so why no disk brakes on touring bikes?
#126
Senior Member
If you have something to say, start a new thread rather than drag out an 11 year old thread to comment on.
That said, I still hold the same opinion towards disc that I did 11 years ago. They aren’t “superior” to rim brakes. They are the same as rim brakes. I have ridden in mountains on road bikes, mountain bikes, and loaded touring bikes for 40+ years. I’ve even ridden tandems in those same mountains. Not once have I ever overheated a rim even when riding down those same mountains at 50+mph. How well a brake performs has more to do with how they are used than what the actual mechanism is.
The way that you avoid heating the rims...or rotors, for that matter... is to use the brakes quickly and sparingly. Hit them hard, slow down, and get off them. That’s for any kind of brake. You don’t squeeze on the brakes at the top of a hill and keep them on to the bottom. That’s how you overheat brakes.
That said, I still hold the same opinion towards disc that I did 11 years ago. They aren’t “superior” to rim brakes. They are the same as rim brakes. I have ridden in mountains on road bikes, mountain bikes, and loaded touring bikes for 40+ years. I’ve even ridden tandems in those same mountains. Not once have I ever overheated a rim even when riding down those same mountains at 50+mph. How well a brake performs has more to do with how they are used than what the actual mechanism is.
The way that you avoid heating the rims...or rotors, for that matter... is to use the brakes quickly and sparingly. Hit them hard, slow down, and get off them. That’s for any kind of brake. You don’t squeeze on the brakes at the top of a hill and keep them on to the bottom. That’s how you overheat brakes.
A new rim every two or so years? Pass... Even if one uses cheap rims the rebuilding is a hassle. And with expensive rims the costs start adding up.
#127
Senior Member
If you have something to say, start a new thread rather than drag out an 11 year old thread to comment on.
That said, I still hold the same opinion towards disc that I did 11 years ago. They aren’t “superior” to rim brakes. They are the same as rim brakes. I have ridden in mountains on road bikes, mountain bikes, and loaded touring bikes for 40+ years. I’ve even ridden tandems in those same mountains. Not once have I ever overheated a rim even when riding down those same mountains at 50+mph. How well a brake performs has more to do with how they are used than what the actual mechanism is.
The way that you avoid heating the rims...or rotors, for that matter... is to use the brakes quickly and sparingly. Hit them hard, slow down, and get off them. That’s for any kind of brake. You don’t squeeze on the brakes at the top of a hill and keep them on to the bottom. That’s how you overheat brakes.
That said, I still hold the same opinion towards disc that I did 11 years ago. They aren’t “superior” to rim brakes. They are the same as rim brakes. I have ridden in mountains on road bikes, mountain bikes, and loaded touring bikes for 40+ years. I’ve even ridden tandems in those same mountains. Not once have I ever overheated a rim even when riding down those same mountains at 50+mph. How well a brake performs has more to do with how they are used than what the actual mechanism is.
The way that you avoid heating the rims...or rotors, for that matter... is to use the brakes quickly and sparingly. Hit them hard, slow down, and get off them. That’s for any kind of brake. You don’t squeeze on the brakes at the top of a hill and keep them on to the bottom. That’s how you overheat brakes.
#128
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,206
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3460 Post(s)
Liked 1,466 Times
in
1,144 Posts
A friend of mine thinks that Koolstop Salmon brake pads reduce rim wear. I put those on one of my bikes when I built it up, that rim shows very little wear so far.
#129
Senior Member
but dirt riding with downhills and rain is hard to avoid.
So yes, I agree. And I like less finger pressure for strong braking with disc.
#130
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
To get to the same point as I was at with rim brakes, same stopping power and mostly no overheating I've needed to go to a 203mm front disc on my Troll. There are a few specific times when discs have sucked for heavily loaded touring, going down a long steep gravel dusted road where pulse braking wasn't possible because of lack of traction, also with bears so stopping to let them cool down wasn't possible either. Same with going down a super steep hill with lots of pedestrians so need to go constantly slow, disc went blue.
Bit of a PITA when travelling, have to take it off the wheel and tape it to the box. The rear disc on the Rohloff is even fiddlier, have to take the gear shifting box off to get the disc off.
Bit of a PITA when travelling, have to take it off the wheel and tape it to the box. The rear disc on the Rohloff is even fiddlier, have to take the gear shifting box off to get the disc off.
#132
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
But have you ever worn through a rim? Good rims are expensive. Or rather, good light rims are expensive. Ryde rims are cheap enough to be almost free but they're also incredibly heavy (and yet my next touring wheels will have ryde andra's).
A new rim every two or so years? Pass... Even if one uses cheap rims the rebuilding is a hassle. And with expensive rims the costs start adding up.
A new rim every two or so years? Pass... Even if one uses cheap rims the rebuilding is a hassle. And with expensive rims the costs start adding up.
Frankly, I can think of no parameter where disc are better at stopping than a rim brake. Lots of people know diddly about how to actually use their brakes effectively so they blame the tool and not the mechanic.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#133
Senior Member
How are they “superior in every way”? I have rim brakes and disc brakes. I even have a bike with rim brakes and disc. At no point in 40+ years of riding mountains, mountain bikes in mountains, riding loaded touring bike in the much steeper hills of the eastern US mountains, riding loaded mountain bikes during off-road touring, and riding through 40 winters of commuting have I ever thought “this bike isn’t going to stop!”. The bike I have rim brakes and disc brakes on reacts exactly the same to brake input independent of which lever I’m squeezing. The rim brake doesn’t take any more or any less pressure to stop the bike.
Frankly, I can think of no parameter where disc are better at stopping than a rim brake. Lots of people know diddly about how to actually use their brakes effectively so they blame the tool and not the mechanic.[/QUOTE]
Well now... I guess it would 'depend on what you expect, what you want, what you demand' , of a brake system... For the casual rider, the difference is... Negligible.... It's that simple, unless it rains, ( Oh Oh, I am squeezing the lever as hard as I can and the bike is NOT slowing down as good as I was expecting) or it snows, ( and the brakes are frozen), or when overloaded, and (going too fast an a too long of a downhill)... Not to mention the disc brakes "feel",... the disc brakes "consistency" ... the disc brakes "controllability",... with a single finger"... ... At least, it is so, with my disc brake system...
NOW, there maybe, are a lot of crappy disc brake out there... So, what is the answer,...??? Buy, quality hydraulic discs brakes, using dot3 brake fluid, it;;s that simple... IMO, after owning nothing but disc brakes for the last 20+ years... I would NOT buy anything without disc brakes... again JMO as to the differences I have experienced... , and what they are worth... To Me...
Frankly, I can think of no parameter where disc are better at stopping than a rim brake. Lots of people know diddly about how to actually use their brakes effectively so they blame the tool and not the mechanic.[/QUOTE]
Well now... I guess it would 'depend on what you expect, what you want, what you demand' , of a brake system... For the casual rider, the difference is... Negligible.... It's that simple, unless it rains, ( Oh Oh, I am squeezing the lever as hard as I can and the bike is NOT slowing down as good as I was expecting) or it snows, ( and the brakes are frozen), or when overloaded, and (going too fast an a too long of a downhill)... Not to mention the disc brakes "feel",... the disc brakes "consistency" ... the disc brakes "controllability",... with a single finger"... ... At least, it is so, with my disc brake system...
NOW, there maybe, are a lot of crappy disc brake out there... So, what is the answer,...??? Buy, quality hydraulic discs brakes, using dot3 brake fluid, it;;s that simple... IMO, after owning nothing but disc brakes for the last 20+ years... I would NOT buy anything without disc brakes... again JMO as to the differences I have experienced... , and what they are worth... To Me...
Last edited by 350htrr; 02-10-21 at 08:53 PM.
#134
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2005
Posts: 3,872
Mentioned: 14 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 598 Post(s)
Liked 283 Times
in
194 Posts
Stuart, I don't mean to interrupt your ongoing discussion but have you ever used any of the newer compressionless brake housing available on any brakes such as V's, mini V's, canti's or even mech disks ? Does it really offer much if any benefit for the significant additional cost in your opinion ? Thanks
#135
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2015
Location: Down Under
Posts: 1,936
Bikes: A steel framed 26" off road tourer from a manufacturer who thinks they are cool. Giant Anthem. Trek 720 Multiroad pub bike. 10 kids bikes all under 20". Assorted waifs and unfinished projects.
Mentioned: 11 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1188 Post(s)
Liked 1,154 Times
in
640 Posts
Stuart, I don't mean to interrupt your ongoing discussion but have you ever used any of the newer compressionless brake housing available on any brakes such as V's, mini V's, canti's or even mech disks ? Does it really offer much if any benefit for the significant additional cost in your opinion ? Thanks
#136
Senior Member
When I got my Troll x years ago, tore it down to frame and rebuilt with drop bars, I had to get longer housings, and asked my lbs for compressionless stuff, so I assume this is what I have. I am very happy with the braking and finger pressure required, and figure the housing is part of the equation.
I'd have to look at it to know what brand it is.
I'd have to look at it to know what brand it is.
#137
Overdoing projects
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Rotterdam, former republic of the Netherlands
Posts: 2,397
Bikes: Batavus Randonneur GL, Gazelle Orange Excellent, Gazelle Super Licht, Gazelle Grand Tourist, Gazelle Lausanne, Gazelle Tandem, Koga-Miyata SilverAce, Koga-Miyata WorldTraveller
Mentioned: 58 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 784 Post(s)
Liked 1,238 Times
in
686 Posts
+1 on compressionless housing. It also makes a huge difference on most brakes but especially bigger drum brakes.
As for rim brakes vs. discs, I have little experience with discs but I have certainly had rim brakes become ineffective in the rain especially if it has been dry the weeks before.
In dry conditions both can work just as well but rim brakes do require more maintenance. And while I love tinkering, some things should just work.
As for rim brakes vs. discs, I have little experience with discs but I have certainly had rim brakes become ineffective in the rain especially if it has been dry the weeks before.
In dry conditions both can work just as well but rim brakes do require more maintenance. And while I love tinkering, some things should just work.
#138
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,206
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3460 Post(s)
Liked 1,466 Times
in
1,144 Posts
#139
Senior Member
stopping power seems about the same if set up properly.
big advantage to disk brakes is not getting clogged
with mud as easily....
https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/mud...ud-jpg.964896/
big advantage to disk brakes is not getting clogged
with mud as easily....
https://www.mtbr.com/attachments/mud...ud-jpg.964896/
#140
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
Well now... I guess it would 'depend on what you expect, what you want, what you demand' , of a brake system... For the casual rider, the difference is... Negligible.... It's that simple, unless it rains, ( Oh Oh, I am squeezing the lever as hard as I can and the bike is NOT slowing down as good as I was expecting) or it snows, ( and the brakes are frozen), or when overloaded, and (going too fast an a too long of a downhill)... Not to mention the disc brakes "feel",... the disc brakes "consistency" ... the disc brakes "controllability",... with a single finger"... ... At least, it is so, with my disc brake system...
I, too, demand consistency from all my brakes. Brakes should slow a bike a little or a lot depending on how much lever force is input into the calipers. I have yet to run across a quality brake that doesn’t provide consistent performance...wait! I’ll dial that comment back a little. The only brake that was completely inconsistent was hydraulic brakes which I found to be grabby, touchy, and completely lacking in any kind of “consistency”. I have very good brakes on every bike I own...whether those are disc or rim...but not one of them is hydraulic. All my bikes...whether disc or rim...slow and stop when I need them to in exactly the same manner. If they didn’t, I’d change the brakes to something that will do the job. I just don’t consider discs to be the “be all and end all” of bicycle braking technology.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#141
Senior Member
#142
Mad bike riding scientist
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Denver, CO
Posts: 27,362
Bikes: Some silver ones, a red one, a black and orange one, and a few titanium ones
Mentioned: 152 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 6219 Post(s)
Liked 4,218 Times
in
2,365 Posts
Stuart, I don't mean to interrupt your ongoing discussion but have you ever used any of the newer compressionless brake housing available on any brakes such as V's, mini V's, canti's or even mech disks ? Does it really offer much if any benefit for the significant additional cost in your opinion ? Thanks
To be clear, I use a lot of strategy when braking...even in emergency situations. I will use brakes in corners but I go very easy when doing so. Any serious deceleration is going to be done before the corner. The tighter the corner and the looser the surface, the more I brake before entering the corner. I don’t brake too much when going through a rock garden off-road...that’s a good way of ending eating a lot of dirt. Same if I have to hit a pothole that I can’t avoid. I get off the back of the saddle every time I brake, no matter if the road is smooth and flat or steep and rocky. Generally, braking should be done where the road or trail is smooth and straight rather than in the rough, twisty bits.
__________________
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
Stuart Black
Plan Epsilon Around Lake Michigan in the era of Covid
Old School…When It Wasn’t Ancient bikepacking
Gold Fever Three days of dirt in Colorado
Pokin' around the Poconos A cold ride around Lake Erie
Dinosaurs in Colorado A mountain bike guide to the Purgatory Canyon dinosaur trackway
Solo Without Pie. The search for pie in the Midwest.
Picking the Scablands. Washington and Oregon, 2005. Pie and spiders on the Columbia River!
#143
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,206
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3460 Post(s)
Liked 1,466 Times
in
1,144 Posts
And my Lynskey is new enough that they built the frame so that it could use hydraulic or cable and that means that the cable run lacks cable stops on the frame tubing, so full length housing has to be used. On frames where there are cable stops, since frame tubing is essentially compressionless, I think compressionless housing is less important with the short housing runs.
My expedition bike has full length housing everywhere to prevent mud and road grime from messing up the cables. That bike has rim brakes, but my rear brake is a bit spongey due to the length of extra cable housing along the top tube. That bike would probably benefit from compressionless cable.
My road bike has compressionless, but quite frankly I can't tell the difference in how compressionless and regular cable housing compares on the front rim brakes, the housing is so short on those brakes that any housing compression on normal cables on my other bikes with normal cables would be minimal.
#144
Senior Member
I hate zombie threads coming back! Especially when I have changed my mind on the topic.
FWIW, I thought disks were overkill back then and I love them now. Most of my bikes do not have them, but that is because they are old and I am too cheap to replace them. I love the hydraulic disks on my newest MTB. That said the rim brakes on my other bikes all work fine. I hate replacing worn out rims though and have needed to do so on half of the bikes that I was riding when this thread was started. Also I have found the disks require less attention and work a little better.
FWIW, I thought disks were overkill back then and I love them now. Most of my bikes do not have them, but that is because they are old and I am too cheap to replace them. I love the hydraulic disks on my newest MTB. That said the rim brakes on my other bikes all work fine. I hate replacing worn out rims though and have needed to do so on half of the bikes that I was riding when this thread was started. Also I have found the disks require less attention and work a little better.
#145
Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Madison, WI
Posts: 11,206
Bikes: 1961 Ideor, 1966 Perfekt 3 Speed AB Hub, 1994 Bridgestone MB-6, 2006 Airnimal Joey, 2009 Thorn Sherpa, 2013 Thorn Nomad MkII, 2015 VO Pass Hunter, 2017 Lynskey Backroad, 2017 Raleigh Gran Prix, 1980s Bianchi Mixte on a trainer. Others are now gone.
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3460 Post(s)
Liked 1,466 Times
in
1,144 Posts
My folding bike has full length cable housing for all purposes. You would think that the cable runs would be short because a folding bike is small, but the cable runs are actually quite long due to the folding mechanism. I need tandem length cables for the rear derailleur. I have a 3 speed IGH (Sram Dual Drive) on that bike, thus a second gearing cable with full length housing to the rear dropout for that too.
Bike has rim brakes. I have regular (not long cable pull) brake levers, the levers you would typically use on canti or sidepull brakes. But I have mini V brakes on that bike and do not use travel agents. The long cable runs with normal cable housing means that I have a very spongey brake feel, but with the mini V brakes it takes very little lever effort to grip the rims pretty hard. So, I have to be careful when braking on that bike. I initially tried canti brakes on the front but switched to mini V later.
The braking would definitely be improved on that bike with compressionless, BUT I think that the folding mechanism might not play well with a cable housing that is that stiff. So, I will be sticking with the cable I have. The way it is, each time I fold and unfold it, I have to manualy try to straighten out the kinks in the rear cables.
This bike is over a decade old, they switched to disc several years ago.
Bike has rim brakes. I have regular (not long cable pull) brake levers, the levers you would typically use on canti or sidepull brakes. But I have mini V brakes on that bike and do not use travel agents. The long cable runs with normal cable housing means that I have a very spongey brake feel, but with the mini V brakes it takes very little lever effort to grip the rims pretty hard. So, I have to be careful when braking on that bike. I initially tried canti brakes on the front but switched to mini V later.
The braking would definitely be improved on that bike with compressionless, BUT I think that the folding mechanism might not play well with a cable housing that is that stiff. So, I will be sticking with the cable I have. The way it is, each time I fold and unfold it, I have to manualy try to straighten out the kinks in the rear cables.
This bike is over a decade old, they switched to disc several years ago.
#146
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Posts: 2,352
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 680 Post(s)
Liked 948 Times
in
555 Posts
I
I, too, demand consistency from all my brakes. Brakes should slow a bike a little or a lot depending on how much lever force is input into the calipers. I have yet to run across a quality brake that doesn’t provide consistent performance...wait! I’ll dial that comment back a little. The only brake that was completely inconsistent was hydraulic brakes which I found to be grabby, touchy, and completely lacking in any kind of “consistency”. I have very good brakes on every bike I own...whether those are disc or rim...but not one of them is hydraulic. All my bikes...whether disc or rim...slow and stop when I need them to in exactly the same manner. If they didn’t, I’d change the brakes to something that will do the job. I just don’t consider discs to be the “be all and end all” of bicycle braking technology.
I, too, demand consistency from all my brakes. Brakes should slow a bike a little or a lot depending on how much lever force is input into the calipers. I have yet to run across a quality brake that doesn’t provide consistent performance...wait! I’ll dial that comment back a little. The only brake that was completely inconsistent was hydraulic brakes which I found to be grabby, touchy, and completely lacking in any kind of “consistency”. I have very good brakes on every bike I own...whether those are disc or rim...but not one of them is hydraulic. All my bikes...whether disc or rim...slow and stop when I need them to in exactly the same manner. If they didn’t, I’d change the brakes to something that will do the job. I just don’t consider discs to be the “be all and end all” of bicycle braking technology.
#147
Senior Member
I think that compressionless brake housings are most important on longer cable runs with full length housings. And moving the brake unit for discs to near the rear dropouts makes the rear a really long cable run where rim brakes have a shorter cable run . I used compressionless on my Lynskey rear because TRP specifically recommended that on the Spyre brake instructions. (Yes, I know, real men do not read instructions, sorry.)
And my Lynskey is new enough that they built the frame so that it could use hydraulic or cable and that means that the cable run lacks cable stops on the frame tubing, so full length housing has to be used. On frames where there are cable stops, since frame tubing is essentially compressionless, I think compressionless housing is less important with the short housing runs.
My expedition bike has full length housing everywhere to prevent mud and road grime from messing up the cables. That bike has rim brakes, but my rear brake is a bit spongey due to the length of extra cable housing along the top tube. That bike would probably benefit from compressionless cable.
My road bike has compressionless, but quite frankly I can't tell the difference in how compressionless and regular cable housing compares on the front rim brakes, the housing is so short on those brakes that any housing compression on normal cables on my other bikes with normal cables would be minimal.
And my Lynskey is new enough that they built the frame so that it could use hydraulic or cable and that means that the cable run lacks cable stops on the frame tubing, so full length housing has to be used. On frames where there are cable stops, since frame tubing is essentially compressionless, I think compressionless housing is less important with the short housing runs.
My expedition bike has full length housing everywhere to prevent mud and road grime from messing up the cables. That bike has rim brakes, but my rear brake is a bit spongey due to the length of extra cable housing along the top tube. That bike would probably benefit from compressionless cable.
My road bike has compressionless, but quite frankly I can't tell the difference in how compressionless and regular cable housing compares on the front rim brakes, the housing is so short on those brakes that any housing compression on normal cables on my other bikes with normal cables would be minimal.
#148
Senior Member
I hate zombie threads coming back! Especially when I have changed my mind on the topic.
FWIW, I thought disks were overkill back then and I love them now. Most of my bikes do not have them, but that is because they are old and I am too cheap to replace them. I love the hydraulic disks on my newest MTB. That said the rim brakes on my other bikes all work fine. I hate replacing worn out rims though and have needed to do so on half of the bikes that I was riding when this thread was started. Also I have found the disks require less attention and work a little better.
FWIW, I thought disks were overkill back then and I love them now. Most of my bikes do not have them, but that is because they are old and I am too cheap to replace them. I love the hydraulic disks on my newest MTB. That said the rim brakes on my other bikes all work fine. I hate replacing worn out rims though and have needed to do so on half of the bikes that I was riding when this thread was started. Also I have found the disks require less attention and work a little better.
I think both your and my take on discs now is a pretty average take on the whole thing, even from riders who are ok with how rim brakes work, but acknowledge the advantages of discs. I'm just happier to be able to dump speed effectively with less finger pressure, so descents are safer and more relaxing for me.
#149
Senior Member
ha, even Froomie aint happy
https://cyclingmagazine.ca/uncategor...le-moment-yet/
I do have to say that I like my old BB7s in that I can adjust each pad and make sure there's enough clearance to never have rub (when the caliper is aligned and I use my qr well and line things up well--not hard to do, just saying)
https://cyclingmagazine.ca/uncategor...le-moment-yet/
I do have to say that I like my old BB7s in that I can adjust each pad and make sure there's enough clearance to never have rub (when the caliper is aligned and I use my qr well and line things up well--not hard to do, just saying)
#150
Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2019
Location: South Shore of Long Island
Posts: 2,799
Bikes: 2010 Carrera Volans, 2015 C-Dale Trail 2sl, 2017 Raleigh Rush Hour, 2017 Blue Proseccio, 1992 Giant Perigee, 80s Gitane Rallye Tandem
Mentioned: 12 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1088 Post(s)
Liked 1,024 Times
in
723 Posts
I thought no disc for me on my touring bike but honestly their consistency on my mtb and gravel bike has changed that. My kids stopped fine with rim brakes on their first mtb, were happier with the cable discs on their current bikes but loved the upgrade to a basic shimano hydraulic system. They went from 3 finger squeezes with rim, 2 finger with cable and just use a finger with hydraulic and never struggle to scrub speed. Rim brakes do work fine but hydraulic brakes just work better.