anotherbike

I'm working on a 1986 Raleigh Mountain Tour Grand Mesa and noticed the front wheel bearings are noisy. It don't use lose balls or caged bearings, it has cartridge bearings.
Both hubs are original and have the OEM red 'sealed bearing hub' decal.
(both hubs and the bb use sealed cartridge bearings).
I've had similar Raleigh USA bikes before but I've never seen one with true sealed cartridge bearings before.
There is no local bike shop here, so I need to know what to order.
I don't see any numbers on the outside of the bearings but they're still in the hub.
I'm not 100%sure yet how they come out. I was expecting the axle to just slide out like on a motorcycle but its secured in the hub somehow. There doesn't seem to be any way to get hold of them and with the axle in place, there's no way to tap them out from behind.

tricky 

Sealed bearings are different than cartridge bearings. Sealed bearings are standard bearings with seals keeping out gunk. Cartridge are cartridge. 1986 would be really early for cartridge bearings unless they are Paul hubs and you said they are OEM so they wouldn't be. Post some pics when you can.

Have you disassembled bicycle hubs before? Modern thru-axle hubs are similar to motos, but on the older hubs you need to remove the lock nut holding on the cone, then remove the cone to remove the bearings and axle. Here are some good Park Tool instructions: https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair...and-adjustment

dedhed

On my 84 gran prix they were just rubber seals over standard cup & cone. I went to the bearing supply house with them and they measured them up and found replacements for me. BB as well

T-Mar

The axle likely has raised shoulders inboard of the bearings, which keep it captive. Remove any locknuts, washers and spacers from the axles and place support one end of the hub on the jaws of a vice, opened just wide enough to provide clearance for the bearing to be driven out. Tap the other end of the axle with a hammer, to drive out the bearing. See attached scan.

Most sealed cartridge bearings have a part number on the rubber seal. If not just take them to industrial supply house, where they should be apply to supply you with equivalent bearings based on the critical inner and outer diameters.

Given the era and level, I wouldn't be surprised if these are a Sanshin hub. They typically used 6001RS bearings which have a 12mm inner diameter and 28mm outer diameter.

Edit: You may want to use a piece of hardwood to protect the axle end from damage, when being hit by the hammer.

dedhed

If they're like this they are just seals on cup & cone.. If I remember tonight I'll look, I saved the original seals

Vintage Raleigh Sealed / Araya 27" x 1 1/4" Front Wheel: 32H - Silver - Bike Recyclery

anotherbike

I've rebuilt dozens of bikes in my day, but never ran into anything like this.
I was able to get the front hub apart, the axle is 10mm at the threaded ends.
I used a battery terminal puller to apply some constant pressure against the one end of the axle.
I then used a heat gun to slowly warm up the hub around the bearing, and it eventually popped loose, the bearing came out
with the axle. I then pressed the bearing off the axle in an arbor press.
The bearings are sealed, the OD is 30mm, the ID is 10mm, and the race section is 9mm, but the center of the bearing is extended 5mm on one side.
The axle is only threaded on the ends, the center has a 11.3mm thick 'shoulder' that acts as a bearing stop. There's a loose spacer on each side that measures 5mm wide with a 10mm center. The threads stop beneath that spacer. The bearings are pressed into the axle and onto the axle. It took a good bit of force to remove the bearings.
There are no numbers on the bearings, but the back of the rubber seals both have the letters NSK and EX6200RS. I can find 6200RS bearings but not with the extended center portion. The axle has a staggered "SR" stamped into the middle but no numbers.
The hubs are steel, they appear from the outside to be three pieces pressed together. They look like any other mid 80's low end Raleigh hub. I had a set that looked just like these on a Raleigh Marathon years ago, but those had normal bearings and cones.

The BB on this bike is cartridge bearings. The crankset is a cheap looking stamped steel with aluminum arm Raleigh scripted model, the BB looks normal till you take a close look. The outer side of both cups has a rubber seal, and the inner part has a sealed cartridge bearing, and the crank axle is shouldered much like the front axle.
I haven't opened up the rear hub yet but it looks similar to the front.

The bike has its stock 650B steel rims, although they're square patterned not dimpled like most I've seen online on this model. Both rims are Stamped simply Raleigh 26x1 1/2x1 5/8". The spokes are stainless, its got side pull brakes and a 4 bolt SR BMX style alloy stem.
The bike came from an older guy who was the original owner. Even the tires are still original Raleigh gumwalls. I don't think anything has been changed or upgraded on it.

dedhed

You're looking for a 30 x 10 x 9 with a "Wide inner ring" or "Wide inner race", or "extended ring" Depending on whose nomenclature you use.

Best bet is to talk to a bearing supply house

Something like this
https://www.bearingrevolution.co.uk/...et-range-36172

anotherbike

That's the style bearing but with rubber seals and a 9mm wide.
The bearings sit proud of the hub about 2mm on both sides in the front but are flush on the rear hub.
Even with the noisy front bearing, the wheels on this thing will spin forever. I gave the front wheel a good spin with it on the stand the other day and it spun for a good 15 minutes or more. Is the right front bearing making the noise, I can feel its a bit rough in one spot. I popped out the inner seal and there's no sign of any lube inside. No dry grease, just completely dry.
The other bearing is well oiled. It feels like there are a few pits in the bearing race, I added a few drops of oil, but its not a permanent fix. I can't hear the bearing while riding, the tires and road noise likely drown it out, but it sounds like pretty bad when I just spin the wheel by hand.

There are no local bearing suppliers anymore, the last one closed up about 10 years ago here.
I sent a few emails off to a couple of the larger online bearing suppliers. I don't see anything with the correct specs listed online though.

Worst case scenerio is that I clean and lube the bearing and leave it be for the time being, it spins freely and can't be felt while riding. It may last a long time like it is.

T-Mar

You shouldn't need the exact replacement with a wide inner race. Just use a standard 6200RS with an appropriately sized spacer for compensation.

dedhed

https://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...fi=hd:;si:;mv:[[41.096601299999996,-74.0612812],[39.4484843,-74.6470835]];tbs:lrf:!1m4!1u3!2m2!3m1!1e1!1m4!1u2!2m2!2m1!1e1!2m1!1e2!2m1!1e3!3sIAE,lf:1,lf_ui:2

anotherbike

I was thinking about that, I have a sleeve of 6200-2RS bearings with the blue seals on them I bought to fix an electric motor a few years ago. It was cheaper to buy a tube of 10 bearings than to buy just 2.
They're an odd brand but say made in Japan. They feel a lot tighter or have more seal drag though than the originals. The bearings in it have almost no resistance, and even just a bit of play, the 6200-2RS bearings I have with the blue seals were
bought as replacements for an electric pump motor. I think they may also be some grade of stainless steel because the OEM bearings I was getting kept rusting, so I ordered these aftermarket and solved the problem for good.

I'd need to find something to make the spacers out of, I figured I'd be making both sides and making it one big spacer vs. adding to the existing spacer.
The current spacer is not secured, it just sits there on the axle. The axles are nutted so they don't go tumbling though when you pull the wheel.

tricky 

Wow, I stand corrected about these not being cartridge bearings. Sorry for the bad info. Post some pics, I would be really interested to see these.