Dumb question about Peugeot UO-8 rear wheel setup
11-02-22, 07:00 PM
#1
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Dumb question about Peugeot UO-8 rear wheel setup
Hello,
Beginner here! I recently acquired a Peugeot UO-8 from a trash heap missing a rear wheel, and am hoping to make it functional with existing supplies. I have a Miche Excite 700c wheelset (quick-release), some spacers, and a 7 speed Shimano cassette. I mounted the wheel and cassette but only then realized that the bolt going through the rear dropouts (? unsure if correct term here.) is very short, only providing enough space to attach the frame. It does not have a derailleur hanger built in, and the one that came with the original Simplex derailleur I believe needs to be mounted on the previously-mentioned nut. Could anyone please suggest the best way to make this setup work? I'm hoping that I am misunderstanding a very simple thing. I don't have image privileges, but here is a simple illustration of the dropouts:
wwwwwwwwwwweww/ww/
wwwwwwwwe_ _ we/ ee/
eee_ _ _ _ _ | O | _/ee /
e/ eeee_ _ _ _ _ _\ww\ _ _ _ _ _ _
|eeeee /wwwwwww \ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
e\ww w\ _ _ _ _ _
ew\ _ _ _ _ _ _ __|
Thank you!
Beginner here! I recently acquired a Peugeot UO-8 from a trash heap missing a rear wheel, and am hoping to make it functional with existing supplies. I have a Miche Excite 700c wheelset (quick-release), some spacers, and a 7 speed Shimano cassette. I mounted the wheel and cassette but only then realized that the bolt going through the rear dropouts (? unsure if correct term here.) is very short, only providing enough space to attach the frame. It does not have a derailleur hanger built in, and the one that came with the original Simplex derailleur I believe needs to be mounted on the previously-mentioned nut. Could anyone please suggest the best way to make this setup work? I'm hoping that I am misunderstanding a very simple thing. I don't have image privileges, but here is a simple illustration of the dropouts:
wwwwwwwwwwweww/ww/
wwwwwwwwe_ _ we/ ee/
eee_ _ _ _ _ | O | _/ee /
e/ eeee_ _ _ _ _ _\ww\ _ _ _ _ _ _
|eeeee /wwwwwww \ _ _ _ _ _ _ _ _
e\ww w\ _ _ _ _ _
ew\ _ _ _ _ _ _ __|
Thank you!
Last edited by yonex96; 11-02-22 at 07:09 PM.
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11-02-22, 08:10 PM
#2
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Hey... Nice illustration!!!
UO8 - Great bike.
You will also need some Long Reach brakes to use your 700c wheel set. Youtube: "How To Do 27 Inch To 700c Wheel Conversion - Vintage Bike Update"
For your derailleur get a Sunrace derailleur hanger or use a Claw Derailleur. https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Bicyc.../dp/B01N000V9A
UO8 - Great bike.
You will also need some Long Reach brakes to use your 700c wheel set. Youtube: "How To Do 27 Inch To 700c Wheel Conversion - Vintage Bike Update"
For your derailleur get a Sunrace derailleur hanger or use a Claw Derailleur. https://www.amazon.com/SunRace-Bicyc.../dp/B01N000V9A
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No matter where you're at... There you are... Δf:=f(1/2)-f(-1/2)Last edited by zandoval; 11-02-22 at 08:17 PM.
11-02-22, 08:29 PM
#3
feros ferio
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My UO-8 also uses a claw, as does yours, but it's hard to see in this photo, hence inclusion of the picture of my Carlton, showing a SunTour VGT claw-mounted.
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"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
"Far and away the best prize that life offers is the chance to work hard at work worth doing." --Theodore Roosevelt
Capo: 1959 Modell Campagnolo, S/N 40324; 1960 Sieger (2), S/N 42624, 42597
Carlton: 1962 Franco Suisse, S/N K7911
Peugeot: 1970 UO-8, S/N 0010468
Bianchi: 1982 Campione d'Italia, S/N 1.M9914
Schwinn: 1988 Project KOM-10, S/N F804069
11-02-22, 08:45 PM
#4
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If you have a Cottered Crank and you are going to upgrade to a Square Tapper Crank you will need a "5" Spindle. Best would be a "5SB" if you can find one.
https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
https://sheldonbrown.com/bbsize.html
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11-02-22, 09:37 PM
#5
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Sheldon has all the answers. You'll want to read his article on o.l.d.:
https://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-spacing.html
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11-03-22, 05:11 AM
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Hello,
Beginner here! I recently acquired a Peugeot UO-8 from a trash heap missing a rear wheel, and am hoping to make it functional with existing supplies. I have a Miche Excite 700c wheelset (quick-release), some spacers, and a 7 speed Shimano cassette. I mounted the wheel and cassette but only then realized that the bolt going through the rear dropouts (? unsure if correct term here.) is very short, only providing enough space to attach the frame. It does not have a derailleur hanger built in, and the one that came with the original Simplex derailleur I believe needs to be mounted on the previously-mentioned nut. Could anyone please suggest the best way to make this setup work?
Beginner here! I recently acquired a Peugeot UO-8 from a trash heap missing a rear wheel, and am hoping to make it functional with existing supplies. I have a Miche Excite 700c wheelset (quick-release), some spacers, and a 7 speed Shimano cassette. I mounted the wheel and cassette but only then realized that the bolt going through the rear dropouts (? unsure if correct term here.) is very short, only providing enough space to attach the frame. It does not have a derailleur hanger built in, and the one that came with the original Simplex derailleur I believe needs to be mounted on the previously-mentioned nut. Could anyone please suggest the best way to make this setup work?
The claw has two things that fix it on the dropout - the little screw and nut that go in the back of the dropout slot, and the axle that (normally) protrudes through the dropout slot AND the claw slot, and further into whatever axle-fixing arrangement the wheel has: nut or qr.
Your problem sounds as though the end of the qr axle proud on the locknut is not long enough to extend through the dropout and into the claw slot. If that is the case, you may be able to adjust the position of the axle so that you get enough on that side, by moving both sets of cones and spacers. Then the little screw&nut is supposed to keep it in place when you undo the qr, just as with a nut.
You may have an issue you would need to contemplate first: almost surely the bike has a rear end spacing narrower than that rear wheel. That frame can easily be spread to fit if so, which gives you a bit of extra length-of-axle to play with.
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11-03-22, 06:16 AM
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11-03-22, 07:25 AM
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Also important to note that a QR axle can't go *all* the way through the dropout (or the dropout/claw combination) otherwise it would impede closing the QR skewer. So if you are used to nutted axles that protrude well beyond the edges of the dropouts it can look a little weird at first. There does need to be enough of the axle stub inside the dropout to support the wheel: the axle should come out just about but not quite flush with the side of the dropout or the claw.
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