the workshop to finish things up. i don't know. all i know is now i can't find the cam. there's a replacement on ebay with no pinch bolt, but it's the narrower cam as is on the front. the rear had a wide body cam like this one.....
question is can i use the narrower style came on the rear like this one?...
also, can i use a pinch bolt for it like any ol' thing from a center pull or cantilever yoke?
thanks. i'm gonna keep looking for the cam i lost, though
ps. i should add i'm working on suntour xc roller cams....not xcd. don't know if that makes any difference
question is can i use the narrower style came on the rear like this one?...
also, can i use a pinch bolt for it like any ol' thing from a center pull or cantilever yoke?
thanks. i'm gonna keep looking for the cam i lost, though
ps. i should add i'm working on suntour xc roller cams....not xcd. don't know if that makes any difference
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Were it me. and considering that the cam appears to be nothing more that a flat piece of steel, I would simply make another one...
Get a piece of stainless steel that is the same thickness as the one you lost. I am assuming that you have one from the other brake to compare to. A piece of stainless steel might be readily available at a pawn shop or used items store in the form of a metal cooking pot. Trace the shape you need, based on the one cam that you do have. It will take some time and require the use of a drill, hacksaw and half round file. It should not be too hard to do. Perhaps needless to say, your home made one will not be imbued with the Suntour name but it should work just fine.
Get a piece of stainless steel that is the same thickness as the one you lost. I am assuming that you have one from the other brake to compare to. A piece of stainless steel might be readily available at a pawn shop or used items store in the form of a metal cooking pot. Trace the shape you need, based on the one cam that you do have. It will take some time and require the use of a drill, hacksaw and half round file. It should not be too hard to do. Perhaps needless to say, your home made one will not be imbued with the Suntour name but it should work just fine.
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Don't know really know, why not try it using your front cam? At the bike kitchen where I volunteer, we have a tray full of odds and ends like cams, and sometimes we (well I, anyway) will even let those go for free if we (or I) like the customer. Maybe seek out such a place in your area? Sometimes they are near college campuses, although mine isn't because the nearest large college operates its own student bike store, selling new parts only.
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Were it me. and considering that the cam appears to be nothing more that a flat piece of steel, I would simply make another one...
Get a piece of stainless steel that is the same thickness as the one you lost. I am assuming that you have one from the other brake to compare to. A piece of stainless steel might be readily available at a pawn shop or used items store in the form of a metal cooking pot. Trace the shape you need, based on the one cam that you do have. It will take some time and require the use of a drill, hacksaw and half round file. It should not be too hard to do. Perhaps needless to say, your home made one will not be imbued with the Suntour name but it should work just fine.
Get a piece of stainless steel that is the same thickness as the one you lost. I am assuming that you have one from the other brake to compare to. A piece of stainless steel might be readily available at a pawn shop or used items store in the form of a metal cooking pot. Trace the shape you need, based on the one cam that you do have. It will take some time and require the use of a drill, hacksaw and half round file. It should not be too hard to do. Perhaps needless to say, your home made one will not be imbued with the Suntour name but it should work just fine.
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I have a RollerCam front brake, but a U-brake in back, so no direct experience w/ the front-back difference.
However, for under-the-chainstay orientation, the brake arms/shoes cannot be allowed to swing outward too far, because of interference with the cranks, chainrings, etc. This is where it would make sense to go with a wider cam plate in back. If you use the narrower one, make sure you don't have a mechanical interfrence problem. The other difference you might notice would be in modulation of the brakes, which would be a function of the respective curvatures of the wide and narrow cam plates.
However, for under-the-chainstay orientation, the brake arms/shoes cannot be allowed to swing outward too far, because of interference with the cranks, chainrings, etc. This is where it would make sense to go with a wider cam plate in back. If you use the narrower one, make sure you don't have a mechanical interfrence problem. The other difference you might notice would be in modulation of the brakes, which would be a function of the respective curvatures of the wide and narrow cam plates.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
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There was a site with a store in Louisiana (IIRC) that had roller cam parts (I ordered a 3rd hand tool years ago)- along with a bunch of other NOS Suntour (lower end) parts.
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#9
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I have a RollerCam front brake, but a U-brake in back, so no direct experience w/ the front-back difference.
However, for under-the-chainstay orientation, the brake arms/shoes cannot be allowed to swing outward too far, because of interference with the cranks, chainrings, etc. This is where it would make sense to go with a wider cam plate in back. If you use the narrower one, make sure you don't have a mechanical interfrence problem. The other difference you might notice would be in modulation of the brakes, which would be a function of the respective curvatures of the wide and narrow cam plates.
However, for under-the-chainstay orientation, the brake arms/shoes cannot be allowed to swing outward too far, because of interference with the cranks, chainrings, etc. This is where it would make sense to go with a wider cam plate in back. If you use the narrower one, make sure you don't have a mechanical interfrence problem. The other difference you might notice would be in modulation of the brakes, which would be a function of the respective curvatures of the wide and narrow cam plates.
i suppose i'll have to try the front brake's cam plate on the rear as onyerleft suggested and see what happens. i did have to trim the kool stop salmon pad on the non drive side when i installed them in order that the crank would clear the brake. the arm kept swiping the end of the pad post.
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there was....lol! well, if you ever remember the name of it or run across it at some point, please let me know. at some point, i think i'd like to stock a few spare parts for these brakes. i'm really liking them...antiquated as they are. they feel nice and solid and stop like beasts
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Don't know really know, why not try it using your front cam? At the bike kitchen where I volunteer, we have a tray full of odds and ends like cams, and sometimes we (well I, anyway) will even let those go for free if we (or I) like the customer. Maybe seek out such a place in your area? Sometimes they are near college campuses, although mine isn't because the nearest large college operates its own student bike store, selling new parts only.
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I have a RollerCam front brake, but a U-brake in back, so no direct experience w/ the front-back difference.
However, for under-the-chainstay orientation, the brake arms/shoes cannot be allowed to swing outward too far, because of interference with the cranks, chainrings, etc. This is where it would make sense to go with a wider cam plate in back. If you use the narrower one, make sure you don't have a mechanical interfrence problem. The other difference you might notice would be in modulation of the brakes, which would be a function of the respective curvatures of the wide and narrow cam plates.
However, for under-the-chainstay orientation, the brake arms/shoes cannot be allowed to swing outward too far, because of interference with the cranks, chainrings, etc. This is where it would make sense to go with a wider cam plate in back. If you use the narrower one, make sure you don't have a mechanical interfrence problem. The other difference you might notice would be in modulation of the brakes, which would be a function of the respective curvatures of the wide and narrow cam plates.
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Drag a magnet on the ground along the route you traveled taking the bike inside - maybe it will pick up the missing plate. Unless it is aluminum or stainless.
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i've got one, too. a nice strong one on an extendable handle. from harbor freight. i plan to do this today...as soon as i can find the magnet...lol. wife left it somewhere
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I guess you'll have to drag some metal to find the magnet first?
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hahahaha.....good one!
i did eventually find the magnet tool. wife used it and left it the feed shed
also, embarrassingly, i just found the cam plate a few minutes ago!! i searched everywhere for days and all through laundry i was sure i'd worn that week. (i tend to stick stuff in my pockets since i frequently wear cargo shorts = handy.) anyway, i just happened to put on the pair of shorts i'd actually worn that day.(vs the ones i thought i wore) and there's the plate in the front pocket...pffth. oh well. now i have a spare cam plate on the way
i did eventually find the magnet tool. wife used it and left it the feed shed
also, embarrassingly, i just found the cam plate a few minutes ago!! i searched everywhere for days and all through laundry i was sure i'd worn that week. (i tend to stick stuff in my pockets since i frequently wear cargo shorts = handy.) anyway, i just happened to put on the pair of shorts i'd actually worn that day.(vs the ones i thought i wore) and there's the plate in the front pocket...pffth. oh well. now i have a spare cam plate on the way