OldsCOOL

The bike/tire coordination is electric. I'm heading out the door for a ride on mine in about 10 minutes. These bikes rock.

70sSanO

I actually find the bike to pretty stable for the amount of performance. It rides like it is on rails and, for me, I have never had any wobble or issues going downhill.

I know the bikes get comments for being harsh, but the early ones with the steel forks don't seem that bad. I think an aluminum fork might be a little harsher ride.

Every now and then I have looked at vintage steel/titanium bikes to replace it, but I just can't find anything I don't like about it.

As I age I keep changing the drivetrain. Currently running a 38/46 to a 12-32 Sachs 7 speed. I have an 8 speed conversion in the works, but I am still loving the 7.

John

OldsCOOL

They are a stable bike, it's to the unfamiliar that it's twitchy when comparing to other bikes. The harder you ride it, the more you appreciate it.

mtnbke

I've never had a Cannondale Crit as they didn't make them big enough for me, although I loved my tiny 63cm 3.0 series frame with the cantilevered dropouts. For this next build, as I have two ST800s already as touring bikes, I wanted something more race bikeish. However, the C'dale racing bikes never went bigger than the 66cm custom frames. So I have to use Sport Touring Cannondales with the caliper brake mounts (not the cantilever mounts) to approximate. The ST frames are identical across the line from the ST400 to the ST800/1000s.

Bought another 27"/69cm ST500 that someone had built up with Campagnolo Mirage 10-speed components. I was breaking it down today, as I couldn't care less about the Campy 10 drivetrain and wheel set. The 175mm UltraTorque crank is too small for me anyway. The 130mm Campy rear hub only took thumb pressure to remove from the dropouts.
I was just after the frame/fork but ran into a problem.

Then I discovered something I had never noticed about the bike. The downtube shifter/cable stops were missing. Instead there is black electrical tape over holes in the frame. Then it looks like new downtube shifter/cable stops were bondo'd or epoxied to the frame. Does anyone have a sense of why someone would have done this? Trying to figure out what I think of my purchase now. I'm not sure what I was going to run on this bike:

Mavic SSC 8-speed triple/long cage group building toward a "tout Mavic" bike (repainted to look like a Mavic Neutral Support bike)
Sachs New Success 8-speed triple/long cage group with or without the Ergolevers. Drawn towards selling the Sachs/Campy Ergolevers and using New Success 8-speed downtube shifters on Kelly Take Offs. I have the New Success cantilevers but they are fugly, getting the New Success road calipers so this frame would work.
Campy 8-speed Unicorn triple/long cage group with 8-speed Shimano spacing shifting disc mounted in the Campy 10speed Time Trial shifters (really just Syncro "III" downtube shifters on bar ends). Maybe with a Crest Cannondale paint scheme along with copying that famous Campagnolo decal from the racing C'dales.

When I'm all done even thought the bike will be an ST500 under the racing paint scheme, I'll totally believe in my head that it handles differently than my ST800 touring builds, even though all the ST frames are identical, regardless of model (maybe one has two bottle mounts and another three, or one is canti vs caliper, but beyond the rear spacing changes over time, within the model the frames should all be identical up to the Stanford/3.0series engineering "rethink." I guarantee you that I come back to the forums and post about how "racy" and "quick" my pretend a'Crit will be. (begin rant) Its a conspiracy against tall frames, damn it! If anyone can maximize the efficiency of a Cannondale wouldn't it b those of us with near 100cm pubic bone heights and 200mm + cranksets? Why punish us with just the Sport Touring frames only? Why? /end rant

If I use the aforementioned $100 per intact cable guide scale, I guess I still did okay (see images).

What the heck is up with those downtube stops? Thoughts? How will this look painted up? Can I return the bike to original stops? How do the stops mount in those frame holes. What is that stuff they used to mount the new stops?







The best thing about this C'dale acquisition is I didn't have to buy the Quill extender, it came with the build. Someone out there is just like me! Then why the hell did he sell it to me?

While breaking the bike down I realized my external bottom bracket tool won't work on Campy UltraTorque external BBs. Snuck in under the deadline for the Nashbar 21% off sale with free shipping and ordered the tool. (begin rant) I couldn't believe it was like $20? How is it really different than a $5 park FR-5 Cassette Removal tool? Does it use another ounce of steel? That annoyed me, $20 for a tool I'll probably never use again. I'll build this up with IRD 200mm cranks, not Campagnolo. Campy cranks only come in a very limited range of sizes. Heck, back in the day you could get Campy in 177.5mm and 180mm, and even 182.5mm I think. When did the world assume that every cyclist on a 49cm through a 64cm frame (excluding those of us that really need customs) all can ride a 175mm crank. Zinn is right, its idiotic. All they care about is not having to produce, stock, distribute more size specific product. Essentially I bet 30% of cyclists are on the "wrong" size crank. How many people ever actually try up a length (by 2.5mm) or down a length to find out?

Don't even get me started on wheel size. The whole 650b thing is ********, in my mind. What a wheel set feels like on a given bicycle is a function of the proportional relationship of that wheel size to the bicycle, not just some static thing. A 650b touring bike is NOT a "650b" touring bike the same on a 49cm, 56cm, and 69cm frames. Now the industry wants to eliminate 26" mountain bike standard AND the 29er option. The distributers, retailers, and manufactures want everyone to be on 650b/27.5 because it makes for more efficient distribution and sales channels. I'll bet the sheep of the world go for that nonsense. The reality is that my 29er wheels on my 23" 29er are probably what 27.5 wheels feel like on a 17 or 19 inch frame. Someone with a 15" frame would get that EXACT same proportional feel and rolling efficacy on 26" wheels. Its all relative to the size of the rider, their weight, and the size of the frame and wheel set. Silly cyclists. There are people that were angry they couldn't fit on a 29er because their frame size was too small. Those people on a 29er would be like me on a 34er or 36er. Why do we let them get away with treating us like we are as dumb as we really are. Do tiny little Mini Cooper need the same size tires as big diesel extended cab trucks? Should a family minivan use the same size tires as a Corvette or Porsche? /Rant end

In taking off the Fizik bar tape I learned I hated Fizik bar tape. It was really nice tape, and it had a lot of life left in it, it just was wrapped really badly. Only in trying to unwrap it the tape it was ripping the top half of the synthetic tape apart. Fizik apparently doesn't want anyone to EVER use their tape again a second time. I did find some cool Fizik gel sticky under tape inserts. No offense to Specialized but I'll call 'em Zerts. I'll reuse those for sure. I might even need to source those for my other bikes. Anyone having old Fizik Zerts they don't want let me know. I'll take 'em.

pastorbobnlnh 

With a frame this size, the over-sized tubes just disappear.



Given the size of the frame and your reflections about the whole MTB multiple wheel size revolution; is it a logical conclusion, that on a frame the size you need, it would be ideal to also scale up the wheel size? Of course this would mean custom made rims, extra long spokes, and custom made tires (probably the most costly of the three).

I do understand what you are saying about wheel size. Over the winter I picked up a 20" wheel folding Dahon ($150) that I can fit in an airline approved suitcase and check as luggage. I've used it extensively on two different trips and have put almost 600 miles on it since January. On my second trip, I modified it with drop bars and barend shifters, added a double crankset (53-42), and a tighter 12-24 8 speed freewheel. So it was set up like a road bike.



As pictured it weighed about 25lbs, so not too bad, and lighter then my Schwinn fillet brazed Super Sports and Sport Tourers. Handling was good. But efficiency seemed to go way down, and I can only attribute this to the smaller wheels. Maybe the wide tires also added to the effect? Who knows?

But back to custom sized wheels. If these were available, you could shrink your frame some, but what sized wheel would you use? Could you use your cranks as a guide? Since you have increased 30mm (from the most used size of 170mm) to 200mm, does it make sense to move from 622mm to 652mm?

That's a real shame what was done to the cable stops.

mtnbke

Pastorbob - can you come up with any narrative of the "why" of why that was done to the stops? Are their different downtube boss standards, as in Campagnolo downtube shifters not working on the same bosses as Suntour, Shimano, etc.? The strange thing is that wouldn't even make sense since the bike was being used with Campy 10sp Ergolevers. The question is now, what do I do? When I repaint this how do I approach the putty/epoxy mess. I don't think you can powder coat non-metal. What happens to the Play-Dough when it goes through the curing oven? What a mess.

As for your thoughts on wheel size, yep been there done that.

Quick synopsis:
Zinn who specializes in Big/TALL bicycles could have used 630 (27") wheels instead of 622 (700c) wheels to gain the 4mm radius. The other 4mm of the 8mm variance helps aesthetically, but its a functional 4mm difference from the dropout to the road. Zinn didn't even consider it. Cyclists are idiots. We don't refer to wheel sizes by their ISO standards (630, 622, 584). Everyone likes 700c is "sounds" French and racingish. Saying "twenty-seven inch" conjures up boat anchor steel bikes Schwinn was foisting on the US public. However, something magical happens when we start talking about 630 and 622, respectively. 630 isn't pejorative or connotative the way the "twenty-seven inch" descriptor is. Think about this, how many fools would be doing 650b conversions if the movement talked about those bikes being 584 conversions? Think about that. Cycling is as much about vanity and prejudice and marketing as anything. There is no sacred cow on a 584 (650b) compared to the 559 (26" mountain bike standard). Its a marginal 25mm. What people like is that 650b is connotative of european touring, and a lot of Jan Heine nonsense. In reality, how a bike rides is a function of the proportionality of the size of the wheel set to the frame mixed with the trail, rake, and geometry and even the riders weight and style comes into it. There is nothing magical or sacred about a size, though, just a relational proportion. Which is hilarious because a lot of people had the sweet-spot of 650b proportionality on their smaller 26" bikes. Moving the wrong size bike to 584 gets you a 650b claim, but moves you out of the sweet spot. Its about proportionality, not some magic feather.

Zinn and I have talked and emailed about the wheel size. I think every Zinn should have been built on 630 rims, or even the 635 German standard we don't see here. Zinn indicates that every customer would have wanted 700c and he'd have not sold any bikes, even though the wheels would be more proportional. He also made a great point that the high end offering of tires would have undermined the effort to use larger wheels. Essentially, there isn't a market for high end 630 tires as much as 622. In the end his point was that he just didn't have the energy to fight the wheel battle and the crank length battle.

I talked to multiple people at Velocity. At one point I was going back and forth, Zinn to Velocity, trying to get something going. Velocity WANTED to make what they called the 750. I don't know actually what the ISO dimension of that would have been. Maybe even really a 750. They indicated they would actually roll them out tomorrow (they can custom adjust the rim size pretty easily) if there was a single manufacturer/supplier of tires. The tires ended up being the issue. Velocity thought they'd sell a ton of big hoops to kids on BIG fixes. With no tire, why make a rim?

Now the interesting thing is that since Black Sheep Zammer 36er and others have been doing the 36er there is now actually a non-unicycle 36" tire. Compare that to a 559, 584, 622, and 630 and the 36" tire comes in at I think 787. Waltworks now makes or has made a real mountain bike 36er/787 tire. Will there be a road tire or cruiser tire that can handle higher pressures and corner fast? I hope so.

I'd love to have a bike with the geometry problems of a 49cm bike on 622s. I hate the way "my bikes" look. I don't choose to ride mini-velos I just end up that way.

If I had to ask you what my "natural" size wheel would be, what would you guess? What I mean by that is that it would build a bike that looked like everyone else's 622 bike. I don't know what that size would be. The problem with tall people is that our bikes don't get bigger everywhere, just taller, mostly. So I don't know the answer.

For fun let's measure my road bike from the fork crown race to the center of the stem & handlebar interface, and you measure your cool Dahon the same way. As I look at those pictures, believe it or not, with all that open triangle, I think they might be close. Which would be sad and hilarious. I feel like my bikes look the way your Dahon looks, only not in the cool way.

I have so much cycling envy. I think that's why I'm always "cycling angry" I'm left out in the cold and you guys get to find cool amazing stuff all the time. I just keep looking for my same Cannondales. I don't even have a 2nd bike model/line to buy other than searching for a Zinn. I've still never seen/heard of the 68cm-70cm Kleins. I buy a lot of Craigslist bikes "for friends" and my wife. Just picked up an aluminum/carbon Mercier with Dura-Ace/Ultegra mix in a 56cm. One shimano paired spoke wheel, one normal. Lovely 10sp build. I would give anything to be able to throw a leg over bikes like that and just "see" what they rode like. I LOVE bicycles, but there aren't any for me! I posted the Mercier in the Road bikes forum section. I think the top tube will be too long for my wife the same way every other road bike has too long of a top tube. However, if I waited for 27"/69cm stuff on Craigslist all I'd ever get to buy would be noodly steel. Regardless of anyones opinions of aluminum vs. steel, we can all agree steel should never build bikes over some size barrier. Especially with some of those vintage tubes. I love the American scheme on the Raleigh with the 555sl tube set (I think) which they did in 27"/69cm. However, I don't need to ride it to know its a waste of time. They are all the same. Noodly and dangerously flexy. I can cause a misshift just by hammering on the cranks the frame will flex that much.

Cycling needs to grow up and realize chasing the latest paradigm is NOT good for the industry:

630/27" wheels
622/700c wheels
index shifting
suspension adjusted geometry
aluminum
8-speed
S-M-L-XL (four frame size, compact geometry or "always the wrong size bike")
Aheadsets
carbon
V-brakes
9-speed
external BBs w/wide Q-factor
disc brakes
584/650b
10-speed
11-speed

There shouldn't be the "next thing" especially considering half the innovations aren't significantly better and involve tradeoffs. LBS are disingenuous. They just are pressuring manufacturers to make EVERY mountain bike 650b. They want one wheel size for mountain bikes and one for road. A 5' woman and a 6'7" man do NOT need to be riding the same wheel size. /rant

I'd LOVE to know what the hell you guys were talking about with the crit handling of your Cannondale Criterium bikes. I'd probably kill myself I'd be so top heavy, but I wish C'dale had made a really big Crit bike, just so I could see what you guys were going on about. I guarantee you I'd never be cornering them or throwing them around the way you guys respond. Things feel a lot less sure footed on big bikes, is my takeaway.

mtnbke

JYL you don't need to try to arm wrestle me for my Mavic 27.2 post, there is one on eBay right now to help bring your "tout Mavic" build back together. I won't link to it, but it should be easy to find. I don't recognize the seller's name grizz.ru from the C&V forums, and its his only item, so be careful.

It is very very cheap right now. A Mavic seat post can go to $200. Somone in C&V had an odd size bike that took something not common. He once said his Tout Mavic bike didnt have the seat post because Mavic didn't make it in his bike's seat post size. I posted (or PMd) him the link to one. I don't think he bought it. If Mavic seaspost weren't setback posts I'd be buying another one. However, I don't know the results of my Selle Anatomica saddle experiment yet, which may or may not allow me to use all the group correct seat post with setback that I just keep in the parts bin. If I knew I was going to be able to use the Selle Anatomica saddles...

shoota 

Lol good one.

OldsCOOL

Just got in from another hill ride. The first 5 miles is "kinda" flat, where there are small knolls that knock a few mph off the speed, then there is a turn that puts you up a 2 mile hill and 3 miles of rollers. It's a fast and fun ride that is just made for Strava. The hilly section is cracked and segmented chip seal but not a deterrent for the adventurous. I love this bike.

delicious

Nice build!

OldsCOOL

Back to OT

This bike continues to amaze me in the way it fits (most importantly) but also in it's rideability in short sprints, 15mi TT's and even more into the world of endurance rides to which I have done several metrics and 70mi rides. There has been caution through the years about mounting 130mm modern wheelsets. After 2 seasons and 4,000 miles there are no cracks in the aluminum frame.

Total bike weight with saddle and pedals (duhh) it weighs in at 20.2lbs sporting the Vuelta Corsa Lite wheelset and Michelin Krylion 23's.

This season, I am even more pleased with this bike's feel, almost intuitive steering and outrageous climbing ability. Oh, I didnt lose any feelings, no worse road buzz than my other bikes, no scro-butt.

1100 Springs

Has anyone put Compass tires on these bikes? I want try some Cayuse Pass if they will fit since they come in blackwall

oddjob2

I fully believe that @OldsCOOL is trying to promote and elevate Cannondale Crits like a certain bike forum member known for promoting Centurion Ironmans.

Homebrew01

@mtnbke. What did you end up doing with the frame. You can put original down tube bosses on if you want. 1 version used riveted bosses, and others were screwed together with a threaded rod going through the tube.

My guess is that someone removed the originals for some reason, and lost them, so came up with a replacement. Or maybe didn't realize the originals could be converted to cable stops.

OldsCOOL

mtnbke

Oh for the love of all that is reasonable in the world, please do not put any of Captain Disingenuous's tires on a Cannondale. Just my personal opinion, but all his nonsense how a bike "planes" or his false narrative about 584/650b, he just doesn't understand that wheels are proportional to the cyclist, and there is no magic feather wheel size for all of cycledom. What is a sweet spot for him is not the same as what is proportionally different for someone on a 49cm frame or someone on a 69cm frame. There is nothing special, magical or sacred cow about 650b, and when you talk about that wheel size in terms of its ISO designation as just 584, the sacred cow in the 650b movement goes out the window, if it ever existed. There isn't much I agree with Jan Heine on. I love that he's passionate about bikes, but he's a used car salesman in my book. Sometimes all he's trying to sell is what resonates to me as a false narrative. Take that for what its worth. Which considering its just a post to an internet forum, shouldn't be much.

I think Cannondale bikes deserve quality tires. Most folks don't realize that smaller racing profile clinchers have a higher rolling resistance that wider tires. People like the look of 622-19, 622-21, or 622-23 tires because they look Pro's Pro and aggressive, but mostly those are just poseur tires. Clinchers absolutely do NOT behave the same as tubulars. Pros race on lower rolling resistance tubulars in narrow profile widths has NOTHING to do with what our poseur clinchers do, how they perform, but have everything to do with how they look. I like wider tires on C'dales because of how they ride. I also ride my C'dales on the original 630 rim standard (27") not the 622 that everyone thinks of as 700c. That's a misnomer as that French designation was a function of a standard for rolling circumference that modern 622s do not meet. That's all 700c meant in the French system. Every 700c tire/wheel combination that was 700c compliant would roll to some exact arbitrary rolling circumference for one full revolution. That's why, in my opinion its ignorant to talk of the 700c wheel, and modern 622 rims and tires are actually not 700c compliant. Each standard (700a, 700b, 700c, 700d) had it own standard. I call them 622 rims or tires because that is what they are in ISO which makes much more sense. The great Sheldon Brown like the ISO standard for his own reasons:

Tire Sizing Systems

Something interesting happens when you talk about ISO tire sizes. Jane Heine's 650b love affair makes a lot less sense when you abandon the connotative and emotionally loaded 650b terminology and his rhetoric combines with the ISO sizing language of 584. Once you locate in context that you are merely talking about a wheel size that is slightly larger than a 559/26" mountain bike wheel and slightly smaller than a 622/700c road wheel. When you realize that a common triathlon and time trial wheel size, and women's road bike wheel size for very small bikes (like Terry makes) already used a 571/650c standard it becomes kind of ludicrous that Jan Heine would advocate for a wheel size that was merely only about 6mm larger on the radius than something commonly existent with the 571/650c.

However, he's NOT entirely wrong, either. What I find disingenuous about his 584 rhetoric is that he tries to advocate that size as a magic feather for all of cycledom. What I think he really should say is that in his experience, for his body proportions and for his range of frame sizes this is how a 584 wheel set feels compared to 559 or 622. I will say this, in his defense, that I ABSOLUTELY prefer 630 wheels, tires and tyres (I love me Contis) over 622 kit. There is only a marginal 4mm radial difference from 622 wheels, which is about half of the variance from 559 to 584. What Jan is talking about with 584 from 559 is a difference of 25mm, or about 12mm on the radius. Going from the existent 571 to the 584 gave Jan another 13mm or about 6mm on the radius. Is he splitting hairs at that point? Actually…no. As much as I think Jan is full of crap about how he talks about how a bike "planes", which I throw in the same pretentious and idiotic category as people discussing "flavor notes" with wine or beer, the point being to validate themselves more than actually enjoying a nice glass or pint, Jan is actually right in that, for him, he notices a ride improvement over those small variances. In this one case with Jan I don't feel his rhetoric is the "narcissism of small differences."

I notice that my 630 rims/tyres and tires roll much smoother than if I set the same bike up with identical tyre/tire models with identical widths and the same make/model/guage(s) of spokes and the same hubs, all ran at the same pressures. That 4mm variance between 630 wheels and 622 wheels actually feels absolutely smoother. It makes for a marginally larger diameter wheel that just rolls over cracks in the road and imperfections that much more freely. Its a tiny snapshot of the handling variance from a 559/26" mountain bike to a 622/29er mountain bike. Not that significant but still real. I do think we need a 584 or 571 mountain bike standard, since mountain bikes get so squirrelly and the geometry and handling get weird when small frames try to force themselves to accommodate a 29er wheel set. They are just too small and the geometry and dimensions just don't work. Different size wheels for different size folks. A person on a 15" mountain bike doesn't need a 622/29er wheel size to get a bike that "feels" like a 622/29er wheel "feels" like to someone on a 21" or 23" mountain bike. Again its about proportionality, not some magic feather wheel size. Jan doesn't get that. He is absolutely right that, for him, 584 rolls smoother than 559 or 571. I don't get why he doesn't prefer 622 or 630, but he has his reasons. I've never proportionately ridden a wheel size that is "too big" or that gives me feedback similar to what 622 wheel sets feel like to him. I don't even know what that wheel size, for me, would proportionately be to compare to him.

I think most people that converted their Cannondale bikes from 630/27" to 622/700c bikes made a huge mistake. The 630 wheel size gives a bike that is faster on flats and rollers (think "larger/heavier flywheel" on a sportscar). I think in a Crit you'd want the larger wheel set. Maybe I don't know what the hell I'm talking about and the Crit bikes were only ever 622/700c, I don't know. However a bunch of old C'dale bikes, including what I ride were originally 630. I keep them that way. They ride smoother, they are more stable (big bikes have stability and death wobble issues natively), and are actually faster. In fact for some period Cannondale tandems were built to accept both the superior 630 touring wheel size AND 622 wheels without needing different long reach brakes. How's that for kool?

All that being said, the idea of a Jan Heine tire on a Cannondale gives me the willies. Its like putting a carbon fiber fork, or Campagnolo EPS on a Grant Bridgestone or a Rivendell. Its just wrong. I love to make fun of the marketing rhetoric and false narrative of Santana and Rivendell, too, but for some reason Jan Heine just rankles me more.

So if you care what some random stranger thinks, please for all that is right in cycledom do NOT use Compass tires on a C'dale. You can get nice low rolling resistance Panaracer Paselas in sensible widths (25, 28, 32, 35, 37…) and they are very go fast tires with low rolling resistance that are very very very light. I think a 622-32 or 630-32 is only 390g for a steel bead, and if you go up to the Pasela TG you lose some of the low rolling resistance but gain a belted tire for flat resistance and they still only get up to around 410g with a steel bead, and as low as 360g with a folding bead. I currently use Schwalbe Marathon and Marathon Plus tires, Panaracer Pasela and Pasela TG tires, and a whole host of Continental tyres. Conti doesn't make 35c tires that aren't cyclocross, otherwise I'd just continue my love affair with all things Conti tyres (even have 'em on the car). In my opinion the Schwalbe's are the lowest quality of the Panaracer, Contis, and Schwalbe tires I use. Schwalbe tires are not German, as many people think, they are a German importer for Asian manufactured tires. Schwalbe started just as an importer for the Swallow Korean brand of tires with their branding:

Company History | Schwalbe North America

I don't think most people realize that a Schwalbe isn't a Schwalbe the way a Continental actually is a Conti. Regardless I've found that Panaracer tires and Continental tyres are a much higher quality than Schwalbe, for what its worth. What is interesting is that Schwalbe Korean made tires sell at a higher price point than many "better" Japanese made Panaracer tires. Go figure.

I think Panaracer tires and Continental tyres on Cannondale bikes just make sense, especially in wider widths. I don't have a SAG wagon or MAVIC neutral support when I ride and there are a lot of rough sections of pavement and gravel parts of our path system, so I prefer touring tires/tyres. Your personal preferences may be different. I think I can fit up to 630-32 tires on most of my C'dales. What can you fit on the Crit bikes?

mtnbke

At an impasse in terms of needing decals. The C'dale ST with the franken-epoxy bosses is just hanging on the wall. If someone sees a C'dale at the local Coop that was destroyed going through a drive through on a roof rack, or something, and it has the threaded downtube bosses and the hardware, score those for me, please. Sold off the C'dale Mirage 10-speed kit and the Centaur hubs/Deep-V wheel set. What I'd like to do with that frame is one of the following:

1. Mavic Neutral Support scheme, built mostly as a 'tout Mavic' build.
Photo Gallery: Riding shotgun with Mavic neutral support | Road Bike News, Reviews, and Photos

2. Black Lightning scheme
Not sure "which" Black Lightning, either the Mario Cippolini Giro scheme, the anniversary edition, or the original (good enough for Sheldon Brown):
ITALIAN CYCLING JOURNAL: Four Cannondale Bikes That Had a Role in Giro History
https://www.weeride.co.nz/documents/RIDEIssue38.pdf
Sheldon Brown's Bicycle Page

3. Crest Cannondale scheme (not sure whether I want a faux team bike or a faux team replica bike)
Project 2010 Team Crest Cannondale - The Simple Bicycle

4. Just about any Saeco/Liquigas scheme:
Photo Special: Arrivederci Team Cannondale - PezCycling News

Anyone who has any insight on how to do Cannodale Crest decals or a Mavic Neutral Support decals please let me know. I'd much rather start with one of those than a Saeco/Liquigas build or a Black Lightning scheme.

Homebrew01

I think I have some from old SR racing bikes.

Not sure how well they would match the downtube diameter.

rccardr 

All SR/Criterium series bikes used 700c sized wheels. All ST series (including AA,BB and CC frames) used 27" wheels.

I agree that there is no one wheel size perfect for all riders, but personally I prefer the 700c wheel on my ST. At 5'10 or so and 195, we are clearly different sized people, so there is that.

Also agree that the Panaracer Pasela series is a lovely tire, the TG in particular as it seems to have superior flat protection combined with the kevlar loop for easier mounting/dismounting.

Pretty sure I have a set of original DT mounts in the parts closet, shoot me an e-mail at rccardr@cox.net if nobody else comes through for you. They are all the same size radius between SR and ST frames, although the actual design changed slightly several times.

OldsCOOL

My black beauty is getting fresh decals from Vintage Cannondale. It's the '88 Criterium Series set in red. No more stealth mode. Should look nice with the Vuelta wheelset and Michelin tires with red stripe. Will post pics when done.

RobbieTunes

Man, that is going to be nice.

OldsCOOL

Freshly applied decals! The paint job and build is finally finished. Been waiting the past 2 seasons to do this. Thanks to Vintage Cannondale and 25clams, here it is:

oddjob2

Looks hot!

OldsCOOL

On a cold night. ***sigh***

pastorbobnlnh 

@OldsCOOL so if there is the Black Lightening with gold decals, your Cannondale must be the "Fire Ball" edition! Very hot!

Took my black with red decals '88 ST400 out for a spin today. I'm testing riding @mtnbke 's Joe's RD before sending it back to CO. It does shift nicely with the Shimano friction barends.

Decided to visit "The Heap" at our town's dump. Where's Waldo?







At first I didn't see much, but decided to take a look around the backside of "The Heap" and found a Schwinn Super Sport carcass. It had been rattle canned flat white, was missing the rear wheel, and the Brooks B15 saddle. Was good for a few bits.