Kontact 

I like/liked KMC chains until mine popped out a rivet, and then two more people came into the shop with the same problem. They took FOREVER warrantying the first one because some executive took it to a meeting.

Anyway, usually buy SRAM 830s - the Sedisport of the future.

Drillium Dude 

This 6-speed Aris has the 'Y' configuration on the teeth as you describe, so I'm assuming that means 'nope' to flip-flopping them. Oh well.

Honestly, I didn't feel any real performance enhancement or loss (in the cogs that had no wear, that is) when compared to my standard Regina/Sedisport interface, so going further with grinding down splines and whatnot would be overkill for no return. I'm just not the kind of guy who's gonna make that kind of effort for no net performance gain. But I bet these Aris units work great until the wear is too much for reliable riding. Because the cogs are a bit thinner, I had to adjust my sensitivity when it came to the 'throw' of the gear lever; I was going with my regular feel, and was over-shifting just a tad each time while going through the cogs that didn't have wear. Yes, I have that much sensitivity when it comes to shifting, and I suspect it's because I've been rowing through the gears with Regina FWs and Sedis chains for decades now. What do they call it? Muscle memory; or at least that's my theory.

Funny thing is, I can't recall how they performed back in the late 90s when it comes to wear characteristics. But I do recall my biggest beef was that they tended to be tight and displayed excessive drag; walking the bike was at times like walking a fixed gear! @pastorbobnlnh explained: the factory over-greased them to the point where the internals became gummed up over time, causing drag significant enough to allow the cranks to turn while freewheeling.

Here's a pic he shared with me after disassembling a NOS Sachs Aris:



I've got Regina spares for the rest of my natural born life. Think I'm good

DD

RCMoeur 

About 15 years ago, Nashbar had a blowout sale on KMC Z50 7.1 mm 7-8 speed chains for about $6 each, so I bought a dozen of them. I think I might still have one left. Been very happy with them, but now I'm gradually moving to the KMC RB series of "rustbuster" chains that offer enhanced corrosion resistance.

I have a 30+ year old 212-link Sedisport chain on the Rans recumbent. Still no measurable wear after 8000+ miles - it'll probably outlive me.

RCMoeur 

I have a Suntour Alpha freewheel (later than Winner, but seemingly the same steel) with 10,000.0 documented miles on it. And it still shifts just fine and doesn't skip at all. I could say it's because I replace chains at 1/16" wear / 12" so they don't damage the other drivetrain components, but (I better stop here or all the combatants in the other thread might descend on this one...)

Drillium Dude 

I'm not wielding no torch and pitchfork, Richard - after all, we're in the same camp.

I retire chains (which of course are relatively inexpensive when compared to other drivetrain components) regularly when they stretch, and I've yet to wear out a freewheel (FD: I've broken five). Additionally, I avoid riding in inclement weather (though I understand those that do; tourists can't take days off at a time, waiting out the weather; and commuters are gonna commute), as the muck causes faster wear on not only the drivetrain, but also rim sidewalls. Plus: uck!

DD

El Chaba

That is a really important point….That is by far the greatest factor in cog wear has much less to do with the hardness of the cogs but much more to do with the condition of the chain. I am also a member of the school of replacing the chain early in the wear/stretch cycle.

zedda

I've read some of what was written about waxing chains, including the described procedure. Definitely not for me, I'm too lazy to go through such lengthy but also relatively regular and frequent procedures.

So, my option remains in the opposite direction: cheap chains with reasonable durability, so the frequency of their replacement doesn't give a headache.

From what I can see, what pays off for the 8-speed would be cheap chains with hardened (and if possible chrome plated) pins because this is what should significantly add to durability. Fully chrome plated chain is ok but not necessary.

Bottom end products like Sram 830 or KMC Z8 series don't have hardened pins, so they are expected to last less. But Sram 850, 870 or KMC X8 should be ok options. And in comparison, Sram 850 and 870 look better in my eyes. Connex Wippermann offer looks interesting as well.

Connex Wippermann vs Sram? The difference in a German shop is some 40% more for Connex 800 vs Sram 850, 50% more for Connex 804 vs Sram 870. Does it pay off in terms of durability (or general quality)?

My current chain is cheap chrome plated 8-speed Yaban (YBN). LBS said good things about it but this chain is definitely not smooth.

tiger1964 

Bummer - I was about to order a Connex chain, too (I see they are made by Wipperman, my brother always used their 'block' track chains), as on one bike I wanted a shiny nickel-plated chain.

zedda

In my view those issues may have something with the right quality of grease, considering its purpose and working conditions. It how the grease handles the whole temperature range and humidity over time and does it degrade over time. For the example, I was opening lately some Campy freehubs which were made 30 years ago, and it's not likely those hubs were ever opened. Inside I find similar looking/smelling grease and it's in the perfect condition, no visible degradation and not a slightliest trace of gumming. That's what I expect from quality grease which fits the purpose.

Now, speaking of Regina freewheels, Drillium Dude and El Chaba , do you recall your experience with Regina America's?

My experience back then is that I bought an America S 90 7-speed freewheel, but it didn't last me long. Although initially looking nice and sounding nicely quiet, within a few months it developed a significant play and I had to replace it. By the recommendation from the LBS, I replaced it with CX-S which body proved to be of much better quality - I still have it. But now I wonder, was I just out of luck with the piece I got, or America freewheels generally had quality issues?

El Chaba

I think that your problem may have been a one-off. I have a number of Regina America freewheels still in service today. As I mentioned in an earlier post, our team in that era was sponsored by Regina and we experienced no failures of any kind. They were solid products. The America series freewheels were actually CX or CXS freewheels “rebranded” and with the addition of a plastic ring at the front of the freewheel to act as a seal. The other difference was that the America freewheels came in a storage tin. If the freewheel ever got gritty, you could fill the tin with solvent and spin the freewheel until the dirt rinsed out….hopefully…and then allow to dry and re-lube. Of course this is no substitute for the Pastor Bob level of treatment.

Drillium Dude 

The only Regina America I've had experience with is the alloy version (bronze/brownish anodized finish on the cogs). I broke one cog at the well between a pair of teeth while ascending a steep hill; since this unfortunate event occurred in the 'Days Before Ebay' - and because I hadn't yet become acquainted with @pastorbobnlnh - that unit went into the trash.

Similarly, I broke not one, but two Everest Nova alloy freewheels - and both failed at the threaded portion of the 12 and 13t cog combination (threaded together). This occurred on both occasions while racing - in the final sprint for the line. My family jewels met with the top tube as a result of the second failure. Oof!

Is it any wonder I swore off alloy freewheels after being 'third time unlucky'?

DD

Andrew_G

I know we're discussing 8 speed chains here, but FYI:

VeloNews' tech guru Lennard Zinn overlooked a Wipperman wear test of 11-speed chains. Here's the article:
https://www.velonews.com/gear/we-wen...what-we-found/

Otherwise, I've been quite happy with Wipperman 804 (gray & silver) or 808 (all silver, i.e., all nickle plated) chains. On my Della Santa (vintage spec) I use the 804 with a gray 7 speed Sachs freewheel, and the 808 with gold colored 7 or 8 speed Sachs freewheel(s).

On my newer bike, I use the 9-speed Wipperman 908, also all nickle plated. I found the 908 chain ran more quietly than the Campagnolo chain, used on Campy 9 speed cassettes.

I also like the Connex link; the hand assemble-disassemble saves me buying a tool, and facilitates better cleaning.

Andrew G.

miamijim

Rohloff

canklecat

For years I've used KMC Z72 chains with their Missing Link sorta-quick link on my 7 and 8 speed bikes, index and friction. No problems. KMC changed their nomenclature a couple of years ago but the same chain is still available, including under the old Z72 name on Amazon and a few other vendors.

The link shape is shaped for crisp index shifting and quiet running, but can be a bit finicky with index shifting -- it wants to be centered perfectly to minimize any running noise. But no problems with the Z72 chain on my hybrid with 8-speed bar end friction shifters.

The GPX group on my '89 Ironman includes a very nice indexed downtube shifter for the right/rear derailleur side, which *can* be used in friction mode but isn't really suited to it. For a few months I tried some proper retro shift downtube shifters and they also worked nicely with the Ironman and KMC Z72 chain, including swapping between the Suntour GPX rear derailleur and an older early Shimano 600 friction-only RD.