Sammyboy

Ok, I did a thorough search, and just to cover off all the bases:

I have a stuck pedal, Campy pedals, Campy cranks. I've tried penetrating oil, impact, yes I'm using a pedal wrench, yes I know that the left hand pedal is left hand threaded. Today, I tried a propane torch on it, and had a little success. I let it sit for a couple of minutes, heating, then I found I was able to turn the pedal about 1/2 a turn, before it stuck again. I tried heating it some more, but no luck. What I'm wondering is this. I know that the aluminium heats faster than the steel, but at some point, the steel is going to catch up, and of course, once you stop heating the ali will cool faster than the steel, presumably restoring or even increasing the bond. Is there a way to determine the optimum time to free a pedal?

Bob Dopolina 

Can't directly aswer your question (an interesting one) but might I suggest that once you get things good and hot you quick drench the whole mess in cold water. This may held break the pedal free.

Is it both pedals or just one?

Sammyboy

It's just one. Won't a drench cool the aluminium faster? I'd have thought it would be counter-productive, but I can't think of anything to be lost trying it! I cannot ride on the quill pedals currently in place, so something must be done.....

Sammyboy

Bah. I heated it til it the crank discoloured, I doused it, nothing. I am frustrated.

Bob Dopolina 

Wow. That's puppy's stuck. Someone out there must have a chemical solution. Good luck.

dafydd

i've never tried the boiling water trick, but generally when the propane torch doesn't help, you can expect buggered threads when it the pedal comes out.

AndrewP

Ammonia is the release agent for stuck al-steel. Boiling water should provide enough heat, as al expands on heating much more than steel. Get a friend to pour boiling water over the end of the crank while you lean on the pedal wrench (put a pipe over the wrench to get more leverage).

niknak

Never met a stuck pedal I couldn't free with a cheater bar on the pedal wrench. Get a strong friend to apply force to the other crank arm as you pull.

HDFACTORYCERTIF

The chemical solution I have is actually very natural. I learned this many years ago. Carefully heat the aluminum crank, then touch the threaded area with bees Wax.
Why Bees Wax? Bees Wax has a much higher flash point then any penetrating oil. It also will kill locktite and rust.
If this fails, then the pedal shaft needs to be heated to a dull red with a small brazing tip on an acetaline torch, then touch the Wax to it, of course this will trash the pedal axle but may save the crank.

Don

vsyucla

Try PB Blaster. Just use a liberal amount and let it soak.

If that doesn't work, then use an extension to the pedal wrench. To get the max torque you need to extend the length of the pedal wrench. The longer you extend the wrench, the more torque is applied to the bolt/nut. To do this, find a hollow metal tube that will fit over the pedal wrench. A good 2 foot metal tube should be more than enough. You can find this at a home depot.

You can also try heating will using the extension bar.

McDave

Listen to this man people. He's not your average "bike" mechanic and knows his stuff where metal is concerned.

Sammy, once you get the axle to un-screw a bit you need to reverse direction and tighten it back up. This allows the penetrant, whether PB Blaster or LPS or Bees Wax to work into the threads. Just continue working it back and forth putting a bit more pressure on the wrench on the un-screw stroke. It will eventually come out but I'm afraid one stuck this bad will probably have some aluminum crank threads come out with it.

tellyho

Whenever you get it off, you're going to need a new crank - Al is not fond of being heated like that.

nick burns

You may want to try working with the crank off the bike. A cheater bar and the floor can sometimes convince a stuck pedal that it's time to come off.

Sammyboy

If I need a new crank, I might as well give up on the job and just buy a new crank!