look what i bought today!
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look what i bought today!
Got it for $20. I liked it, so I bought it! Im not sure what my plans are, Im thinking something with one speed, If ya catch my drift.
Sorry for the crappy pics.. Let me know what you guys think!
Sorry for the crappy pics.. Let me know what you guys think!
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Sorry, but that is a crappy bike..
#5
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I might give a dollar for the rack if I needed it...
#7
Death fork? Naaaah!!
I think that bike would be just the ticket to connect the range to the water heater.
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You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
You know it's going to be a good day when the stem and seatpost come right out.
(looking for a picture and not seeing it? Thank the Photobucket fiasco.PM me and I'll link it up.)
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Just so this thread is somewhat useful, if you are looking for a decent quality older bike, some tips:
If a bike has:
-One piece bent steel cranks
-Steel rims
-Steel stem
-Foam tubes instead of bar tape on a road bike
-nutted hubs (no quick releases)
-frame construction that looks like that... hard to describe, but if the rear dropouts look like they were inserted into the seat and frame stays and then pinched tight
...then the bike is probably junk.
There are exceptions to some of these rules, usually if the bike is REALLY old. You can tell steel parts because they'll usually have speckles of reddish rust. Old aluminum parts will get greyish-blackish oxidation, but no reddish oxidation.
If a bike has:
-One piece bent steel cranks
-Steel rims
-Steel stem
-Foam tubes instead of bar tape on a road bike
-nutted hubs (no quick releases)
-frame construction that looks like that... hard to describe, but if the rear dropouts look like they were inserted into the seat and frame stays and then pinched tight
...then the bike is probably junk.
There are exceptions to some of these rules, usually if the bike is REALLY old. You can tell steel parts because they'll usually have speckles of reddish rust. Old aluminum parts will get greyish-blackish oxidation, but no reddish oxidation.
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Originally Posted by F.T.W
well ****. that sucks lol. oh well it was only $20.
Trust me, you can do WAY better than THAT for $20!
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hmm well, anyone wanna buy it? I guess thats what I get for trying to buy a bike, and not knowing what I was doing. Oh well, it was only $20.
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If it fits, use it as your beater. Of course, you'd probably need a new fork, which means more cash outlay. Maybe you can strip it and sell the parts, get your $20 back, and put that toward a better bike...
#14
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$20 = tuition
The rack is OK...I have one like it on my commuter. What kind of saddle is that? Is it leather?
Looks like there's alot of rust. Parting it out might be hard.
The rack is OK...I have one like it on my commuter. What kind of saddle is that? Is it leather?
Looks like there's alot of rust. Parting it out might be hard.
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May you live long, live strong, and live happy!
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keep the bike prominently displayed in your shed to remind you to never buy on impulse again ! lol
#16
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Nice thing about a bent fork is that it can be made like new with the proper tools. I just straightened out an old steel Torelli cross bike fork. Took a friend with the right tools about 15 min. Don
#17
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Originally Posted by Deanster04
Nice thing about a bent fork is that it can be made like new with the proper tools. I just straightened out an old steel Torelli cross bike fork. Took a friend with the right tools about 15 min. Don
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Originally Posted by F.T.W
well ****. that sucks lol. oh well it was only $20.
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Originally Posted by robo
Just so this thread is somewhat useful, if you are looking for a decent quality older bike, some tips:
If a bike has:
-One piece bent steel cranks
-Steel rims
-Steel stem
-Foam tubes instead of bar tape on a road bike
-nutted hubs (no quick releases)
-frame construction that looks like that... hard to describe, but if the rear dropouts look like they were inserted into the seat and frame stays and then pinched tight
...then the bike is probably junk.
There are exceptions to some of these rules, usually if the bike is REALLY old. You can tell steel parts because they'll usually have speckles of reddish rust. Old aluminum parts will get greyish-blackish oxidation, but no reddish oxidation.
If a bike has:
-One piece bent steel cranks
-Steel rims
-Steel stem
-Foam tubes instead of bar tape on a road bike
-nutted hubs (no quick releases)
-frame construction that looks like that... hard to describe, but if the rear dropouts look like they were inserted into the seat and frame stays and then pinched tight
...then the bike is probably junk.
There are exceptions to some of these rules, usually if the bike is REALLY old. You can tell steel parts because they'll usually have speckles of reddish rust. Old aluminum parts will get greyish-blackish oxidation, but no reddish oxidation.
I bought a Raleigh Olympian with foam pads. And my Nishiki Continental had foam until I wrapped in with one piece leather a few years ago.
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I hate foam pads, they are super uncomfortable. I guess Ill see what I can do. I was planning on a fixie/SS build.... Who knows, like I was telling the fixed gear guys, my mom has an old nishiki I may be albe to talk her out of, and there is also a sweet old schwinn at a local pawn shop.
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Hammer out the fork, take it apart, clean it up and paint it like this...
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May you live long, live strong, and live happy!
May you live long, live strong, and live happy!
#23
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Clean it up, you can get your $20 back? Maybe even $30. It's a Columbia, so not junk. It's just not super light with the best of everything like the guys here are spoiled with. It would make someone mobile
for several years. To get somewhere, you just need some wheels and chain, you don't have to bling and blang the whole way, lol.,,,,BD
for several years. To get somewhere, you just need some wheels and chain, you don't have to bling and blang the whole way, lol.,,,,BD
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So many bikes, so little dime.
So many bikes, so little dime.