Clunker 100 Challenge COVID 2.0 edition #7
#276
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Posts: 5,342
Bikes: Still have a few left!
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 467 Post(s)
Liked 532 Times
in
267 Posts
@rustystrings61, Seatpost measures 25.4, which co-incidentally is also the weight in pounds finished weight. Thought the flyer claim of 25 pounds weight was probably ambitious but I guess not. The non-original gel saddle, derailleurs, tires/tubes probably account for the extra 4/10th pound. Don
#277
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Dewdney, BC
Posts: 18
Bikes: Riding the same unlabelled sketchy AF Craigslist bike bought 20 years ago for $75.00, restoring a Kuwahara Butte 1987 (87067956), Kuwahara Shasta, a hand built Brodie Custom early 90’s, and a bunch of miscellaneous Frankenstein kid bikes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
I have a clunker to post but must first work up to my required 10 posts before I can upload photos and make my own posts... (2of10)
#278
Senior Member
#279
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Dewdney, BC
Posts: 18
Bikes: Riding the same unlabelled sketchy AF Craigslist bike bought 20 years ago for $75.00, restoring a Kuwahara Butte 1987 (87067956), Kuwahara Shasta, a hand built Brodie Custom early 90’s, and a bunch of miscellaneous Frankenstein kid bikes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Thanks! Our farmhouse driveway is beginning to look like a bike shop full of plain old hobby work. I’m still hunting for a decent place online in Canada to buy brake and shifter cables, housing and other gak besides Amazon. A friend gave us 3 broken bikes last week in hopes that my boys are really s inspired to build 3 working bikes out of them. By far, the 2 vintage Kuwahara mtb’s are my fave. Itching to find one that fits me... the XL Shasta and XL Butte are my eldests.
#280
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Dewdney, BC
Posts: 18
Bikes: Riding the same unlabelled sketchy AF Craigslist bike bought 20 years ago for $75.00, restoring a Kuwahara Butte 1987 (87067956), Kuwahara Shasta, a hand built Brodie Custom early 90’s, and a bunch of miscellaneous Frankenstein kid bikes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
Looking at my clunker here after I cleaned up the dropout adjuster holes on my Colnago, I couldn't help but think that it was missing something. I had a bike with a headbadge and no decals. No name.
Taking the cue, I decided that I should name it according to the use I am putting it to - the great clunker challenge. No doubt this bike and countless others that have graced this contest either came from the dump or were destined for it. So, I settled on something fitting, yet nice enough that it rolls off the tongue: Giro Discarica (Dump Tour). Paint pen was on hand, so I'm calling freebie unless there are any objections.
Taking the cue, I decided that I should name it according to the use I am putting it to - the great clunker challenge. No doubt this bike and countless others that have graced this contest either came from the dump or were destined for it. So, I settled on something fitting, yet nice enough that it rolls off the tongue: Giro Discarica (Dump Tour). Paint pen was on hand, so I'm calling freebie unless there are any objections.
#282
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 53
Bikes: 4 Raleigh's (1 International, 3 Super Course), 2 Miyata (610, Alumicross), one each Bianchi Eros, Fuji Cross Pro, Lotus Excelle, Paramount Series 7 Carbon,Specialized Sirrus Comp, Trek something mountain bike, Univega Super Strada, Wheeler Tremosinep
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times
in
21 Posts
Me too! I have spent amazingly few $$ but many hours getting my ride ready. It's just about ready for a test drive. I hope yours goes well.
#283
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,829
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2443 Post(s)
Liked 3,137 Times
in
1,976 Posts
If you're even considering entering this exercise ire misplaced priorities but lack a suitable frame, I may be able to enable ... I mean, help. Sitting in my workshop as I speak are three framesets with varying amounts of hardware associated with them. One is a 58x58 cm Bottechia that takes a 26.4 mm seatpost, frame, fork, headset, cottered BB, Carnielli bars and stem with Shimano aero brake levers shoehorned into Dia Compe hoods. There is also a Gitane Grand Sport 54x54, frame, fork, headset. Finally, in the event the person I have already offered it to doesn't claim it, I have a 25-in Schwinn World Sport, one of the ones with at least some chro-moly in the main tubes and an integral derailleur mount, which is frame, fork, headset, seatpost, binder bolt, bars, stem, brake levers, stem shifters and Shimano light action derailleurs. All I would want is shipping on these from 29649 to your zip code.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#285
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Posts: 5,342
Bikes: Still have a few left!
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 467 Post(s)
Liked 532 Times
in
267 Posts
Old, very old but not as old as the Follis. Recently married, Wife sold her home in Aloha. Furniture and some other stuff went to new home in Florida. Whatever survived the giant dumpster toss, ended up in my garage and basement shop where lots more is now being tossed or donated by me. Don
#286
Junior Member
Join Date: May 2021
Location: Dewdney, BC
Posts: 18
Bikes: Riding the same unlabelled sketchy AF Craigslist bike bought 20 years ago for $75.00, restoring a Kuwahara Butte 1987 (87067956), Kuwahara Shasta, a hand built Brodie Custom early 90’s, and a bunch of miscellaneous Frankenstein kid bikes
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 5 Post(s)
Liked 3 Times
in
3 Posts
#287
If its free, it's for me
This is exactly my kind of thread. I'm a massive cheapskate lmao
Late 70s- Early 80s Chimo Concourse--
Found on side of road less than a month ago. Replaced horrific mountain bike handle bars with a set of curved road bike bars off an old women's Schwinn and took the dual position brake levers along with them. Also replaced the dumpy narrow Mongoose saddle with an old Wrights springer that I took off an ancient British bike sporting a Sturmy geared hub axle, forgot the make of bike, might still go buy it for a resale, it deserves a restoration....
Bike- Free
Handle bars, brake levers, Wrights saddle- $6 bucks scrap price
Chimo still needs tubes, tires and the rear wheel needs to be trued before I can test her out.
Other bike I'm currently riding is a Roadmaster Hurricane Ridge that I again, found on the side of the road less than a week ago. Bike had a totally seized chain, derailleur, rear hub, very rough crankset, seized brakes etc etc. Almost completely toast, definitely sat in the guys yard for probably half a decade considering the condition of the drivetrain... Removed the brakes, the wheels, derailleur upper and main, all cables, handle bars. Tore it almost completely down minus the crankset and front fork assembly. Sprayed a good amount of PB Blaster into the crankset and spent a few minutes spinning it till it was ridable at least lol.
Bike- Free
Parts bike (crappy walmart Next full suspension)- $11 bucks scrap price
Scrapped parts frame and old rusty wheels- $3 greenbacks returned
Took the riser bars, the brakes, the shifters, wheels and tires, chain and derailleurs off the crappy Next bike and began to assemble some of the bits on the Roadmaster. Installed the Shimano Tourer main derailleur and the upper as well, swapped the best wheels and tires I had on, threw on the riser bars, removed all the old shoddy cables and installed just the front brakes onto the bike for now until I get some lime green cable sheath to replace the stock bits that the bike came with. Rides great considering it has terrible front brakes and is stuck in one gear for right now. Also need to figure out how to free up the seat post so I can lower the saddle a bit...
Chimo total investment- $6.00
Roadmaster total- $8.00
Total miles ridden on the Roadmaster is probably just shy of 15, I rode it to the gas station twice when initially testing it while it had no brakes, and today I took it for a nice ride to the waterfront, about 6 miles from my place one way. The Hurricane is a nice urban terrain bike for sure, but I'm dying to ride the Chimo. The Chimo is very dainty, and looks like it probably hauls ass with enough effort from the rider.
Pics will come
Late 70s- Early 80s Chimo Concourse--
Found on side of road less than a month ago. Replaced horrific mountain bike handle bars with a set of curved road bike bars off an old women's Schwinn and took the dual position brake levers along with them. Also replaced the dumpy narrow Mongoose saddle with an old Wrights springer that I took off an ancient British bike sporting a Sturmy geared hub axle, forgot the make of bike, might still go buy it for a resale, it deserves a restoration....
Bike- Free
Handle bars, brake levers, Wrights saddle- $6 bucks scrap price
Chimo still needs tubes, tires and the rear wheel needs to be trued before I can test her out.
Other bike I'm currently riding is a Roadmaster Hurricane Ridge that I again, found on the side of the road less than a week ago. Bike had a totally seized chain, derailleur, rear hub, very rough crankset, seized brakes etc etc. Almost completely toast, definitely sat in the guys yard for probably half a decade considering the condition of the drivetrain... Removed the brakes, the wheels, derailleur upper and main, all cables, handle bars. Tore it almost completely down minus the crankset and front fork assembly. Sprayed a good amount of PB Blaster into the crankset and spent a few minutes spinning it till it was ridable at least lol.
Bike- Free
Parts bike (crappy walmart Next full suspension)- $11 bucks scrap price
Scrapped parts frame and old rusty wheels- $3 greenbacks returned
Took the riser bars, the brakes, the shifters, wheels and tires, chain and derailleurs off the crappy Next bike and began to assemble some of the bits on the Roadmaster. Installed the Shimano Tourer main derailleur and the upper as well, swapped the best wheels and tires I had on, threw on the riser bars, removed all the old shoddy cables and installed just the front brakes onto the bike for now until I get some lime green cable sheath to replace the stock bits that the bike came with. Rides great considering it has terrible front brakes and is stuck in one gear for right now. Also need to figure out how to free up the seat post so I can lower the saddle a bit...
Chimo total investment- $6.00
Roadmaster total- $8.00
Total miles ridden on the Roadmaster is probably just shy of 15, I rode it to the gas station twice when initially testing it while it had no brakes, and today I took it for a nice ride to the waterfront, about 6 miles from my place one way. The Hurricane is a nice urban terrain bike for sure, but I'm dying to ride the Chimo. The Chimo is very dainty, and looks like it probably hauls ass with enough effort from the rider.
Pics will come
#288
If its free, it's for me
...Some people look for bargains like that and try to build the best bike they possibly can for $100. That can be fun...
Others look for the absolute crappiest bike they can find and try to endure 100km riding it. That can be fun too, though I think there's a higher failure rate among this group. Want more fun? Put in two entries.
Others look for the absolute crappiest bike they can find and try to endure 100km riding it. That can be fun too, though I think there's a higher failure rate among this group. Want more fun? Put in two entries.
The Roadmaster is ready for 100 miles as is, no gears and all...
#289
The dropped
Join Date: Oct 2018
Location: Columbus, OH
Posts: 2,144
Bikes: Pake C'Mute Touring/Commuter Build, 1989 Kona Cinder Cone, 1995 Trek 5200, 1973 Raleigh Super Course FG, 1960/61 Montgomery Ward Hawthorne "thrift" 3 speed, by Hercules (sold) : 1966 Schwinn Deluxe Racer (sold)
Mentioned: 10 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1739 Post(s)
Liked 1,014 Times
in
696 Posts
I like this idea. The Chimo is definitely going to get some love with new tubes and tires and bar tape, but the Roadmaster is a total beater that I'm using nothing but scrap yard and road side parts to build, other than the new lime green cable sheath which is a must have for this purple frame lol
The Roadmaster is ready for 100 miles as is, no gears and all...
The Roadmaster is ready for 100 miles as is, no gears and all...
Absent that, I think you mean a single speed, since you'd have one gear combination.
Likes For Unca_Sam:
#290
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,869 Times
in
1,439 Posts
After stringing together as much patience as I could manage, I'm now ready to declare the finish work on the Takara frame done (minus a few spots that may need touch up). I was really pleased with what I was able to accomplish with Rust-Oleum, wet sanding, and Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. I didn't bring the whole frame up to a uniform level of perfection, but a few parts of the main tubes look really good. I had a college calculus professor who liked to say that when you ask a mathematician to prove something, they'll go just far enough to convince themselves that it can be done, then they'll declare "Q.E.D." and leave the rest unfinished. That's kind of where I'm at with this paint job. I went far enough to convince myself that I could, given enough time and work, achieve really spectacular results with the techniques I was using and decided the rest was good enough.
I splurged on "custom" decals from doityourselflettering.com because I don't like bare frames. You may recognize the font as Arial Black Italic. Does anyone really remember what the Takara decals looked like anyway? This is kind of close.
I also felt like the seat tube needed something. The original seat tube decal was far too ornate to attempt to reproduce, so I drew some inspiration from this Takara that I found online.
A couple of years ago I ordered some chrome tape for similar stripes on my Raleigh Competition. I needed about 7 inches, but I had to order something like 50 yards, so I've basically got a lifetime supply of the stuff. I used the same tape for the transitions from paint to the chrome socks. Here's a better shot of the seat tube treatment. The tape nicely accentuates just how smooth the underlying paint isn't.
I still feel like it needs something between the stripes. I may reach out to the Black Iron Grill and see if they'd be willing to give me a suitably sized decal with their logo on it.
Finally, I left the head badge in more-or-less "as found" condition as a slight tribute to patina and originality. I also left the chrome on the fork crown exposed, even though it was originally painted, as a way of thumbing my nose at patina and originality.
I may still use this frame as a guinea pig for trying out some recently acquired Sharpie paint pens for lug lining.
I splurged on "custom" decals from doityourselflettering.com because I don't like bare frames. You may recognize the font as Arial Black Italic. Does anyone really remember what the Takara decals looked like anyway? This is kind of close.
I also felt like the seat tube needed something. The original seat tube decal was far too ornate to attempt to reproduce, so I drew some inspiration from this Takara that I found online.
A couple of years ago I ordered some chrome tape for similar stripes on my Raleigh Competition. I needed about 7 inches, but I had to order something like 50 yards, so I've basically got a lifetime supply of the stuff. I used the same tape for the transitions from paint to the chrome socks. Here's a better shot of the seat tube treatment. The tape nicely accentuates just how smooth the underlying paint isn't.
I still feel like it needs something between the stripes. I may reach out to the Black Iron Grill and see if they'd be willing to give me a suitably sized decal with their logo on it.
Finally, I left the head badge in more-or-less "as found" condition as a slight tribute to patina and originality. I also left the chrome on the fork crown exposed, even though it was originally painted, as a way of thumbing my nose at patina and originality.
I may still use this frame as a guinea pig for trying out some recently acquired Sharpie paint pens for lug lining.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
Likes For Andy_K:
#291
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,829
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2443 Post(s)
Liked 3,137 Times
in
1,976 Posts
that looks super cool! Like the chrome tape! Great job!
After stringing together as much patience as I could manage, I'm now ready to declare the finish work on the Takara frame done (minus a few spots that may need touch up). I was really pleased with what I was able to accomplish with Rust-Oleum, wet sanding, and Meguiar's Ultimate Compound. I didn't bring the whole frame up to a uniform level of perfection, but a few parts of the main tubes look really good. I had a college calculus professor who liked to say that when you ask a mathematician to prove something, they'll go just far enough to convince themselves that it can be done, then they'll declare "Q.E.D." and leave the rest unfinished. That's kind of where I'm at with this paint job. I went far enough to convince myself that I could, given enough time and work, achieve really spectacular results with the techniques I was using and decided the rest was good enough.
I splurged on "custom" decals from doityourselflettering.com because I don't like bare frames. You may recognize the font as Arial Black Italic. Does anyone really remember what the Takara decals looked like anyway? This is kind of close.
I also felt like the seat tube needed something. The original seat tube decal was far too ornate to attempt to reproduce, so I drew some inspiration from this Takara that I found online.
A couple of years ago I ordered some chrome tape for similar stripes on my Raleigh Competition. I needed about 7 inches, but I had to order something like 50 yards, so I've basically got a lifetime supply of the stuff. I used the same tape for the transitions from paint to the chrome socks. Here's a better shot of the seat tube treatment. The tape nicely accentuates just how smooth the underlying paint isn't.
I still feel like it needs something between the stripes. I may reach out to the Black Iron Grill and see if they'd be willing to give me a suitably sized decal with their logo on it.
Finally, I left the head badge in more-or-less "as found" condition as a slight tribute to patina and originality. I also left the chrome on the fork crown exposed, even though it was originally painted, as a way of thumbing my nose at patina and originality.
I may still use this frame as a guinea pig for trying out some recently acquired Sharpie paint pens for lug lining.
I splurged on "custom" decals from doityourselflettering.com because I don't like bare frames. You may recognize the font as Arial Black Italic. Does anyone really remember what the Takara decals looked like anyway? This is kind of close.
I also felt like the seat tube needed something. The original seat tube decal was far too ornate to attempt to reproduce, so I drew some inspiration from this Takara that I found online.
A couple of years ago I ordered some chrome tape for similar stripes on my Raleigh Competition. I needed about 7 inches, but I had to order something like 50 yards, so I've basically got a lifetime supply of the stuff. I used the same tape for the transitions from paint to the chrome socks. Here's a better shot of the seat tube treatment. The tape nicely accentuates just how smooth the underlying paint isn't.
I still feel like it needs something between the stripes. I may reach out to the Black Iron Grill and see if they'd be willing to give me a suitably sized decal with their logo on it.
Finally, I left the head badge in more-or-less "as found" condition as a slight tribute to patina and originality. I also left the chrome on the fork crown exposed, even though it was originally painted, as a way of thumbing my nose at patina and originality.
I may still use this frame as a guinea pig for trying out some recently acquired Sharpie paint pens for lug lining.
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#292
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,869 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Likes For Andy_K:
#293
small ring
Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: PNW
Posts: 1,025
Mentioned: 24 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 438 Post(s)
Liked 925 Times
in
370 Posts
How did you get the tape straight? I think you're selling yourself short with how good this looks (at least through photos).
__________________
59 Allegro Special -- 72 Bob Jackson -- 74 Motobecane Grand Jubile -- 74 Sekine SHS 271 -- 80 Nishiki International
85 Shogun 800 -- 86 Tommasini Super Prestige -- 92 Specialized Rockhopper -- 17 Colnago Arabesque
59 Allegro Special -- 72 Bob Jackson -- 74 Motobecane Grand Jubile -- 74 Sekine SHS 271 -- 80 Nishiki International
85 Shogun 800 -- 86 Tommasini Super Prestige -- 92 Specialized Rockhopper -- 17 Colnago Arabesque
#294
Senior Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Soviet of Oregon or Pensacola FL
Posts: 5,342
Bikes: Still have a few left!
Mentioned: 48 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 467 Post(s)
Liked 532 Times
in
267 Posts
Wow Andy, it looks great. All Clunkerdom salutes you. I got my Follis operational and took her out for a little spin today. Right off, I had a big problem. Low bars plus a too high saddle, with my neck problem meant I scarcely saw where I was going. Slowly and carefully rode back to my garage, dropped saddle a bit and raised my stem to its minimum insertion mark. Did a quick "Tour de Driveway" to confirm I could see the horizon now, then called it a day. Time for an adult beverage. Don
Likes For ollo_ollo:
#295
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Greenwood SC USA
Posts: 2,252
Bikes: 2002 Mercian Vincitore, 1982 Mercian Colorado, 1976 Puch Royal X, 1973 Raleigh Competition, 1971 Gitane Tour de France and others
Mentioned: 55 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 823 Post(s)
Liked 1,395 Times
in
694 Posts
Free!
Well, at least the seat post is free of the frame. I wound up getting a 4 oz can of Corrosion Block-
- and pumping a decent amount into the flutes at the juncture of post and tube. That soaked for more than an hour with some additional touch ups. It sat on top of a piece of cardboard in my office until it was time for me to leave work. I swung by the LBS, Bikes and Boards, where Coleman the owner clamped it up in the big bench vise. The post rotated a minuscule amount, so I took advantage of its upside down status and pumped more Corrosion Block in through a bottle boss and let it sit while I drove off to pick up my son.
We returned to find the bike unchanged. Coleman and one of his assistants spent close to 30 minutes working to free the post. They found a rhythm of wrenching it straight around clockwise, then pushing up while turning it counter-clockwise. It stayed in place for a while until enough of the aluminum oxide bond was broken and the suddenly the frame was lifting off the post.
I know, I shoulda gotten pix of Coleman pushing it around. Watching him work I KNEW I would have immobilized myself for a week with a wrecked shoulder.
It was $20 well-spent, so now I’m at $80.
UPDATE -
I took 40 minutes to polish the seatpost with 200 and 400 grit paper and to run my brake cylinder hone down the inside of the seat tube. Wiped it all clean, sprayed lots of Corrosion Block into the seat tube and slathered both that AND the seatpost with grease. The bike may have problems but I am serious about the no stuck seatposts thing! For good measure I re-installed the BB. We’ll see if I get anything done on it tomorrow!
- and pumping a decent amount into the flutes at the juncture of post and tube. That soaked for more than an hour with some additional touch ups. It sat on top of a piece of cardboard in my office until it was time for me to leave work. I swung by the LBS, Bikes and Boards, where Coleman the owner clamped it up in the big bench vise. The post rotated a minuscule amount, so I took advantage of its upside down status and pumped more Corrosion Block in through a bottle boss and let it sit while I drove off to pick up my son.
We returned to find the bike unchanged. Coleman and one of his assistants spent close to 30 minutes working to free the post. They found a rhythm of wrenching it straight around clockwise, then pushing up while turning it counter-clockwise. It stayed in place for a while until enough of the aluminum oxide bond was broken and the suddenly the frame was lifting off the post.
I know, I shoulda gotten pix of Coleman pushing it around. Watching him work I KNEW I would have immobilized myself for a week with a wrecked shoulder.
It was $20 well-spent, so now I’m at $80.
UPDATE -
I took 40 minutes to polish the seatpost with 200 and 400 grit paper and to run my brake cylinder hone down the inside of the seat tube. Wiped it all clean, sprayed lots of Corrosion Block into the seat tube and slathered both that AND the seatpost with grease. The bike may have problems but I am serious about the no stuck seatposts thing! For good measure I re-installed the BB. We’ll see if I get anything done on it tomorrow!
Last edited by rustystrings61; 05-26-21 at 06:01 PM.
Likes For rustystrings61:
#296
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,869 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Regarding the tape, I cut strips to just over the circumference of the tube, peeled off the backing, held it by the ends, and very carefully attempted to put it on perpendicular to the tube, starting with a single spot in the middle and then pulling it tight (like you would with bar tape) as I wrapped it around, hoping the ends would meet up at the same place. The "glue" on the tape is forgiving enough that you can pull it off and try again once or maybe even twice. The hardest part was cutting the tape to the width I wanted. The roll I've got is an inch wide, but I wanted half inch strips. I thought I'd be able to use my photo cutter to keep it straight and cut along the center, but the tape is narrower than the clear plastic guide on the cutter, and the curl in the tape from having been rolled made it really difficult to keep in place. I ended up just using scissors and eyeballing it, then trimming pieces until I had four that were the same width.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
Last edited by Andy_K; 05-26-21 at 07:21 PM.
#297
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Beaverton, OR
Posts: 14,744
Bikes: Yes
Mentioned: 525 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3230 Post(s)
Liked 3,869 Times
in
1,439 Posts
Outstanding! If I had to bet, I would have said that wasn't coming out. It's always impressive to see what can be accomplished with enough determination.
__________________
My Bikes
My Bikes
#298
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,829
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2443 Post(s)
Liked 3,137 Times
in
1,976 Posts
New old candidate...
Might have a more appropriate clunker...don’t know why I do this to myself...
__________________
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
1987 Crest Cannondale, 1987 Basso Gap, 1992 Rossin Performance EL, 1990ish Van Tuyl, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 2003 Pinarello Surprise, 1990ish MBK Atlantique, 1987 Peugeot Competition, 1987 Nishiki Tri-A, 1981 Faggin, 1996 Cannondale M500, 1984 Mercian, 1982 AD SuperLeicht, 1985 Massi (model unknown), 1988 Daccordi Griffe , 1989 Fauxsin MTB, 1981 Ciocc Mockba, 1992 Bianchi Giro, 1977 Colnago Super
#299
Newbie
Join Date: Mar 2020
Location: New Hampshire
Posts: 53
Bikes: 4 Raleigh's (1 International, 3 Super Course), 2 Miyata (610, Alumicross), one each Bianchi Eros, Fuji Cross Pro, Lotus Excelle, Paramount Series 7 Carbon,Specialized Sirrus Comp, Trek something mountain bike, Univega Super Strada, Wheeler Tremosinep
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 19 Post(s)
Liked 45 Times
in
21 Posts
(no pics yet, making my way up to 10 required posts) Took the Green Super Course on its maiden ride Tuesday (May 25), 6.6 Kilometers. Went well except for a couple of details. I forgot how to set up handlebars, so they were pointed too downward.
And the bike was surprisingly twitchy compared with my other favorite bike, the coffee colored SC (another COVID bike, identical to my first road bike). I suspected that the mismatched front (700c) and rear (27 x 1-1/4) wheels affected the handling. So I spent hours trying to remember high school geometry and trigonometry and trying to calculate the effect on head tube angle with mismatched wheels. Turned out, I later noticed the front wheel QR skewer was open, I guess that's why newer bikes have those front fork wheel catchers! I'll ride it again I think today, same route, and see if riding on a secure front wheel makes a difference.
Regardless, if I happen to see either a 27" front or 700c rear wheel at the town dump, I'll grab it and swap it out.
And the bike was surprisingly twitchy compared with my other favorite bike, the coffee colored SC (another COVID bike, identical to my first road bike). I suspected that the mismatched front (700c) and rear (27 x 1-1/4) wheels affected the handling. So I spent hours trying to remember high school geometry and trigonometry and trying to calculate the effect on head tube angle with mismatched wheels. Turned out, I later noticed the front wheel QR skewer was open, I guess that's why newer bikes have those front fork wheel catchers! I'll ride it again I think today, same route, and see if riding on a secure front wheel makes a difference.
Regardless, if I happen to see either a 27" front or 700c rear wheel at the town dump, I'll grab it and swap it out.
#300
Edumacator
Join Date: Jan 2018
Location: Goose Creek, SC
Posts: 6,829
Bikes: '87 Crestdale, '87 Basso Gap, '92 Rossin Performance EL-OS, 1990 VanTuyl, 1980s Losa, 1985 Trek 670, 1982 AD SLE, 1987 PX10, etc...
Mentioned: 59 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2443 Post(s)
Liked 3,137 Times
in
1,976 Posts
Facebook marketplace. $50. The tires are like new, but cheap and look like they are cracking. Frame is in great shape, though evaporust is needed for several parts. Pictures to come.
Has the turkey levers, so I do t think it was too high up the ladder.
Has the turkey levers, so I do t think it was too high up the ladder.
jdawg, i like that. was that on CL? i remeber seeing a Ross Centaur recently, and i was very tempted, but figured it was a bit too far of a drive for me, and i have other Ross bikes to mess with.
1987 catalog shows that to be their top of the line road bike for that year (if i am reading it correctly). looks nice and clean, and pretty stock except for that awful stem. how about some more pics of it.
1987 catalog shows that to be their top of the line road bike for that year (if i am reading it correctly). looks nice and clean, and pretty stock except for that awful stem. how about some more pics of it.
Likes For jdawginsc: