Clincher Rim Weight List
12-13-21, 02:34 PM
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Clincher Rim Weight List
Doesn't seem to be one that google knows about. does anyone here happen to know of a list of weights for clincher rims?
really appreciate any help
thanks
Charlie
really appreciate any help
thanks
Charlie
12-13-21, 04:39 PM
#2
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Although it is not that up to date anymore, the weightweenies site has a list of component weights, including rims:
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php
https://weightweenies.starbike.com/listings.php
12-13-21, 07:24 PM
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There are a few lists out there, but they tend to go out of date quickly since they depend on enthusiasts. Narrowing it down by a particular size or characteristic might help. Are you shopping for something new, or trying to pick from old production too?
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12-14-21, 03:59 PM
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If you're interested in the weights of vintage rims, sometimes VeloBase has specs/measurements.
Since 650B is near and dear to my heart, I've tried to help keep this list up to date: https://supplelifeblog.wordpress.com.../23/650b-rimz/
Since 650B is near and dear to my heart, I've tried to help keep this list up to date: https://supplelifeblog.wordpress.com.../23/650b-rimz/
12-14-21, 04:04 PM
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I have always just googled each rim individually. I cant imagine keeping track of all the rims available.
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12-16-21, 06:51 PM
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Back in the late 1980s some manufacturers like Araya and Wolber added numbers to some high performance clincher rims to denote the "naked" rim weight. For example, the Araya CTL-370 rim weighed 370 grams, nekkid, one of the lightest aluminum clincher rims made. Other Araya and Wolber clincher rims had 4xx (numbers in the four-hundreds) to denote bare rim weight. The data for those rims -- PDFs and photocopies of old catalogs -- may be found in the archives of those websites, although the Araya data is buried in the Araya Japan site and not easy to find.
Keep in mind these rims were somewhat fragile at the time and may have lots of miles and years on them now. They were usually gray hard anodized aluminum, low profile. They could be finicky and needed tweaking once a week or so to true the wheels (depending on mileage, terrain, rider weight, etc).
I liked those Araya CTL-370 and Wolber Alpine Super Champion rims, which were standard on 1980s Centurion Ironman bikes, but both rear rims cracked at the spokes a couple of summers ago. The front wheels are still fine. Eventually I'll replace the rear wheels with comparable lightweight low profile rims, but I'll be more diligent about maintenance. Some folks recommend stripping the wheels of the tires, tubes and rim strips, de-tensioning the rims, then re-tensioning and tuning them only on a wheel truing stand, using a spoke tension gauge. I didn't do that and probably contributed to the rim failures. Or maybe they would have failed anyway after 30+ years.
For carbon fiber rims I just visit the manufacturers' websites.
Keep in mind these rims were somewhat fragile at the time and may have lots of miles and years on them now. They were usually gray hard anodized aluminum, low profile. They could be finicky and needed tweaking once a week or so to true the wheels (depending on mileage, terrain, rider weight, etc).
I liked those Araya CTL-370 and Wolber Alpine Super Champion rims, which were standard on 1980s Centurion Ironman bikes, but both rear rims cracked at the spokes a couple of summers ago. The front wheels are still fine. Eventually I'll replace the rear wheels with comparable lightweight low profile rims, but I'll be more diligent about maintenance. Some folks recommend stripping the wheels of the tires, tubes and rim strips, de-tensioning the rims, then re-tensioning and tuning them only on a wheel truing stand, using a spoke tension gauge. I didn't do that and probably contributed to the rim failures. Or maybe they would have failed anyway after 30+ years.
For carbon fiber rims I just visit the manufacturers' websites.
