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QR Lever Position

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Old 05-09-21, 06:46 AM
  #26  
bruce19
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
I always point them straight back mainly because they need to be somewhere and that is probably as good as any. Pointing back does reduce the chance of them hooking something when walking the bike.
The TT crowd says this is also more aero.
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Old 05-09-21, 07:39 AM
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I’d also add that generally you get about the right closed tension if you adjust the QR nut so that you are just feeling the onset of some tension when the lever is about straight out. Obviously it will vary, but that is a reasonable starting point.

Otto
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Old 05-09-21, 07:42 AM
  #28  
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FWIW, the illustration is NOT showing a QR on the drive side.

That said, it makes zero difference which side you run the QR lever in most cases. And it makes perfect sense to run the QR on the drive side if you have discs for the simple reason that you are less likely to get your dirty little fingers on the rotor when opening and closing the lever.
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Old 05-09-21, 07:44 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by bruce19
The TT crowd says this is also more aero.
This really ought to settle the thread.
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Old 05-09-21, 07:51 AM
  #30  
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Which side and which direction should be quick release lever go?

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Old 05-09-21, 08:09 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Eric F
Rule #41.
You do know that posting this will eliminate hundreds of pages of BF threads... lol!

John
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Old 05-09-21, 09:14 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by taylorgeo
Should the QR lever be in front of the fork or behind?


I tuck the QR lever behind the left fork leg front, and between the seat- and chainstay on the rear. Clean look and levers out of the way. I mounted my QR on the left on my disc-equipped MTB, but I ensured that there were no clearance issues. If there were, I’d have no hesitation mounting the QR on the right, tradition be damned
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Old 05-09-21, 09:35 AM
  #33  
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The skewer should go in front of the fork. The lever can move further inboard so it is tighter. The fork leg also can get in the way if the lever is angled across the leg. These two picture illustrate the problem nicely. On the suspension fork, the lever can’t be closed in any position except vertical.





The idea that the lever is going to catch on something and open is a very old myth. In 40 years of riding (and 35 years of mountain biking) I’ve never caught anything on a quick release skewer. The chances of opening one through some kind of impact is infinitesimal small.
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Old 05-09-21, 10:17 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Kapusta
This really ought to settle the thread.
I do my best to help.
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Old 05-09-21, 10:25 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
The skewer should go in front of the fork. The lever can move further inboard so it is tighter. The fork leg also can get in the way if the lever is angled across the leg. These two picture illustrate the problem nicely. ...


The idea that the lever is going to catch on something and open is a very old myth. In 40 years of riding (and 35 years of mountain biking) I’ve never caught anything on a quick release skewer. The chances of opening one through some kind of impact is infinitesimal small.
On all my bikes, I can rotate that lever about 30 degrees back so the tip is between the fender stays and the fork. With modern curved levers, I can see daylight between the fork and lever with the leer pushed to its stop.

My levers include early '00s Campy, slightly newer Ultegra and 105, cheap steel Shimano and QBP. All forks are traditional tapered steel, 531, Japanese Hi Ten and the like.

A thought I had looking at your vertical lever - what a temptation for kids! Mine would not even be noticed and the smaller ones would not be able to sum up the strength to open it with the fewer fingers that fit.
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Old 05-09-21, 12:23 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by ofajen
I’d also add that generally you get about the right closed tension if you adjust the QR nut so that you are just feeling the onset of some tension when the lever is about straight out. Obviously it will vary, but that is a reasonable starting point.

Otto
Does not apply to all OEM axle types. An aftermarket option can often change how the process goes, but that usually requires a hex head tool to preset the tension.
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Old 05-09-21, 12:24 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by dabac
I’ve witnessed a crash where the q/r lever had gotten loose, tilted inwards and snagged the rotor. It wasn’t pretty.
Newer closed cam skewers - at least Shimano - have been changed not to go past 90 deg angle to prevent this. Took me awhile to readjust the visual cue to how it should look.
While I do appreciate the actual braking from discs, there are some fundamental flaws in the engineering that frankly makes me embarrassed.
I don't think I've ever seen a qr skewer that could possibly interfere with a rotor. I just can't envision this. Did the lever come loose and turn over (rotate) 180 degrees?
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Old 05-09-21, 12:25 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
The skewer should go in front of the fork. The lever can move further inboard so it is tighter. The fork leg also can get in the way if the lever is angled across the leg. These two picture illustrate the problem nicely. On the suspension fork, the lever can’t be closed in any position except vertical.

The idea that the lever is going to catch on something and open is a very old myth. In 40 years of riding (and 35 years of mountain biking) I’ve never caught anything on a quick release skewer. The chances of opening one through some kind of impact is infinitesimal small.
If those are your qr skewers, I applaud your taste.
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Old 05-09-21, 12:31 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
I don't think I've ever seen a qr skewer that could possibly interfere with a rotor. I just can't envision this. Did the lever come loose and turn over (rotate) 180 degrees?
Don’t think we ever thought about that at that moment. A flipped lever would arc outwards, making it less likely to snag the rotor.
But the mechanics were all there.
Once the q/r got loose enough, the lever did have enough range of motion to interfere with the rotor.
As If the wrinkled up rotor and tore up dropout would have left much doubt about how the event unfolded.

Read here for more:https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2015/th...s-to-replace-0
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Old 05-09-21, 12:36 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by dabac
Don’t think we ever thought about that at that moment. A flipped lever would arc outwards, making it less likely to snag the rotor.
But the mechanics were all there.
Once the q/r got loose enough, the lever did have enough range of motion to interfere with the rotor.
As If the wrinkled up rotor and tore up dropout would have left much doubt about how the event unfolded.

Read here for more:https://www.cpsc.gov/Recalls/2015/th...s-to-replace-0
Yikes. I'm gonna check my skewers now. This is partly why I only use Shimano closed-cam skewers - seems like they are less likely to have any problems.
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Old 05-09-21, 12:46 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
Yikes. I'm gonna check my skewers now. This is partly why I only use Shimano closed-cam skewers - seems like they are less likely to have any problems.
I wouldn’t count on that. Look at the brands of bikes. Felt, Specialized, etc. Odds are good there were some Shimano q/r in there. But Shimano q/r made AFTER that date should be good, they’re different. I’ll see if I can scrounge up a pair for comparison.
Edit:


Old vs current Shimano q/r
Top/left is an older Shimano q/r. Low/right is the recent design. Note how much lower the old lever dips.
Both levers in good, original condition.

Last edited by dabac; 05-09-21 at 01:16 PM.
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Old 05-09-21, 01:10 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by AdkMtnMonster
Uh... what? You must have some seriously long toes to be able to reach the hub. And if your foot comes off the pedal that far/forcefully, I don't think worrying about kicking the front QR is in the Top 5 Things You Should Be Worrying About Mid-Crash.

Depending on the fork and the QR lever's shape, like was stated by Johnny HardKore, it depends. Just don't kick it.
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Old 05-09-21, 03:36 PM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Koyote
If those are your qr skewers, I applaud your taste.
Yup. Mine. Other than Campy, they are the only ones to own.
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Old 05-09-21, 04:18 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by wolfchild
I predict 30 pages
Does that include after a newbie resurrects it after it’s been dormant for 5 years?
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Old 05-09-21, 05:16 PM
  #45  
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Okay, QR levers, fine. But what we really need to discuss is which way the Brilando clips are supposed to point...
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Old 05-09-21, 05:49 PM
  #46  
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Originally Posted by Pop N Wood
I always point them straight back mainly because they need to be somewhere and that is probably as good as any. Pointing back does reduce the chance of them hooking something when walking the bike.
This is probably the most logical post here. Especially true for mountain bike anyway, that can hook strong weeds etc, if in the forward arc.
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Old 05-10-21, 06:07 AM
  #47  
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Rule #41// Quick-release levers are to be carefully positioned. Quick release angle on the front skewer shall be an upward angle which tightens just aft of the fork and the rear quick release shall tighten at an angle that bisects angle between the seat and chain stays. It is acceptable, however, to have the rear quick release tighten upward, just aft of the seat stay, when the construction of the frame or its dropouts will not allow the preferred positioning. For Time Trial bikes only, quick releases may be in the horizontal position facing towards the rear of the bike. This is for maximum aero effect.
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Old 05-10-21, 06:52 AM
  #48  
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Originally Posted by Gresp15C
Okay, QR levers, fine. But what we really need to discuss is which way the Brilando clips are supposed to point...
I’m not sure if the discussion of these is for real or not but since the thread has yet to reach three pages, comments are required . I did not know that they were called “Brilando clips” but mostly heard them referred to as “lawyer clips”. The former certainly has a more positive sound to it. I have more than a few bikes and the only ones with the “Brilando clips” are the Schwinns. I understand that Mr Brilando was a Schwinn engineer and responsible for the design. Was the intent to be proprietary and only exist on Schwinn bikes? I get the general impression that many bicycle enthusiasts think little of these clips and remove them. Personally, I agree with those that believe them to be a superfluous safety device. I will say though, that I’ve left them on all of my Schwinn bikes. If I acquire a Schwinn where a previous owner had removed them, I’m pretty sure I wouldn’t seek out replacements. RE: the question as how the clips should be oriented, I put the front wheel in the fork so the clips are as pictured in the photo.
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Old 05-10-21, 11:02 AM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Kapusta
Either way is fine.

Of course, that will not prevent this thread from hitting 3 pages.
You called it!! Still surprised me!
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Old 05-10-21, 12:08 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by cyccommute
The skewer should go in front of the fork. The lever can move further inboard so it is tighter. The fork leg also can get in the way if the lever is angled across the leg. These two picture illustrate the problem nicely. On the suspension fork, the lever can’t be closed in any position except vertical.





The idea that the lever is going to catch on something and open is a very old myth. In 40 years of riding (and 35 years of mountain biking) I’ve never caught anything on a quick release skewer. The chances of opening one through some kind of impact is infinitesimal small.
Hmm in 26 years of mountain biking I caught my front QR on vines once and it opened quickly, causing a nasty crash. You know what they say- "fool me once.."
One a MTB I face both QR levers (on my now-ancient 26er and 29er) backwards.
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