What kind of mileage are you getting out of your rear tires?
#51
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Yep. I worked in bike stores too long to want to do unnecessary work like rotating my tires. Replace rear, then replace both, then replace rear, then replace both . . . .
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#52
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Another option could be to rotate the front tire to the rear, but only after the rear tire is EOL. That way, your front/steering tire generally won't ever be more than ~1/3 of the way worn down.
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Exactly. That is why I always buy tires in sets of three. But I wonder whether the two rear tires per front tire ratio would also hold for my gravel bike.
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Those are good ideas Trakhak and SoSmellyAir. I have mostly been in the tire rotation camp, but tbh I don't have a great reason for it. I like the idea of buying three at a time and then just riding through two rears per front. I like the "less is more" ethos there.
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Or do the rear/both/rear/both routine I described. Same outcome, no unnecessary work.
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#57
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May I suggest a new replacement criterion: replace the rear tire when it measures > 1 mm (or another preset distance) wider than the front tire. Yes, this would require a caliper.
I recently measured both tires to better understand why they barely fit within another frame (since returned). The rear tire, which was noticeably squared off, measured > 1 mm wider than the front tire. Earlier this week I was about to go for an extra mid-week ride when I found that the rear tire has mysteriously gone flat, even though I inflate the tires before every ride and they were fine after the prior ride only a couple of days earlier.
I recently measured both tires to better understand why they barely fit within another frame (since returned). The rear tire, which was noticeably squared off, measured > 1 mm wider than the front tire. Earlier this week I was about to go for an extra mid-week ride when I found that the rear tire has mysteriously gone flat, even though I inflate the tires before every ride and they were fine after the prior ride only a couple of days earlier.
#58
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I ride on decent pavement and use Conti GP 5000. I ride them about 1800 mile ( 169 pounds me) miles then rotate the rear to front as long as the rear has no issues. Then I just ride them till they wear out. I easily get 4-5200 miles not km on them. I think because I don't live in the mountains a generally try to ride smoother roads. Sheldon said not to rotate tires but frankly I do because then I wear a set out even or close. Then if the front still has a bit of life, I keep it for a spare and eventually use it on the trainer. Believe me you can get flat on the trainer too by going too long..
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I bought 28mm tires for my bike but had to change out the front as it rubbed the fork with road debris sometimes. I have about 2000km.on a conti gp5000s on the rear right now with no serious sign of wear. I weigh around 235lbs and I run the tire at ~85psi tubeless. On that bike I ride with a mix of 80% road and 20% smoothish gravel riding.
#60
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Got 6000+km on my current set of 28c GP5000s. Run them at about 70psi tubed (my weight is about 88kg). Still lots of tread left according to the wear markers, and no increase in puncture frequency. So they'll stay on the bike until any of that changes.
#61
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My cycles do not have rear tires, they are the same front to back and I rotate them so they wear evenly and I get more miles out of them. As long as I am not riding on ice and am just doing casual fun riding and touring at moderate speeds, I don't worry about front tire wear. I have put so many years and miles on a set of new tires I replaced them not because they were smooth in the middle but because they were dry-rotted and I thought the sidewalls might blow out if I hit a pothole etc..
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I'm burning through tires compared to most on here...I don't really track that closely, but I'm guessing 1-1.5k out of 28mm GP5k on the rear.