Shoes for toe clip pedals?
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Shoes for toe clip pedals?
I have a set of toe clip pedals (at least I think they are called toe clips) on an old Fuji I picked up for a winter bike. Since they are on with locktite I can't get them off the cranks for now, at least. All my other pedals are spd and if I can get these off I will add spd as these toe clips are killing me. I just don't feel right in them.
But the toe clips are also ripping the toes of my spd shoes.
What do you wear with these pedals??
I can add photos of the pedals if needed
But the toe clips are also ripping the toes of my spd shoes.
What do you wear with these pedals??
I can add photos of the pedals if needed
#2
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Modern shoes for use with clipless pedals tend to have taller toe boxes than traditional bike shoes, which is probably why your SPD shoes are getting scuffed by the clips. If you can get the clips off the pedals, you could replace them with MTB clips, which have a taller opening for the shoe. Otherwise, dress shoes with stiff leather soles or bowling shoes work. And traditional bike shoes with stiff soles and slotted cleats can still be had from e.g. eBay.
N.B. heat will loosen Locktite and even galvanic corrosion, so if you have a heat gun or hair dryer try warming the crank/pedal connection before trying to remove the pedals.
N.B. heat will loosen Locktite and even galvanic corrosion, so if you have a heat gun or hair dryer try warming the crank/pedal connection before trying to remove the pedals.
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I'm an SPD guy too, but I "need" to use old school toe clips for Eroica events. It's a rule deal. I found these Louis Garneau Nickel shoes that take a recessed spd cleat, but still work with the clips. I would dump the toe clips, and swap to spd, but if you stick with the toe clips, these should work either way. $39 at Nashbar, but other places should have them too. They include black laces too. I'm currently using half clips, but they're OK with full clips, too.
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JohnDthompson
I sprayed the threads with PB blaster but l was lifting the Park stand off the floor. Never heard of heat for locktite. Will let the PB blaster soak in and try again. I expect a propane torch is too much and I should stick with a hairdryer??
Slightspeed
Thank you, I don't want to destroy my Spd shoes when there is a better way.
I sprayed the threads with PB blaster but l was lifting the Park stand off the floor. Never heard of heat for locktite. Will let the PB blaster soak in and try again. I expect a propane torch is too much and I should stick with a hairdryer??
Slightspeed
Thank you, I don't want to destroy my Spd shoes when there is a better way.
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JohnDthompson
I sprayed the threads with PB blaster but l was lifting the Park stand off the floor. Never heard of heat for locktite. Will let the PB blaster soak in and try again. I expect a propane torch is too much and I should stick with a hairdryer??
Slightspeed
Thank you, I don't want to destroy my Spd shoes when there is a better way.
I sprayed the threads with PB blaster but l was lifting the Park stand off the floor. Never heard of heat for locktite. Will let the PB blaster soak in and try again. I expect a propane torch is too much and I should stick with a hairdryer??
Slightspeed
Thank you, I don't want to destroy my Spd shoes when there is a better way.
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And, yes, heat may help. Who puts Loctite on pedal threads? That's something that I've never heard of...
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Back in the day...I didn't use half clips, mine had leather straps. I would ride with those canvas boat sneakers. Oh yes, and blue jeans, cutoffs, tee shirts and certainly no helmet.
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I was using indoor soccer shoes of all things on my clips, because they had smooth soles and had a very low profile toe cap. They worked well enough, but they weren't as stiff as I would have liked. All the while I used them, I was searching for the old style riding shoes that were meant for clips. Finally found a nice pair on eBay that are actually my size. Took a long time to find a pair in a 44. European feet must be very small!
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Heat will loosen lacktite and epoxy as said and as usual sheldonbrown has good advise.
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-pedals.html
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/stuck-pedals.html
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This might be a silly question, but are you sure you're turning the right way on the pedals? Have you tried both sides? Left pedal should be reverse threaded. If you've only tried that one, you may just going the wrong direction.
If you already know this, disregard the post.
If you already know this, disregard the post.
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Shoes: DVS/Cinelli Luster
Comfortable, durable, relatively cheap if you look around a bit.
(Dunno what's going on with the pictured colors. Mine are black/black with a little bit of the Cinelli green/gold/orange.)
Comfortable, durable, relatively cheap if you look around a bit.
(Dunno what's going on with the pictured colors. Mine are black/black with a little bit of the Cinelli green/gold/orange.)
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A race bike in any era is a highly personal choice that at its "best" balances the requirements of fit, weight, handling, durability and cost tempered by the willingness to toss it and oneself down the pavement at considerable speed. ~Bandera
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The better way is to pull the cranks off and place the crank arm in a good bench vise. That way, you can put an extension on your 15mm wrench and torque away. That should do it.
And, yes, heat may help. Who puts Loctite on pedal threads? That's something that I've never heard of...
And, yes, heat may help. Who puts Loctite on pedal threads? That's something that I've never heard of...
on the bike you loosen pedals by turning toward the rear wheel
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
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(looking for Torpado Super light frame/fork or for Raleigh International frame fork 58cm)
#15
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Ahhh, simple times...simple times.
I was using indoor soccer shoes of all things on my clips, because they had smooth soles and had a very low profile toe cap. They worked well enough, but they weren't as stiff as I would have liked. All the while I used them, I was searching for the old style riding shoes that were meant for clips. Finally found a nice pair on eBay that are actually my size. Took a long time to find a pair in a 44. European feet must be very small!
I was using indoor soccer shoes of all things on my clips, because they had smooth soles and had a very low profile toe cap. They worked well enough, but they weren't as stiff as I would have liked. All the while I used them, I was searching for the old style riding shoes that were meant for clips. Finally found a nice pair on eBay that are actually my size. Took a long time to find a pair in a 44. European feet must be very small!
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The Yellow Jersey Bike Shop in. Wisconsin (the town escapes me right now) sells slotted cleats that fit Look and SPD bolt pattern shoes. I think they're about $30 a pair. Why not just keep it all vintage? I'm still using toe cages and wearing my Detto shoes.
Jon
Jon
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Pretty much all of my bikes have clips and straps. For "formal" rides, like L'Eroica I'll wear real cycling shoes, but the rest of the time I wear sneakers. As long as the tops are smooth enough to not interfere with the clips or straps, and the soles are not too wide and too thin, they all work fine for me. Currently I use these, and like them a lot, both for riding and walking:
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But the OP should be warned -- properly used, slotted cleats on hard-soled shoes in old-school pedals with clips and straps will LOCK your foot in the pedal, and the only way out is to quickly loosen the strap at the buckle. Personally, this is one part of the C&V expericence I'm happy to leave behind. Yes, you can loosen the straps (or the left strap at least) to the point where you can jerk your foot out in a pinch, but that partly defeats the purpose of the slotted cleat. A plain hard-soled non-cleated shoe (BITD it would be something like a Bata Biker) might be a wiser choice, depending on how "high performance" you want to go.
Photos of the pedals would be helpful, BTW, to determine if they're even appropriate for slotted cleats.
NB: I'll likely be going up to YJ in the next week or two, if you'd like me to check out these cleats or anything else in person.
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I tried riding this bike with runners but no dice. I rode for about 45/48years with flat pedals but now that I am used to SPD I sadly can't transition back. I am going to try and fit in a "work" day in my garage this weekend and remove the pedals and fit SPD pedals (I also have to strip the wheel bearings and regrease) as it should be about 6C (40F).
Madpogue - thank you for your offer but my wife is giving me a new set of Shimano SPD shoes for Christmas and I better wear them....
Madpogue - thank you for your offer but my wife is giving me a new set of Shimano SPD shoes for Christmas and I better wear them....
#20
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BITD people with sport touring bikes might have used Avocet Touring shoes or Batas if they rode a lot of miles. Some of the modern retro touring shoes coming out of Europe should be about the same.
FWIW anyone that had invested in a $$$ all campy type pro level bike would have almost certainly have worn leather cycling shoes with cleats. Traditional cleated cycling shoes + clips and straps were functionally the same as clipless pedals. You did need to remember to loosen your strap before stopping, but that got to be second nature. SPD are more comfortable though. If you prefer them use them. Unless your bike is a museum piece not much point in troubling yourself. I don't really miss toe straps cutting into my feet on long steep climbs.
Last edited by Salamandrine; 12-13-18 at 06:47 AM.
#21
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For almost 50 years I have used toeclips and straps exclusively. My current favorite shoes are Giro Rumbles, but I also have some older Diadora mountain biking shoes and Lake BMX or skate shoes that are not too bad.
Nothing is as good as the old Avocet Touring shoes with the steel shanks and the slotted rubber soles.
Nothing is as good as the old Avocet Touring shoes with the steel shanks and the slotted rubber soles.
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I still have an old pair of the Avocet touring shoes that I use occasionally. They are getting pretty worn, which is the reason I switched to SPD pedals a few years ago.
My son uses his old track spikes, minus the spikes, for riding with toe clips. They are narrow and fairly smooth, and have a hard plastic bottom under the ball of the foot, where the pedal hits.
My son uses his old track spikes, minus the spikes, for riding with toe clips. They are narrow and fairly smooth, and have a hard plastic bottom under the ball of the foot, where the pedal hits.
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I've got 4e wide feet. I tried A number of indoor soccer shoes but nothing fit. So I took a belt sander to the soles of my New Balance cross trainers and added Super feet insoles. Definitely function over form though.
Last edited by bark_eater; 12-13-18 at 08:44 AM.
#24
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All my bikes have clips and straps. For the last four or five years I've been wearing 5-10 Freeriders, a fairly inexpensive cyclocross shoe. They look and feel good enough to wear all the time, on or off the bike. They are my go-to shoe for commuting and just about everything.
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Real cyclists use toe clips.
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jimmuller
Real cyclists use toe clips.
With great bikes comes great responsibility.
jimmuller
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All my bikes have clips and straps. For the last four or five years I've been wearing 5-10 Freeriders, a fairly inexpensive cyclocross shoe. They look and feel good enough to wear all the time, on or off the bike. They are my go-to shoe for commuting and just about everything.
Aware of the comments about these sort of shoes not being stiff enough, I bought the shoes 1/2 size larger than normal then made stiff inserts which have worked just grand. I made these from some 3mm thick ABS plastic I had. Used a shoe insert for the pattern and 'bobs yer uncle'. Longest day, so far, was 106 miles. Feet felt fine. Legs felt terrible.